THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

NOTES

PRIVATE JOURNAL

OP A

VISIT TO EGYPT AND PALESTINE,

BY WAY OP

ITALY AND THE MEDITERRANEAN.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON :
PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO.,

CIRCUS PLACE, LONDON WALL.

1885.

TO THE
BELOVED COMPANION OF HER JOURNEY,

HER AFFECTIONATE ASSOCIATE IN LIFE,

THE WRITER DEDICATES

JFamt i&ecorfc of a

WITH FEELINGS OF

UNBOUNDED GRATITUDE TO THE OMNIPOTENT,

FOB HAVING GUIDED THEM IN SAFETY*

THROUGH MANY DIFFICULT AND EVENTFUL UNDERTAKINGS.

THE RECOLLECTION OF WHICH MUST EVER EXCITE

RENEWED THANKFULNESS AND DEVOTION.

NOTES FROM\ JOUENAL

A CONSIDERABLE period has now elapsed since we
made our last tour in Egypt and Palestine. During
this interval we have experienced the most signal
proofs of the Divine protection and bounty, and
trusting to the same mercy, in which we have
ever endeavoured to place our hope and confi-
dence, we once more turn our eyes to the land
of our fathers, to the place of their sojourning,
and to the inheritance of the promises.

Thursday, November 1, 1838. — The preliminary
arrangements having been completed, we took
our leave of the many dear friends, whose ardent
wishes for our welfare, meeting the feelings natu-
ral to those who are about to enter upon a long,
and perhaps dangerous journey, gave to the
moment of departure a sentiment of mingled
pain and pleasure. We started at two o'clock
attended by Armstrong, our former courier, whose
services we engaged, encouraged, by his previous

B

2 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

assiduity and ability, to expect his continued
usefulness.

Having reached Park Lane, it was no slight

comfort to see that ouilfcdear brother B was

sufficiently in spirits to leave his bed, after a long
night of suffering. May Heaven restore him to
perfect health and strength, and give him many
years of happiness in the bosom of his affectionate
family. No circumstance is more painful at the
commencement of a long journey than the neces-
sity of saying farewell to a friend bowed down
with sickness, or any other species of affliction.

Our travelling-carriage and female servant
were awaiting us, and having partaken of an ex-
cellent luncheon with some of our dear friends
who had assembled to witness our departure,
we took our leave, and proceeded to Vauxhall,
where the maternal and sisterly greetings of Mrs.

Montefiore and Mrs. S attended us. Our

adieus were mingled with prayers for a happy
re-union; and thus, as must ever be the case in
this passing scene, the sentiment which most
powerfully excited our feelings at the present,
naturally carried us forward, and connected itself
with the future.

We find our old re-embellished travelling-car-
riage replenished with whatever tends to comfort
and enjoyment, and extremely easy and spacious.

RAMSGATE. 3

The heavy state of the roads made us determine
to pass the night at Sittingbourne. A clear, bright
moon rendered the last two stages very agreeable,
and at ten o'clock the good-tempered-looking
host and hostess, at the George Hotel, welcomed
our arrival. Tea and eggs furnish our repast, and
we intend retiring early. Armstrong is, as before ,
thoughtful of what we may require, and Ann,
our maid, appears extremely good-tempered.
What have we more to wish for, but that the
Almighty may accept our thanks, and answer
our prayers, as well for the happiness of our
friends as our own safety ?

Friday, November 2. Ramsgate. — Left Sitting-
bourne at ten. A delightful morning. We met
many persons travelling post for London ; and so
in life as in a journey, the various pursuits
of individuals incline to different roads; and
while some are but setting out, others are
hastening to the close and resting-place of
their course.

We reached Ramsgate at two o'clock, and pro-
ceeding at once to the Albion, had the comfort
to find fires in our rooms, and other proofs of the
attention of the good mistress of the hotel. The
harbour is full of shipping, but the effects of the
late storm have been magnified.

Saturday, November 3. — A boisterous evening,
B 2

4 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

wind south-west ; and thankful we are for being
safe on land. Attended synagogue, morning and

afternoon, and paid a farewell visit to Mr. H

and Mr. A , sen.

Sunday, November 4. — A dull, cold morning.
Made arrangements for the journey. Rode to
East Cliff, and spoke to Mrs. Star about the
pheasants, the present of our departed and
lamented friend, M. de Rothschild. She does not
succeed in the management of them, the numbers
having decreased from twenty-one to eight, a
grievous mortality in our feathered stock, so
much prized for the donor's sake.

November 5. Journey to Dover. — The rain con-
tinued through out the night, and has not entirely

ceased. I accompanied M this morning

to synagogue, to beseech of the Almighty, in
the house of prayer, that same protection and
mercy which He has ever bestowed upon us,
and which we again feel so necessary to the
happy accomplishment of our renewed visit to

Italy and the Holy Land. Mr. A , sen., was

present, in order to complete the ten, and join in
prayer. This was a mark of great kindness at his
age, (verging on ninety,) and with his infirmities.

With the warm expressions of many friends,
we quitted Ramsgate at a quarter past one.
Mr. M and his brother accompanied us

DOVER. O

till we reached the river which separates the
Isle of Thanet. There they bade us a reluctant
farewell ! We reached Dover at twenty minutes
before four ; and during a walk on the jetty, met

Lord K ~, who has just returned from the

Continent with his lady and children. His lord-
ship gave us no flattering account of his excursion,
but spoke much of the fatigues and annoyances
attending it, concluding with an expression of
delight at again meeting English acquaintances,
and treading on English ground. Our inten-
tion of taking a different route through Italy,
avoiding the Tyrol, consoles us.

Tuesday, November 6. — The sun is shedding
his enlivening rays with the warmth and bright-
ness of summer. This, after a fortnight's stormy
wind and rain, is most auspicious, and may be
regarded as a fresh instance of the goodness of
that God who has, through life, so largely
crowned us with his blessings.

The English government steamer being ap-
pointed to leave as early as seven, and lying off
the shore, we have resolved to take our passage

by the French boat, Estafette, Captain Y

a good sea-boat. There is not a ripple on the
water, nor could we have chosen a finer day. Our
carriage being put on board at eleven, we embarked
once again for foreign climes. Several friends

6 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

greeted us from the pier, and wafted their adieus.
The number of our fellow-passengers consisted of
only five gentlemen. We did not make way till
about twelve o'clock. When clear of the harbour
two sails were hoisted, and as the vessel cut its
path through the deep, we could not help admiring
the cleanness of the deck the brightness of the
brass appurtenances, everything vying, in short,
with the smartness and propriety of an English
ship.

Calais was reached after a passage of two
hours and forty-seven minutes. Familiar faces
soon presented themselves, and I had so entirely
escaped the usual annoyances of the passage, that
I could look, better than ever before, on the lively
and not unpicturesque scene which the entrance
to Calais offers to the eye of a stranger. We
found in the friendly conversation of our fellow-
passengers, among whom was a Comte Mesnard,
and in the prompt civility of the attendants
at Quillacq's, fresh proofs of the kindly nature
of the French.

Time seems to have vanished since our last
visit. We took a walk whilst dinner was pre-
paring, the repast consisting of some fish, and a
cold chicken brought with us. A letter from Mr.

H and one from Baron A awaited us.

The former is expected here to-morrow. We

CALAIS. 7

passed the evening most agreeably in writing
letters.

Quillacq's Hotel, November 7. Calais. — A rainy
morning makes us more sensible of the blessing of

yesterday's passage. M walked on the pier

before breakfast, and I afterwards accompanied

him to meet Mr. D , whom we expected with

the mail, at half-past eleven. Owing, however,
to the shallowness of the water in the harbour
the vessel was obliged to lie out in the bay, and
land her passengers in small boats. A shower
prevented us from remaining to receive our
friend, and we hastened to the hotel with-1
out him. Shortly after he made his appearance,
fatigued from his night's journey, but more so
from a tempestuous and anxious passage. A
warm bath and the toilette, with a good repast,
proved salutary restoratives. It was difficult to
suppress a sad recollection of the circumstances
under which we last met : but it often becomes a
duty to obliterate past sorrows in the enjoyment
of present mercies.

Our evening passed in rational and social con-
versation, plans for the journey generally min-
gling themselves with the other topics which en-
gaged our thoughts,

Thursday, November 8. — A young Greek who
arrived here two days since, showed us his

8 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

fine gold jacket, and though but eleven years old,
according to his own statement, possesses a
scimitar. He was purchased by an English gen-
tleman, just arrived from Alexandria. He looks
a sharp lad, and has already made proficiency in
Italian. No doubt he will become an important
personage in his master's household.

We left Calais at half-past eleven, and in the
course of our journey met the. Duke and Duchess

of B on their return home. The roads

were extremely muddy, and some parts of the
pavee being out of repair, no slight danger must
attend travelling in the night. We reached Cas-
sel about six o'clock, and put up at the neat*
clean Hotel d'Angleterre. Some excellent fish
was provided for our dinner, and as it was our

first day's journey, M considered it proper to

call for champagne to do honour to the health
of absent friends. The visitors' book being
presented, we were not a little amused at the
eulogiums with which it abounded.

Friday, November 9. Lille. A proper Lord
Mayor's day. — Cassel commands a fine view of
the surrounding country, but the continued rain
would not allow of my enjoying the beautiful
prospects presented on the descent of the hill.
We were en route for Lille at twenty minutes
past nine. At the entrance of the town our pass-

LILLE. 9

ports were demanded, and we proceeded to the
Hotel de 1'Europe, where we were ushered into the
spacious apartments, said to have been arranged
for George the Fourth on his visit to Hanover.

We observed the cultivation of beetroot to be
very general in this neighbourhood, and that the
number of women labouring in the fields far
exceeded, as in other parts of the Continent, that
of men. Numerous windmills give a peculiar
aspect to the environs. They are principally used
in the grinding of linseed and rapeseed for the
manufacture of oil. The town is now lighted by
the Continental Gas Company, but the rage of
competition is such, that offers are made to light
the city free of expense, for the privilege of
obtaining the private lights.

Saturday Evening, November 10. Lille. — Mr.

B called yesterday evening, and brought a

gazette, wherein were noticed the remarkable
events which had happened on preceding anni-
versaries of the day. Among the occurrences
thus considered worthy of record, was the con-
ferring of knighthood, by the Queen of England,
on Sir Moses Montefiore.

The synagogue is a pretty building, and we
found the service attended by about a dozen
gentlemen and eight ladies. During the after-
noon we walked to the gas-works, to which we

10 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

were conducted by Mr. D . The establish-
ment is extensive, and supplies a great part of
the town with light. Lille is in a flourishing
state, among the proofs of which are the appear-
ance of many new buildings, and the pavement
for foot-passengers.

Sunday, November 11. Ghent. — A rainy
morning. Left Lille at half-past nine. As the
country presented but an unvaried and unpic-
turesque continuation of cultivated land, and
the weather was dull, I amused myself with
reading ' Leila.' I admire Mr. Bulwer's de-
lineations, but not his sentiments, which give a
colouring to the character of a people tending to
support prejudices, so galling to the feelings of
those who are as sensible to honour, generosity,
and virtue, as those of more prosperous nations.
It may be policy to exaggerate faults, but is it
justice to create them solely to gratify opponents ?
It is too much the practice of authors engaged in
the production of light literature, to utter sen-
timents existing only in their own imaginations,
and by ascribing them to others, to disseminate a
baneful prejudice against multitudes, who feel
indignant at finding themselves the subjects of
unjust suspicion.

We reached this town at five o'clock, and drove
to the Hotel de la Poste, having encountered on

GHENT. 11

entering Belgium no annoyance either at the
Douane, or at the passport-office.

Monday, November 12. Hotel de la Poste.
Ghent. — The day has been cold, but fine.

November 13. Brussels. — Again fine, bat cold.
We called on Mr. D , who has an ex-
cellent house, furnished in a superior manner.
I was greatly pleased with the conservatory,
leading from the drawing-room. The collection
of camellias is numerous and choice. Several
family pictures adorn the sitting-room, among

which is that of our friend Mr. W. A ,

painted by an Italian artist. Mrs. D accom-
panied me to the Cathedral. The architecture of
the edifice is grand and imposing, and the aisles
are adorned with many pieces of fine sculptured
marble. There was a grand assemblage last Sun-
day, at the consecration of a new bishop. The
preceding prelate, a young man, died, it is said,
from the excitement attending his sudden rise
from the station of a humble parish priest to
that of Bishop of Ghent. Insanity and a pre-
mature death were the immediate consequences
of his envied elevation.

Could we have sent our carriage by the railroad,
we should have availed ourselves of that mode of
conveyance ; but, at the intercession of the post-
masters, gentlemen's carriages are are present

12 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

prohibited from travelling by them. We reached
this city at a quarter past five, and found most
agreeable and spacious apartments at the Hotel.
A brisk fire soon made us forget the coldness of
the temperature, and we enjoyed from our win-
dows the cheerful spectacle presented by the
Grande Place, well lighted with gas.

King Leopold opened the sittings of the
Chambers to-day. We shall hear the speech
to-morrow. The military band is now calling
the troops to the barracks, and as the fine
martial notes peal through the stillness of the
evening, the mind is impressed with a thousand
stirring associations.

Wednesday, November 14. Hotel de V Europe.
Brussels. — We are delighted with our apartments,
situated as they are in the Place Royale, and
commanding a side-view of the park, wanting,
moreover, neither elegancies nor comforts. The
houses in Brussels are handsome, lofty, and uni-
formly built, and being painted of a yellow white,
have a neat as well as handsome appearance.

Education keeps pace with other improvements
in Belgium. We yesterday observed several public
schools, and poor children with books in their
hands. This is the fruit of peace, but the neces-
sity of supporting a standing army still produces
no slight portion of distress and discontent.

BEUSSELS. 13

Having paid visits to some friends living
beyond the barrier, we drove round the town,
and amused ourselves with the agreeable variety
presented by the Boulevards, the botanical gar-
dens, and a new area consisting of noble houses,
and which it is intended to dignify by the title
of La Ville de Leopold.

The synagogue is an extremely neat build-
ing, and government contributes five hundred
francs annually to its support. Government also
appoints the spiritual head of the congregation
and the readers; and there is a school for the
poor, who receive various kinds of instruction,
among which music holds no insignificant place.
Sermons in German are delivered weekly by the
Rabbi. About eighty families of our persuasion
reside in Brussels, but some of them are far
from being distinguished for orthodoxy.

Thursday, November 15. — We left Brussels
about nine o'clock. A fine forest of noble elms
soon changed the hitherto monotonous scenery.
Soft hills rose in the distance, and handsome
buildings, bordered by trees, still noble, though
divested of their genial foliage, added a fresh
grace to the landscape. This was even increased
by the long lines of labourers employed in con-
structing the railroad ; the busy scene presented
by which continually reminded us of the mighty

14 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

impulse given in our age to the progress of
society.

Not a post-carriage has appeared on the road,
but heavily laden waggons, shaking the high-
way to its foundations, have amply convinced us
of the necessity of the pave*e in the centre. We
were frequently obliged to make way for their
passing, and the jerk into the deep ruts on the
road side proved a formidable trial to the
strength of our springs, which at length gave
way, in charitable consideration of innumerable
blacksmiths who surrounded the carriage at
every change of horses.

At six o'clock we reached Liege, and found
comfortable rooms at the Pavilion. Liege is
lighted with gas by a company established in
the town. I ought to have mentioned that the
Hotel de Ville at Louvain is one of the most
beautiful Gothic structures in Belgium : it has
been lately repaired, and richly deserves the
attention of the traveller.

Friday, November 16. — Left Liege for Aix-la-
Chapelle at ten o'clock. A rainy morning. On our
entering the Prussian dominions, no further
trouble was given us than that which consisted in

the mere opening of the box containing M 's

uniform. The passing of an artificial barrier,
separating one country from another, is generally

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 15

attended with emotions of surprise. A sudden
change is at once discoverable in the physiog-
nomy of the people ; and yet more striking are
the various intonations and forms of expression
which fall upon the ear of the stranger, who sees
nothing to account for the mystery, but the
simple fact that he has passed from one side
of an invisible boundary to another. Happy
surely will be the times when one religion, one
language, and one heart shall exist among the
nations of the world !

We reached Aix-la-Chapelle at half-past three,
and found excellent apartments at Le Grand Mo-
narque, having been first set down at Le Grand
Hotel, which was extremely dull. I found myself
too indisposed in the evening to appear at the
dinner table, but a few hours quiet enabled me
to join the party at tea. Aix-la-Chapelle is
lighted with gas, the works, which have been
established only a few months, exhibiting every
sign of skilful arrangement and success.

Saturday, November 17. Aix-la-Chapelle. —
M— - went to synagogue. He was greatly
pleased with the discourse delivered after the
service by the rabbi, a young man about twenty-
eight years of age, and whose address and man-
ner were both agreeable and impressive. He
spoke in German. The congregation consists of

16 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

nearly forty families. A new synagogue is being
erected, and will be finished in a few weeks. A
deputation of three gentlemen from the syna-
gogue waited upon .us, soliciting a contribution
towards the gas-fittings for that building, having
previously written on the subject. M pre-
sented them with a handsome chandelier.

In Aix-la-Chapelle, as in most places, the poor
are more numerous than the rich, but there are
few appearances of absolute destitution. French
is spoken by most persons here, and English is
becoming scarcely less general. Education is
obtained on such moderate terms that none need
remain uninstructed.

The Hotel du Grand Monarque is a very ex-
tensive establishment, making up no less than
one hundred and fifty beds, and is still being
enlarged. During the season, which continues
four months, it is said to be completely full.

Sunday, November 18. Aix-la-Chapelle. — A
continuance of rain prevents our walking.

We visited the baths. Some are very hand-
some, being ornamented with various coloured
marbles. The hot springs, which are chiefly sul-
phurous, are said to prove extremely efficacious
in cutaneous, rheumatic, and paralytic affections.

Our carriage has undergone a complete repair
after the injuries which it suffered from the pave-

COLOGNE. 17

ment and rugged roads. Armstrong thinks the
charge of seventy-one francs very moderate. We
are debating whether to take the way to Lyons
by Strasbourg, or to retrace our steps to Belgium,
and thence proceed to Paris. Maps, books, and
opinions have all been severally consulted, and
at length we have decided upon proceeding to
Strasbourg.

I dislike the stoves which are used here. The
fire is almost obscured from view, and the coal
emits an unpleasant odour. The shops have
been kept open during a great part of the day,
a circumstance which would have surprised me,
the country being Protestant, but for the large
proportion of Koman Catholic inhabitants.

Monday, November 19. Cologne. — At twenty
minutes past ten we quitted Aix-la-Chapelle.
The rain did not cease during the journey. We
entered the post-house at Bergheim, and found
music and singing, but no resting place for the
traveller. On being directed, however, to the
Hotel opposite, we were shown into warm, clean
rooms, and partook of some excellent refresh-
ment. The master, a very polite person, exhi-
bited the honours he had received at Waterloo,
and said that many English families had remained
at his house. Among them were the Duchess of
Gloucester and Lord Londonderry.

18 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

From Bergheim the state of the roads began to
improve, having undergone, as our host described
it, some palliatives, — improvements effected by a
little band of labourers engaged for the purpose.

We arrived at the KaiserlicheHoff at a quarter
past six, and had tea and fried haddock, with ex-
cellent potatoes. The house is extremely com-
fortable ; but experience recommends a choice of
apartments in which the sitting-room and cham-
ber are adjoining. It is our intention to go to-
morrow to Coblentz by the steam-boat, which
starts at seven in the morning, and will teach us
our first lesson in early rising. The time of year
is not the most auspicious for this reform, but
we shall probably gain in health what we lose in
indulgence.

Tuesday, November 20. — Called at five. Mr.

and Mrs. D would not suffer us to depart

without joining our breakfast- table. We reached
the boat in excellent time, and found it a spacious
•vessel, comfortably and handsomely fitted up. It
belongs to the Cologne Company ; the captain
speaks English, and the accommodations reach
almost to luxury. There were from fifteen to
twenty passengers, ladies and gentlemen. Some
were landed at different villages on the Rhine.
As the day was cold, we amused ourselves with
writing ; but the pavilion seeming damp, we re-

COBLENTZ. 19

paired to the cabin, invitingly warm and elegant.
The passengers' dinner consisted of a great variety
of dishes, and was what we should term in
English, luxurious.

Though wanting its summer tints, the majestic
scenery of the Rhine presents objects of surpass-
ing grandeur. What they lose of beauty under
the winter sky, they gain in that stern and solemn
sublimity, which affects the imagination even
more forcibly than the brighter glories of a softer
season.

The passage surpassed our expectation. We
reached Coblentz by five o'clock, and took up our
abode for the night at the Hotel de Belle Vue.

November 21. Hotel Belle Vue. Coblentz.—
Arose at half -past five. Thermometer in the car-
riage 31^. Took coffee, and were on board the
steam-boat again at seven. All our yesterday
fellow passengers had left. To-day there are but
two gentlemen and a lady, besides ourselves, in
the cabin. A good fire is kept up, so that it is
exceedingly comfortable, and our pleasurable
sensations are increased by an excellent break-
fast of chocolate.

The scenery as we advanced became more and

more imposing : stupendous rocks, covered with

vines and shrubs, overhanging the stream, and

throwing their dark masses of shade along its

C 2

20 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

rapid waters, inspiring a feeling of awe as well
as admiration.

We reached Mayence after a very comfortable
passage, at four o'clock, and went to the Rhenish
Hotel. The streets of this town seem badly
paved and dirty ; but it contains some well-built
houses, and may in summer present a neater and
gayer aspect. There is a fine quay, and the town
generally affords great facilities for commerce. I
observed several vessels laden with corn, sacks
of feathers, and other articles of traffic.

Thursday, November 22. Mayence. — As the
boat for Mannheim does not leave till eight, we
have not been so hurried this morning, though
still obliged to rise by candle-light. We are now
on board the Stockholm, not quite so large a boat
as the Leopold, but equally comfortable, and well
fitted up. There is no fatigue in this mode of
travelling, and the banks of the Rhine continue
to present, with their numerous villages, castles,
and bridges, objects of perpetual interest. We
are now passing the pretty town of Nuremberg,
where the superior wine of that name is made,
the scenery being varied at this spot by several
hills and a flying bridge.

The sky is dull and gloomy : not a gleam of
sun ; and there is a strange and romantic feeling
inspired by the sound of the bell, as it swings to

MAYENCE. 21

and fro, to warn the boats or villagers of our
approach.

My German has obtained a compliment from
the waiter, who says that I speak it like a native.
At least the little I know is found useful.

We have passed the town of Worms. The view
of its fine old towers, seen well from the river,
reminded us of our friends of that name in Lon-
don. At half-past four the boat reached Mann-
heim. The long avenues of trees and pretty
buildings, together with the account given us by
persons on board of its well-paved streets and
agreeable walks, might well have enticed us to
enter ; but the favourable change of the atmo-
sphere, and our desire to arrive in good time to-
morrow at Strasbourg, have determined us to
pursue our route.

Armstrong having hastened to order post-horses,
in the course of half-an-hour we took leave of the
Boat Stadt Coblentz, and were again seated in the
carriage. Beautiful and almost startling, was the
contrast of the spectacle which the sky presented
to what it had offered a few hours before. Then
a mass of gloomy fog had involved everything in
its folds : now the young moon was shedding on
all sides its benignant rays, and in a short time
the whole immense canopy of heaven appeared
studded with countless stars. The brilliancy of

22 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

this glorious scene would not allow us to com-
mence preparations for the night so early as we
had intended. We reached Speyer in good time,
and less fatigued than might have been expected
from the appearance of the poor post-horses. We
began to find, in the latter part of this journey,
the advantage of our travelling-bed.

Friday, November 23. Strasbourg. — Thanks to
the Almighty ! we arrived here in safety after a
night's journey ; somewhat weary, it is true, but
greatly gratified at the nice appearance of the
Hotel de Paris, and the very handsome suite of
apartments ready for our reception. At one o'clock
we were partaking of a breakfast of excellent tea,
rolls, and boiled trout. Our servants had borne
the nocturnal trip with their usual good temper.
We engaged a valet-de-place to accompany us
round the town. He also conducted us to the
synagogue, not very distant from the hotel,
and which we found to be a very respectable
building, well-lighted, and attended by a nume-
rous congregation a portion of which was formed
of ladies. There is a choir of boys dressed in
costume similar to that worn by the choristers at
Bordeaux. The chief rabbi and reader are ap-
pointed and paid by the government. It is only
two years since the building was finished, and
is the freehold property of the community.

STRASBOURG. 23

Saturday Evening, November 24. Strasbourg. —
Grateful for having passed a most satisfactory
day. The valet-de-place was in readiness at
eight o'clock to escort us to synagogue, where
we found a yet more numerous congregation than

on the preceding evening. M was called to

the reading of the law, and made an offering.
The chief rabbi read the prayer for the King and
Royal Family. We were much impressed with
the beauty of the chanting, but it seemed to me
that the prayers were abridged, a consequence,
perhaps, of the reforms of the age. At twelve we
walked to see the cathedral, a building of great
antiquity, and of exceedingly handsome architec-
ture. Its tower is of immense height, and exqui-
site in style and proportions. Both this, and the
curious clock, which formed one of the marvels
of the edifice, were some time since much injured
by lightning. Repairs are in progress, which it
will require two years more to complete. The
stained glass in this cathedral is the richest I
have seen.

We next visited the church of St. Thomas, an
ancient Protestant structure, and where we saw
the beautiful marble monument erected by Louis
XV. to the memory of Marshal Saxe, who died
at the age of fifty-five, in 1777. There is another
curious object in this church. It is the ingeni-

24 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

otisly sculptured tomb of a Count of Nassau, and
which was discovered by the workmen engaged in
repairing the church. The embalmed bodies of
the count and his daughter, which formerly re-
posed in this costly resting place, are now to be
seen in an adjoining chapel, inclosed in glass
coffins, and habited in the costume of the eleventh
century. As we were contemplating here the
nothingness of life, and this vanity of death, the
tones of the organ, which the man had just come
to tune, suddenly broke upon our ears, and helped
to raise our thoughts above the gloom of mere
mortality.

Our next visit was to the arsenal. The number
of brass cannon, bombs, and mortars appeared
to me sufficient to destroy all Europe.

The guide now presented himself : an old sol-
dier, with a somewhat Austrian countenance, who
had served in all Napoleon's campaigns, and in
his own battalion, when engaged in Egypt, Italy,
&c. He unlocked the armoury, where spears,
muskets, pistols, cuirasses, were arranged so
as to form various devices, and covering in
sparkling array the walls and ceilings of two
immense rooms. At the end of the second was a
bust of Louis Philippe, the features of which were
now lit up by the sun's rays, which aided, in no
slight degreej the effect of the decorations, the

COLMAR. 25

ancient armour, and other splendid memorials of
war that surrounded the marble.

The hour of dinner had arrived, and the streets
being mostly paved with asphalte, easy to the
feet, we walked through the promenade to the
hotel, and thence to the restaurateur.

Sunday, November 25. — Left Strasbourg at
eleven o'clock. The greater part of the shops
were closed, half the population being Protestant.
Having passed the strong fortifications, and the
bridge over the river Ille, an excellent raised road
conducted us across an expensive plain, and by the
aid of good horses and careful postillions, we pur-
sued our journey with ease and rapidity. A
brilliant sun cheered us on our way. As we ap-
proached the department of the Upper Rhine,
stupendous mountains began to appear, and con-
tinued on our right till we reached Colmar, the
place of destination for the night. Ruins of
castles crowned the summits of most of the hills,
and innumerable villages sloped down to their
base : snow had fallen a few weeks since, and
some of it still remained to vary the colouring of
the picturesque scenery. The plain itself was
ornamented with vineyards, and cheered the mind
with the prospect of coming plenty, as did the
Indian corn, growing abundantly under the very
walls of the town. This day's journey of eight

26 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

posts was much the easiest we have made.
Reached a comfortable hotel at nine minutes past
five o'clock.

Monday, November 26. L'ile stir de Doubs. —
Left this place at two minutes past seven. A de-
lightful morning, the sun rising with unwonted
brilliancy. The chain of mountains forms a boun-
dary to the right of an extensive plain, innumer-
able villages diversifying the scene, romantically
crowned with ruins of castles, which speak of
times of yore. The road continued excellent as
far as Belfort, a strongly fortified town, where
art and nature combine to resist a siege. At this
town we stopped to take some refreshment. The
Salle-d-manger being warm, it sufficed for a short
visit of an hour for coffee. The weather now
changed, snow began to fall, and continued in-
creasing the whole afternoon. The horses ad-
vanced with difficulty, and as the road became
slippery and mountainous, we stopped at Tavey,
to have them rough-shod. We were four hours
and thirty-four minutes going two posts and a
half, the postillions walking most of the way.
The humble accommodation at the inn was com-
paratively comfortable : a good fire is an accept-
able object, after a snowy, mountainous journey ;
staircase and floors must be disregarded.

Tuesday, November 27. Hotel de Paris.

BESANgON. 27

Besan^on. — Terrified at the road pierced along
the side of a stupendous rock, — ascending and
descending, — covered with snow. A fearful pre-
cipice lay on the right, — a rapid, foaming river be-
neath. With all my courage, I could not sup-
press a scream as the postillions trotted down the
windings, and my request to be allowed to walk
was unavailing. How glad I was whenever a
waggon appeared : it seemed to assure one's safety,
as did the cheerful, good-tempered countenances
of the conductors. Fortunately it has ceased to
snow, and the cold is not so severe. As we
advance, I can better enjoy the beautiful and
magnificent scenery, which, notwithstanding its
wintry garb, strikes the beholder with awe and
admiration. How thankfully I beheld the road
now protected by parapets and hedges ; and then
the widening plain and sloping vineyards ! The
Doubs is navigated by the assistance of locks at
several distances. We observed many barges
passing the falls in the river, which without the
locks would form insurmountable obstacles to
navigation. The snow has now almost dis-
appeared. At a quarter past five we reached this
strongly fortified town, and found the hotel
superior to that of last night. The landlady
wishes us to remain to-morrow to see the beauties
of the town.

28 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Wednesday, November 28. Poligny. — -After a
stormy journey over the Jura mountain, and along
a difficult road, we, with the blessing of the
Almighty, arrived here in safety at five o'clock.
The wind rose so high that it compelled M —
to descend from the carriage and walk. And
dreading lest the vehicle, though pretty substan-
tial, should be blown over, I disregarded the dis-
figurement of my hat and cloak, and joined him in
his walk down the descent, sheltered behind the
carriage. I thus felt comparatively secure, and,
oh ! how I commiserated the poor old men and
women, who, laden with bundles of wood, were
toiling patiently over the mountain in face of the
boisterous gale, fatigued and worn ! Can we who
possess the luxuries of life be sufficiently thankful
to that Almighty power who has bestowed them
on us ? Let us study to merit them, and when in
security never forget the dangers and troubles
that have presented themselves in the progress of
life. Now seated by a comfortable fire, with an
affectionate companion, the table nicely prepared
for tea, and kettle boiling, the rattling of the
windows and boisterous sounds make me the more
sensible of present enjoyments and the storm we
have just escaped. Surely the German saying is
true, Getheilte Freud? ist ganze Freude ; getheilter
Schmerz ist halber Schmerz!

BOURG. 29

There is a new road nearly completed, to
avoid the mountain we have just crossed. How
great an advantage to future travellers in this
part of France ! Ann praises the present fille
f/r c/tambre, as she understands her French
so much better than others we have met with.
The other evening at Colmar, when she said,
" Mademoiselle — Lampe de nuit — sil mm plait !
Comment ! voulcz TOUS un verre de feau de
ric ? " This made Ann for the first time angry ; —
she said, she really would not understand. The
horses and postillions have been very good to-
day, and we found them ready at the different
stations, the conductor of the diligence having
ordered them at our request.

Thursday, November 29. Bourg. — A fine
morning after a stormy night. We were in the
carriage by twenty minutes past seven. Ther-
mometer 52°, which on Monday was 32°. Very
few hills : good road over a vast plain, richly
cultivated. The sun was so powerful that we
required the shades down almost throughout the
day, and the country was enlivened by cattle
grazing, often tended by children only. A flat
broad-brimmed black lace hat is here worn by
the country women, very different from any I
have seen elsewhere. Everywhere the roads are
undergoing repair, and in some parts being

30 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

widened. We passed some extensive salt-works.
The towns are adorned by public fountains ;
and the French women still continue the custom
of washing in the public stream. On setting oft'
from the last station, one of the horses began
kicking going down a descent, but ceased imme-
diately on the slipper being fixed to the wheel,
which is performed without the servant's getting
down — an excellent invention, and only requiring
care. Arrived at this town at five o'clock.

Friday, November 30. Bourg. — A catarrh,
which troubled me exceedingly last night and
disturbed my rest, is not much better this morn-
ing ; but an extra piece of new flannel will
I trust prevent any inconvenience from our con-
tinuing our journey at the early hour of twenty
minutes before six. The day was just dawning
in all its refulgent glory. The sun breaking
through the dark clouds, and suffusing them with
amber, purple, emerald, sapphire, and other tints
more brilliant than art could possibly imitate.
But, as if to teach mankind that the brightest
colours soonest fade, the sky quickly became
overcast, and in the forenoon we had a con-
tinuance of light showers. To-day's journey
carried us along the continuance of a vast plain,
with a view of distant mountains. The road is
not yet in complete order, the pave having

LYONS. 31

yielded to the Mac -Adam system. For a few
miles we had an extra horse, the ascent requir-
ing additional force. All the towns we passed
through appeared dirty and out of repair ; the
few new houses building were of mud, supported
by a few planks and stones at the base. From
Mirabel, we ascended a steep hill, and soon
gained a fine view of Lyons, its surrounding
gardens, rivers, and mountains, and at twenty
minutes before three were set down at the
Hotel de Provence.

Saturday Evening, December 1. Hotel de
Provence. Lyons. — A letter announcing my dear
brother's continued illness gave us great pain.
It is impossible to enjoy the pleasures of the
world when those we regard are deprived of

them. M went to synagogue. I did not

accompany him, finding myself hoarse after the
soreness on my chest. Towards noon I im-
proved, and the sun invited me to take a nearer
view of the handsome equestrian statue of Louis
XIV., in the Place Belle-cour, a sight of which
and of the neighbouring mountains, we gained
from our window. The troops were performing
their evolutions in the square, after completing
which they filed off in martial array. The pro-
menade along the quay presents a busy scene.
Numberless casks and bales were about to be

32 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

embarked on the rivers, — the Rhone, the Saone,
the Loire, which afford such great facilities to
the commerce of this city. The streets are badly
paved and worse kept. To-day a religious pro-
cession was to have taken place, by order of the
archbishop, but the people would not allow it to
enter the gates of the city. Multitudes have
assembled, and insulted the priests, while they
demolished the figure representing the saint
intended to be honoured. At one o'clock I went

with M to afternoon prayers. A . Mr. H.

R , President du Conservatoire a Lyons, escorted

us to the neighbouring restaurateur, where dinner
was ordered. This gentleman politely urged us*
to dine with him. He remained with us during
the greater part of our repast. This did not
consist of the most luxurious kind of viands ;
but we were satisfied, considering the shortness
of the notice to prepare it,

Sunday, December 2. Hotel de Provence. Lyons.
— A rainy morning. All the shops are closed.
Armstrong is returned from the post without
letters. We are very anxious to hear from home.
It is most perplexing to be on a journey in a state
of anxious uncertainty with regard to sick friends.
We know not whether to proceed or return.

This day admitted of no walk. We rode to
Mr. R 's to dinner, and having engaged

LYONS. S3

a box at the opera, which commences at six, we
went thither at half-past. During our repast
our host entertained us with anecdotes of the
inhabitants. The theatre is spacious, not ele-
gantly fitted up, but well lighted with gas. The
house was full, and a new ballet was presented,
called the Deux Roses ; both the orchestra,
dancing, and costumes being very superior. At
half-past ten it was over. The box for four
persons was only fifteen francs.

Monday, December 3. Lyons. — A fine warm

morning. Walked with M over the quay to

the Hotel de Yille. Saw the museum : greatly
pleased with the pictures. A large painting by
Victor Orsel, of Moses being presented to Pha-
raoh, and another by Rubens. Tasso in a
Lunatic Hospital, by Henry Richard, (fine light
and shade,) and a head by Rembrant, fine
specimens of art.

Tuesday, December 4. Hotel de Provence.
Lyons. — Walked over the new suspension bridge,
called Pont Palais de Justice. A new palace is
now being erected opposite this bridge. Entered
the cathedral, and the chapel, where Saint
Exupere, lately presented by Pope Gregory XVI.
to the city of Lyons, was surrounded by persons
to take a view of the martyr, who lay, decorated
in white satin and gold, in a glass coffin.

D

34 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

By the existing law of France, religious
public processions are prohibited. The Arch-
bishop of Lyons, however, thought proper to
have a public display of the Pope's muni-
ficence; but the prefect fearing lest some dis-
turbance might be produced by the infringement
on present regulations, sent a troop of soldiers to
prevent the procession entering the gates of the
city. The multitude had, at an early hour, col-
lected in great numbers. The priests became
alarmed, and retired round the private entrance
to the cathedral, and the saint was at last peace-
ably deposited in the chapel. We heard some
soldiers, who had just gratified their curiosity
by a look, say, laughingly to each other, " Oh,
c'est ne rien que cire" In the evening went to the
Gymnase theatre, and were well entertained.
Armstrong and Ann went also.

Wednesday, December 5. — I am thankful for a
fine morning for our excursion upon the Rhone,'
but the rain of the preceding week has so raised
the water, which flows abundantly into this river,
that the captain doubted for some time whether
the passage under the various chain-bridges
would be practicable. It was at length agreed to
attempt it, and at half-past nine we were on
board the Comete, French steam-boat. Another
carriage besides our own was on deck, and more

THE RHONE. 35

than a hundred passengers, of whom some were
English. I wrapped myself up pretty warmly, as
I found something more than a gentle breeze
blowing, and I had been suffering from cold for
some days past. The vociferating calls of the
captain and men, till I became used to them, made
me almost imagine that something alarming was
about to happen ; but after the arrangements had
all been made, and breakfast finished, we found
the cheerful song, laughing conversation, and
good-tempered countenances of the crew very
agreeable. The bustle and litter of the luggage
led Armstrong to suggest that the cabin would be
preferable to the deck : however, we found so nu-
merous an assemblage there, and the ceiling so
low, that we soon returned to old quarters. I
amused myself with the conversation of a French
lady and her little boy, till the approach to the
first bridge, when we all ran out of the way of the
ropes and chimney, which was to be lowered in
order to clear the arch. This being safely accom-
plished, we resumed our seats. The mountainous
scenery, crowned by various old castles and mo-
nasteries, frequent villages, vineyards, wherever
nature favoured the industry of man, and perpen-
dicular quarries, were objects sufficient to amuse
the eye, as the rapid current impelled us on at the
rate of fifteen miles an hour. The fourth bridge
D 2

36 NOTES FROM A. JOURNAL.

now became an object of alarm, it being so low to
the water, that for some time it was doubted
whether we should be able to pass. The anxiety
of the passengers, who had all assembled at the
head of the vessel whilst the height of water was
being measured, was intense. At last it was as-
certained that there were four inches to spare,
and the captain resolved on proceeding. With
expressions and intimations of fear from many
we cleared the bridge in safety, and again the
mind passed from agitation to tranquillity. The
number of new suspension-bridges over the
several rivers in this province, undertaken by
companies, must greatly facilitate the intercourse
of the various districts and commercial enterprise.
It is to be regretted that these elegant structures
were not better considered in respect to the rising
of the waters of so rapid a current as the Rhone.
Much delay and uneasiness might thereby have
been avoided. Perhaps this error may yet be
corrected. It was four o'clock before we reached
Valence, two hours later than usual. The boat
was consequently not expected at the hotel this
evening, and the bustle of preparing dinner for
the Table d'Hote, &c. and chambers for a greater
number of visitors than usual, immediately com-
menced. Armstrong had run off on the first stop-
ping of the vessel, to take possession of the best

AVIGNON. 37

room for us, so that we found the wood-fire
blazing, and tea already prepared. A plate of
macaroni and hot potatoes soon added to the
acceptable repast ; and as we are to be on board
to-morrow by six o'clock, we retired early, but
not to rest, repose being effectually banished by
the noise of heavy footsteps, loud calling of
gar §on a,n<ifemme de chambre, and the conversation
of some of the more contented guests, prolonged
till a late hour. When Ann rapped at the door
at four o'clock, I had had so little sleep that I
requested her to ask whether the captain did not
think it too boisterous to depart !

Thursday, December 6. Avignon. — Thanks to
that all-merciful Power, whose goodness towards
us has been manifest in so many instances, we ar-
rived at this town in safety at two o'clock, after a
cold and windy passage : I was, however, well
protected in the carriage, and most of the com-
pany took refuge in the cabin. Occasionally I
attempted to walk the deck, but as speedily made

my retreat. My dear M , for the most part,

was my companion, and several of our yesterday's
acquaintance sociably entered into conversation
at the carriage door. Among them were the
Bishop of Nancy, a man of fine intelligent coun-
tenance, and his chaplain ; and an Italian gentle-
man, who, with his lady and two young sons, are

38 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

on their return to Milan, after some absence in
England. They informed us that his grace was
proceeding to Rome, to make complaints to
his holiness against his rebellious flock, who
refused to follow certain rigid admonitions. His
countenance was benign and amiable, and his
manner equally so. We thought we could not
appropriate the evening more agreeably than by
going to the opera, and therefore sent to engage a
box, and went at half-past six. La Dame Blanche
was performed. It was for the benefit of a blind
actor, who took a part in the after-piece.

Friday , December 7. Hotel de L' Europe. Avig-
non.— After inquiring concerning members of our
religion in this town, we learn that there is no
assemblage at synagogue on Sabbath, unless par-
ticularly called for — it is merely on particular
holidays that they meet. A member of our com-
munity is the master of the Hotel Palais Royal,
opposite to this, but there is no meat or poultry
to be had properly killed, except it be expressly
ordered. Went to see the ancient cathedral,
built on a rock, where one of the popes, Innocent
XII., and many of the most renowned men of the
department of Vaucluse, lie interred.

The piercing wind prevailing at this time, and
which usually continues for about three months,
made us glad to return to the hotel.

AVIGNON. 39

The climate of Avignon is variable and danger-
ous, a dazzling sun and overpowering heat in
summer ; and in winter continued gales, are suf-
ficient to try most constitutions. It is common
to see chimney-tops and tiles of houses lying
strewed about every morning, during the high
wind. The streets are clean, but badly paved,
and we observed a great number of empty houses.
Our hostess presented me with a delicious bou-
quet— roses, heliotrope, and jasmine : her man-
ners exhibited no small share of politeness and
good temper. Armstrong contrived to have ex-
cellent soup-maigre for dinner. The fish obtain-
ed here from Marseilles is extremely fresh, and of
good quality. The mail performs the journey in
little more than six hours.

Saturday, December 8. Hotel de TEurope.
Avignon. — A valet de place escorted us to visit
some of the curiosities of the town. The first
object which demanded our attention was the
ancient palace of the popes, an edifice well cal-
culated to excite both awe and admiration. It
traces its origin to the twelfth century, and its
history is connected with many of the most
startling events recorded in the annals of the
middle ages. The eminence on which it stands
commands a most extensive view of the plains of
Provence, the mountains of Piedmont, and the

40 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Mediterranean. Some of the spacious arched
rooms are now converted into barracks ; and it is
not without horror that one beholds the hall
where the Inquisition was held, the prisons
where the poor martyrs were incarcerated, and
the spot where their sufferings were ended in
the burning pile. Several names and dates were
inscribed on the walls. We were then shown
some fresco paintings, the colours on the ceilings
still retain great brightness. Our next visit was
to the Museum ; in the hall are some immense jars
found in the vicinity. The collection of anti-
quities and medals is very interesting, as well as
the pictures, especially those by Vernet, brothers.
A startling one is that of a Cossack on horseback
crossing a wooden bridge over a foaming torrent.
The bridge gives way ; and the figure of the horse
is terror itself. There are some convents remain-
ing in this town, about twelve out of a hundred
and fifty ; the nuns never go out, but are allowed
to speak to their friends through the grilles. It
has been a very cold and windy day, though,
thanks to Heaven, we have been extremely happy.
Sunday, December 9. Hotel du Prince. Aix. —
At nine we quitted Avignon with the good
wishes of our hostess, who expressed hopes that
we should not forget her on our return : she hand-
ed us in the carriage a parcel of cakes, and one of

AIX. 41

roasted chestnuts for the journey. As we pro-
ceeded the wind abated, but the cold continued.
Thermometer forty-eight to fifty-two through-
out the day. About two leagues off was the
famous wooden bridge over la Durance, vis-d-vis to
which is the convent of la Chartreuse, called le
Bon Pas. Numbers of Cypress-trees planted in
rows form walls against the sun and wind. Ex-
tensive plains, diversified by sterile rocks and
snowy mountains, extend over a vast district,
varied by the olive and the vine. The road for
twelve or fourteen miles was in good order ; it
then became heavy and full of ruts, and for three
quarters of an hour we had a mountainous pass.
Innumerable open carts passed us, mostly drawn
by mules with a donkey for a leader : — I do not
mean a driver ! The view from the summit of the
ascent is extremely grand and imposing, from its
extent, and from the various colours of the sur-
rounding rocks, terraces of vines descending to
the valley, and the winding road leading to the
town of Aix.

We arrived about twenty minutes before five,
and found spacious and well-furnished apart-
ments at this hotel. A fountain near a post-house,
on the way, reminded me very forcibly of our
having seen, during our last journey on this
road, an old woman, who moistened her hard,

42 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

black crust of bread at the same stream ! where
is she, after so long an interval !

Monday, December 10. Hotel Beauveau. Mar-
seilles.— As we had but four postes' journey from
Aix, we walked through the principal streets of
that town, and looked into two churches, where,
as at all hours, we found persons at their devo-
tions. The houses are large, and built of stone, but
the red tiles on the roofs spoil their appearance.

The streets are narrow and badly paved, clean-
liness is disregarded, but the cours and boulevards
are extremely agreeable. As the morning was
fine, I was tempted to take the first station out-
side with dear M . We set off at twelve.

The road was broad, and the ascents we had to
pass were protected by a parapet-wall. Many
labourers were repairing the road, which at present
is in a bad state, perhaps from a continuance of
some weeks of rain. The scenery is still ex-
tensive and diversified, pines ornamenting the
hills, and olives and vines the valleys. At
length the Mediterranean appeared. We then
passed some coal-mines. On descending the
steep entrance into this town the chain of the
slipper broke, and took some minutes to arrange,
during which time the carriage was surrounded
by numbers of the idle and curious. In our way,
being anxious for letters, we called at the post-

MARSEILLES. 43

office, where we found three. We obtained a com-
fortable saloon and chamber, with servants' room
adjoining, opposite the harbour, which is crowded
with vessels. We are informed that the Turkish
ambassador is in this house, and will depart
to-morrow by sea for Constantinople. The
appearance of the sky this afternoon has none of
that azure so much the boast of the south of
France. It wears the sombre covering of an
English December, though breathing a warmer air.
I find my boa requisite, and the fire is constantly
being replenished with large logs of wood, near
which we are passing the evening, thinking of
our friends, talking of them, reading and writing.
Tuesday, December 11. Marseilles. — Mr. C —

called this morning to welcome M . At one

he returned in a carriage with his lady, and we
accompanied them to the gas-station. We then
drove back, engaged a box at the Grand Theatre
for the benefit of M. and Madame Taigny of Paris ;
great favourites here. A dinner being ordered at
Solomon's, we went at five, (after attending syna-
gogue, this being the first day of Hanuka,) and
found an excellent repast prepared, exceedingly
clean, and in the best order: at half-past six
Armstrong brought a carriage, and we repaired

to Rue de Rome to call for Mr. and Mrs. C ,

who accompanied us to the theatre. The

44 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

house was thronged with well-dressed company,
and the acting extremely good : four amusing
vaudevilles wrere performed, which continued till
past eleven o'clock. The vociferating noise in
the pit, during the acts, exceeded anything of
the kind I had ever before heard.

Wednesday, December 12. Hotel Beauveau.
Marseilles. — This morning we were greeted with
several letters from our distant friends. The
accounts, however, of our suffering relatives are
far from satisfactory. May we hope that the
divine mercy will grant them a speedy and perfect
restoration to health, amen ! Having engaged to

call for Mrs. C , at eleven I was at her house.

We drove for an hour up the country, but the
bad and heavy state of the roads diminished the
pleasure which the picturesque scenery would
otherwise have afforded. Went shopping, and
found articles of millinery expensive here. We
had some friends, at dinner. Fish, vegetables,
and fruit are extremely abundant in this country
and of superior quality, and the bread the best I
have tasted in France. Wine can be procured by
the people at a penny a bottle. The population con-
sists of a hundred and sixty thousand. The trade
in corn, oil, wine, and soap is very considerable.

Thursday, December \%th. Marseilles. — Mr.
C calls every morning about ten o'clock, and

MARSEILLES. 45

supplies us with Galignani's and other French
newspapers. The number of vessels discharging
their cargoes of corn, and various other merchan-
dise, present an amusing scene opposite our win-
dows, the extensive harbour being crowded with
vessels from different countries ; and large steam-
boats, appointed by government, depart from hence
every ten days for various ports in Italy, Egypt,
&c. The quay affords a lively promenade, where
crowds of people of various countries pass to and
fro, some smoking, others purchasing at different
shops and stalls. The Corso is generally embel-
lished with a good supply of flowers for sale.
Rows of trees and well-built houses on either
side of a rising walk, lead to the lazaretto, which
is a handsome stone building commanding a beau-
tiful sea view and surrounding rocks : the water
appears of a deep blue. Were the people more
observant of cleanliness this would be a delightful
promenade. At present it is used for a rope-walk,
and the houses on the right appear dilapidated.

The Isle of Iff is in view, where Mirabeau was
imprisoned. We often take a luncheon of coffee
or chocolate at the cafes, which are never with-
out company, many of whom are seen at cards or
dominoes even in the day-time. Mr. S con-
tinues his dinners in the best manner. We un-
derstand that religion is greatly neglected here —

46 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

and those, who can best afford to support the
institutions, neglect them. The rabbi and
reader here, as in other towns, are paid by govern-
ment. There is a school for boys, and one for
girls. Hebrew, French, and Latin are taught,
and efficient masters instruct them in translat-
ing. We again visited the theatre, it being
Madame Taigny's benefit. The audience was

numerous and respectable. Mr. 0 and family

were of our party, and some of their friends
were in the adj oining boxes. The entertainments
continued till twelve o'clock, at which time the
gas is extinguished. At the moment the light
was reduced, though not put out, this sudden
transition to the crowded company, from bril-
liancy to dulness, called forth a burst of mirth
and good tempered remarks.

Friday, December 14. Hotel Beauveau. Mar-
seilles.— There is a constant succession of arrivals
at this hotel; some by steam-boats, others by land;
some on their way to Italy, others returning.

Mr. R and his partner called on us, and

offered most politely their services. I wrote a letter

to my dear sister H , then walked to our

favourite spot to gain a view of the sea, and after-
wards to the fruit and flower market. There is a
peculiar sort of fish sold here in great abundance,
rather larger than anchovies, called les Sardines,

MARSEILLES. 47

and also a shell-fish peculiar to this coast. The
markets afford a plentiful supply of various fish,
to gratify the taste and aid the observance of
abstinence from meat on Fridays. A bottle of
Muscat, a superior quality of which is found
in this country, was put on our evening table, in
order to chase away those recollections which the
illness of our absent friends shaded with sadness ;
but happily the consoling Sabbath had taught us
to confide in that Power which alone can cure the
sick, give balm to the afflicted, and substitute
satisfaction and felicity for regret.

Saturday, December 15. Marseilles. — After
attending synagogue, called on Mr. and Mrs.

C . They accompanied us in a walk up the

Mount de la Garde de Notre Dame. Here is a
column supporting a fine bust of Napoleon. At
the return of the Bourbons this was displaced, but
is now reinstated. Further is a venerated figure
of the Virgin. Having passed a row of handsome
new houses, the sea and adjacent mountains com-
mand the admiration of the beholder. Advancing
further, the sight of the extensive city and har-
bour, crowded with sails, is added to the coup
d'oeil. How grateful ought the inhabitants of
those regions to be, in which nature and art have
so munificently united to minister to their wants
and pleasures ! but here, as elsewhere, you find

48 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

multitudes dissatisfied, poor, and unhappy. A
small cottage to let attracted our attention to its
beautiful locality. A gentleman who possesses
the adjoining house politely offered to show us it
from his garden. It is a landscape in miniature ;
a neat garden planted with vines, olives, and
flowers, joined to a pretty cottage on a hill, close
to the sea, within a mile of the city. The road back
was beautifully planted on either side with choice
shrubs, bounded by a trim hedge, and embellished
with grottoes, fountains, and stone seats, and
walks leading down to the Boulevards. We passed

an agreeable evening at Mrs.C ?s where a small

party were invited to meet us. Whist and dcarte.
Sunday, December 16. Marseilles. — Our in-
quietude respecting our dear brother B

was in a degree allayed, by a more favour-
able letter from home; but the one concern-
ing the health of my dear sister A was

not so satisfactory. May the Almighty grant
them a speedy and perfect re-establishment.
The promenade was to-day crowded. Vegeta-
bles, fruit, fish, toys, and bonbons were to
be had in abundance, for the enjoyment of
the Sunday, when the superiority in dress
was observable. Walked with Mr. and Mrs.

C to the Sanatoire to see the bas-relief of

Puget, and the paintings of the plague which

MARSEILLES. 49

infested this city in the seventeenth century — one
of the yellow fever at Barcelona, and another of
the cholera. We afterwards went to see the
Hotel de Ville ; the facade, and staircase by
Puget are extremely handsome. Here we saw
another large painting descriptive of the plague,
executed by a pupil of Puget.

The figures are well pourtrayed, and give an
awful representation of that dreadful visitation.
The galley-slaves are sent to bury the bodies,
when all, except four, fall victims to the scourge.
The remaining four are questioned as to the man-
ner of their escape, since all their comrades had
suffered : they said it was by the use of strong
vinegar — whence that quality of vinegar was ever
after distinguished as " Vinegar of the four galley
slaves." A beautiful picture of Hannibal crossing
the Alps, by Feron, also adorns this room. The
conqueror has just attained the summit of the
mountain, and is in the act of pointing out the
town to his comrades. A wounded soldier raises
his head to behold the scene, while pain and
curiosity are blended in his countenance. The
clouds over the Alps, and the fine azure of an
Italian sky are skilfully depicted. Our morning
excursions were terminated by a row up the
harbour. The boatman amused us by his loqua-
city, and we learned from him that he had been
E

50 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

a prisoner during the war, in Portsmouth, and
had fought in many a battle. He added that war
was desirable at Marseilles : the population was
too great ; — they would eat each other ! We
landed on the opposite side of the harbour. Mr.

and Mrs. C and Mr. P took tea with us

Monday, December 17. Cujes. — Our expecta-
tion of receiving another letter was fulfilled
this morning before we quitted Marseilles,
though its tendency was not of a more favour-
able nature than any previously received. About
eleven o'clock we were seated in the carriage,
and on the road to Toulon. The diversity of the
scenery compensated for heavy roads ; but as
the materials for repairing them lie ready on
either side, it is to be hoped they will soon be
improved. Crags reaching to the skies, wore a
different shape at every turn of the road, some
covered to the summit with thickly planted pine,
contrasting, by its bright green foliage, with the
opposing sterile rocks, and the fertile valley,
neatly and carefully decked with the olive and
vine, the young wheat springing up in the inter-
vals between. Who could behold these gifts
of Providence without reflecting in gratitude on
the goodness whence they spring ? Huge masses
of stone for the aid and purposes of art ; oil,
for light and taste ; wine to gladden the heart ;

TOULON. 51

corn, the staff of life ; — all concentrated in one
spot. Frost and ice were to be seen here. At
Aubagne we were detained an hour and a quarter
for horses, but we employed the interval in taking
some refreshment, and looking at a marble monu-
ment, erected in honour of the Abbe Barthelemy,
author of Anacharsis' Greece. It is surmounted
by his bust, and an account of his works and
merits is inscribed on either side the pedestal
in Latin and French. He was a native of this
town. We then proceeded over an improved
road, and through a magnificent country, to
Cujes, and were again informed that the horses
were all out, but some were expected to return
in the course of an hour : we waited patiently
some time beyond the stated period. At last the
sound of the whip announced their arrival : the
poor animals had now to be refreshed. Another
hour had elapsed, and finding darkness approach-
ing, we judged it more prudent to pass the night
in this small town, particularly as the mistress
of the hotel had repeatedly invited us to walk
up stairs and warm ourselves. We found the
accommodation surpass our expectation. The
bread is excellent here, and this with good butter,
coffee, and eggs, by the side of a lively wood fire,
composed an agreeable meal.

Tuesday, December 18. Toulon. Hotel la
E 2

52 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Croix d'Or. — A little before six this morning, a
tap at the door warned us that it was time to
rise ; at half-past six the horses were ordered,
and we hastened to be in readiness. Again we
were detained by the mismanagement of the
postillions or master, whilst the animals were
being rough-shod, a work not so speedily effected
here. In the meantime we heard a carriage arrive;
it was a caravan taking prisoners to Toulon.
Poor unfortunates ! not a very enviable journey
for them. A little before eight we were again
en route, with an extra pair of horses, having an
ascent of three quarters of an hour. The sub-
limity of the prospects increased at every turn,
and we could not forbear reflecting on the
long interval that had elapsed since our former
visit to this lovely country, nor suppress our
thanks for being again permitted to travel
through it in health and enjoyment. Having
attained the summit, the two extra horses were
unharnessed, and we again proceeded with four :
an excellent road brought us to the descent. The
craggy rocks now seemed to tower above the
skies, and awfully to refuse the appearance of
an outlet, which is only discovered on the turn
of the road, pierced through the side of the
stupendous mountain, dissevered from the oppo-
site side by a torrent.

TOULON. 53

Though I could not behold these astonishing
works of nature without amazement, yet the
more softening views of the cultivated valleys,
and terraces of vines and olives, with the enliven-
ing pine covering the hills, were more welcome
objects.

Nothing could exceed the beauty of the sun's
reflection on the waters of the Mediterranean,
which broke suddenly on the view between the
mountains in the distance, while the towering
masts of the shipping increased the grandeur, and
added new life and interest to the scene. After
a delightful journey of twenty miles, we reached
this town; and the clean and well-furnished
hotel, in a lively situation, pleased us as much as
the breakfast proved salutary, after the stimu-
lants of air and exercise.

We devoted this day to letter-writing, and
find ourselves so comfortable as to be wavering
whether to proceed to-morrow on our way to
Nice, or remain here for a few days.

Wednesday y December 19. Toulon. Hotel la
Croix d'Or. — This comfortable residence, town,
and sea-air have tempted us to continue till
Sunday. Having asked permission of the soldier,
stationed at the entrance of the dock-yard, to

enter, M sent his card to the officer, when a

corporal was desired to show the kitchen, the

54 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

forge, and take us to view the hospital-ship. On
our return, the officer politely inquired if we
would like to see his garden, to which he escorted
us. It is a walled retreat, covered with vine and
fig-trees, affording a shelter from the summer's
scorching sun.

The officer took great pains to search for vio-
lets, wishing to add some to the ranunculuses
which he had previously gathered, but all had
disappeared, as he said, in this morbid season. He
then asked me if I should fear an excursion on
the water. The fineness of the day insured a
negative to the question, and immediately a large
boat rowed by eight men approached us. The
clearness of the water in the inner harbour made
us consent to proceed to the outer one, and while
gliding along this magnificent basin, the history
of the surrounding heights, fortresses, naval
schools, and ships were explained to us by one
of our gallant companions.

First, the fortress built by Louis XIV., now
used as an hospital ; then the sterile mountains of
the islands of Hyeres, old castles, batteries, mag-
nificent arsenals, &c. The Montebello now be-
came the grand object of attention. A bell having
sounded, two midshipmen appeared on the steps.
I was handed up, and introduced to the officers
of this superb man-of-war. Nothing could ex-

TOULON. 55

ceed its neatness. The decks were as white as
snow, the brass works as bright as gold, and the
officers' apartments were furnished with hand-
some carpets, looking-glasses, and highly polished
mahogany, with crimson silk. Decks of immense
sjace, and one hundred and fifty-guns, are found
in this colossal vessel ; whose full complement
oi men is one thousand. There were now about
tvo hundred on board.

After seeing the kitchen, the dining room, and
tie various equipments of the ship, we took our
leive, highly gratified at having been permitted
t( visit, with amicable sentiments, an object so
inportant in time of war, but now of admiration
cnly, and never of terror to our brave country-
men. When experiencing the courtesy, the
suavity of manners of strangers in a foreign clime,
and who have been our rivals for years, one can-
not but hope most ardently, that ambition may
never again overpower humanity, or interrupt
that delightful intercourse with different nations,
and mankind in general, so favourable to the
best interests of the world. We returned to the
boat, escorted by the officer, Monsieur A. A.

F , highly delighted with his politeness, and

our morning's amusement.

The ship that took Buonaparte to Egypt was

lying in the harbour : Monsieur F said it

was as a monument.

56 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Thursday, December 20. Toulon. — Wrote let-
ters to some of our friends, as the post for
England leaves at two o'clock. We then wert
to see the arsenal, one of the finest in Europe.
A written permission must be obtained to viiit
this splendid establishment. The stone buildings
are magnificent, its arches and columns being on
a gigantic scale.

The rope- walk extends twelve hundred feetfn
length, and is supported by arches. We saw tiie
various processes of the rope-manufacture, fron
the combing of the hemp to the forming of tie
thick cord. One side of this immense apartmeit
was covered with enormous iron cables. Tie
number of cannon, from eighty to thirty, down to
twelve pounders was incalculable : several nev
ships, of one hundred guns each, are being con-
structed, with perpendicular sides instead of
round. There was only one of one hundred and
twenty guns, besides the Montebello. The
armoury was embellished by several figures in
ancient coats of mail. The model-room contains
handsome models of remarkable vessels, both
ancient and modern, of all nations. Bands of
galley-slaves are here employed, and appeared as
comfortably stationed as men in their unfortunate
situation could hope for. Some were sitting
unemployed, others chained two and two, were

TOULON. 57

pointed out to us as greater criminals than such
as were alone. The green cap marks the con-
demned for life. After the hour of labour they
are allowed to employ their time to their own
advantage. We made some trifling purchases of
them of carved wood and netted twine. One of
them spoke English very well, and said he was
condemned for seven years for dealing in slaves.
At half-past four the work-people left by the gate
at which we had entered, the only one to the
arsenal.

We returned our admission-ticket to the sen-
tinel. A file of soldiers was drawn up in the
outer court-yard, to keep order as the people left,
no one being suffered to remain within the gate,
except the prisoners and soldiers to guard them.
The arsenal is said to be more extensive than the
town of Toulon ; but the population is increasing,
and several new houses are being constructed,
especially in the faubourg. Our valet de place,
to-day, was a brevet major, who had lost his right
arm in the battle of Navarino. His countenance
was open and agreeable, and we found him very
communicative. Returning along the fine broad
quay, we met our polite friend, the officer who
yesterday escorted us. The fish-market is re-
markable. It is covered, and supported by ten
stupendous pillars, and was surrounded by fruit

58 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

and green stalls. The chattering of the women
and noise of the purchasers made it seem a
second Babel.

Friday, December 21. Toulon. Hotel la Croix
d'Or. — A cold windy morning prevented our ful-
filling our intention of breakfasting at Hyeres, a
pretty, small town, two leagues distant, famous
for orange, lemon, citron, and pomegranate trees.
The salt-rocks also are beautiful, with the sun's
reflection.

The number of diligences in the square affords
constant amusement ; but when my dear M—
is well and happy, and I hear of the welfare of
my friends, I want little else to make me perfectly
so. At one o'clock, our usual hour for walking,
we went to the quay, and took a boat to examine
the inscription on the Muiron, the frigate which
brought Buonaparte from Egypt ; it is as fol-
lows : —

MUIRON

CETTE FRIGATE

PRISE EN VENISE

EN MDCCXCVII

EST CELLE QUI A RAMEN^

BONAPARTE D^GYPTE

EN MDCCXCIX.

Pyramids. An Eagle with Lightning. An Oak

& Palm-trees. Emblematical Figures. with Serpents.

TOULON. 59

Saturday Evening, December 22. Toulon. —
A fine, but rather cold, day : it is fortunate to
have some cold weather and wind to chase away
the disagreeable odours, and destroy the insects
prevalent in warm climates. The stream of
water running on each side the streets is also a
great acquisition. Several handsome fountains
playing in the squares are not only a luxury, but
a means of safety, where epidemic diseases have
scoured the country of half its inhabitants.
About two years since the cholera raged here to
a dreadful extent. Near five thousand inhabit-
ants perished in a few weeks. May the Almighty
guard us from such a visitation !

We this morning walked to see the works

erected for gas-lighting by Mr. D . They

are situated outside the gates, near the mountains,
on an agreeable spot for the manager. This
town is very quiet at an early hour in the
evening. The bugle sounds soon after six, for
the soldiers to retire to their barracks. The
theatre is spoken of in terms that do not excite
a wish to visit it. We devoted the evening to

write to Mrs. M and Mr. D . The

balcony of the Hotel de Ville is supported by two
marble grotesque figures by Puget, said to be
portraits of two official personages who had
affronted him, and recognised by everybody.

60 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Sunday, December 23. Frejus. — Left Toulon at
half -past seven, after a sojourn of five days of
content and happiness. We passed the ramparts
and strong fortifications, and entered on a fine
level road, through a beautiful plain, planted
with the olive and vine, bounded by moun-
tains, mostly sterile, but here and there covered
with cultivated terraces. An old sombre castle,
or fortress, crowns some of their summits, or
marks their centre as the scene of actions worthy
of historic recollection, and stamped with the
celebrity of Buonaparte, Louis XI V., or some more
ancient hero. The morning was cold and gloomy ;
and as our host had predicted, it commenced rain-
ing as we left Le Luc, where we breakfasted.
After travelling three and three quarters postes,
we were rather disappointed in the appearance
of this town, and the accommodations at the inn ;
but they did their possible, and we could but be
satisfied. The road continued in the best order,
winding through extensive plains, richly cul-
tivated, and more abounding in pasture than at
the commencement of the day's journey.

The scene was enlivened by several flocks of
sheep and their shepherds, and profusions of
emerald-pine covering the heights. Vidauban
and May are dirty old towns, though well watered
by streams and fountains. The populace were

FEE JUS TO NICE. 61

thickly assembled in the market-places, where
stalls of vegetables, fruit, &c., were on show.
Approaching this town, we were struck with the
appearance of some fine ruins, vestiges of Roman
architecture. It was near this place that Buona-
parte landed, in 1799, on his return from Egypt ;
and it was from Frejus that he embarked on
going to Elba, after his abdication. We arrived
at half -past five o'clock.

Monday, December 24. Frejus to Nice. Ten
Posies. — Left Frejus at ten minutes past seven,
after taking some very nice coffee. The bill for
the night at the Hotel de la Poste was very mo-
derate. We again passed some imposing ruins of
a Roman aqueduct and amphitheatre. The
ascent over a steep and rocky mountain soon
commenced, and as the road wound round the
tremendous height, our fears were somewhat in-
creased by the violence of the snow and wind,
which continued nearly the whole of this station.
A good-tempered, chatty postillion, who had for
forty years followed his present avocation, and
had the honour of conducting Buonaparte on his
return from Elba, informed us that, either by
accident or design, the beautiful plantations
of pine, cork-trees, and olives, which cover the
mountains, were set on fire, and burnt to the ex-
tent of nine or ten miles. In many parts the

62 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

effect is now visible. Only black trunks are re-
maining in the direction which the wind took,
making the uninjured wood more beautiful by
the contrast. Arriving at the summit, the Medi-
terranean appeared again in view, between the
distant mountains ; and glad was I to escape from
the rather piercing wind, to the more sheltered
plain. As we proceeded, divers shrubs and trees
excited the wish that a scientific botanist were
present to explain their various properties ; nor
was the geologist forgotten, as we contemplated
the majestic rocks, their various colours, and gro-
tesque forms. We stopped to change horses at
Esterel, at five minutes past ten, so that we were
nearly three hours going two postes, or ten miles.
The road afterwards continued nearly level, and
in the finest order, to the end of the day's journey.
Cannes, a beautifully situated town on the sea-
shore, is fast improving. Blocks of stone are
being collected round the harbour for a new port,
and several spacious hotels are nearly finished.
We passed the mansion of Lord Brougham, and
that of Sir Herbert Taylor, near to each other, on
the sea-shore, surrounded by groves of orange,
olive, &c., interspersed with vine. It being now
half-past twelve, we thought it time for break-
fast, and repaired to a cafe' for the purpose.
Here a gentlemen was seated, who spoke English,

NICE. 63

and on M 's asking if there was any butter in

the place, he replied, " Not here, but there is one
battery in the island, close by!" We crossed,
near Antibes, a small, elegant suspension- bridge,
then a long wooden bridge over the Var, in the
centre of which stood a sentinel and post-mark,
the commencement of the Piedmontese territory.

They detained us some little time at the
Douanes, without giving us any trouble. The
foaming billows rushed towards the rocky and
pebbled shore all the afternoon, and we congra-
tulated ourselves that we were on dry land.
The twilight of approaching evening impeded, in
a degree, the sight of the neighbouring beauties
of Nice. But the moon favoured us, and we
caught glimpses of some handsome houses and
delicious orangeries. Three letters awaited our
arrival ; that from home was far from cheering,
respecting our dear invalids.

Tuesday, December 25. Hotel des Etrangers,
Nice. — Christmas is kept in this town with great
solemnity, and a strict observance of the services
of the church. All business is suspended, the
shops are closed, except those of druggists and
confectioners, and the day had all the quiet of
an English Sunday, unless when the repose was
occasionally broken by bands of music. About
ten this morning, we were attracted to the win-

64 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

dow by a procession of veiled females, followed
by priests, each carrying a lighted wax- taper,
then a statue borne by four priests, followed by
four others bearing a coffin, attended by a num-
ber of other females in black veils and dresses,
all chanting the funeral dirge. The wife of the
Prefet was about to be interred. Peace to her
manes ! In our morning's walk we entered the
cathedral, but the intense heat from the great
assemblage of persons and number of lighted
candles, obliged us to quit instantly, though the
music and service would have induced us to re-
main. The hills and rocks near the sea are very
imposing. Terraces, covering the houses of the
lower town, afford delightful promenades. The
Corso, bordered with rows of trees, offers another
beautiful walk. Among the monuments erected
in honour of a visit of the king and queen, was
one with Hebrew characters on one side of the
pedestal, which supported an obelisk, with a
sphinx in each corner, all of white marble, en-
closed within an iron railing. It was erected by
the Israelites of this town. My dear husband
was particularly gratified with this object.

Wednesday, December 26. Nice. — This day
is also observed as a fete, the shops being shut
and the people abstaining from work. A military
band is playing on the Corso, where they as-

NICE. 65

semble, and afterwards go to church. We walked
by the sea-side, and in our way passed a number
of country-houses, fantastically painted, and re-
minding one of a scene in a play. The gardens,
embellished with orange and lemon-trees, loaded
with fruit, and the delicate acacia, covered with
flowers, are beautifully ornamental. Some of
the walks are bordered with aloes.

M — - went in the course of the morning to

present his letters to Mr. A , the Prussian

consul. He was received by that gentleman with
marked courtesy and kindness, and, throughout

our stay in this place, both he and Madame A ,

an amiable and accomplished lady, continued to
render us the most obliging attentions. In the
course of conversation we learnt that this country
is greatly wanting in liberality, and that the
members of our community are subject to much
oppression, and many disadvantages. How long
will the powerful oppress the weak, and endea-
vour to stifle the energies of their fellow beings ?
One consolation remains under such a state of
things. Conscientious feelings, well maintained
under oppression, ever excite the sympathy and
admiration of independent and virtuous minds.

We went at half-past seven to the opera.
The tragedy of Gemma di Vergy, a new piece,
was performed. The house is pretty ; the
F

66 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

acting not of the first rate, but very tolerable.
There was a crowded audience, and extremely
respectable.

Thursday, December 27. Nice. — I wrote a

letter to my sister A . At one o'clock Mr.

A paid us a visit, and requested us to

accompany him in his carriage to see his
country-residence. Our own carriage was already
at the door, but we could not refuse his attention.

The drive continued for a mile by the sea-side,
and having reached the villa, we found the sur-
rounding gardens ornamented with orange, lemon,
and fig-trees, luxuriantly covered with fruit and
foliage, while the acacia, rose, wild strawberry,
palm and myrtle, diffused around them grace and
fragrance. Walks, adapted to summer heat or
winter cold, are selected for their aspect. A cool
grotto and pavilion add to the agreeable retreat
in this little paradise. The house was neatly fur-
nished, muslin bed and window-curtains adapted
to the climate. The ceilings painted iu the
Italian style.

Mr. A. politely said, that he wished we had
taken up our residence here ; that we should find
all we required in it, except wearing apparel, and,
that he hoped on our return we would desire the
postillions to stop at this abode. On our way
back we wished to see the column erected by the

NICE. 67

Jewish community, that we might give an order
to a person to copy it.

To-day the shops are open, and the town ap-
pears gay. The older streets are narrow and
badly paved, and the population dense. In the
new, handsome buildings are fast increasing.

Friday, December 28. Nice. Hotel des
Et rangers. — We regretted not being aware that
there were three hotels, the H6tel du Midi,
Hdtel de France, and Hotel de Londres, com-
manding a view of the Corso and sea, while our
apartments in this hotel are cold and dull, and

look only into the street. M had just gone to

call on Mr. A , when that gentleman paid us

a visit, and sat a long time chatting. He is a very
agreeable person, and appears to possess great

knowledge of the world. Madame A and

her eldest son also paid us a visit : she is a native
of Bourdeaux, and has evidently a great pre-
dilection for her own country, though she is keep-
ing up a round of gaiety here, having her weekly
soirees, and her box at the opera ; but I am not
astonished ; there is something so endearing and
sweet in one's native land, especially where
equal rights prevail, and prejudice does not disse-
minate her baneful influence. I wrote to my dear
Sister H , but did not send the letter to-
day. M went to synagogue. Mr. A

F 2

68 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

was there, and a very respectable number of
attendants. We amused ourselves with reading
" Corinne" in the evening, and Galignani, which
contains all the news from England for the six
preceding days.

Saturday evening, December 29. Nice. — At

eight this morning I accompanied M to the

synagogue, which we found an extremely pretty
building, and very neatly fitted up ; the prayers
were repeated in a most distinct manner, and
with much devotion. A person wearing the
Turkish Costume was called up. Mr. A in-
formed us that he was from Barbary, and an ex-
ceedingly learned and clever man, his writings
excelling, in his opinion, those of Shakspeare and
Voltaire.

Only two females were present, it not being the
custom here for ladies to attend, except on holi-
days. One addressed me in Italian, and wished
to give me every information. She said there
were about six families in the community who
could not maintain themselves, but there were
only three or four rich families among the
seventy or eighty.

Mrs. B , formerly Miss S , of London,

daughter of the late doctor, called on me :
she has been resident in this town about twelve
years, but does not appear to like the inhabitants.

NICE. 69

She informed me, that the column in honour of
the late king's visit to this town was erected by
our nation, every other body having displayed
some like testimony of loyalty. The Haham also
paid us a visit : he seems deeply concerned at the
oppression to which our community is subject ;
and thinks of leaving the place.

He appears a gentlemanly, well-instructed per-
son, and they speak of his son as an accomplished
teacher of Latin and Italian. We returned Ma-
dame A 's call, after which Monsieur accom-
panied us in a pleasant walk.

Sunday, December 30. Nice. — Took a de-
lightful walk to the cemetery, the road to which
is a broad path up a steep mountain, planted on
each side with cypress, and various other trees
and shrubs. The aloes grow in great profusion
and luxury.

On the summit of the hill, many a leaf is dis-
tinguished by the name of some fair favourite
being marked on it. I gathered some plant like
the heliotrope in flower and fragrance. The daisy
and butter-cup are already in bloom, as well as
numberless heaths. As we were descending, we
met families, nicely dressed, walking up, with all
the enjoyment of a day of rest in their counte-
nances ; indeed, I never beheld a place where
the sabbath appeared to be kept more properly —

70 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

the shops closed, and the people in the peaceful
enjoyment of exercise and air, and neatly dressed.
We again engaged a box at the opera. The same
piece was performed as before, Gemma di Vergy.

Mr. A remained some time with us : his

lady was opposite in her own box. M went

to pay his respects.

Monday, December 31. Nice to St. Hemo.
Ten and a half Posies. — A delightful morning :
took leave of Nice at half -past ten o'clock. Mr.

A was in waiting as we passed his house to

bid us farewell. I took my last look of the de-
lightful promenade with admiration, though not
with regret, never considering beauty of country
a compensation for the want of liberality in its
government. Freedom of mind, and expansive
views of duty, these only can teach us to appre-
ciate properly, or enjoy consistently the blessings
of the Almighty.

We soon commenced ascending a steep and
rocky mountain, which was to continue for two
hours. I pitied the poor horses, which have to
complete a stage of six postes, or thirty miles,
and asked the postillion why they had not a poste
establishment on the summit of St. Aubert ? " Oh!
Us sont trop miserables ! " but all these rich olive-
trees, and terraces of vines, and orange-trees !
" Ah," said he, with a shrug, "Us sontpauvres gens!

NICE TO ST. REMO. 71

The views became grander, and more sublime
as we advanced. Never did I behold more ma-
jestic scenery. The sea breaks suddenly on the
view between the rent of an immense mountain,
covered on each side with trees and vineyards,
and the beholder remains lost in wonder at the
mingled works of nature and art. Marvellous is
it that the industry and science of man, great as
they are, could accomplish the design of piercing
a road through the side of a steep rock, wind-
ing up to its summit, the precipices often de-
scending in a perpendicular line down to the sea.
At every turn I trembled to think what would
become of us should the horses take a false step.
Wherever a spot on the mountain is capable of
cultivation, it is carefully supported by stone
walls disposed in rows one above the other, to
support the earth and its produce. But the
labour is sometimes destroyed by torrents of
rain, and vineyards, walls, trees, and flocks are
borne away by the mountain-cataracts and
storms. Provident nature presents abundance of
materials for repairs of roads ; and quarries of
stone and forests of trees are seen in quick succes-
sion. Glad to arrive in safety at Mentone, the
postillions good-temperedly brought us, after
their thirty miles' stage, some oranges of the
country, which were the sweetest we had tasted.

72 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

The passport was frequently demanded to-
day, and three times the formality of search in
these dominions was required. The same moun-
tainous country and sublime scenery continued
during the remainder of the day's journey, with
a sea-view throughout. From Ventimiglia to
this place the mountains were less precipitous,
but the road much neglected. In some parts we
had to ford torrents, which greatly needed
bridges : we saw one handsome suspension-
bridge to-day. For the last fifteen miles we
were lighted by the moon, its clear beams re-
flecting on the sea, like diamonds and sheets of
pure silver rolling towards the shore. The
brightest planets were sparkling around, and we
might truly exclaim, the sun gave light by day,
and the moon and stars by night : both shone
with a lustre I had never before beheld. We
thank the Almighty, who has allowed us to con-
template this glorious and resplendent scene, and
brought us hither in safety. Santo Remo is a
large old town, the streets steep and narrow, with
lofty houses on either side. Its trade is prin-
cipally in oil, oranges, and lemons ; the trees bear-
ing which so richly and gracefully ornament the
vicinity. We found accommodation at the Hotel
de la Poste. A room large enough for a dozen per-
sons was assigned to us. I was glad to find that

ST. REMO TO FINALE. 73

Ann's chamber was adjoining, and Armstrong's
not far off.

January 1, 1839, from San Remo to Finale. —
Another year has passed ! Oh ! may the forth-
coming be attended with the blessings we have
hitherto experienced, and may the Almighty
continue to protect us from whatever is harmful
or unholy ! May our time be employed in such a
manner as to merit thy protection, O Lord, and in
the pursuit of what may lead to our own true im-
provement and the benefit of our fellow-creatures !
Another difficult day's journey — mountains, pre-
cipices, and rugged roads ! We had to ford
several torrents, which in spring I should suppose
impassable. A new road is almost finished, on a
level with the sea. It is now in a state for foot-
passengers, but not yet for carriages. This will
be a great advantage to travellers. In order to
avoid the precipitous turnings in the mountain,
unprotected by a parapet, but presenting a preci-
pice shelving down to the sea many hundred feet
deep, and a narrow and rocky road, with terrific
rocks on the other side, we walked for about an
hour and a half, regardless of the wounds my feet
encountered from the sharp bulging flints. The
wind was also fierce and powerful, and we were
forcibly reminded of David's psalm, "I lift up mine
eyes unto the hills whence cometh my help. My

74 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

help is from the Lord, who made heaven and earth.
He will not suffer thy foot to slip, neither will thy
keeper slumber." How forcibly was the truth
presented to us! It is in viewing the wonders of
nature that we can best admire that Omnipotent
power, who alone guides us in the proper path.
We found some oranges very refreshing in the
carriage. Numbers of priests and students were
enjoying the fesfa, promenading in the environs
of the different towns through which we passed.
There were also groups of nicely-dressed females,
whose costume, a white thin scarf, descending
over the head to the waist, was very becoming.
Marble begins to display itself in the ornaments
round the doors of houses, &c. and though the
streets of most of the towns we passed through
were extremely narrow, still the shops of some
seemed well supplied, and the people were re-
spectably attired. How lovely again the moon
appeared rising from the sea, while the stars dif-
fused a more than usual brilliancy — they seemed
to console us for the fatigue and dread we had
suffered in walking up and down this difficult and
rugged mountain ! Arrived at forty-five minutes
past six, and set off from San Remo at seven

o'clock. M calls me a little Napoleon ! What

an honour ! and yet I would not be so ambitious.
Wednesday, January 2. Finale to Genoa —

FINALE TO GENOA. 75

Left at eight. The weather still propitious. On
leaving this town we passed through a gallery
pierced in the rock. The road much improved
along the seashore ; the ascents being protected
by parapets, while plantations of pine intermixed
with myrtles, olives, and a variety of shrubs,
covered the hills up to the summit, the boundary-
line to which is a chain of snowy Alps. When-
ever the road became too steep for our nerves,
we took advantage of the bright and clear
atmosphere, and found the exercise of walking
extremely beneficial. The majestic aloes, border-
ing the brows of mountains, and the different
species of weeping plants and heath, ornamenting
the banks, often created the wish to transfer some
to our friends at home. Again we had to ford
several torrents : the women washing in the
streams and rivulets, with divers-coloured hand-
kerchiefs loosely tied under the chin, had a most
picturesque appearance. As we passed through
forests of olive-trees, the women and children
collecting the fallen fruit in baskets, was an
equally pleasing sight. In several of the towns
the men were engaged in the manufacture of
white pottery ; while women and children, sitting
on the shore, or outside their doors, were making
fishermen's nets, or turning the wheel for twine.
At Voltri ship and boat-building form the chief

76 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

employment. We passed under three galleries
pierced through the rock, during this day's
journey, and the scenery was the most picturesque
and beautiful I recollect ever to have seen, while
it was happily unattended with any dread, the
roads being wider and better protected by walls.
As we wound round the mountains, the prospect
of the different bays and several towns, at the
foot of the Apennines,

" With the blue above and the blue beneath,"
formed an ever-diversified and moving panorama.
Genoa, with its superb palaces was long in sight.
In its immediate environs, orange-groves and
alcoves of vine, gracefully supported by marble
columns, ornamented the terraces and gardens of
the country-houses.

On entering the town we found signs of the
busy spirit of improvement. This was chiefly
evident in the enlargement of one of the principal
streets, the alteration of which can only be effected
at very considerable expense. The Prince of
Oldenburgh and family, who left Nice the evening
before we started, were just about to embark for
Leghorn in the steam-boat, which leaves at six
this evening, and is expected to arrive at six
o'clock to-morrow morning. They have four
carriages, and were detained on the road for
horses yesterday. At half-past four we were set

GENOA. 77

down at the Hdtel de Quatre Nations, and had the
pleasure of meeting with superb apartments,
with a view of the port, light-house, and shipping.
Armstrong immediately went to the post to

inquire for letters. There was one from H ,

imparting a more favourable account of the

health of our dear brother B , who was

improving, though slowly.

Thursday, January 3. Genoa. Hdtel de Quatre
Nations. — We are delighted with our rooms ; they
command a fine view of the most characteristic
features of the city, are lofty, and exhibit along
the surface of the domed ceilings, a series of well-
painted mythological fables. A massive gilt cor-
nice, and walls en-suite. A chamber furnished
with yellow satin damask, the saloon with light
blue, and a marble balcony admitting us to the
free enjoyment of the air and enlivening pros-
pect, are some of the many luxuries which these
elegant apartments afford. The only inconve-
niences are those of descending seventy-eight
stone stairs every time we go out, and so direct
an exposure to the powerful rays of the sun,
that we are compelled, while writing, to have
the curtains drawn. Prince and Princess Old-
enburgh, who left this hotel yesterday evening in
a steam-boat for Leghorn, returned this morning
at two o'clock, and have again set off by land. It

78 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

was stormy, and something is stated to have hap-
pened to the boiler, — no very pleasant circum-
stance with a retinue of four carriages.

We dined at a restaurateur's of our own com-
munity ; but though everything was clean and
good, the distance, and a long covered narrow
street, consisting of blacksmiths' shops, through
which we had to pass, made us prefer having
our dinners at the hotel.

In the evening we went to the principal thea-
tre, Carlo Felici, a handsome building, with a
richly ornamented fa9ade of white marble
columns, and five tiers of boxes. A new lyric
tragedy, called Don Gazzia, was performed. The
prima donna had a fine powerful voice and com-
manding person, and the stage and decorations
were on a grand scale. Two ballets were also
presented, one of which was Elisabetto al Castello
dl Kenelworth. The house was not thronged.
Some of the ladies went in sedan-chairs, attended
by two footmen in livery, besides the chair-men ;
but the carriages were not very numerous. In
one of the upper boxes some gentlemen were
seated at a card-table, engaged apparently at
whist. They had wax lights, and seemed as
much at their ease as in their own drawing-rooms.
Conversation and animated gestures were general,
and we were led to conclude that warm climates

GENOA. 79

must have a great effect on the mind, silence or
inaction being of such rare occurrence. The
mezsaro, a long piece of muslin worn over the
heads of the Genoese ladies, is extremely be-
coming. The more ordinary class wear printed
cotton of large pattern; in other respects the
wealthier are not distinguished by any particular
costume, but wear what fancy dictates, as in
other countries. Fish, fruit, and vegetables are
very plentiful here. The John-dory, here called
St. Pierre, is plentiful and much esteemed.

Friday, January 4. Genoa. — Went to the Pa-
lazzo Doria. We could only see the garden to-
day, but were promised a view of the palace on
Sunday. The family reside in Rome. It is to be
regretted that so magnificent a residence should
be uninhabited. The situation is charming, being
opposite the bay, and though the garden is too
precise to please, the marble terraces and fresco
paintings richly compensate for the want of more
uatural beauty. On going away the gardener
presented me with a bouquet, choice and fragrant.
On our return we looked in at the church of the
Annunciata, rich in white and red marble columns.
Mass was being performed, and several persons
were at their devotions. The master of our hotel
showed us several other suites of apartments, some
with rich damask tapestry, others with ancient

80 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Chinese paintings on satin, formerly belonging to
the doge. We preferred our own, as being more
lively and airy.

Saturday, 5th January, 1839. Genoa. — It re-
quired some resolution to be ready this morning

to accompany M to synagogue, it being on

the other side of the Mole, and he always desirous
of arriving at the commencement of the service,
which we had the satisfaction of doing. There
were only four ladies present besides myself, but
the assemblage of gentlemen was respectable,

both as to number and appearance. Mr. M ,

consul and charge' d'affaires for Morocco, is one

of the principal members ; also a Mr. A :

they both called at our hotel, but we were out.
We returned by way of the Mole, which is a work
between two walls, supported by arches, with
streets beneath. It extends round the har-
bour, and commands a busy scene and salu-
brious air. We were amused with watching
the unlading of the corn and other goods, the
number of persons employed, and the general in-
dustry of the people. Many of them work ex-
tremely hard, carrying immense weights on the
head or back. From their loud mode of talking
one imagines them to be quarrelling. We went in
the evening to the theatre St. Augustin, which
was very well attended, and is a good-sized house

GENOA. 81

but the entrance is bad, and it is not nicely kept
Most of the boxes and pit were full. The Italians
are as fond of theatres as their neighbours, the
French. The population of Genoa comprises
about one hundred thousand, in which only sixty
or seventy families belong to our community.

Sunday, Qth January. Genoa. — We engaged a
m let-de-place, and visited some of the principal
palaces. The. city abounds in the riches of
architecture, painting, and sculpture ; and as
admission into the noblest mansions is readily
allowed, it would be unpardonable for a stranger
not to visit them, though the number of stone
stairs (seventy-eight) made it rather fatiguing
to ascend. Palais Brignole, Rue Neuve, is one
of the most superb for its marble staircase and
columns, and possesses one of the choicest collec-
tions of pictures in Genoa. A beautiful full-
length painting, by Vandyke, of La Marquise de
Brignole ; the marquis, by the same artist, in
Spanish costume, and Judith, with the head of
Holofernes, by Paul Veronese, are remarkably
fine works. The four rooms representing the
seasons, and several other apartments are filled
with rare paintings, busts, and other magnificent
curiosities. We next visited Palais Serra ; the
decorations of the principal salle are the most
magnificent I ever beheld. The walls are de-

G

82 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

corated to imitate lapis lazuli ; gold and marble
columns support a beautifully painted octagon
ceiling, while immense looking-glasses, alter-
nating with the pillars, four bas reliefs over the
doors and a mosaic pavement of the finest marbles,
complete the ornaments of this splendid saloon,
assuredly one of the most beautiful in Italy, and
costing a fortune in its construction. We next
proceeded to the Palais Ditrazzo, Hue Balbi ; the
marble columns, statues, beautiful staircase, and
fresco walls of which strike the visitor with
wonder. The several rooms are filled with paint-
ings by the old masters of highest fame. Our
next and last visit for the day was to Palais du
Prince d'Oria Panfili. As it was situated beyond
the gate of St. Thomas we had sufficient exercise
to-day, but our gratification in witnessing so
many astonishing works of art overcame every
feeling of fatigue. There we saw the armour,
chair, and sword of Charles V. of Spain, and had
the honour of holding the formidable weapon in
our hands. The trophies were presented by the
Pope to Andrea d'Oria, the restorer of liberty to
his country. No finer view of the gulf, the city,
and surrounding Alps, can be obtained than from
the window of this palace. The marble terraces
and fountains in the garden are refreshed by the
sea-breezes, and derive a romantic beauty from

GENOA. 83

the delicious shades of cypress and orange-trees.
This residence has been honoured by the sojourn
of Buonaparte and 'other royal personages. The
prince's secretary was extremely polite, showing
us all the objects rendered interesting by history,
the fine arts, talent, and past ages.

Numbers of well-dressed persons throng the
streets in the afternoon, and on account of the
festa this day the city was particularly gay. Large
cakes and confectionery of great variety were on
sale. The clergy and military form a great por-
tion of the population. We again attended the
performance of Don Gazzia at the opera, where
we obtained a box on the first tier, an excellent
situation, for twenty-five francs besides entrance.
Sunday is the best night.

Monday, January 7. I made some purchases
of silver flowers, a velvet dress, &c., and the valet-
de-place procured an order for our again visiting
the Conservatoire de Fraschini, founded in 1790, by
Dominico Freschi, a Genoese nobleman, for the
support of orphan females, who learn a trade and
receive a marriage-portion in case of their form-
ing an alliance with the sanction of the patrons.
The most beautiful artificial flowers are manu-
factured by the inmates of this establishment, and
embroidery in muslin and cambric forms another
part of their employment. As we purchased some
G 2

84 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

on our former visit, we did the same on this,
reflecting with gratitude that the Almighty had
graciously permitted us to survive, and, after so
long a period, revisit this admirable establish-
ment in health and comfort. There are two hun-
dred girls supported, besides matrons, nurses,
cooks, &c. A handsome chapel attracted our
attention, and after passing the lower corridor, we
entered the flower-rooms, where cases of flowers,
fruit and needlework are kept on show for sale.
A priest, and some of the matrons and young wo-
men, all neatly dressed in the same style, attended
us. Our purchases having been arranged, we
were shown the different dormitories, every apart-
ment being conspicuous for cleanliness and order.
On the opposite side of the square is a building
appropriated to the infirmary, to which two phy-
sicians are attached. The brightness of the coppers
in the kitchen corresponded with the nicety of the
stone floors and wooden dressers. The tables were
laid in the dining-room, and a pint glass-decan-
ter of wine was placed for each person, at the
side of the knife, fork, spoon, and plate. They
have three meals a day. The breakfast is but
spare, merely bread and water, but the dinner
consists of soup, meat, vegetables, &c., and in the
evening they have soup, bread, and vegetables.
There is a nice garden and small farm attached ;

GENOA. 85

and they grind their own flour, make their bread,
wine, and oil : in fact, the institution is a little
town in itself, governed with admirable order and
cleanliness. Our next visit was to Palais Palla-
vicini, dit delle Peschiere, a country residence of
the Marquis Pallavicini : the admirable order and
taste of the garden, aided by numbers of foun-
tains, grottoes, statues, and pebbled pavement,
forming various devices, display a combination of
art, industry, and good taste. The housekeeper
presented me with a choice bouquet ; and the
gardener displayed a variety of camellias, pine-
apple, pepper, tea, and coffee-plants ; orange,
lemon, and citron-trees, all kept and preserved
with the strictest care. The designs of the build-
ing were by Galeas Alessi, one of the best archi-
tects of Genoa, and of the school of Michael
Angelo.

Tuesday, January 8. Hotel de Quatre Nations.

—Walked with M round the walls to the

synagogue. This edifice has been erected one hun-
dred and eighteen years, and one of its founders
was a Mr. Mendes. There are many poor here,
as elsewhere. A young man from Tunis asked
assistance ; the rabbi said he had arrived about
three days ago : he had a fearfully emaciated look,
but his figure and countenance were superior ;
and upon receiving a trifle he eagerly seized

86 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

M 's hand and mine and kissed them. Again

we observed the busy scene in the port ; boats of
corn being unladen, the men standing on it with
their bare feet. A beautiful new street, to be
called Alberto Felice, is being constructed. The
houses will be of immense magnitude, the large
blocks of plaster and stone pilasters, which form'
their walls, giving proof already of their intended
magnificence. This, and the beautiful new pro-
menade, with hedges of laurestinus and roses
encircling the fountains, will be an immense
improvement and advantage to the inhabitants,
and form a contrast to the narrow ancient streets
impassable to carriages. Genoa, among its other
splendid objects attracting notice, may hope soon
to boast of equipages.

Wednesday, January 9. Genoa to Chiavari.—
At nine o'clock we took leave of the Hotel de
Quatre Nations, where we had passed a delight-
fully happy week, finding great civility from the
host and attendants. In passing through the
streets of Genoa, I could but re-admire the mag-
nificent palaces, and, perhaps, form a wish to see
them again : it would not be amiss, in that case,
to engage un etage in one of them, as it is no un-
common thing for a part or the whole of some of
them to be let ; the proprietors often possessing
others at Rome, Milan, or some other city.

CHIAVARI TO LA SPEZIA. 87

A delightful morning cast a brilliancy on the
mountains, orange-groves, and sea, by the side of
which, but considerably above it, ran our preci-
pitous path. The road was in the best order, and
not alarmingly steep, but winding round the
sides of the mountains, sometimes down to the
sea-shore. We passed several villages bordering
the bays, and hills crowned with country-houses ;
displaying a rich population, supported by the
fruits of the surrounding fields, well and indus-
triously cultivated. The marble and stone in the
environs present many facilities for building and
decoration. We passed under three galleries cut
through the rock, and bulging into the sea. In
descending into Rapello and Chiavari the leaders
were sent back. Arrived at the Hotel de la Paste
a quarter before four o'clock — strolled down the
arcade, where the shops are situated, and walked
into a handsome church in the place.

Thursday, January 10. Chiavari to La Spezia.
— The night was stormy — shutters blowing back-
wards and forwards, to the great risk of the
windows and the certain interruption of rest,
which was rather annoying, as we had ordered the
horses at six o'clock, by which time we were in
the carriage. The moon and stars were still dif-
fusing their placid light around, and reflecting
their silvery brightness in the water. We had to

88 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

cross a bridge over a torrent called the Lavagna.
For hal£-an-hour the road continued broad and
level, lined by two rows of trees, succeeded by a
bank of beautiful aloes close to the sea. Again the
mountains reared their majestic heads, but as the
road was not generally so precipitous they lost
somewhat of their power to terrify. When the
high wind made the windows tremble, we judged
it prudent to descend. On gaining the summit,
two beautiful bays — the towns of Chiavari and
Sestri on their borders ; mountains above, with
monasteries and campanelli, presented a delight-
ful coup-d'oei?.

The Brocco and Borghetto mountains appeared
as formidable and sternly grand as ever. We
observed some new houses, and traces of cultiva-
tion wherever human industry could possibly be
brought into exercise. The shallow soil, sup-
ported by stone walls, shelving up immense
heights, appeared almost to defy the efforts of
either ingenuity or toil. Sometimes those ardu-
ous labours are rendered unavailing by over-
powering gales, when the vines, the walls, and
the soil are at once precipitated into the deep
abyss. Icicles and ice shining on the rocks were
visible to-day more frequently than hitherto. In
descending into this town, we allowed the leaders
again to be taken off. Arrived at La Spezia at
four o'clock.

LA SPEZIA TO CARRARA. 89

The postillions drove to I' Hotel cV Unirers in-
stead of la Croix de Matte, the one we had formerly
put up at, without our observing it until the
luggage was taken off. This was a source of some

vexation to M , who always prefers going to

the same. However they did their possible to
make us comfortable. We walked on the pro-
menade down the pier, and observed the beautiful
and spacious pool, and the new public gardens,
with rows of fruit-trees and shrubs.

Friday, January 1L. La Spezia to Carrara. —
I purchased a small hat of straw, a part of the
costume of the country. There is something
gratifying in these mementoes of a journey, re-
minding us of the characteristics of different
countries. The grand objects of nature readily
implant their images in the mind, but those of
art are more easily forgotten, proving thereby
their comparative insignificance.

We were rather amused with the volubility of
our last waiter ; among other circumstances he
recounted, was that of a lady and gentleman
being at the hotel who were but recently united
in the holy state of marriage, but in whose ages
and appearance there was a remarkable disparity.
The lady was about eighteen years old, and ex-
tremely diminutive ; the gentleman, nearly sixty
and very tall. At nine o'clock, we pursued our

90 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

journey to Carrara, where we arrived about half-
past one. The accommodation at the hotel was
very indifferent ; large rooms, bat locks that
would not act, and which obliged us to sit in a
draught, whereby I increased my cough. The valet-
de-place immediately offered his services, of which
we availed ourselves, and repaired for a couple of
hours to the studii of various sculptors, among
whom the best is Vincenzo Borranni. We also
walked into the church, a handsome building, rich
in marble, and possessing some paintings. But
there is a general want of neatness and finish in
the edifices though materials are so abundantly at
hand.

Saturday, January 12. Carrara. — Soon after
breakfast we were visited by an elderly gentleman
and his two nephews ; the first having been a

correspondent of M 's late father, who carried

on considerable business with this town in marble.
It was as interesting as affecting to hear a conver-
sation marked by respect and friendship on the
one hand, and on the other by a true feeling of
filial affection towards the memory and character
of a person long ago deceased, but fresh and vivid,
in the mind of the son and the friend. A letter in
his handwriting was produced and read by

M with a degree of admiration, which the

writing and language fully justified. That which

CARRARA TO LEGHORN. 91

in this instance was valuable, time seemed re-
luctant to efface. Would it were always so !

We employed the day in viewing works of art,
and in visiting the Musee, an establishment for the
instruction of youth in the arts and sciences. It is
supported by the government. There are at
present about two hundred pupils, among whom
is one young man, now about eighteen, who has
succeeded in obtaining several prizes for the best
drawings and designs. His talent manifested
itself at an early age, his first prize having been
awarded at nine years old. We observed two
children amusing themselves in the street, one
with a piece of marble resembling a little block,
the other measuring it with a paper compass.
Thus does imitation steal into the infant mind, and
become matured with age either for good or evil.
The day has been extremely hot ; the sun setting
between the mountains, diffusing its golden tints,
and sinking below the horizon in glowing majesty-

Sunday, January 13. Carrara fo Leghorn. —
M— - wishing to pass the anniversary of his
father's death at Leghorn, we arose this morning
at the early hour of two ; and were en route by a
quarter-past four, the horses having been ordered
at three. To our great annoyance, we had to wait
their arrival from Massa more than an hour. In-
quiry or reproof as to this neglect was futile : it

92 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

is better to bear patiently that which is incurable,
particularly in a foreign country, than with cho-
leric dispositions. However, the men proved care-
ful drivers, and the rich plains of Tuscany had
sufficient beauty, even at this season, to inspire
us with gratitude and satisfaction ; for though
the vines and elms were divested of their foliage,
still their graceful forms, with their promised
worth, and the green flax and young wheat spring-
ing up between gave birth to a thousand sweet
associations. Handsome country-seats embel-
lished the hills, with woods of olives, thickly
planted up to the summits. The roads in excellent
order, broad, and protected by parapets. It is
now the season for pruning the vine and gathering
the olives. The sun's genial warmth induces the
people to be much out of the house ; they not only
sit on the road-side at work, but dress their hair
out of doors : it is often a Sunday's pastime to
have the head of one young woman in the lap of
another, arranging the hair, &c. We breakfasted
at an excellent hotel, at Lucca, the Pelican, and
then pursued our route through a continued rich
plain.

Leghorn presents itself to view long before
the traveller arrives there. Several canals aid
the communication of the city with the neigh-
bouring districts, and mules and donkeys are

LEGHORN. 93

everywhere seen laden with barrels of oil or
wine, &c., which articles form the principal
branches of commerce between this and Lucca.
We arrived at the Locanda San Marco at half-
past three. M proceeded instantly to syna-
gogue to offer his prayers in memory of his de-
ceased parent. This procured us the early

visit of Mr. L M , who came about

seven to the hotel. The host, Mr. Thompson,
also came to pay his devoirs : he stated that Leg-
horn had suffered materially by the cholera, but
more by the fear excited than by its actual
ravages. The steamboats bring many visitors,
but commerce had declined, though at this
moment there was a great deal doing in corn,
and cargoes of that article were now ready and
waiting the arrival of vessels, which have been
engaged from England to export it.

Monday, January 14. Leghorn. — I availed
myself of a breakfast sola, to indulge until a late
hour for the benefit of repose, finding my cold
rather troublesome. I was honoured with visitors
before I had commenced my toilette ; Madame
J and Mr. P were announced : it de-
volved on M to keep up a conversation until

I could make my appearance. Eleven years had
effected but slight alteration to the prejudice of
either father or daughter-in-law. His son was

94 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

confined with the gout ; thus every country is
subject to diseases. I had just commenced writing
to my dear sister A , when another gentle-
man was introduced, a Mr. B ; he con-
tinued for nearly an hour in conversation, describ-
ing the situation of our brethren in this city.
Many improvements have been effected in the
buildings and streets, and by the general enlarge-
ment of the town, by throwing back the walls
and gates. He confirmed our opinion, that com-
merce was not so flourishing at the present junc-
ture ; for property which formerly was appro-
priated to foreign enterprise, now became in-
vested in these new buildings, thereby confining
the circulation and returns.

Tuesday, January 15. Leghorn, Locanda San
Marco. — Finding myself better, I accompanied

my dear M in an open carriage to pay visits ;

among the rest was one to Count and Countess

L , who have a magnificent residence in Via

Nuova. This gentleman purchased, not long
ago, some land, which was discovered to pos-
sess valuable chemical properties ; he now em-
ploys about one thousand persons on the estate,
and sells the article at a great profit.

They say he has amassed a large fortune ; cer-
tainly his house is most splendidly decorated
with marbles, paintings, antiquities, and elegan-

LEGHORN TO MASS A. 9o

cies of every description. The Grand Duke has
conferred upon him the title of count, in addition
to that of chevalier, which he previously pos-
sessed ; and his eldest daughter, a handsome
young lady, is married to a baron. The poor man
who sold the estate committed suicide, broken-
hearted and distracted, at having sacrificed for
a comparative trifle that which was soon after
proved to be of so much value. The popu-
lation of Leghorn amounts to about seventy thou-
sand, from seven to eight thousand of which are
of our community. The character of the people
seems similar to that of the Genoese ; they delight
in gesticulation and clamour, and are cheerful
and industrious. The men spread out the corn
with their feet, and several other disgusting
habits prevail while they are loading the sacks,
which makes one reflect that even bread, the
staff of life, is not the nicest article of food.

Wednesday, January 16. Leghorn to Massa. —
In consequence of not having completed our pur-
chases at Carrara, we have resolved to return.
M— - having a severe head-ache, I walked out
attended by Armstrong before breakfast, to see
some collections of marble and alabaster, and pur-
chased a small model of the leaning tower of Pisa.

I found on my return M busy answering

notes, and Mr. L. M waiting to say farewell.

96 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

We left Leghorn at eleven, after calling to see the
handsome synagogue, which is about two hun-
dred and fifty years old. A numerous throng of
people stood gazing at the carriage until we again

drove off. The day being fine, M soon found

himself restored by exercise in the pure atmo-
sphere. The detention for examining the pass-
port at the different confines is somewhat tedious,
in Tuscany, Lucca, and Modena, and we did not
reach the summit of Montramedo until dusk.
Whatever dread some caverns in the rocks might
have created, the soft and glittering stars speedily
dissipated. The country-people conducting the
yoked oxen with loads of dried leaves and prun-
ings of vines and elms, tranquilly passing to
their night's rest after the labours of the day,
.were all we encountered on the mountain, and at
six o'clock we were seated at the very comfort-
able fireside of Fra^ois Esmecol, Hotel de Quatre
Nations, Massa.

We recognised several names in the visitor's
book, and many were the eulogies justly passed
on the civility and cleanliness of this establish-
ment.

Thursday, January 17. Massa. — We had a
small carriage with a pair of post-horses to take
us to Carrara, about one poste, along a rough and
mountainous path. This is the feast of St.

MASSA TO FLORENCE. 97

Antonio, and all the horses in the district were
being taken to receive their annual blessing from
the saint. On approaching the town we were
saluted by our Friday's guide, who again accom-
panied us to the various studios; at several M

made purchases, and gave an order for our arms
to be executed in basso-relievo. The sculptors
are employed at this place in supplying marble
columns, friezes, and other decorations for a new
royal palace, which is in progress of erection at
St. Petersburgh, in place of that burnt last
year.

There were many articles very tempting : works

of art are dangerous and seductive ; M says

I shall ruin him by this day's purchase. The
artists are eager to dispose of their works, and do
not appear to be surrounded by great luxuries.
It is no small satisfaction to be enabled to en-
courage industry, securing at the same time the
gratification of one's own taste. Returned from

Carrara at six o'clock. A Mr. D , an artist

of this town, called on us, and stated that he had
just sent a large vase to England, an order for the
Queen, and offered his services.

Friday, January 18. Massa to Florence. —
We were again detained half an hour for the
horses, having ordered them at four o'clock, at
which early hour we were in readiness, and set off

H

98 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

at half-past. Our carriage-lamps burnt well, and
numbers of stars illumined the firmament.

The sound of church-bells falls solemnly on the
ear, when the busy world is sunk in slumber.
How beautiful it is to watch the advance of
dawn, the first break of light along the horizon,
the mild waning of the stars ; and the peasant
commencing the early toils of the day ! The
smiling valleys of Tuscany, even when the trees
are bereft of their foliage, exhibit the bounty of
nature, and the industry of the human race.
Small squares of land, divided by trees supporting
festoons of vine, seem like so many sets of qua-
diilles marked out on green carpets of flax, hemp,
and wheat. The ground is neatly trenched, and
readily lets off the water from the Apennines,
forming streams on each side the road. We
breakfasted at Lucca, and found the meal
extremely salutary after a very cold morning's
drive, the frost and ice in many parts exhibiting
winter under a sterner aspect than I had supposed
he would assume in the plains of Italy. At
Pistoja an extra horse was taken for the ascent of
the mountains. We passed many villages and
towns, some of which hang beetling on the brow
of lofty hills. The female peasantry near Florence
wear unbecoming black beaver hats, more proper
for their husbands, the head-dress of some, how-

FLORENCE. 99

ever, was a scarlet cloth cap, with a blue tassel
a la Grecque, others had merely their hair neatly
dressed, and were sitting outside their doors,
plaiting straw, spinning, or turning the wheel.
The employment of the people is a great bless-
ing. Wherever industry is to be found, cheer-
fulness, health, and good temper are generally
the accompaniments. The postes seem much
longer in this part of the country than heretofore,
and we were later than we expected and than our
informant led us to believe. We at length, how-
ever, thanks to the Almighty, reached Florence in
safety, and after renewed examinations of the pass-
ports, drove to the Hdtel Schneider. The apart-
ments near the river are extremely cold, but after
seeing rooms on the other side of the house, we
remain in the first shown to us, neither being well
adapted to a cold season. Some chambers are
even without fire-places, and their lofty stone
walls and stone floorings little agree with our ideas
of comfort. Indeed, we had promised ourselves a
delightful week's sojourn at this celebrated hotel,
but either the house or the climate we think
must be altered. Poor Mr. Schneider himself is
no more. How glaringly manifest, wherever we
go, are the ravages of time ! Most travellers are
gone to Rome, the centre of attraction for the
Carnival.

H 2

100 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Saturday, January 19. Florence. — M went

to synagogue, the weather was extremely cold,
and we suffered in the house far more than in
our comfortable English home. I cough and
sneeze in consequence. We had the gratification
of receiving several letters from our friends, with
the pleasing intelligence of our dear brother

B 's gradual improvement. My sister A

is also better, but poor L has not recovered

her voice. May the Almighty grant them all a
speedy and perfect restoration ! The north side
of the Arno is rendered warm and salubrious by
the reflection of the southern sun, and it is ac-
cordingly greatly frequented by promenaders of
every class. I should advise any one subject to
cough or pulmonary complaint by all means to
avoid the northern aspect in winter.

We walked into the church of 8. Maria del
Fiore, which Michael Angelo called Sua sposa.
It is a spacious edifice, and was commenced
in the thirteenth century. The cupola is remark-
able for its height, and for being covered with
various coloured marbles. The interior was
painted by Vasari and Zucchero, and the pave-
ment, formed of different-coloured marbles, is
extremely beautiful. 8. Giovanni, or the Bap-
tistry, has three bronze doors in superb basso-
relievo, one by Andrea Pisano, the other two by

FLORENCE. 101

Lorenzo Ghiberto, the subjects are from the Old
Testament, and so admirably executed that
Michael Angelo said they were fit for the gates of
paradise.

Sunday, January 20. Florence. — One degree
warmer to-day, the thermometer in our chamber

at forty-four. A Mr. P paid us a visit. He

gave us a gratifying account of the Tuscan go-
vernment, of the liberal disposition of the Grand-
duke towards all creeds, and the satisfactory situa-
tion of our brethren in this city. The number
amounts to about three thousand, of whom several
are extremely well off, and keep their carriages
and country-houses. No profession, however, is
open to them except that of medicine. Such re-
strictions must necessarily have a tendency to
confine the mind ; but if under these disadvan-
tages, the sublime desire of pleasing Him to whom
the most powerful must bend, be never lost sight
of, and our actions be organized and regulated
accordingly, the view is no longer limited, but
the spirit frees itself by a bold effort, from
the shackles imposed by mistaken zeal or selfish
policy. Commerce, the road to wealth, is yet
left open. Several houses have made a tobacco-
contract with the government for seven years-
The Grand-duke imagining that the offer of the
contractors might prove inimical to their interest,

102 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

inquired whether they wished to reconsider it.
They, with submission, thanked him, but kept to
their proposal, and it proved sufficiently advan-
tageous in its result. This was alike honourable
and generous to both parties. We walked, and
passed the evening at the opera. The perform-
ance was Chiara di Eosemberghe and TIdolo del
Pegu.

Monday, January 21. Florence. — Weather
extremely cold and damp : my cold is so much
increased that we determined to leave Schneider's
Hotel, and have engaged rooms on the opposite
side of the Arno, at the Hotel de la Grande
Bretagne, excellently furnished, spacious and
warm. Naturally we felt reluctant to quit a
house at which we had first taken up our abode ;
but we found it at this season perceptibly cold
and damp ; and dare not longer risk our health.
In summer, doubtless, Schneider's Hotel would
be preferred. Our second visit to Santa Croce was
attended with renewed delight. Here are de-
posited the ashes of the most celebrated geniuses
of the land, and in beholding the statues and
busts of Dante, Alfieri, Michael Angelo, Gallileo,
Machiavelli, and others, where painting, sculp-
ture, and architecture, alike vie to attest their
merit, the mind rejoices at being allowed to
meditate among so many relics of worth, and

FLORENCE. 103

feels, in its momentary excitement, to partake of
their noble impulses and exalted views. The
monument to the memory of Alfieri was executed
by Canova at the expense of the Countess of
Albany, and that in honour of Dante was the
work of Stephen Ricci, done in 1830. The
Niccolini chapel is rich in rare marbles and
exquisite paintings. The Four Sybils in the
angles, painted by Volterrano, appear like life.
Grotto-works adorn the convent. Santa Croce
may truly be styled a sacred depository of the
combined talent of ages long gone by, but whose
power still operates to adorn and exalt human
nature. In every turning of a street or square
the lover of the arts may be gratified in this city ;
columns, statues, campanilli, churches, palaces
command and secure attention. I found myself
towards evening greatly indisposed.

Tuesday, January 22. Florence. — This morning
I feel much the same, but with the kind attention

of my dear M , a warm suite of apartments,

and keeping at home to-day, I hope soon to be
perfectly well. The sky has all the appearance
of that of England, when full of wintry vapour.
Letter-writing and reading, with the purchase of
a black dress for the Duchess of Wurtemberg, and

a Leghorn hat, filled up the morning, till M

went out to dinner. He returned early, and we

104 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

employed the evening in reading and writing. I
find silks and millinery extremely expensive here,
perhaps strangers are imposed on. We had
taken tickets for a very select concert, but did not
go, on account of my health. It is more difficult
I think to get rid of a cold here than in England.
January 23. Hotel de Grande Bretagne.
Florence. — A oUill and rainy day: my cold is rather
better, but I prudently keep within. I have little
for my journal to-day. M went out for exer-
cise about two o'clock, dined at three, and then
went to the Cafe S. Martina, to read Galignani.
In the mean time I commenced a letter to my

dear sister J , and could not help expressing

how deeply I felt the affectionate attentions
which soothed my hours of indisposition. My
table is graced by a beautiful bouquet, presented
to me by my dear M . Would I could trans-
port some of the delicious flowers sold in every
street through which we pass, to our dear friend
and parent ! It is the custom here to place straw
under the carpets, I suppose in order to prevent
the stone floors from injuring them, and also to
render them warmer and softer to the feet. I
observed, in the Life of Michael Angelo Buona-
rotti, which formed this evening's amusement,
that the arts and literature flourished most con-
spicuously about the same epochs in different

FLORENCE. 105

countries. An interesting anecdote is related of
Giotto, an eminent artist of the twelfth century :
he was a shepherd boy, and being observed by
Cimabue, while tracing the figure of a lamb on a
piece of stone, the latter was so struck with the
perfection of the attempt, that he immediately
engaged him in the study of painting, which he
prosecuted with such success that his works
became models for other artists, and ornaments
to his country.

Thursday, January 24. Florence. — We had
a close carriage in order to visit the several
celebrated churches of this city. Among the
more remarkable of these edifices are the San
Lorenzo, and 8. Maria de Nouvelle, commenced
in the year 1221, under the direction of the
Campi, two Dominican brothers. They contain
paintings of Cimabue, Giotto, and other highly
esteemed masters of the early schools.

Surrounded by such objects the poet sang :

" Look around !

And know that where we stand, stood oft and long,
Oft till the day had gone, Raphael himself,
He and his haughty rival : — patiently,
Humbly, to learn of those who came before,
To steal a spark from their authentic fire, —
Theirs who first broke the universal gloom, —
Sons of the morning,"

We also revisited the convent of Dominican
monks, who have a fine establishment for drugs,

106 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

chemistry, perfumery, and liqueurs. Being
tempted by the celebrity of this manufactory, as
well as by the admirable order and nicety of the
different objects, we purchased some perfumery
and chocolate. The friar who served us was re-
markably mild and civil in his manner. We also
rode round the public gardens, which are well
planted with trees and shrubs. A casino and
country houses vary the scene, bounded by the
Apennines on either side, with the Arno beneath.

This river in many parts is extremely shallow ;
a handsome suspension-bridge is constructed
over it, but the curious old stone bridge, with
shops above, and a subterranean passage leading
from the Pitti Library to the Lorenzo Chapel, is
one of the most remarkable objects in Florence.
It somewhat reminded us of the Rialto at
Venice, though not so handsome. We made a
stop at the Cafe the refreshment at which, with
a sight of Galignani, containing news within six
days from London, was very acceptable. The
promenade on one side the Arno is thronged
from two till four with passengers on foot or
riding, and flower-girls, with choice bouquets,
thrust the flowers into the hands of people
passing, with or without their will.

Friday, January 25. Florence. Hotel Grande
Bretagne. — It is delightful to revisit objects

FLORENCE. 107

which, from their own merit and excellence,
have made a deep impression on the imagination.
Such is the Palazzo Pitti. The massive stone walls
of this magnificent structure are surrounded
with gay and smiling gardens, viewed in their
full extent from the large windows of the palace.
Its interior decorations are of the noblest kind,
the lofty ceilings being covered with frescoes by
the most renowned masters, and bordered with
splendid gilding ; while the walls are richly
hung with the works of Michael Angelo, Raphael,
Titian, Vandyke, Carlo Dolci, Salvator Rosa,
Bartholomew, Murillo, Leonardo da Vinci,
Andrea del Sarte, Perugini, &c.

There were tables of the most beautiful mosaic,
in oriental marbles and precious stones ; and a
cabinet of ebony inlaid with lapis-lazuli, agate,
&c., on which were painted historical subjects
drawn from the Old and New Testament, to
imitate mosaic ; while the opposite side being
let down, discovered carved figures of saints and
apostles in different shades of amber : then an
organ, secret drawers, writing implements, all of
the most costly materials and curious work-
manship. This was all shown to us with the
greatest politeness and attention, by the person
who had the keys. He then led us to the bath
of Carrara marble, contained in a room the walls

I

108 NOTES FROM A. JOURNAL.

of which are covered with fluted blue satin and
looking-glasses, each corner being occupied by a
beautiful statue of white marble. Canova's
Venus, and a Bather in bronze, were among the
objects which solicited our admiration.

Saturday, January 26. Florence. — This being a
rainy morning M deferred going to syna-
gogue till noon. Yesterday evening we went
to the Italian synagogue, which was also well
attended to-day. The ark is richly carved in
metal. Afterwards we visited the Gallery ; but
as it closes to the public at three, we had not
sufficient time to devote even to the corridors.
The hour glided away imperceptibly; and statues,
busts, and sarcophagi: and other noble ornaments
of the vestibule of the Medici and Roman em-
perors,— the two Wolves, the Horse, the Hercules,
and the Fawn, — served but to stimulate a pas-
sionate desire for long and patient observation.
A glance at a few paintings and the Medician
Venus was all that we could obtain, but we pro-
mise ourselves another day for the enjoyment of
this rich intellectual treat. Artists, allowed as
they are to sit and copy anything they choose, in
the midst of these warm and magnificent rooms,
enjoy an inestimable advantage. With such in-
citements the fine arts can never droop or decay.

The carriages of the Grand -duke passed us in

FLORENCE. 109

the streets ; two were drawn by six horses each,
with outriders and attendants at the sides of
the carriage. His Royal Highness is spoken of
as being extremely kind-hearted, and solicitous
for the happiness and contentment of his sub-
jects. But it is not always that our wishes
have free scope for action, though disposed to
the most laudable and advantageous views.

Lady Augusta and Mr. F left their cards.

Sunday, January 27. Florence. — The first day
of the Carnival. Everybody is out, but the wea-
ther is cold and windy. We drove in a close car-
riage to the gardens, but fearful of the snow on
the mountains, returned before three. Numerous
carriages thronged the roads, conspicuous among
which were the royal cortege, with six horses to
each carriage, followed by a guard of ten horse-
men, dressed in scarlet and gold, and that of the
Neapolitan minister, whose phaeton and four,
with postillions and attendants, presented a very
smart appearance. Many masks passed along the
crowded streets, lively and full of gambols, but
not unruly — perhaps kept in awe by the military
who guarded the avenues. We again attended the
opera. Salvini, with a repetition of the last ballet,
were performed ; the pit was crowded, and the
boxes tolerably so. Towards the middle of the
performance several masks entered the pit. I

110 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

imagine they were not of the most respectable
class of society, but their behaviour was quiet and
inoffensive. I do not think the dancing equal to
the French, although their tableaux are graceful
and elegant. There are many English here. The
absence of Lords Burgersh and Normanby is
extremely regretted.

Monday, January 28. Florence. — Having seen
an artist at the gallery copying a beautiful little
painting of Carlo Dolci, I obtained his address,
and agreed for the purchase of several other
copies from great masters — Poetry, Judith with
the head of Holofernes, and Murillo's Virgin and

Child. M being satisfied with the choice,

paid for them. I feel great satisfaction in this
acquisition, which I hope to behold in Park-lane
and East-cliff, as agreeable mementos of worth
and talent. We had purposed leaving this city
to-morrow morning, and had made our arrange-
ments accordingly ; but the increased desire of
revisiting the Gallery and the Medici Chapel
delayed our departure for a few days. I hope
we shall not be disappointed in obtaining apart-
ments at Rome, having deferred our visit to
this late epoch of the Carnival.

Tuesday, January 29. Florence. — The Royal
Academy is a noble institution, formed for the
benefit of young artists. There are different rooms

FLORENCE. Ill

of paintings, sculpture, casts, and drawings, and
the attendants are most civil and polite. A beau-
tiful picture by Carlo Dolci is remarkable for its
delicacy and perfection of colouring and form.
The manufactory of inlaid agate, jasper, and
precious marbles is peculiar to this establishment
and city, and exhibits conspicuously the power
of ingenuity and perseverance.

We saw a table being made which employs
eighteen men, and will take ten years to finish. It
is for the ducal palace. A small round table cost
£2,500. Several urns, capitals for the famous
Medici Chapel, were in hand. The person who
showed us the manufactory took us into the va-
rious rooms where the whole process of cutting
the stones, and forming them into various flowers,
fruits, and devices was exhibited ; nor would he
accept any remuneration for his trouble. Another
look into Santa Croce engaged our attention in
going home. We had a heavy shower of rain this
evening. M gave me a handsome bouquet.

Wednesday, January 30. Florence. — As we
remain a few days longer here, in order to see the
paintings and other works of art more leisurely,
we passed the forenoon at the Royal Gallery, one
of the most interesting places that can be visited.
The genius of sculpture and painting has enriched
it with its noblest efforts, while gems, medals,

112 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

bronzes, Etruscan vases, and Egyptian antiquities
fill up every vacant interval. The rooms lined
with portraits of the most celebrated masters,
painted by themselves, are particularly interesting.
Madame le Brun and Angelica Kauffman attracted

M 's fancy, and he engaged an artist, F. Vin-

censio Corsi, to copy them. We purchased two
others of the same artist. A heavy shower of
rain obliged us to take refuge in a cafe, where we
expected to find the English paper ; but a gentle-
man kept Galignani till he would have quite
worn out our patience, but for the amusement
afforded us by several persons, some of whom
offered for sale small alabaster and marble figures,
while others solicited our attention to specimens

of the most beautiful plants and flowers. M

purchased a large assortment of geraniums, and
some camellias. There is a grand ball this even-
ing at the Palazzo Pitti.

Thursday, January 31. Florence. — We passed
the whole forenoon at various picture-shops, and
made several purchases at S. Gaetano Botticelli's
and others. The price of the mosaic tables was
much too high — some, made to order, were shown
to us. They were small round tables, with a black
ground, a narrow border, and small centre-piece,
and three or four figures, either butterflies or birds,
formed of different-coloured stones. The price of

FLORENCE. 113

these tables was sixty or seventy pounds. We had
difficulty in finding the person with whom the
key of the Medici Chapel is deposited, but at last
obtained access to this superb monument of the
most renowned of Florentine families. The tombs
designed by Buonarotti, the walls inlaid with jas-
per, agate, lapis-lazuli, and other precious stones,
by turns attracted and rivetted attention.

The ceiling is painted by Benvenuto, the pre-
sent President of the Academy des Beaux Arts. It
has been finished about two years, and was nine
years in progress. They are still working at the
inlaid marbles, forming urns and pilasters, but it
can only be finished at an immense expenditure
of both wealth and time. We paid a last visit
to Santa Croce, offering, at the same time, a tribute
of respect to departed greatness, and delighting
our minds with those solemn meditations, which,
though so rarely to be enjoyed in the world,
afford the best, the most permanent, and the
noblest of our gratifications.

" In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie
Ashes which make it holier ; dust which is
Even in itself an immortality,
Though there were nothing save the past, and this
The particle of those sublimities
Which has relapsed to chaos :— here repose
Angelo's, Alfieri's bones ; and his,
The starry Galileo, with his woes ; —
Here Michiavelli's earth, return'd to whence it rose.
I

114 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

These are four minds, which, like the elements,

Might furnish forth creation : Italy !

Time, which hath wrong'd thee with ten thousand rents

Of thine imperial garment, shall deny,

And hath denied, to every other sky,

Spirits which soar from ruin : thy decay

Is still impregnate with divinity,

Which gilds it with revivifying day ;

Such as the great of yore, Canova is to-day."

Friday, February \. Florence. — We have delayed
our departure for Rome a week longer than we
intended ; but I trust that the letters which we
expect to receive will sufficiently compensate for
this sacrifice of time. We went in search of a

mosaic table : Dr. U accompanied us to some

of the best artists, but we did not succeed in
meeting with one to our taste. Many fine pic-
tures were shown to us, but the price of professed
originals is exorbitant ; we therefore contented
ourselves with the acquisitions already made. It
requires great judgment, as well as a good purse,
to undertake the purchase of anything which
bears the character of originality.

We obtained a view of several old newspapers,
(the Times], and with infinite regret heard of poor
Edmund Goldsmid's death, which occurred at
Rome the 1st of January. May his soul rest in
peace ! This is the second young friend lately
taken away from the midst of earthly prosperity,
but translated, let us hope, to that of an immu-

FLORENCE. 115

table and unclouded state. The most favoured in
this world find their happiness blended with
anxieties and inevitable heart-writhings, against
which the hope of the future only can present a
sufficient shield and support. The Lord's will be
done, and may He indue us with strength for
every coming trial !

Saturday, February 2. Florence. — Went with

M to synagogue. Several German females

were present, and they wished to be very con-
versant ; but I, as usual at a place of devotion,
was as resolved to be taciturn. The shops were
all closed to-day, and the streets were crowded
in consequence of the fete of Candlemas. Several
persons and children were carrying wax candles
to present to different churches on the occasion.
Posts were placed at the ends of the quay, to pre-
vent carriages from incommoding the pedestrians
who thronged the promenade. . We this evening
prepared for our departure early to-morrow morn-
ing. Dr. U came to take farewell, and offer

his services, and we sent for M. A 's book, and

were sorry to learn he was indisposed. M

kwent to read Galignani at the cafe, as they will

not send this paper out. D ?s is an excellent

establishment, very spacious, and supplies supe-
rior refreshments at moderate charge. Three
carriages are to leave the hotel to-morrow, we
I 2

116 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

therefore purpose being early. Several singing
parties passed under our windows during the
night. Their harmonious melodies reminded me
of the serenades of old times. I have a very bad
cold, but hope it will vanish as we proceed on
our journey.

Sunday, February 3. Arezzo. — The stars and
moon shone bright as we left the Hotel de Grande
Bretagne, at six this morning : cloaks, shawls,
and boas were put in requisition to exclude the
cold, which I found increase my cough ; but to-
wards noon, as the sun diffused its cheering rays,
I found myself relieved, and we did justice to a
cold fowl, provided for the journey, with a bottle
of excellent Muscat of the country.

Ice lay in considerable quantities on the sides
of the road, but the valleys and hills, though di-
vested of their brilliant clothing, looked graceful
and smiling, the road winding in a pleasing and
easy manner, and numerous villages and towns
enlivening the scenery.

We arrived at this town about half -past three
o'clock, and seeing the streets filled with gaily-
dressed persons, and some masks, M asked

the waiter if there was any performance at the
theatre. Yes, was the reply, there is an opera and
a drama. We chose the former on account of the
character which he gave it, and he immediately

FOLIGNO. 117

went to fetch the book. It was Beatrice di Tende,
a tragedy. The performance commenced at eight
and finished at eleven; but we retired at ten. On
my return I missed my lace veil, and sent the ser-
vant to see if I had left it in the box. It was not
to be found, but I offered a reward in case of their
forwarding it to Rome, should it be found here-
after. Patience ! M good-temperedly agreed

with me, that if no worse misfortune should occur
during our journey, we might well bear quietly
with this.

Monday, February 4. Foligno. — We were this
morning again in the carriage by six o'clock. It
was extremely cold, and much ice was lying about
the country; but an excellent road, and extensive
valleys richly cultivated and wooded, with the
frequent occurrence of villages, picturesque old
castles and monasteries, tended greatly to distract
our thoughts from the severity of the weather.
Mendicity is as prevalent as ever, poor old people
and cripples surrounding our carriage at every
post-house. We were three times obliged to add
a pair of oxen to our horses, besides on two
occasions a fifth horse ; and on ascending the
rising ground on which Perugia stands, it was so
extremely slippery that we considered it prudent
to walk, and it was fortunate we did so, for soon
one of the horses slipped down with the postil-

118 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

lion : thanks to Heaven ! no worse consequence
attended the accident than alarm to ourselves,
the man thinking nothing of it, and the poor
horse being soon lifted up, and again en route.

We passed Incisa, the birth-place of Petrarch,
and the beautiful and extensive lake of Thrasi-
mene, celebrated for the fatal battle between
Hannibal and the Romans under Flaminius.

" Far other scene is Thrasimene now ;
Her lake a sheet of silver, and her plain
Rent by no savage, save the gentle plough ;
Her aged trees rise thick as once the slain
Lay where their roots are : but a brook hath ta'en —
A little rill of scanty stream and bed —
A name of blood from that day's sanguine rain ;
And Sanguienetto tells ye where the dead
Made the earth wet, and turn'd the unwilling waters red."

Several small islands covered with trees, and ap-
parently inhabited, gemmed the bosom of this
noble sheet of water, and which was further en-
livened by the appearance of fishing-boats.

The plantations of olives and vines, fig and
mulberry trees, which enrich the plains, must
afford profitable employment to the population
of the several towns and villages through which
we passed. After a long but delightful journey
we, with God's blessing, arrived safely at this
town, about six o'clock.

Tuesday, February 5. H6tel di Campana. Narni.
— Left Foligno a quarter before nine ; a lovely

ROME. 119

winter morning, the sun reflecting on the drifted
snow, the green box-hedges peeping between,
with glittering icicles hanging from the rocks,
and the fine circular chain of snow round the
Apennines, reaching to the blue firmament, alto-
gether formed an exhilarating scene, the liveliness
of which, however, was in some degree injured
by the condition of the numerous poor which
surrounded us at every post-house. We had some
excellent fruit handed to us several times by
decent-looking young women, who were eager to
dispose of the produce of their fields and gardens.
From Spoleto to Strettura we had six horses and
two oxen. This one poste occupied more than
three hours, the ascents and descents being ren-
dered laborious and difficult by the snow and ice.
There was a gradual thaw, but the postillions in
this country appear to think very much of a
fall of snow. Another pair of oxen was required
before we reached Terni. The Valderno in spring
and summer, when foliage covers the extensive
plains of oaks, mulberries, and vines, and the
banks of the rivers, the Arno, the Lavina, &c.,
are enriched with growing corn and flax, must
indeed present a succession of the most delight-
ful scenes. We arrived at this very comfort-
able hotel at half -past five.

Wednesday, February 6. Hotel de Russie. Rome.

120 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

—Thanks to the Almighty for our safe arrival
in this city, though we have not been able to
obtain comfortable apartments at any of the
hotels, being at last obliged to put up with a
third story at Hotel de Russie, the Carnival at-
tracting so much company that there is not a
room disengaged.

We left Narni at seven o'clock this morning.
The weather was extremely cold and dull, and
the ice and snow on the ground seemed to alarm
the postillions, if we may judge from the terrible
noise they made at setting off. We had six horses
and a pair of oxen up the ascent. The views were
extremely picturesque and sublime. From Civita
Castettana we had eight horses, two of which
were unharnessed on gaining the summit. At
Baccana there were several soldiers on the way,
both horse and foot. We afterwards understood
that a robbery had yesterday been committed by
ten men on a French count, at two o'clock in the
afternoon. At this spot I perceived the men looked
at us very significantly. The roads are being
Macadamized near Rome, and the land is enclosed
and better cultivated in many parts, though much
remains in an apparently neglected state. On
our entering the Porta del Popolo, masks, scaf-
folding for spectators, and horse-racing, with
numbers of vehicles of all sorts, presented them-

ROME. 121

selves, and while Armstrong went to look for
rooms, we were amused in the carriage by the
gay scene. In the meantime a courier, who some
years ago attended us to England, recognised us,
and offered his services.

Thursday, February 7. Rome. — M returned

to breakfast after a fruitless search for other
apartments. He brought with him a large packet
of letters, and Galignani's papers of a month's
standing. The perusal of the letters caused some
melancholy reflections. They contained sad ac-
counts of the illness and death of some of our dear
friends.

We ascertained last night that Mr. A. A. G- —
quitted this city for Naples the day before our ar-
rival. It is our wish to join him there, and offer all
the condolence in our power under his afflicting
bereavement. After brooding and philosophising
on the instability of life, the events of which alter-
nate with each other, like night and day, or the
storms and calms of the ocean, we proceeded to
the Corso to dissipate care, in the gay, frolicsome,
and crowded scene which there presented itself.
A clear and bright sun made the carriages, masks,
and company appear as though the world had
never known distress. The retaliated attacks with
confitti, by all panks and nations, young and old,
rich and poor, masked and unmasked, must tend

122 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

to the benefit of tailors and marchands des modes,
for at the end of the day the black dresses were
completely whitened, and the white made black.
We obtained a very good room in the Corso, and
saw the horses set off and run in good style. The
governor in his state -carriage, attended by a
military escort, was preceded by two other
state carriages, and official personages in all the
pomp of office.

Friday, February 8. Rome. — This is a quiet
day in the Carnival festivities — no masks or
parade. We walked, however, through the Corso,
looked at the shops, and entered the Cafe Nuovo,
and inquired after little Baiocchi, who, poor fel-
low, had died of the cholera.

To be for the fourth time in Rome, after an
interval of eleven years, appears indeed like a
dream ; but the fountains, columns, obelisks, &c.
of this city of many ages and of wonders, so people
this land of dreams with realities, that time seems
almost to have lost its power. Reflection how-
ever, soon reawakens the heart to the sense of
many sad events ; but may we never fail to keep
in recollection the blessings which, throughout
the vicissitudes of life, have continued to mani-
fest the mercy of a heavenly Providence ! Then
will our hearts not cease to overflow with
acknowledgments of the bounty of God.

EOME. 123

Saturday, February 9. Rome. — M went

to synagogue, the distance preventing my ac-
companying him. The president and secretary
previously called upon us and manifested great
politeness. How painful it is to find our people
under so many disadvantages here ! Three thou-
sand five hundred souls are obliged to maintain
themselves by shops, and in a confined part of the
city. Arts, sciences, mechanism are prohibited.
Four times in the year two hundred are obliged to
attend a sermon for their conversion. It is said
that no proselytes are made, except occasionally
from among the most destitute, Leo XII. de-
prived them of the privilege granted by Pius VII.
of keeping shops out of the Ghetto. The present
pontiff has permitted them to have warehouses in
the city. He is favourably disposed, and kind in
his conduct, and it is to be hoped that the cardi-
nals and the government will soon become
equally so.

We went to the room we had engaged in
the Corso, to witness again the lively and varied
amusements of the day. Open waggons, decorated
with festoons of flowers and flags, were filled with
parties of about a dozen persons in the same cos-
tume, and who were the most active in their as-
saults with confitti. The Duchess of S was

among them.

124 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Sunday, February 10. Rome. — We this day
visited the Via Sacra, the Colosseum, the Pan-
theon, the Church of S. Giovanni Laterano, the
Scala Santa, and St. Peter's. These magnificent
and admirable structures and works of art, when-
ever viewed, inspire veneration and wonder at
the capabilities of human genius. Rome ex-
hibits the most striking contrasts of splendour
and misery. Some of the old streets, through
which we passed, were thronged with a population
overwhelmed with care and poverty, while the
next turning led to squares and streets filled with
palaces, statues, and monuments. The Pincian
Hill was the resort of all the fashionables this
afternoon till dark, and the situation of this
splendid drive gave due effect to the innumerable
equipages, and throngs of elegantly-dressed per-
sons, who, leaving their carriages, filled the pro-
menades of this beautiful resort. We finished
the gaieties and amusements of the day by going
to the Opera, which was crowded.

Monday, February 11. Rome. — We considered
ourselves fortunate in seeing St. Peter's illumi-
nated. It is certainly a brilliant and magnificent
spectacle ; the whole of the colonnade, as well as
the cupola and church reflecting myriad streams
of light on the beautiful fountains and statues
below. It was in honour of the presence of the

ROME. 125

Grand Duke of - — , who, it is said, has, since
his sojourn here, been wounded by the darts of
Cupid, but the fair one being of plebeian parents,
dare not aspire to the hand of a sovereign prince,
fearful of such a country as Siberia. She is said

to be a Miss G , daughter of an English

gentleman of small income, and one of eight
sisters. The young hereditary duke, it is re-
ported, was sent on his travels on account of his
susceptibility to the tender passion.

We have engaged a very nice barouche for the
time of our stay here, and a valet-de-place.

M at last presented his letters to Duke

T— - and others. The Duke sent us an invita-
tion to a select ball to-night, to meet the Grand-
duke, which we declined. Having purchased a
supply of flowers and superior bon-bons, to return
hostilities, we found these sweet and fragrant
weapons most useful in answering the attacks we
received, while a mask was found to be no less
essential as defensive armour against the handf uls
of confitti, aimed with no very light hand by some
masked antagonist. The bouquets were thrown
and received in a more graceful manner. About
four the Corso was cleared of carriages for the
races, and we entered our room, No. 22, II Corso.

Tuesday, February 12. Rome. — We purchased
a fresh supply of elegant flowers and confitti to

126 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

return the numerous challenges which we knew,
from the experience of the previous days, we
might expect to receive. The Corso was thronged ;
cars, as before, decorated with artificial flowers,
and each containing a little band of mimic
warriors, poured forth perpetually thick showers
of bouquets and sweetmeats.

In the interval of these amusements we drove
to Meloni's to take leave of Baron James de

R , and his family. We then went to our

room in the Corso to see the races, and met there
an English family, consisting of a lady and gen-
tleman, and their daughter. They knew us, as
they seemed to do everybody in Rome, and soon
entered into conversation. After the races the
wax tapers were lighted, and all, whether at the
windows or in carriages, were immediately em-
ployed in blowing out or re-lighting them, and
with mirth, wit, and nonsense, the amusements
continued till past eight o'clock, when the crowd
gradually dispersed, some hastening to dinner,
and others to masked balls and other parties.
Thus ended this year's carnival at Rome. So
much does it engross the attention of many, that
from the finale, of one to the commencement of
another the mind is filled with anticipations of
its gaieties.

Wednesday, February 13. Velletri. — We have

VELLETRI. 127

again quitted Rome, after a second time witness-
ing the carnival, a festivity only calculated for
the lively and readily-excited spirits of the
Italians.

In passing the fountain di Trevi, it appeared
to me more imposing and magnificent than be-
fore. So do objects truly great increase in
grandeur by a more familiar acquaintance.

But in Rome, as I have before observed, splen-
dour and misery force themselves upon the
attention, in the way of contrast, more frequently
than in almost any other city of the world, for
there the mouldering magnificence of many ages
appears side by side with modern palaces. Some
in the glory of rich maturity, and others wanting
still the wealth of ages to complete them:

" Great and glorious Rome, queen of the earth,
So far renown'd, and with the spoils enriched
Of nations ; there the capitol thou seest,
Above the rest lifting his stately head
On the Tarpeian rock, her citadel
Impregnable : and there Mount Palatine,
The imperial palace, compass huge, and high
The structure, skill of noblest architects,
With gilded battlements conspicuous far,
Turrets, and terraces, and glittering spires ! "

At a quarter-past eleven we were on the Via
Appia towards Naples. On changing horses at
Torri di Mezzalia we had an escort of two sol-
diers, the road having lately been infested with

128 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

robbers. Prince P was stopped at La

Storta on his way to Rome, by six men, who
demanded his purse and watch. The contents
of the former not satisfying them, they made a
demand on the servants, one then quietly left the
party. This happened only the day before our
arrival, and we observed several gens-d'armes
on the spot, while the two soldiers rode in full
gallop by our carriage, looking at us with more
than usual earnestness, intending, as we after-
wards were informed, to become our escort in case
of need. We continued to be protected up the
hill from Albano to Genzano, which post required
two extra horses. The trees are already bud-
ding, and the corn appearing above the ground
gives promise of the autumn's plenty. Green flax
affords another species of luxuriant clothing for
the land, and the country near Albano, beauti-
fully diversified with hill and dale, presents a
rich succession of vineyards and olive-groves.
Far in the distance arose the snow-capped Apen-
nines, while near at hand, in strange contrast
with the life and brilliancy of the sun-lit scene,
appeared many an ancient sepulchre, the tomb,
perhaps of some poet, warrior, or philosopher.

After an exceedingly agreeable journey we
reached Velletri a quarter before five. While tea
was being prepared we walked in the garden,

MOLA DI GAETA. 129

where we were greatly delighted with the an-
tique busts and statues with which it was adorned
nor less with the fine orange and lemon- trees
heavy with clusters of golden fruit. Some
families who arrived after us, brought the infor-
mation that four of the banditti had been taken,
and that their chief was killed by the soldiers on
whom he had fired. An exhibition was after-
wards made of his body in every town through
which they passed on their way to Naples.

Thursday, February 14. Mola di Gaetd,
Locanda di Cicerone. — Leaving the very com-
fortable post-house at a little past six, the morn-
ing beaming with all the animation of spring, we
soon found ourselves recompensed for stealing a
few hours from the couch, by the pleasure at-
tendant upon passing, with good horses and
postillions, over a fine level road, through a
richly-cultivated and extensive plain. The Pon-
tine Marshes appear better drained than formerly,
and the water on the sides of the road has been
cleared of reeds and mud. Droves of horses,
oxen, cows, and buffaloes overspread the wide
pastures, nor were there wanting the gentler
ornaments of a pastoral scene, numerous flocks
of sheep and lambs.

At Terracina the sea looked so blue and clear,
and the stupendous rocks hung over it with so
K

130 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

awful a grandeur, that to enjoy the full view
we descended from the carriage while changing
horses, and walked on. Beyond Fondi the depth
of the caverns in the rocks might well shake the
nerves of less experienced travellers, but even
their apprehensions must soon be superseded by
admiration of the beauty of the olive, palm,
and fig-trees which crown the summits.

Before five we arrived at this place, the name
of which is consecrated in the feelings of those
to whom the memory of genius is dear, by the
recollection of that most distinguished of ancient
orators, the great and virtuous Cicero.

The hotel at which we stopped is said to have
been his residence, and it required but a trifling
effort of imagination as we walked along the
garden, full of orange and lemon-trees, with their
golden fruit, and dark green leaves, to conjure
up the shade of the eloquent and philosophic
Roman, and to give life to the ancient busts and
statues which decorated the avenues and ter-
races. Two old gardeners were seated at the end
of the walk, watching the curling waves making
towards the shore. They showed us some olives
just gathered ; a good quality, but few. Most of
the fruit is sent to Rome.

February 15. Hotel de la Vitte de Rome.
Naples. — At six o'clock we left Mola di Gaetd.

NAPLES. 131

The hedges were formed of a continued row of
rich green and fragrant shrubs, but the speed of
the postillions precluded all chance of botanizing.
We passed over a handsome new suspension
bridge, across the river Garigliano, anciently the
Liris. An excellent road, with groves of trees,
rich plains, sublime mountains, marble-quarries,
ruins of amphitheatres, and lofty aqueducts in
turn struck our attention, but again the number
of the blind, maimed, and other wretched objects
craving charity, distressed and harrowed our
feelings. At half -past three we thankfully arrived
at this city, and immediately proceeded to the

apartments secured for us by Baron J. de R .

Like Rome, the city was inundated with visitors.
Every room at the Vittoria and Crucelle was
occupied, and the apartments which had been
engaged for us were the best which could be
procured.

Saturday, February 16. Naples. — We walked
together in the Villa Reale. The promenade is
well attended from four till half -past five ; the
salubrity of the air, with the refreshing shade of
the trees, and the beauty of the bay, affording
an attraction in no slight degree heightened by
the grandeur of Vesuvius and Capri.

Sunday, February 17. Naples. — Mr. M ,

the agent of Messrs, de R , having engaged for

K 2

132 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

us a very convenient open carriage, and a valet de
place, we accompanied him and family to Mount
St. Elmo, and to St. Martin, at the Chartreuse
monastery, but our attempt to enter was made
in vain ; the reply to the application being, that

no females could be admitted. M said, that

as strangers we desired, out of curiosity, to see
the church, having heard much of its riches
in agate, lapis-lazuli, pictures, &c. The man
answered, that if we would give him a thousand
pounds to allow us to advance one pace, he dare

not. Mr. G and his son entered, and M —

remained with the ladies. They soon returned,
extolling the magnificence of the place of
sanctity, which not to have seen, when on the
spot, would have been to them a source of regret.
While waiting for them we paused an instant to
look about us, but the guard called out, directing
us to walk on, intimating that it was not per-
mitted to stop, fearing perhaps that we were
enemies, and scientific enough to take a sketch
of the fortress.

Monday, February 18. Naples. — Wrote letters,
and afterwards accompanied our friends to the
principal magazine for coral and lava ornaments,
of which I made a few purchases. The Queen-
mother, the King and Queen, and others of
the royal family were driving on the Chiaja in

NAPLES. 133

open carriages. They bowed very graciously to
every one in passing. Several gentlemen were
on horseback, but only one lady. Part of the
Villa Reale has been taken in to form a safer
ride than that afforded by the lava pave, on
which horses, when riden or driven fast, are often
known to slip. We went to see the pictures of
a Saxon artist, residing here, and whose painting
of the interior of the royal chapel at Palermo
struck us as a noble specimen of art.

Tuesday, February 19. Naples. — Went with

some friends to the Museum. Mr. A met us

at the door, and we proceeded to view the curio-
sities found at Pompeii and Herculaneum. The
paintings still retain their brilliancy of colouring
after having been exposed to the darkening influ-
ence of two thousand years. Equally fitted to
excite astonishment and admiration were the
manuscripts. The utmost ingenuity, with much
learning, is employed in unfolding them, and
supplying the lost characters, which in the copies
and printed books are marked with red ink.
Among the other objects soliciting our attention
was the beautiful agate dish, the figures on which
represent an old man holding a cornucopia in his
hand, and surrounded by his family. On the
reverse is a finely-carved head of Medusa. This
splendid cameo was found at the baths of Adrian

134 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

at Rome. The museum closing at two, we
repaired to an excellent cafe, and after the feast
of the mind gladly partook of chocolate and
cakes. A drive round the bay finished the
morning's amusement.

Wednesday, February 20. Naples. — We re-
ceived an invitation from the Duke of Saraca-
priolo, president of the Royal Academy of Music.
The first concert to-morrow evening. It is ex-
pected to be well attended. The climate and
environs render Naples a charming residence, as
far as a place can be made so by the rich gifts of
nature ; but, alas ! where " all but the spirit of
man is divine," every other beauty, or excellence,
loses more than half its value.

Thursday, February 21. Naples. — We took a
drive this morning, and stopped to make a few

purchases. Mr. A , who was on horseback,

came round to speak, and as the space between
the carriage and the shop was not very wide, the
horse backed up against the wall, affixed to
which was a glass show-frame. Down it fell on

Mr. A 's shoulders, and partly on the animal.

The rider managed him extremely well, but the
owner rushed out of the shop to claim remunera-
tion for the glass broken, and the misplacing of the
objects it contained. A crowd soon collected, and
M desired our servant to hold the reins of

NAPLES. 135

the still rather restive horse, while Mr. A

dismounted, with no other damage than atom
coat, and his pocket relieved of a few ducats.
My uneasiness at this occurrence was increased

by being partly the cause of it. M called at

the Belle Vue on our return to inquire after him,
but found him out. Mademoiselle S accom-
panied us to the Academy of Music at St. Carlo.
The concert was attended by the King and Queen,
the Duchess of Salerno and daughter, the Princes
of Salerno and Syracuse, the King's uncle and
brother, the foreign ambassadors, and others of
the court, besides most of the foreigners of dis-
tinction at Naples. The salon, &c., was most
brilliantly lighted with large and innumerable
wax candles in chandeliers, and which were
rendered still more dazzling by the looking-
glasses that covered the walls of the room. Ices,
&c., were handed round between the acts. The
Queen, who is only nineteen years old, is exceed-
ingly agreeable in person and manners, convers-
ing in turn with those composing her circle, as
also did the King and others of the royal family.
Madame Ronzi de Begnis is the prima donna.

Friday, February 22. Naples. — As the Locanda
della Villa di Roma was not considered the most
healthy situation, and we found ourselves not
altogether unaffected by it, we yesterday engaged

136 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

apartments at La Vittoria, commanding a full
view of the Villa Reale, the bay, and the hills.
We should gladly have remained at our former
hotel, had the air been as good as the rooms, and
the attention of the people. La Yittoria is quite
full, and our apartments became vacant only
within the last day. My maid informs me that
more that fifty servants belonging to the visitors
sit down to table, the master of the house pre-
siding. The Prince Royal of Bavaria is here.

Saturday, February 23. Naples. — Being ex-
tremely pleased with the prospect from our
windows, we remained at home all the forenoon
to enjoy it. Every royal carriage that passes is
saluted by the sound of the bugje, and presenting
of arms by the guards stationed at the gate of
the gardens. Mr. A. G and Mr. M —

called upon us, and brought the information that
Lord Glenelg has resigned his situation of colonial

minister. We dined at Mr. G 's, and a most

lovely moonlight night shed all its beauty upon
us in our short walk back to the hotel.

Sunday, February 24. Naples. — Mr. M

having kindly procured orders for us to see the
palaces, Mr. G— — and family accompanied us to
Portici, about four miles distant. The palace,
gardens, wild animals, and other objects of curi-
osity well repaid our trouble. The agate banis-

NAPLES. 137

ters are extremely handsome, and a room filled
with china in various devices of flowers, animals,
musical instruments, and arabesques, usually
excites especial admiration. Another apart-
ment is covered with portraits of the Buonaparte
family, among which is that of Napoleon,
crowned and in his robes, by Gerard, a work of
great merit. The garden is pretty, and the
gardeners are not sparing of their bouquets.

Monday, February 25. Naples. — The day was
dull, cold, and wet ; we, however, availed our-
selves of a cessation of rain to take an airing for
a couple of hours, during which we made
another, and probably a last visit to the Grotto
of Pausilippo, which appeared lighted with a
greater number of lamps than formerly. Many
carriages, carts, donkeys, and foot-passengers
were passing to and fro, the traffic between
Naples and Pozzuoli affording great occupation
to the industrious classes. We observed many
cottages in an improved state, and the country
people are generally rather more neat in appear-
ance than the lazzaroni of the city of Naples.
We had fixed this day for an excursion up
Vesuvius, but fortunately the portentous lower-
ing of yesterday's setting sun induced us to
postpone the project.

Tuesday, February 26. Naples. La Vittoria. —

138 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

An English physican, at present attending Miss

G , and who has resided in the town thirty

years, observed to us this morning, that he
thinks, within the last four years the climate of
Naples has undergone a material change, the cold
winds being more prevalent, and alterations of
the atmosphere more frequent than formerly.
We visited to-day a manufactory of porcelain,
where we saw many specimens of medallions
and Etruscan vases, and copies of figures from
Pompeii. I made several purchases. Dur-
ing a delightful ride up Mount Pausilippo we
passed various villas, and the school of Virgil ;
while the beautiful bay, with the islands of Ischia
and Capri, the towns of Baija, Portici, &c., pre-
sented the noblest scenery, rendered still more
beautiful by the vineyards, hanging shrubs, and
almond-trees breaking forth with the brightening
hues of spring. On descending to the Chiaja we
met several of the royal carriages, and as we
approached the hotel saw a troop of horse lining
the walls of the Larga Reale, drawn up in
expectation of the arrival of his Majesty the
King of Bavaria. About two hours after, the
beat of drums and sound of trumpets announced
the approach of the royal cortege, and several
carriages and four drove into the court-yard of
this hotel, where the royal party were expected.

NAPLES. 139

The Prince Royal of Bavaria yesterday morning
set out for Psestum.

Wednesday, February 27. Naples. — The fast of
Esther. This era always brings with it melan-
choly reflections — the death of my father can
never be remembered without sorrow, but it is
wrong and selfish, because the hope that the
Almighty has granted my dear parents a happy
futurity, one free from pain and full of bliss,
ought to reconcile one to the privation. We

called for Miss G , and drove to the port to

see the two Sicilian steam -boats lying in the
harbour; but they are both extremely small
vessels, and on board of which we should not
have courage to take our passage for Malta.
They touch at Messina and Palermo, making it a
six days' and six nights' voyage. We afterwards
went through Portici to visit the ruins of Hercu-
laneum. Many discoveries have been effected
since our former visit, several streets being now
uncovered ; houses, painted walls, mosaic floor-
ings, Corinthian columns, baths, and what is
more observable, a prison with the ancient
gratings and two flights of narrow stone stairs,
the lower one leading to a dungeon. The paved
narrow streets and footpaths on both sides are in
good order.

Thursday, February 28. Naples. La Vittoria.

140 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

— During the night we were surprised by a noise
in the adjoining chamber, which we appropriated

for our luggage. M arose, and on opening

the door a strange man made his appearance.
This was somewhat startling, but on inquiring
his business there he replied that he was a
servant belonging to the house ; and as all the
beds were occupied with strangers, he thought,
as there was one at liberty in that room, he
might take advantage of it for the night. He
apologized for the alarm he had created. Mr.
G called to invite us to dinner next Satur-
day. We accompanied him in a drive past
Albergo dei Roviri, the Strada Nuova, the beauti-
ful wide road made by Murat, but the coldness
of the wind induced us to return to the Chiaja.
We met several carriages and four, those of Lord
Craven, the Duke of Buccleuch, and royal family
of Naples. The King of Bavaria is said to
possess very superior abilities as a poet, and to
be a great patron of learning and the fine arts.
The Ferdinand the Second arrived this morning.
She is stated to be a large vessel, but the weather
prevented our going on board, as we intended, to
see her equipments.

Friday, March 1. Naples. — Commenced writ-
ing to Mrs. L. R , but was prevented finish-
ing the letter. Went to see several churches.

NAPLES. 141

The cathedral is being repaired, and the hand-
some marble columns repolished, but we post-
poned seeing the chapel of St. Januarius till Miss

G could be of our party. The church of

Marie de la Peite' has three beautiful statues,
worthy the attention of strangers, from the
exquisite manner in which they are executed.
That of a veiled female, representing Modesty, is
the finest piece of sculpture I ever beheld. The
veil is so transparent that all the features are
discernible through it, the whole being of one
piece of marble. Opposite to this is the figure of
a man covered with a net, which is being lifted
up by a cherub, emblematical of Vice discovered.
The third is a dead Christ, enveloped in a thin
covering. We passed through the old city, the
streets of which are extremely narrow, but con-
taining very good shops. It was in the old
market-place that Masaniello was murdered. We
purchased some flowers in Strada Toledo, and
after driving to the Strada Nuova and the Chiaja,
returned home. Armstrong went on board the
Ferdinando Secondo. He says it is an excellent
vessel, and if we could obtain her for our passage
to Malta we could not desire a better. It rests
with the King to grant permission.

Saturday, March 2. Naples. Hotel de la
Victoire. — Walked for some time in the

142 NOTES FROI£ A JOURNAL.

Reale, where we were joined by Mr. G 's

family, who took chocolate with us at our hotel.
We afterwards continued our walk till four

o'clock, and dined at Mr. G 's. Stories,

charades, &c., in Italian, French, and English
occupied the hour of social leisure.

Sunday, March 3. Naples. — We took a turn
in the gardens, where a great many prom enaders
were assembled, and at one left for the Campo
Marzo. Vehicles of every kind were proceeding
to the race-course, on the fine paved road whence
may be seen the Bay and Vesuvius. A gradual
ascent leads to the Campo Marzo, an extensive
green for the exercise of troops, surrounded by
magnificent scenery. The assemblage of carriages
was already so numerous as to oblige us to take
the third line. We had, however, a very good
sight of the building, at the head of which was
a booth appropriated for the royal family, who
were attended by a full court. About three o'clock
the amusements commenced, and the novelty of
female horse-racing, and the skill of charioteers,
in imitation of the ancient games, were highly
diverting. The lady equestrians were dressed in
black hats with plumes of white feathers, scarlet
spencers and white long skirts, others in splendid
Amazonian style. Some of the jockeys managed
seven hoises each-

NAPLES. 143

Monday, March 4. Naples. — A beautiful day !
We visited St. Chiaro, where the kings of Naples
are buried. Robert of Anjou lies interred there.
The chapel adjoining belongs to the convent for
noble ladies, some of whom we saw through the
gratings at their devotions. We then went again
to view the statues at St. Severus, then to St.
Apostoli, and St. Annunciata ; afterwards to la
Strada Toledo, to take chocolate, and lastly to la
Strada Nuova, and to the summit of Mount Pausi-
lippo. The view of the Bay seemed more lovely
than ever ; the immense space of blue waters,
white stone buildings, and majestic mountains,
islands, villas, and gardens forming a magnificent
coup-d'oeil.

Such was the feeling as we viewed again and
again this delicious scene, that we could readily
have exclaimed with the poet —

This region, surely is not of the earth.
Was it not dropt from heaven 1 Not a grove,
Citron, or pine, or cedar ; not a grot,
Sea-worn and mantled with the gadding vine,
But breathes enchantment. Not a cliff but flings
On the clear blue wave some image of delight,
Some cabin roof glowing with crimson flowers,
Some ruined temple or fallen monument.

We have heard this evening that the govern-
ment steam-boat leaves this port on Monday or
Tuesday next for Palermo and Malta. She is a
vessel of one hundred and sixty horse power. We
hope, please God, to go with her.

144 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Tuesday ', March 5 . Naples. Hotel de laVictoire.
— Went on board II Ferdinando Secondo, an ex-
cellent steamer belonging to the Sicilian govern-
ment, one hundred and sixty horse power, and
one hundred and twenty feet long. We could
gain no information respecting her departure for
Malta or Sicily, but she is a vessel well calculated
for the excursion. We afterwards went to la Fa-
brica di Bragio Justioriani e figli, where we pur-
chased several articles for our garden at East Cliff,
in Porcella e terraglia. We then drove up and
down the Chiaja and Strada Nuova, and passed

an hour at la Belle Vue with Mr. G and his

family, who expressed themselves as not much
fatigued after their excursion to Mount Vesuvius.

Wednesday, March 6. — Mademoiselle S

called at twelve, and accompanied us to the
Grotto Pausilippo Pozzuoli, and to see the re-
mains of a temple dedicated to Jupiter Serapis,
which is well worth visiting. Many of the colos-
sal columns are in fragments, but others remain
entire ; chapels where the priests performed their
sacrifices, and addressed the people, are very in-
teresting remains of pagan worship. The sea has
made great inroads about this spot, and worms
have eaten away the marble. In many places the
sulphur-baths are yet used in cases of rheumatism,
and they have been found efficacious in diseases

NAPLES. 145

of the eye. We could trace along the road a line
of lava from the ancient crater of Sulferterra.
The different villas and objects in the bay ren-
der this a most pleasing excursion.

Thursday, March 7. Naples. — Mr. G and

his family accompanied us to see Virgil's tomb.
There were several other parties going up to visit
the spot where the great poet is said to have been
interred. A small dome, supported by arches, is
pointed out as the remains of the mausoleum,
and a marble tablet with a Latin inscription on
the outside, a copy of one now in the museum.
We obtained some cuttings of the fig and vine
from the garden, as a substitute for a branch of
laurel from the classic spot. The laurel, alas ! is
no more : the ravages of time and strangers have
not suffered a vestige to remain ! We continued

riding till four o'clock, and met Mr. A , who

had very kindly troubled himself in looking out
for a Florentine mosaic table. He had found
one which he thought might suit, and wished me
to accompany him to look at it. As it was but a
small one I purchased three others also, which I
consider handsome.

Friday, March 8. Naples. — E. G accom-
panied us to Strada Nuova, and passing the beau-
tiful palace of Anqri, we enquired of our valet-de-
place, Charles, if admission to see it could be

L

14-6 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

obtained. He gravely shook his head, saying it

was requisite to have an order. M thought

a piastre would have the effect, and Charles soon
returned with the custode, who led the way up a
broad, gradual ascent, bordered on each side by
flowers and busts, and winding round till we
reached the house, which commands a most de-
lightful view of the bay, Vesuvius, the interest-
ing isles and towns, with hills whose vegetation
is now breaking forth with all the beauty of
spring. The interior of this tasteful dwelling
excited equal admiration by the beauty of its
architecture, the magnificence of its furniture,
interspersed with various decorations of art, and
affording all the enticements of luxury and com-
fort which may be looked for in a modern
palace. We felt, however, the deficiency of car-
pets, which, though they might have hidden the
beautiful diversified floorings, would have pro-
tected us from taking cold, of which I now feel
the effects. A billiard table engaged our particular
notice. It was of handsome polished wood, richly
carved, and the lions' heads on the sides were
made to open their mouths on receiving the ball.
Saturday, March 9. Naples. — The early part
of this day was chiefly spent in a walk to the
Villa ReaZe, and the evening was passed at Mr.
G 's, where we pleasantly amused ourselves,

NAPLES. 147

and taxed our ingenuity to the utmost in untying
the knotty points of some charades, both French
and English.

Sunday, March 10. Naples. — The races on
the Campo Marzo were to have been resumed to-
day, but the inauspicious state of the weather (it
being dull after the wind and rain which prevailed
during the night) impeded those amusements.
The King was again driving the Queen in a phae-
ton and pair. It is extremely gratifying to observe
the amiable attention of these young sovereigns
towards each other ; the King being twenty-nine,
the Queen nineteen years old. Their manner is
gracious and condescending. I entered the read-
ing-room with M to see a painting of Vesu-
vius. This establishment is only accessible to the
English who subscribe for the English journals
and various publications which are prohibited to
others. We find II Ferdinando Secondo is ap-
pointed for Thursday next to convey his Bavarian
majesty to Palermo, and will not touch at Malta ;
all hope, therefore, of our having the advantage of
this commodious vessel is vanished.

Monday, March 11. Naples. — I have a se-
vere cold, caught on Friday last at the palace of
Angri, from the stone floors. Well, we must pay

for curiosity and pleasure ! M wishes me

to consult Mr. B , though I feel that with a

L 2

148 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

little more care I shall not need medical advice.
As it was a fine mild day I judged an airing

would be beneficial. Mr. G and his two

eldest daughters rode with us till four o'clock.

"We then called for Mdlle. S , who returned

with us to dinner, but I could not remain at table,

finding myself still more indisposed. M

expected the doctor all the evening, and we
waited for him till ten, thinking he might have
expected a soiree. We afterwards understood,
that his having had a more than ordinary
number of patients to visit, and thinking our
invitation merely for tea, was the reason of his
disappointing us. I passed a very disturbed night.

Tuesday, March 12. Miss de E rode with

us for two hours to the Strada Nuova. She is
full of intelligence, and is remarkably agreeable.
A Princess Centola, a Neapolitan, is often seen on
the drive. She is one of the handsomest ladies
here, and appears very young, though the mother
of ten children. She is the wife of Prince Angeli
Doreci's brother. The two brothers are not on
friendly terms, some dispute existing in a law-
suit respecting the estate left by the late prince
their father, who died a few months since of the
cholera.

Wednesday, March 13. Our time passes here
rather monotonously ; calling on invalids, taking

NAPLES. 149

a walk or a drive, being our chief occupation.
Our friends at the Crucetta were in a more favour-
able state to-day. The King of Bavaria and suite
depart to-morrow morning for Palermo. His son
has just taken possession of the apartments
which the Duke of Oldenburg quitted yesterday
morning.

The steam-boat conveyance increases the num-
ber of travellers to this city. It is surprising that
so many distressed objects should still exist.

Thursday, March 14. — We visited Herculaneum
to-day, the fineness of the weather precluding fear
of damp, a danger ordinarily encountered in such
subterraneous visits. I was well pleased in this
my second research among the ancient ruins and
streets. The guide at our request gave us a piece
of the painted rouge wall, as a great favour. We
stored up a few pieces of mosaic from the flooring,
and intend drying a little bouquet from the gar-
den as mementos of Herculaneum. The theatre is
larger than that of S. Carlo, the two inscriptions
in marble of the consuls Balbi, at each end of
the corridor, being still as distinct as if only
newly sculptured.

The statues found in the edifice are at the
Museum ; and it was formerly, we are told,
covered in its whole extent with marble. Its
vast dimensions testify the immensity of the city.

150 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Friday, March 15. — Paid our usual visits, and
found the invalids improving. A windy day, but I

took a drive with M to purchase flowers and

perfumery, and change some mosaic for lava or-

ments. Mr. A the Italian master, passed

the evening with us ; we found him an entertain-
ing, gentlemanly person — he related many anec-
dotes of great personages and others. We have
not yet been to S. Carlo, our visits having been
chiefly to the sick and the bereaved. Strange to
say, very seldom is one's attention engaged by
the sound of music here. Italy, where harmony
and sweet sounds once prevailed, now leaves to
colder realms the cultivation of that science
which calms and soothes the ruder passions of
human nature. May it only be neglected for a
time, not discarded for ever ! I am told that it
is seldom introduced in parties of the present day.
We were informed, among other curious little
matters, that all the brothers and sisters of a pope
are allowed the title of princes and princesses.

Saturday , March 16. Naples. — Our friends, the

Misses G having called for us to take a walk,

we went to the Chiaja gardens, and thence to //
largo Spirito Santo, but the church was closed.
There is a noble colonnade with shops, newly
erected. We passed the handsome fountain of
Medina, which always has a refreshing supply of

NAPLES. 151

waters. We then ascended the height of Pezzo-
falcone, and returned by the steps to the passage
leading to Strada Chiaja. The flowers at the
Villa Reale are embellishing the different clumps
and fountains, and budding forth in various
forms and hues, with all the beauties of spring,
while the birds, chanting their hopeful song,
seem to fancy's ear emulous of the praise ever
due to nature's music.

I heard, the other day, of a melancholy suicide
committed by one of the first singers here. A

Mr. N , a native of Paris, who from not

meeting with his wonted applause in a single air,
felt the disappointment and chagrin so bitterly,
that he put an end to his life by throwing him-
self out of the window.

Sunday, March 17. — At eight o'clock M

went to the Belle Vue, to bid farewell to Mr. G

and his family, and found him in time to see
them off, and to offer them our best wishes. The
Grand Duke Charles of Austria's arrival here
to-day made it difficult to obtain post-horses for
both carriages, but at last they succeeded. Our
intention of going to visit Pompeii to-day was
frustrated by a gale of wind, which would have
rendered that excursion almost insufferable from
the dust. We congratulated ourselves on not
being at sea this weather. May the Almighty

152 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

still deign to protect us in the same merciful
manner as hitherto ! Let us, O Lord, throughout
life, exert ourselves to cherish unceasingly a sense
of thy Divine goodness, that we may never fail
to experience thy protecting power !

Monday, March 18. — It being our intention,
with the blessing of the Almighty, to depart for
Rome on Wednesday next, we proceeded to the
poste aux chevaux, to deliver the order for horses,
that we might not be disappointed at this busy
season. We then went to the post-office for our
newspapers, where the throng of persons was im-
mense. The office closes from eleven till three
o'clock. We found a close carriage more desir-
able than an open one. Puncenelli, improvvisatori,
and eatable stalls, obtained as crowded an audi-
ence and attendance on the Molo as when the
sun is shining and the streets are dry. All seemed
contented, except the wretched mendicants, and
the poor over-driven horses and donkeys, which,
when harnessed beside the ox, seemed ready to
sink beneath their burdens.

I this morning heard some anecdotes of Car-
dinal Mezzofante, who speaks fifty-eight different
languages and dialects, all with the greatest pro-
priety of pronunciation, as well as grammatical
accuracy. He was formerly librarian of the Vati-
can, and was made cardinal as an honour due to

NAPLES. 153

his astonishing talent. It is said, that on his
obtaining the promotion, the Council of Cardinals
resembled that of Babel, and that he, Mezzofante,
was chosen their interpreter.

Tuesday, March 19. — This being the fete of St.
Joseph, all the shops were closed even more
strictly than on Sunday, and the people were
generally well dressed. I understand that alms
are given on this day to the poor, and that many
families receive presents of new suits of clothes,
to the funds for which their Majesties contribute

largely. We took leave of the Baroness de R ,

and saw the Baron for a few minutes. He was
very pale and thin, which was not surprising,
after a fortnight's confinement to his bed and
severe remedies. I trust we shall soon hear of his
recovery. It is nearly five weeks since we com-
menced our sojourn at Naples! What a dream is
life ! We came with the expectation of meeting an
excellent conveyance for Malta, and with the hope
of passing the ensuing holidays there, or still
further east, but no opportunity presenting itself
we must return to Rome. May it prove for the
best! May the Almighty direct our steps!

Wednesday, March 20. Hotel Cicerone. Mola
di Gaeta. — At eight o'clock we left the Victoria
and having stopped at the Crucella, we had the
pleasure to find that the Baron had passed a good

154 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

night and was better. We proceeded through
the crowded streets of Naples, and were accosted
by the poor flower-vendors, who cheerfully
wished us buon viaggio, as did many others in
passing. The rain that had fallen in the night
laid the dust, and we found the air pure, but the
roads heavy. Many post-horses had already set
off, and we met several on the return. The Cam-
pagna was perceptibly improved since the pre-
ceding month, the fruit-trees being now in blos-
som and vegetation in great progress, while the
fields were enlivened by numerous labourers and
flocks and herds. We had an extra pair of horses
at St. Agatha, and also on entering the town.
We reached this hotel at thirty-six minutes past
five. The sun set majestically, veiling the neigh-
bouring mountains in the most luxuriant colours,
and forming round the beautiful gulf a splendid
picture ; but the town generally has a desolate
and uncomfortable appearance.

Thursday, March 21. Velletri. — We were grati-
fied with the sight of sun-rise at half -past five
this morning. How majestic and still was the
morning dawn, as the pale yellow deepened into
glittering gold ! We were ready at six, the hour
fixed for setting off, and heard the approach of
post-horses, but they were for a family from the
other hotel. How vexed was M , who is

VELLETRI. 155

always exact to time, to find others beforehand.
Another and another carriage passed. The post-
master was questioned, and replied that the fault
did not rest with him, for that they who order
their horses first are always first served. It was
as well to be cool on the matter, though we had
hoped to have reached Albano this evening. At
length the horses were announced, and we de-
scended, but found suchfatiguedstrips of animals,
with two boys, not regular postillions, that

M would not set off with them. Another

hour elapsed, when the sound of the whip
announced a regular relay from Atri, and at a
quarter before eight, with a fresh supply of
patience, the old stock being exhausted, we were
again en route. How serene the Campagnafelice!
Birds were singing, numberless blossoms per-
fuming the air, and the soil promising a rich har-
vest, both for the needy and the luxurious. Where
is the heart that feels not grateful for the bounty
of the Deity ? We met numbers of droves of
horses, buffaloes, oxen, and sheep to-day. The
Pontine Marshes seem to be better drained and
cultivated than heretofore. Many parts are being
enclosed. We arrived at Velletri six minutes after
eight o'clock.

Friday, March 22. — A little past six this morning
we were en route for the Eternal City, setting off

156 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

from Velletri with six horses, it being rather a
rough stage to Genzano. The country people
here and at Albano are good-looking and cleanly,
and their costume, a scarlet jacket and neat head-
dress, is extremely becoming. Indeed they seem
better clothed than any of the peasantry I have
hitherto noticed in Italy. We observed whole
families, consisting of young and grown up chil-
dren, fathers and mothers, some on donkeys or
mules, others on foot, repairing with their imple-
ments of agriculture to their daily labour in the
fields. It was a pleasant sight, because they all
appeared cheerful and happy, none of them ex-
hibiting that harassed and fatigued aspect which
we have too often observed elsewhere.

We arrived at the Posta at half -past eleven
o'clock. There was a letter for us at the gate

from Mr. S , purporting that he had engaged

apartments for us at Via Fontenella di Borghese,
54, of which we took possession. They are com-
modious, but not the most cheerful, having but a
side-view into the Corso. Considering, however,
that all the hotels and other apartments are en-
gaged for the holy week, we may think ourselves
well off. We walked in the Piaza di Spagna,
engaged a valet-de-place, &c.

Saturday, March 23. Rome. — M went to

synagogue, where he saw Dr. L. Loewe, who had

ROME. 157

returned from the Holy Land, Egypt, and Greece.
We walked to the Corso, to the Monte Pincione,
and to the Forum, and also visited various
churches and monuments, not returning till three
o'clock. We read till dinner-time, when some
gentlemen paid us visits ; they conversed on the
state of the community, and the disadvantages
under which they laboured, though their situa-
tion, under the present pope, is somewhat ame-
liorated, his holiness being more favourably in-
clined towards the Israelites than former apostolic
potentates. They have schools for various
branches of education, but those who follow pro-
fessions cannot practise out of the Ghetto ; such
is generally the existing illiberality in this cele-
brated city. Two or three who are skilled in medi-
cine and surgery are visited in that situation by
Roman Catholics for the ad vantage of their advice.
Sunday, March 24. Rome. — This morning we
had the gratification of witnessing the imposing
ceremony of the Pope's blessing the palms. We
arrived at St. Peter's church at nine o'clock.
It seemed as if all the world were assembled to
behold the scene. Among the concourse of spec-
tators were innumerable English of distinction,
as well as foreigners from all parts of Europe.

M wore his uniform, and graced the dress

as well as any of the numerous military officers

158 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

present. The church was hung with rich tapestry
for the fete, but I greatly preferred the mosaic
pictures and beautiful monuments and statues.
We took our places according to our tickets, the
ladies separate from the gentlemen. At this
early hour I found most of the seats engaged,
and but for the polite interference of a Mons.

B I probably should not have obtained one.

The numerous clergy, of various degrees of rank,
the sumptuousness of their habiliments, the im •
posing sounds of various musical instruments,
aided by vocal harmony, had a most thrilling
effect, even on those of a different belief. The
procession of his holiness, followed by the car-
dinals and foreigners of rank, all attired in costly
costume, rich clothes, point-lace, gold and silver
embroidery, and uniforms of different nations and
regiments, commanded general admiration. The
pope having taken his seat, each gentleman,
according to his rank and station, knelt in rota-
tion, and presented his palm-branch to receive
the benediction of his holiness. High mass was
then performed — the pope advancing to the
baldachin was anointed by his cardinals. About
one the grand procession departed in the same
state as at the commencement. We lunched at
Caft Nuovo.
Monday, March 25. Rome. — We breakfasted at

EOME. 159

Cafe, Nuovo, and took some cold refreshment with
us, for a visit to Grotta Ferrata, distant about ten
miles, and where there was an annual fair of
wearing apparel, crockery, bijouterie, and all the
usual appurtenances of such resorts.

It was most numerously attended, as well by
country folks as foreigners of all nations. The
females were fat and well-favoured, and graced
the equestrian attitude in which many of them
attended the rural fete. Their dark tresses,
plaited under a scarlet or white head-dress, looked
extremely becoming, and most were decorated
with gold ear-rings, and rings on their ringers,
and smartly embroidered muslin aprons. We
entered one of the shows, where rope-dancing
and feats of strength were exhibited.

The church of S. Maria, belonging to the
Greeks, was thronged, and we heard as much
English spoken as Italian. It possesses some
good frescos by Domenichino, the one of St. Bar-
thelemy recovering a child from convulsions, by
putting a drop of consecrated oil into its mouth ;
another, that of King Otho III. going to meet St.
Nil, who receives him at the head of his commu-
nity, merited especial notice. We afterwards
proceeded two miles beyond to see Frascati,
which is beautifully situated and considered ex-
ceedingly healthy, a supposition continued by the

160 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

ruddy complexions of the inhabitants. The an-
cient Tusculum is situated on the brow of the hill,
about a mile distant. Several parties were going
to this spot, rendered so famous by Cato, Cicero,
&c. Our compatriots appeared to enjoy the rural
treat, many of the gentlemen partaking of the hot
fried fish from the pan, without regard to their
new kid gloves ; neither bread nor fork being to be
had. At six we returned home, covered with
dust, although well pleased with the morning's
amusement. We saw Don Miguel, ex-king of
Portugal, at Frascati ; he bowed to every one as
he passed on horseback.

Tuesday, March 26. Rome. — It was a rainy
day, we had therefore a close carriage for the
day's excursion, and were accompanied by Dr.

Loewe, who brought M some notes for our

intended Eastern tour. We crossed the Tiber over
the bridge Molle, constructed in the seventh cen-
tury by M. Emilius Scaurus, celebrated by the bat-
tle of Constantine against his rival Maxentius, and
several other remarkable events. It is partly an-
cient and partly modern. A little beyond, on a hill,
is a small temple erected in honour of St. Andrew,
by Pope Pius II., in memory of the discovery of
the head of that apostle, after it had been trans-
ported from Peloponnesus to Rome. We also
stopped at the church built in honour of the same

ROME. 161

saint by Julius III., as a memorial of his deliver-
ance from the hands of the Germans on St. An-
drew's day. Vignole was the architect. A little
further on is a palace erected by the same pope,
and also by the architect Vignole. There are here
a handsome fountain and some fine frescoes by
Thadee Zuccare. We then drove to the Villa
Borghese to see the handsome Propylse, and after-
wards to the church of S. Maria del Popolo, by Vig-
nole, from the designs of Michael Angelo. There is
a chapel, the cupola of which is in mosaic, from
the cartoons of Raphael, and in the Chigi chapel,
called Notre Dame di Loretto, are four statues of
which Jonah and the Whale, from the designs of
Raphael, is particularly admirable.

Wednesday, March 27. Home. — Mons. B

politely sent us a written account of the clerical

observances of the week, and Mr. J sent

tickets of admission.

We to-day visited the church of Santa Maria
Maggiore, on the Esqueline hill, a magnificent
edifice ; its columns and baldachin are superb ;
we then proceeded to that of 8. Pietro in Vinculis,
remarkable for its statue of Moses, by Michael
Angelo, which decorates the tomb of Pope Julius
II., and for its twenty Doric columns of Parian
marble ; and then to St. Martin's. We afterwards
proceeded to the Ghetto, and having taken an
M

162 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

early dinner, we went to the Sixtine chapel,
to witness the ceremony of the Miserere. A great
number of carriages were assembled, and the
chapel was thronged, most of the seats being
already engaged, but an ambassador with two
ladies entering at the same time with our-
selves, we obtained excellent situations.

The singing was very fine, and I was well en-
tertained. M 's uniform made him bolder than

usual, and we obtained seats close to the screen.
The Lamentations of Jeremiah were sung, accom-
panied by different musical instruments. The
ladies were mostly in evening costume, many
having their hair well dressed, and a black lace
veil thrown loosely over the head, black being
generally worn. The pope was present, also
about twenty cardinals.

Thursday, March 28. Rome. — The ceremonies
at St. Peter's to-day have been highly interesting.
At the early hour of ten we were at the church,
to witness the pope's benediction of the people.
His holiness washed the feet of twelve pilgrims,
each of whom received a new suit of clothes and
a medal. His holiness then waited on them at
dinner, assisted by several cardinals, who knelt to
the pope when handing him the dishes to serve to
the poor men. These acts of humiliation may be'
well intended, and doubtless have some good ten-

HOME. 163

dency, teaching the individual, however exalted
in rank, the virtue of a humble spirit, and that
religion surpasses every other distinction ; but, on
the other hand, the accompanying pomp and dis-
play may be regarded as somewhat lessening the
merit of the action. The table was decorated
with all the magnificence of regal state ; and the
pilgrims, after regaling themselves with every
luxury, were permitted to take away the remains
of everything that was served to them. The
splendid hall was crowded with visitors from all
countries and of the highest rank. The rush was
so great at one time that the screams of those
who could only succeed in making half way into
the hall were truly appalling.

The evening was passed in witnessing the wash-
ing of the feet of female pilgrims, by a society of
ladies of the first quality, who afterwards served
them at supper. The ladies wear a costume,
consisting of a scarlet bib and apron, with a
badge on the right side, indicative of their order.
M — - went to the hospital of male pilgrims, to
witness a similar ceremony, at which Don Miguel
officiated.

Friday, March 29. Rome. — Yesterday I re-
ceived letters from the Baroness James de R ,

and from Emily G , the latter apprising us

of their safe arrival at Florence, the former from
M 2

164 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Naples, expressing a hope that we should not pur-
sue our projected tour in the East, as it might be
attended with the greatest danger, owing to the
warlike intelligence which had lately been re-
ceived from Egypt, leaving no doubt that hostili-
ties with the Turks would shortly commence. We
felt somewhat staggered at this advice from such
an unquestionable and kind authority ; but how
difficult is it to lay aside plans once formed, and
in part commenced ! It is like changing a long-
cherished opinion. For the sake of novelty, as
well as to visit an old friend, we this morning
breakfasted at the Cafe Nuovo. Poor little B —
was no more to be seen there; he was gone to that
bourne whence no traveller returns ! The room
was filled with guests, from the priest to the young
married couple, and the activity of the attendants
kept pace with the demand for colazione of various
kinds. Having finished our repast we took an
hour's amusement in the Corso, and while enjoy-
ing the exercise of walking, gazed at the various
shops, the windows of which were attractively
supplied with abundance of objects to please the
virtuoso, the votaries of fashion, the literati, or
the artist. On our return we wrote letters to our
friends at home, and prepared for the approach of
Passover ; but how different were the prepara-
tions to those I have been accustomed to, when

ROME. 165

expecting the heart-cheering society of the dear
and near relatives who usually enliven our circle
with the delights of friendship, and affectionate
conviviality, on this occasion ; and when we to-
gether endeavour to fulfil our sacred duty, and
observe the holy ordinances enjoined us ! May the
Almighty permit us a renewal of such happiness

in future years ! A little before six my dear M

and I rode to the synagogue. It was beautifully
decorated with rich crimson damask, as well as
many extra lamps for the holidays. We walked
home ; — read the Hagada — the first time with-
out other society than ourselves, and which for
the first time caused any regret, for we could not
prevent a degree of sadness from intruding itself
at this memorable epoch, when thinking of the
absence of those we loved.

Saturday, March 30. Rome. — I walked with
my dear M — - to our place of worship. It was
crowded, and prayers were attended to in a devout
and satisfactory manner. One or other of the gen-
tlemen stood behind my seat the whole of the ser-
vice, an attention which was persisted in against
my wish and entreaty. We returned home to
breakfast, and afterwards went to see six other
synagogues. They all possess treasures of an-
cient silver ornaments, of crowns, bells, &c., two
old sepharim, and the curtains, cloaks, &c., are

166 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

magnificent, embroidered in gold and silver. It
seems the ambition of every member of the con-
gregation, as far as means will permit, to present
an offering in honour of the law of God. The
eagerness to attend us and to show us respect,
is beyond description, and certainly beyond our
desert. During the forenoon we received a visit

from Lieutenant -Colonel and Mrs. S and

their niece. They presented us a letter from
Mr. M , dated as far back as 1827, having re-
served it on finding us absent from Park-lane,
when on our first tour to the Holy Land. Dr.
Loewe dined, and said the Hagada with us, most
satisfactorily commenting on the same.

Sunday, March 31. Rome. — It being late
last night before we had completed the Pass-
over service, Dr. Loewe was shut out of his
lodgings, and obliged to return and take up his
night's rest on a sofa in our drawing-room. Mons.

B called during the time of our prayers,

we therefore could not receive him. We again
attended synagogue, and were received in state by
the deputies, a vast concourse of persons gazing
at and following us. Soldiers were stationed at
the entrance and in the interior of the building,
and presented arms at our approach. We went
into four other synagogues, all of which were
splendidly ornamented with tapestry of rich bro-

ROME. 167

cade and fringe. At one we attended to hear a
discourse delivered in Italian, and it was certainly
of a most impressive character. After breakfast
walked till half -past one on Monte Pincione. Re-
ceived an invitation from the Duke Alexander
Torlonia, to see the Girandola from his beautiful
little palace in the Strada Tor di Mona, opposite
il Castello St. Angela. After dinner we pro-
ceeded to St. Peter's to witness the illumina-
tion of the church and colonnade. The coup
(Peril was magnificent, and the celerity with
which the immense blaze of light appears, sur-
prises and delights the beholder. Chairs are let
to the visitors. Of some of these we gladly
availed ourselves, and were amused till half-past
eight with the splendid and lively scene. We
afterwards rode to Monte Pincione, from whence
the effect was most beautiful. This fete seems to
give universal satisfaction to Romans as well
as foreigners. The streets and avenues were
thronged with people and carriages. I do not
observe any austerity of countenance or manner
among the numerous clergy of this apostolical
city. They appear to partake of the amusements
with the same delight as the other inhabitants.
Monday, April 1. Rome. — In order to keep

our engagement with Colonel and Mrs. S , we

left home at eleven, accompanied by Dr. Loewe,

168 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

and proceeded to the church of St. Ignatius, which
was beautifully illuminated, and much crowded.
Here the party found us, and we proceeded to see
the tomb newly discovered by Signor Campana,
and his collection of antiquities. This gentleman
engages a piece of ground for which he pays the
government, and has now been excavating for ten
years. Some degree of success has attended his
labours, for he has discovered the tomb alluded
to, and which is that of a daughter of Octavius,
called Octavia. You descend to the subterranean
vaults, till you arrive at several circular tombs,
which contain earthenware vases with covers,
filled with bones of the deceased members of
the family, and various friends. A marble
tablet details some particulars of the individual
interred below. Busts, statues, sarcophagi, and
columns, lie scattered round. We also visited
Scipio's tomb, and saw the sarcophagus and some
alto-relievo figures, supposed to represent Moses
and the children of Israel in the Wilderness, and
Jonah and the Whale. We then parted with our
new acquaintances, and went to the fountain of
Egeria, where we again obtained a piece of Venus's
hair, and tasted the water from the spring.

" Egeria !

The mosses of thy fountain still are sprinkled
With thine Elysian water-drops ; the face
Of thy cave-guarded spring, with years unwrinkled,

ROME. 169

Reflects the meek-eyed genius of the place,

Whose green, wild margin now no more erase

Art's works ; nor must the delicate waters sleep,

Poisoned in marble : bubbling from the vase

Of the cleft statue, with a gentle leap

The rill runs o'er, and round fern, flowers, and ivy creep."

Our morning's excursions were finished by a
visit to the burial-place of the Israelites, where
we saw the tombs of poor Edmund Goldsmid and
Mr. Heine. There are several handsome monu-
ments and inscriptions, but, strange to say, the
larger space is planted with vegetables. We
returned to dinner, and then dressed to go to
Duke Torlonia's beautiful palace, to see the Giran-
dola at St. Angelo. Prince Coburg, the Duchess
of Sutherland, and all the beau monde were there.

Tuesday, April 2. Home. — Went to the Museo
nelle Sale del Popolo, and then rode on Monte
Pincione. The evening was passed at Colonel
— 's, where we met a party of scientific
persons of different nations. The piano and sing-
ing were introduced, and afforded great amuse-
ment, it being the first private music we had
heard in this country. Arabesque writing and
Scarabei with hieroglyphical inscriptions were
produced and translated by Dr. Loewe, Mr.
Joseph Bonomi, and a gentleman from Lebanon.
The time passed most agreeably and rationally.

Wednesday, April 3. Rome. — I went with

170 • NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Colonel and Mrs. S , her mother and niece,

to Signer Barbere's, one of the first mosaic
manufacturers, and a very accomplished gentle-
man. There was a beautiful mosaic table that
could scarcely be known from a painting. The
Crown Prince of Russia has ordered one, which
is to be decorated with figures of the most
interesting monuments of ancient and modern
Rome. I purchased a piece for thirty scudi for
a penholder. We then went to Mr. Severne's,
a British artist, who has just finished a large
painting for the church of St. Paul, and many
of whose productions we viewed with much
delight. In the evening we took a drive round
the Colosseum, St. John di Laterano, and St.
Peter's. Great was the contrast presented by
the last-mentioned edifice when illuminated with
thousands of lamps and torches, and when the
sky itself was studded with its resplendent orbs,
and its present appearance, when the heavens
were dark, and when no concourse of people,
no flambeaux, or carriages, with their proud
attendants, filled the vast surrounding area.

In the morning M and Dr. Loewe visited

the several schools and libraries belonging to our
community. They were accompanied by the
deputies, who are ever eager to manifest kind
attention and respect.

ROME. 171

Thursday, April 4. Rome. — "Rode to Signor
Rittig. the artist who painted The Study of the
Painters, a picture which M admired ex-
ceedingly at the exhibition. Having looked at
many designs by this artist, from subjects fur-
nished by the Old Testament, we at last agreed
to purchase the " Study " for one hundred and
fifty scudi, the sum originally asked. The rain
poured down in torrents as we went to the
Port a del Popolo, to take a second view of our
new purchase, and which greatly pleased us.

We next visited the studio of Signor S ,

and inspected several productions of this- admir-
able artist, consisting chiefly of females in Greek
costume.

Monsignor B paid us a visit : he conversed

in a most agreeable manner on several subjects,
and spoke more particularly of our brethren in
this city. His sentiments were evidently dictated
by a kindly feeling, and I did not conceal from
him the indignation with which I should be ani-
mated at finding myself denied all opportunity
of acquiring distinction by the free and honour-
able exertion of such ability as might be con-
ferred upon me by the Author of my being.

Friday, April 5. Rome. — Accompanied my

dear M to synagogue, where several ladies

awaited me. A crimson velvet and gold chair

172 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

was placed in the centre for me, and the whole
interior of the building was illuminated with wax
candles and lamps, the walls being hung with rich
crimson satin, while the crowns and bells of the
sepharim were of chased gold and silver, and the
cloaks of rich brocaded silk, embroidered with
flowers and various devices, and with the arms of
the donor in gold and silver. At the conclusion
of the service, I was conducted down, and re-
quested to walk through the synagogue and sit
in the chair appropriated to the Haham. Embar-
rassing as was the proffered honour, I did not like
to refuse it, lest my doing so might have offended
the kind feelings of those by whom it was
tendered. The prayers were said in a very de-
vout manner, and without the introduction of
modern airs in the chanting. After the service
an excellent sermon was delivered in Italian, by
a senior student of the Talmud Torah School,
a young man of ability, who has studied medi-
cine with great success, but his practice will be
limited to the Ghetto, his religion being an
effectual bar to his more extensive encourage-
ment. We were afterwards shown a superb and
numerous collection of mantles, curtains, &c., be-
longing to another synagogue.

Saturday April 6. Rome. — A Mr. D. from

Canada, and his mother, returned with M to

ROME. 173

breakfast. We were informed that this gentle-
man's establishment is considered one of the
richest and most respectable in Canada. He is
travelling for his health, which now appears re-
stored. We walked up the Corso, and having
looked at the different mosaic and cameo shops,
proceeded to the exhibition to view our picture.
Monsignor B — - passed an hour with us in the
evening. He said it was to be a grand day at
one of the churches to-morrow, and that his
holiness was to assist in the ceremonies, during
which a number of young girls were to receive
marriage portions. An interesting spectacle !
There are many charitable institutions in Rome.
The hospital for relieving the convalescent is
a most valuable institution, for there the poor,
when recovering from severe illness, are allowed
to remain till they acquire sufficient strength to
enable them to resume their habitual labour.
Sunday, April 7. Rome. — A rainy morning.

My dear M has a severe cold, and I devoted

the forenoon to letter- writing, till I was obliged
to make calls. The rain poured down al diluvio,
the short time that I was out. We had a small

dinner-party of gentlemen, and Monsignor B

favoured us with his company in the evening.
He appears to be a prelate of liberal ideas ; cer-
tainly his conversation and manners are agree-
able. He is quite the courtier.

174 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

The dinner passed off very well, considering the
difficulty of making the cook understand our
taste, he being accustomed to use so much oil in
all his dishes. We sent some presents of Pass-
over cakes to several of our friends. They are
held in great estimation here, though in my
opinion their quality is not equal to those we
obtain in England, the biscuits being much
thicker, but of a lighter nature. The holidays
pass on much more cheerfully than the first
evening led us to anticipate.

Monday, April 8. Rome. — Went to the Ghetto

to look at some brocades belonging to Mr. T ,

as M wishes to make choice of some for a

mantle for a sepher. That gentleman had pur-
chased them for his own use at Naples, and

politely offered the same for M 's acceptance,

but that was out of the question. He at last
agreed to part with them at the price which he
had himself paid. I made a present to their
school of industry, about to be established and

sanctioned by his holiness. M presented

the congregations, their officers, and poor, with
handsome donations, in return for their great
attentions during our sojourn in this city. We
received at dinner, at the Hotel de Russie, Colonel,

Mrs. and Miss S , the Abb^ F , &c., &c.

The host provided a very handsome enter-

ROME. 175

tainment. We ourselves could partake only of
sweets, ices, wine, and fruit. It was twelve
before we returned home.

Tuesday, April 9. Rome. — We visited to-day
the studio of Messrs. Gibson, Macdonald, and
Wyatt, and saw some beautiful pieces of sculp-
ture. A group of a Shepherd and Nymph, and
a Venus and Cupid, by Gibson, ordered for the
Duke Torlonia's gallery, are extremely beautiful.
Macdonald excels in busts, and there were many
of the English nobility. It is gratifying to
observe the success of British artists in Rome.

Mr. M brought me a small broom made of

the palm, called the asperella, and which had
received the blessing of the pope on one of the
fete days, having been sprinkled with wine, and
used for brushing the altar.

Wednesday, April 10. Rome. — The gentlemen

from the congregation called, and M received

a letter in the name of the community, expres-
sive of thanks and gratitude. Their attention
has been unusual and unlooked-for, and we can
but wish them, in return, a share of the advan-
tages enjoyed in other countries. It is a sad
thing to behold the energies of the mind cramped
by the utter discouragement opposed to their
development and exercise.

We visited some mosaic shops, and I purchased

176 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

two brooches, and M a set of Herculaneum

plates. Four of the gentlemen of the deputation
took tea with us. Dr. Loewe dined with the
Prussian minister, who started some difficulties
respecting his passport, he having been absent
from Berlin longer than the stated time.

Thursday, April 11. Rome. — Prepared for our

journey. M went with Dr. Loewe to Messrs.

Freeborn and Jones, to obtain a signature to his
passport. It has also been vise by the pope's go-
vernment. The Prussian minister said this would
be sufficient, but he regretted the rules of his
government would not permit him to add his
signature, a return to Berlin being first required.
Dr. Loewe intends proceeding with it as it is.
We left cards at Duke Torlonia's, &c., &c., and
then drove round the Villa Borghese. The trees
are now displaying a rich luxuriance of white,
yellow, and purple blossoms, sweet promises of
the not far distant summer. Nothing scarcely
can be more beautiful than these grounds, re-
freshed as they are by bright and gushing foun-
tains, and everywhere ornamented by statues
and other works of art. The prince was driving
the princess in an elegant curricle, drawn by a
pair of greys.

Friday, April 12. Civita Vecchia. — At eight
o'clock we again bade adieu to Rome, accompa-

CIVITA VECCHIA. 177

nied by Dr. Loewe, from whose society, intelli-
gence, and experience, gained in a recent visit to
the Holy City and its environs, we hope to derive
great advantage. The able explanation which
he gave us of the Psalms appropriated to the day,
and which he read in Hebrew and English, was
very impressive.

The road was indifferent, presenting a succes-
sion of ascents and descents. Within four miles
of the first change of horses, we observed on the
left an ancient circular building, filled with
human skulls, exposed to the view of passing
travellers — a sad memento of our common mor-
tality.

We could obtain but one postillion on chang-
ing horses ; this caused a slight detention, and as
we proceeded we found still further inconvenience,
for the horses became unmanageable. Armstrong
descended, but could render little help, and we
thought it more prudent to quit the carriage and
walk forward for a time. The wild flowers in
the hedges, and the beauty of the scenery amply
consoled us. Magnificent also was the distant
view ; on the one side the sea rolling its majestic
waves, while on the other huge rocks rose beetling,
like a gigantic fortress, erected, as it might have
been fancied, to protect the smiling corn-fields
and valleys that lay below.

178 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

We reached Civita Vecchia at half -past three.
The town, which is strongly fortified, though
small, enjoys considerable prosperity from the
constant influx of strangers, brought by the steam-
boats from different places on the Mediterranean.

We found Mr. T awaiting our arrival. He had

travelled from Rome during the night, in order
to make preparations for our passing the sab-
bath here ; another instance of his indefatigable
and kind attention towards us. Having dined
together we returned to take coffee, and pass the
evening at our hotel, where we enjoyed better
accommodation than could have been expected.

Saturday, April 13. Civita Vecchia. — Some

excellent fish, provided by Mr. T , made our

breakfast equal to an English one. We walked
on the Bastion, and through the town. A new
road is being formed from this place to Leghorn,
and from which both towns, it is expected, will
derive no small advantage. In the evening, in
consequence of several new arrivals, we changed
our sitting-room for an upper one, of which we
were allowed to retain sole possession.

Sunday, April 14. Civita Vecchia. — A lovely
morning ! The steam-boats from Marseilles are
in the harbour, and we are again about to trust
ourselves to the mercy of the waves, or rather to
the protecting hand of Him by whom not only the

CIVITA VECCHIA. 179

ocean but every element of the universe is ordered
and controlled. After writing a few lines in my

dear M 's letter to Mr. G , all was ready

at one o'clock, and having taken leave of our
friends, and dispatched the servants with the
luggage, we stepped into a boat, and were rowed
to the Sesostris, a French steamer, a beautiful
vessel of one hundred and sixty horse power,

commanded by Captain C . At half -past one

we raised anchor, and with a fair wind were soon
out of harbour.

Mr. T— — came on board again to say farewell.
He was to sail in the afternoon for Marseilles.
After offering up prayers for our safe voyage, we
quietly took our seats on deck. There was only
one lady on board besides myself, a Greek, who
with her father, brother and nephew, were return-
ing from Marseilles to Syra, after attending the
marriage of the lady's brother, and passing six
months in France. Her fine dark eyes and clear
complexion were very beautiful, but regret was
depicted on her countenance, the effect of bidding
farewell to the gaieties of France, or perhaps some
object of peculiar regard. Several English gentle-
men, with some French and German, formed a
party of about fifty passengers. The commander
and other officers of the boat were of the royal
navy of France. The ladies' cabin was beautifully
N 2

180 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

fitted up with oak inlaid with rosewood, and a
handsome piano and music-books formed part of
the furniture.

The dinner-bell at four o'clock cleared the
deck of most of the gentlemen. At six the cap-
tain's dinner was announced, to which we were
invited. A great variety of dishes and courses
were served. Felt very sick.

Monday, April 15. On board the Sesostris. —
Passed a tolerable night, considering all circum-
stances. It was extremely fortunate that the
number of females in our cabin did not exceed
three, or the heat would have been intolerable.
The stewardess made the third. Ann was quite
useless, la maladie de mer rendering her incapable
of stirring. She might truly be pronounced not
seaworthy. The scrubbing of decks and hourly
ringing of the bell, the creaking of the rudder-
chains, and heaving the lead, did not admit of

uninterrupted repose. M , not relishing the

double row of cribs, and the number of nocturnal
companions, was dressed by six o'clock. The wind
was against us. I had just taken my seat next
the lady and my dear M — — , at the captain's
table, and made an eifort to break the shell of an
egg, when I was glad to hasten on deck, where
the air and a reclining posture somewhat restored
me. In the evening I took a glass of lemonade,

MALTA. 181

and commenced the study of Arabic, in which
Dr. Loewe encourages me to hope I may be, in
some degree, able to express myself on our arrival
in Syria.

Tuesday, April 16. The Sesostris. — The predic-
tion of our pilot, when he quitted the vessel on
Sunday, that we should be in the harbour of
Malta at eight o'clock this evening, will not, I fear
be verified, the wind still continuing against us.
The weather is fine, but the breeze generally
freshens from two till six,, causing a swell, and,
as a necessary consequence, a most unpleasant
motion of the vessel. Several tunny -fish were
observed swimming about the vessel to-day. We
proceed at the rate of seven knots ; yesterday, at
one time, as fast as ten. The captain expects
that we shall arrive about one o'clock in the
morning. At dusk I had recourse to my cot,
and found quiet the best remedy.

Wednesday, April 17. Malta. — In writing the
word Malta how many feelings are revived, which,
like most of those which memory excites, are
composed in an almost equal degree of pleasure
and regret ! Friends who greeted us here, on our
former arrival, with the warmth of affection, are
now no more ! Many events, filling up the inter-
val of years, crowd upon the mind ; nor are there
wanting sensations produced by the contrast

182 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

between the present voyage of three days and
nights, in an admirable vessel, and that encoun-
tered in our previous journey.

The captain had calculated correctly as to our
arrival. At half -past twelve this morning I j udged,
by the calling of the seamen, and the ceasing of
the creaking at the helm, that we were safe in the
harbour. This was confirmed in a few minutes
by M , who tapping at the cabin-door an-
nounced our arrival. The pleasant and grateful
feeling such intelligence produces, after a sea-
voyage, can only be appreciated by those who
have experienced it. The cabin-maid came to re-
mind me of a promise, that the douceur intended
for her should be bestowed separately, and not be
included in that to the other attendants, who, ac-
cording to her account, would have kept it all to

themselves. Miss F having recommended

us to Dimsford's Hotel, we sent Armstrong to
engage rooms there, and Dr. Loewe went on
shore to order breakfast. At nine o'clock we
found ourselves comfortably seated at a nice
breakfast-table, and listening again to the
pleasant sounds of our own language.

Thursday, April 18. Malta. — At this place the
minds of most travellers are principally occupied
either with plans for an extended tour, or with
the many thoughts which arise at the prospect of

MALTA. 183

home. We learn that the next French steam-
boat will take its departure for Alexandria on the
27th instant, and the English one on the 5th of
May; a long detention, but we find the air cool
and salubrious, far more so than I ever before
experienced it in the month of April at Malta. I
have ordered some white morning dresses, and a
merino riding-habit for the journey in Egypt.

Our kind friend, Mrs. C , has just called.

She is as cheerful and conversant as ever. M

has been to deliver his letters to Admiral Stop-
ford and the governor. Sir John and Lady S

have left the island, the office of judge-advocate,
which that gentleman held, being abolished. I
very much regret their absence, and the reduction
of their income from fifteen hundred pounds per
annum to five hundred, the effects of retrench-
ment. What changes since our last visit ! — how
many have paid the debt of nature ! Poor General

P , Mary S , and her brothers, Lady

E , &c. May we in thankfulness devote our

future time to the Almighty, who has graciously
permitted us to enjoy life still, with some
honour and many blessings !

Friday, April 19. Malta. — Mrs. C , who

passed yesterday evening with us, recounted to
us, all the news of the island, which, like that of
most other places, was mixed up with many traits

184 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

of human weakness and folly. The experiment
of the silk company has proved a failure, and the
mulberry-trees of the Boschetto are all rooted

up, much to the mortification of Mr. M , who

used to pride himself on their cultivation.

We have received a card of invitation to dine
with the governor on Saturday. Mr. Frere called,
as did also Sir H. Grey, and Mr. and Mrs. Bell.
We went to synagogue. Several Turks from
Morocco were there. A chair was brought me
as preferable to a seat on the bench. We after-
wards passed a very agreeable evening.

Saturday, April 20. Malta. — At eight o'clock,
after taking a cup of coffee, went to synagogue.
The building is situated in Strada Reale, and is
very neat and clean. About six families of our
nation reside here, and the congregation, includ-
ing strangers and children, amounted to about
thirty persons.

I was the only female present. In the course

of the morning Mrs. P and her daughter paid

us a visit ; also Mr. A — — and his sons, Admiral
Sir Robert Stopford, Sir Hector Grey, and Mr.
Frere called. After hearing Dr. Loewe's excel-
lent observations on the portion for the day, and
the Psalms, we walked out and met Mr. MacGill,
who accompanied us round the Barracca and
the bastions. We had a few drops of rain,

MALTA. 185

but the dulness of the sky, in a climate like that
of Malta, in nowise diminished the pleasure of
the exercise. At seven the sedan was brought,
and we proceeded to the governor's. On arriving
at the palace we passed through a spacious en-
trance-hall, where there were soldiers and ser-
vants in attendance. Two handsome flights of
stairs led to the drawing-room, where we were
met by officers, who introduced us to his excel-
lency, whose reception was polite and agreeable.
We found assembled Admiral and Lady Stopford,

their son, and two daughters ; Captain P of

the Rodney ; and Captain S— - of the Minden ;
Captain L , and several other persons of dis-
tinction. Sir J. and Lady M , and her

sister (Miss J ), and Sir H. G followed.

The Duke of Devonshire arrived at about seven,
his grace having this morning received pratique,
after his visit to Constantinople. There was a
most elegant dinner, though no display of orna-
ment, the dishes being all served from the side-
boards, and the dessert only placed on the table.
Admiral Stopford took me in to dinner. He pro-
mised to do what lay in his power to aid our ob-
taining a steam- boat direct to Jaffa. I found him
a most agreeable companion, as I did also Cap-
tain L , who was placed on my left. The

Duke of Devonshire had been highly gratified

186 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

with Constantinople. His grace, while there, re-
turned every evening to sleep on board his steam-
boat. He had obtained, with his party, permis-
sion to visit all the mosques. In the course of the
conversation it was stated that war would even-
tually take place between the sultan and the vice-
roy, but that Europe was exerting its best energies
to ward off hostilities. Some mention was also
made of the silk company established here. The
governor said it could never succeed, for the worm
required quiet and cleanliness. The establish-
ment had cost the government some hundreds, and
had certainly proved equally detrimental to the
poor directors. Lady Stopford did the honours,
the governor being a widower. We returned
home much pleased, a little past ten o'clock.

Sunday, April 21. Malta. — After the Psalms
for the day, and my Arabic lesson, we walked for
an hour on the Barracca, but the sky was over-
cast, and the sirocco wind was up. Having entered
St. John's church, our attention was directed to
the beautiful tombstones of the knights, which
form the pavement, their arms being emblazoned
upon them in exquisite mosaic work. In this
church is also a bronze statue of Moses bearing
the tables of the law. We descended to the
grating of the subterranean chapel, where some of
the old masters lie entombed. Queen Adelaide's

MALTA. 187

donation of eight thousand pounds for building
a church was greatly extolled. The structure is
already commenced, and will be a superb edifice.
Her Majesty is expected, on its completion, to
renew her visit to the island. The site is that
of the late residence of Sir John Stoddart. For-
merly the streets were of the rudest kind, they are
now Macadamized, and an excellent raised pave-
ment is constructed on the sides for foot-passen-
gers. For this the inhabitants are indebted to
the present governor, Sir Henry Bouverie, but
the Boschetto is now divested of the trees, which

were its greatest ornament. M is anxious

to reach Jerusalem for the Pentecost holidays.
This would be rapid travelling.

Monday, April 22. Malta.— My Arabic lesson
occupies a great portion of the forenoon, added
to which we devote no slight attention to
Hebrew, and to Dr. Loewe's explanation and
comments, which are most interesting. Lady
Stopford called, and we received an invitation to
dine with her ladyship and the admiral on Wed-
nesday next. Mrs. C having recommended

me a Maltese embroidress, who had received
orders from the Queen for five muslin dresses, I
ordered one myself, and also a pelerine and a
mantelletta. The people are delighted to receive
orders, and work extremely well. In our prome-

188 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

nade we visited a sculptor of the Malta stone,
and purchased several articles, among which was a
portrait of the governor, a very excellent likeness.

We paid a visit to Mr. and Mrs. A , who take

so much pains in providing our dinner. They re-
side in a very excellent house, delightfully clean,
and the rooms are ornamented with drawings by
their son, and specimens of embroidery by their
daughter. They had cake, wine, and liqueurs
prepared, and were delighted at our visit. M—
and Dr. Loewe dined at Sir Hector Grey's, where
they were extremely well entertained, and met
fourteen gentlemen, including the Duke of
Devonshire, the governor, and admiral.

Tuesday, April 23. Malta.— The Winifred
arrived from Naples, bringing sixty passengers.
All the hotels are full. We, therefore, to oblige
the landlady, gave up one of our rooms, with a
proviso that we were to use it when required. The
country is now ornamented with rich clover, beans,
and barley almost ripe. The roads being Mac-
adamized renders it safe for the horses, and not
less so for the good-tempered calassier. The
evening was passed at the opera, and we were
well pleased with the performance of Gabrielle,
but the house was not crowded.

Wednesday, April 24. Malta. — Mr. Frere
invited us to dine with him yesterday, and we

MALTA. 189

were expected, M 's apology not having been

understood by that gentleman.

There was a large party, including the Duke of
Devonshire. We visited the ornamental marble-
works of Darmaum and Sons. They appear to be

imitations of the Florentine mosaic. M

ordered a small round table of the horse and the
palm-tree. It was a strange coincidence that Dr.
Loewe should have translated the original Car-
thaginian inscription for Osman Bey, who re-
ceived the piece of sculpture found at Carthage
as a present from Sir W. Temple. We dined at
Admiral Stopford's. The party, consisting of
about twenty persons, was extremely agreeable
and elegant. There was also an evening party.
Many expressed a desire to make the tour which
we ourselves have in contemplation. Dr. Loewe
was requested to translate some Turkish writing
on a China cup ; and Lady Stopford was so well
pleased, that several small mummies were handed
to him for an explanation of their hieroglyphical
inscriptions, and which he immediately gave.
Captain Fisher said, if I would obtain the
admiral's permission he should be delighted to
take us in his ship, the Asia, to Syria, and ac-
company us to Jerusalem.

Thursday, April 25. Malta. — We took a drive
to Civita Victoriosa, to return the visit of Lady

190 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

L and her daughters. The house is pleasantly

situated in the docks. In the square is a monu-
ment surmounted by a statue of victory. But an
object far more attractive than any of these mute
solicitors of attention, was a beautiful little boy,
who, walking on the terrace with his Maltese
nurse, answered in his countenance, not unfit-
tingly, to our weak notions of an angel.

Several line-of-battle ships sailed early this

morning. Mr. F , who called on us, while

speaking of the Campagna di Roma, and the stag-
nant waters in the neighbourhood, the probable
cause of the malaria in hot seasons, observed,
that from the volcanic nature of the soil the
ditches were soon filled up again, after the most
strenuous efforts had been made to drain them.

Mrs. C dined with us, and accompanied us to

the opera. II Barbiere de Seviglia was very well
performed, for the benefit of the Basso Cantante.
The house was crowded, and the Duke of Devon-
shire was in the pit. There was a violent storm
of thunder, lightning, and rain, on our return.

Friday, April 2(3. Malta. — A cloudy morning.
Dr. Loewe, on leaving the opera yesterday even-
ing, recognized Mr. Roquerbe, the Prussian consul
at Alexandria, and whom he introduced to us
to-day. He gives us very tranquillizing accounts
of politics in the East, and says that the

MALTA. 191

Sultan and pasha will not be allowed by Europe

to commence hostilities. Mr. B will leave

to-morrow morning by the Sesostris, with his
wife and family for Marseilles. The Duke of
Devonshire takes his passage in the same vessel.
We drove to St. Antonio. The orange and lemon-
trees are in full blossom. Long before we entered
the grounds the air was laden with their perfumes:
Nor did we fail to recognise the pepper-trees and
beautiful aloes. The gardener presented us with
excellent oranges, and some of a smaller kind,
called the mandoline, and also with exquisite
flowers and leaves of the India-rubber-tree.
Having returned to the hotel, dressed, and gone
to synagogue, we passed an exceedingly agreeable
evening, Dr. Loewe translating and commenting
on that part of the holy writings in which the
Almighty appears to Moses on Mount Sinai ;
and other passages, which demonstrate the
peculiar favour exercised by him towards his
people.

Saturday, April 27. Malta. — Went to syna-
gogue, and on our return called on Mr. and Mrs.

P . They have lived twenty years at Malta.

Their house is spacious and nicely arranged.
Indeed, most of the houses in Malta are hand-
some, the stone affording an excellent material
for building purposes. On our return we found

192 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

a gentleman from Tripoli waiting for us, and soon

after Mr. and Mrs. L , with her son, paid us a

visit. In the evening we went to the opera to see
a tragedy, the music of which was by Donizetti.
A most delicious night ! the lustre of the moon
reflecting in the glassy waters with silvery bright-
ness, induced us to propose a drive round the
harbour. The good-tempered calassier seemed
pleased attheproposal,and disregardful of trouble.
Sunday, April 28. Malta. — The weather con-
tinues windy, with a cloudy sky, and I am agree-
ably surprised at not having to complain of any
excessive warmth. It is a wonderful advantage
to me. We took a drive to Civita Vecchia, to see
St. Paul's Grotto, and the churches of that ancient
town, where the apostle is stated to have been
driven on shore after his shipwreck, and where he
is also said to have resided some time. We would
not descend to the catacombs. A good-tempered
priest lighted us to the Grotto, and received the
preferred douceur as a most welcome tribute.
The immense number of mendicants, old and
young, who followed us from a place down the
road to where the calasse awaited our return, be-
spoke distressing destitution ; but we were after-
wards told that their appearance did not exactly
represent their condition, some of the older among
them, like the beggars of other countries, being

MALTA. 193

suspected of having made a profitable traffic with
their lamentations and petitions. The cholera
had worked fearful ravages among these unfor-
tunates.

The French consul sent Dr Loewe the Smyrna
newspapers, and it distressed us to observe in that
of the 14th April, a report that the plague had
broken out at Jerusalem, and that many signs of
war were beginning to present themselves. The
feelings which arose at the contemplation of this
intelligence reminded us forcibly of former anxie-
ties excited as we looked towards Eastern climes.

Monday, April 29. Malta. — Received an invi-
tation to dine with Sir Robert and Lady Stopford,
which we declined. The Blazer arrived to-day
from Alexandria, with dispatches from India ; but
before the vessel entered the harbour the letters
and dispatches were removed into another ship,
and immediately forwarded to Marseilles, without
waiting for the Malta letters. A conjecture is thus
awakened that some important news may be con-
tained in the dispatches. Lieutenant W ,

commander of the government steamboat, called,
and most civilly offered his services. He is re-
lated to Mr. S — - of London.

The fall of rain in the morning prevented our
going early to Mr. Frere's, which we had wished
to do, in order to see his beautiful garden at La
o

194 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Pieta, where that gentleman has effected many
improvements. We met at his house an agree-
able party of fourteen, and the urbanity and intel-
ligence of the host gave an additional zest to the
elegance of the dinner, which was served on plate,
and wanted none of the luxuries, consisting of
wines, fruits of every kind, and ices, so accept-
able in this near approach to climes glowing with
ardent suns. The house is beautifully furnished.
Some of the rooms are hung with rich tapestry,
and among the busts we observed that of Mr.
Frere's beautiful niece, now Lady Hamilton.

Tuesday, April 30. Malta. — The Megara,
English steamboat, arrived this morning from
Corfu. It is by this vessel that we purpose
taking our passage to Alexandria ; and if permis-
sion can possibly be obtained, to be landed by it
afterwards at Jaffa. The granting of this favour
rests with Admiral Sir John Louis, with whom
we dine on Thursday ; and on which occasion I
shall not neglect to urge the best arguments in my
power to obtain this much-desired accommodation.
There is much difficulty in the way, the steam-
boats being as regular as mail-coaches.

Prince George of Cambridge arrived this morn-
ing from Gibraltar, and his presence has diffused
universal gaiety through Valetta. The royal
standard floats proudly again on the palace. No-

MALTA. 195

thing could be more lively than the scene pre-
sented, as the prince rode down the Strada Reale,
accompanied by the governor and a numerous
band of officers, while the streets were crowded
with spectators, and the blue sky in all its bril-
liancy seemed like a beautiful canopy crowning
the spectacle. The prince looks remarkably well.
He intends remaining here ten days, and then
proceeding to Constantinople.

The Megara will leave on Friday next. We
have, therefore, begun our preparations in earnest.
May the Almighty grant us a safe and propitious
voyage !

During a ride to La Pieta this morning, we
felt the whole charm of the season. The country
was clothed in the loveliest verdure, and the
French honeysuckle, lupa, or clover, cultivated
here as forming useful food for cattle, shone
with peculiar richness of hue. The barley has im-
proved astonishingly within the last three days,
and already appears nearly ripe for the scythe.

M went on board the Megara, which is a very

fine ship, and Captain W kindly came to

say that he had engaged the best cabin for us.

At the opera, to which Miss P accompanied

us, the Barbiere di Seviglia was performed to a
crowded audience ; Prince George and other per-
sons of distinction being present. On our return
o 2

196 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

we found the " Times" newspaper. It speaks in
a warlike tone.

A watch-tower in the quarantine harbour has
two expressive symbols — on one side an eye, on
the other an ear !

Wednesday, May 1. Malta. — The first report
we heard this morning, after arranging the clothes
requisite for our Eastern journey, was, that the
plague raged at Jerusalem, and that the gates
of the city were consequently closed. This
news excited no slight uneasiness. Dr. Loewe,

immediately wrote to Mr. S , from whom

he had heard the report, to ascertain more
certainly the grounds on which it rested. We
paid a visit to Mr. and Mrs. L ; and pre-
vious to taking our departure a large bunch of
ostrich feathers was brought into the room, and
I was requested to accept them. After many ex-
cuses on my part I was suffered to decline the
pressing offer of the whole, provided I would allow
three to be prepared for me against my return.

On completing our farewell calls we took a boat
to the quarantine harbour, to speak to the captain

of the Blazer, Mr. W , in the hope of obtaining

information from Mr. and Mrs. F , passengers

from Egypt and Syria. We found them at the
Lazaretto, and the account they gave tended
greatly to tranquillize our minds respecting the

MALTA. 197

plague, though they stated that the gates of the
city had been closed when they arrived at Jeru-
salem, and that they were obliged to perform
quarantine.

Their description of the sufferings of the peo-
ple, especially of those of our own nation, was cal-
culated to excite the most painful feelings. Some,

they stated, were almost starving, and Mr. F

had himself witnessed instances of the cruel
tyranny exercised against them by the Turks.
Both this gentleman and his lady were extremely
obliging, offering to afford us any information in
their power, and already giving us that which is
likely to prove of no slight value.

M , still not free from alarm, remarked that

he should leave me here, in case the information
proved true respecting the plague, and pursue his
journey to the Holy City alone. This I peremp-
torily resisted, and the expressions of Ruth fur-
nished my heart at the moment with the language
it most desired to use. " Entreat me not to leave
thee, or to return from following after thee ; for
whither thou goest I will go, and where thou
lodgest I will lodge ! "

Thursday, May 2. Malta. — Went to syna-
gogue to implore the blessing of the Almighty,
and that his presence and favour may secure us
a safe and speedy voyage. At an early hour in

198 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

the forenoon we paid our farewell visits, and then,
took a boat to carry a bouquet and some news-
papers to Mr. and Mrs. F . The former had

written us a long letter of instruction and advice,
with tracks and accounts of the route he had
pursued in Syria. He strongly recommends our
taking a supply of wine and spirits from this
place, such articles being of essential importance
in the desert.

We next proceeded to the custom-house stairs,

to keep an engagement with Sir John L ,

who had offered to accompany us in a visit to
the royal naval hospital. The gallant admiral
soon made his appearance, and we were delighted
at surveying the establishment so admirably fit-
ted to secure the comfort of the brave men who
may become its inmates. Sir John showed us the
most kind attention, and presented me with some
large blossoms of the cactus growing wild on the
banks, and a quantity of scarlet geranium. He
then conveyed us in his boat across the harbour,
where the calesse awaited our return. Lady
Louis had kindly written to say that a covered
boat would be in waiting for us at seven o'clock,
at which hour we were engaged to dine at their
hospitable house. We passed a most agreeable
evening.

Friday, May 3. Malta. — We were gratified

MALTA. 199

by receiving, this morning, before our departure
for Alexandria, two letters, the one from Mrs.

M , and the other from my sister H .

More acceptable farewell presents could not have
been brought us, for they announced the well-
being of those who are so dear to our thoughts.
Nor were they to be disregarded by us as signs
of the goodness of the Almighty at this moment
of our departure. Oh, how manifold is his loving-
kindness ! how numberless his mercies ! May we
ever strive to be deserving of their continuance !

Mrs. C , who came before breakfast to take

leave, brought us a present of orange-syrup and

marmalade, made by herself. M went to pay

his respects to the governor and Prince George.
They both kindly inquired after me. The latter
expressed his regret at not seeing me previously
to setting off. He had suffered from the measles
while at Gibraltar.

All the arrangements being made, Henry, our
valet-de-place, went with us in the boat, to which
we were followed by the nichts mangiare, lame,
blind dumb, &c. A quarantine boat rowed
alongside till we reached the Megara, where the
captain was in readiness to receive us. He
politely welcomed us to his ship, and handed me
to the cabin, where luncheon was prepared ; but
the rolling of the vessel, contrary winds, and

200 NOTES' FROM A JOURNAL.

the fumes of the viands, compelled my immediate
resort to the deck, where I remained till about
four o'clock, when the heaving of the sea caused
the usual maladie, and my berth was the remedy.
Saturday, May 4. On board the Megara. —
Suffering from the effects of contrary wind, I was
obliged to remain in my cot all day. Poor dear

M passed the night on the sofa in the large

cabin, which the captain calls the best place in
the ship; but as he was not able to relieve himself
of his clothes he was not very capable of enjoy-
ing it. Dr. Loewe is in a helpless state, not able
to speak a word, or to look up. Ann is des-
perately ill; Armstrong the only one of our
party in a tolerable situation. I find the servants
on board remarkably civil and attentive, and we
can procure every requisite, and even luxury. We
have altogether about twelve passengers, but the
ladies' cabin is fortunately entirely at our service.
The captain names about six different sorts of
wine that we can call for, and cura9oa with
maraschino are handed round after dinner; mar-
malade and other preserves at breakfast ; and if
the wind were to change so as to ease the rolling
of the ship, we should have nothing to wish for.
The bell rings every half hour, and the speed of
the vessel, which is tried every hour, is at the
rate of eight knots.

ON BOARD THE MEGARA. 201

Sunday, May 5. On board the Megara.—A.
change of the wind in our favour has been
followed by an improvement in our feelings. At

the persuasion of M , who calls me an admiral,

after having honoured me with the title of general
on land, I was on deck by nine o'clock. I was
not able, however, to conquer any part of a
nice breakfast ; but a luncheon of chicken did
not escape the attacks of returning appetite. It
was highly pleasing to see the nicely-dressed
crew mustered in review before being called to
prayers. Their straw hats, blue jackets, white
trousers, and smart shoes honoured the sabbath
day. They followed the captain and officers
down to the cabin, where prayers and a sermon
were delivered by the captain, the whole occupy-
ing about an hour. The gentlemen passengers
also attended.

The power of the sun to-day, the thermometer
rising, induced the captain to put up an awning.
The heat at one time rose to a hundred degrees.

Several birds were seen flying about all day —
doves, yellow-breasts, and swallows. Some of
the fatigued little creatures were captured by the
crew in the evening, but they promise to set them
at liberty to-morrow, instead of making them
into a savoury pie. I was obliged to take refuge
on the mattrass on deck, about five o'clock ; but

202 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

soon after was advised, on account of the damp
to descend to my cot, where I was followed by
Ann, as poorly as myself.

Monday, May 6. On board the Megara. I
hear the call of eight knots with pleasure, a sound
of this kind being far more pleasing than that of
the creaking of the tiller, or of the people's foot-
steps on deck. The fall of rain obliged us to
breakfast in our cabin. An agreeable conversa-
tion afterwards took place with two gentlemen
who joined us, and who are going to Jerusalem.

One of them, Mr. C , has already made the

tour of Egypt : Dr. Loewe met him at Thebes.
We are very desirous of being landed at Jaffa in-
stead of Beyrout, should that place be free from
plague, otherwise we should have to perform
quarantine before entering the Holy City. The
captain is not certain whether or not it may be
possible to accede to our wishes, the issue depend-
ing on the arrival of the Indian mail. The whole
table is strewed with maps of Egypt and Syria.
We have an Egyptian on board, with whom Dr.
Loewe carries on long conversations in Arabic. I
was quite proud of being able to speak two or
three words in that language ; and the Egyptian
gentleman seemed as astonished as my instructor

was pleased. M gave a look of approbation.

We enjoyed a fine roast turkey for dinner in the

ON BOARD THE MEGARA. 203

cabin, and joined the captain and other gentlemen
at tea, who were pleased at the addition to their
party. The log was twice heaved during the
evening. A change has been experienced in the
weather, the thermometer standing at only sixty
degrees, as great as might have been witnessed
in England.

Tuesday, May 7. On board the Megara. —
The doctor of the ship, at M 's suggestion, pre-
scribed for me. A Maltese woman passenger, with
her little son and daughter, are going to Jaffa,
after touching at Beyrout, to meet her husband,
who is guardiano there. Dr. Loewe is copying
one of Arrowsmith's maps of Syria, belonging to

Mr. T , in an excellent manner for M .

The order and quiet preserved on board is so
great, that not a word from the men is heard. All
is still, except when they heave the lead or the
log. The crew consists of fifty seamen. We
again took tea in the cabin with the captain and
passengers. In the course of the evening the
captain, to amuse us, showed a paper wherein
were written words in cypher, which were trans-
lated into English by a Dr. H , without his

being in the least acquainted with the characters,
and the translation agreed perfectly with the
meaning of the two gentlemen who wrote the let-
ters. M takes a copy of the log. Mr. D ,

204 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

whom we met at Sir J. L 's, intends proceed-
ing to China. He is very gentlemanly in his

manners, as are also Captain C and Mr.

T , who are going to Egypt and Syria. The

latter, on seeing this book filled so far, offered
to find me one which he does not intend using ;
comparing himself to the young man who, wishing
to be poetical, and write a sonnet about the moon,
could not proceed beyond, " Oh ! there ! " —

Wednesday, May 8. Alexandria. — Again we
are happily landed on Egyptian shores, Alex-
andria being a second time reached in safety.
How can we sufficiently praise thy goodness,
Almighty Power, for this continuance of thy
beneficent protection ?

It was at an early hour that I heard the call
to make ready the anchor — a most satisfactory
sound. At seven o'clock we dressed and went
on deck to have a sight of Pompey's pillar and
Cleopatra's needle, objects bright and familiar to
our memory. So closely did the whole scene be-
fore us answer to that picture in our recollections,
that it was with difficulty we could persuade our-
selves that twelve years had elapsed since our
former visit. Assuredly it is at particular periods
like this, that the nothingness of time passed
is most intensely felt ; but many are the events
which have occurred in the interval! Among the

ALEXANDRIA. 205

most painful, the loss of three dear friends, one
at an age when hope might fairly be her most
cherished companion. But may we not indulge
the thought that this changing and dangerous
world has been left for one of infinitely greater
serenity and safety ?

The pilot now came on board, and we were
soon surrounded by Turkish boats, turbans, and
divers-coloured costumes. The quarantine-boat
then approached, and our bill of health was

demanded. Captain G , on handing it out,

said that it might be taken with the hand ; but
no ! a long pair of scissors, more resembling a
pair of tongs, were stretched forth, and by these
the document was held till perused by the
janissary. When it had been ascertained that all
were healthy, this singular instrument was laid
down and the paper taken by the hand. A
corpulent Turk, the British consul's head drago-
man, came on board, and the letter-bags were
handed out ; while amidst the vociferations and
unintelligible jargon of the Arabs, numerous
boats surrounded the ship, the anxious masters
of which, pleading for themselves, or the hotels
for which they were employed, could only be
kept off so as to afford a free passage from the
vessel, by a copious sprinkling of water.

Alexandria has been greatly improved since we

206 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

were last here. A new palace for the pacha
adorns the spacious square; residences for the
consuls have also been erected ; and railroads
and a quay betoken the increase of commercial
spirit. The landing-place did not present the
same unsightly appearance as formerly, the
ravenous dogs and other disgusting objects being
no longer to be seen.

The donkeys in waiting brought us to Hill's
hotel, fitted up with Eastern luxury. Nothing
could exceed the surprise of the guides on my
addressing them in Arabic. The poor laden
camel patiently trod its way, nor were we so
alarmed now that we had not so many narrow
streets to pass. It was with great pleasure that
we learned that the city was perfectly healthy,
and Mr. Hill's hotel furnishing us with every
comfort, we sat down to our breakfast, consisting
of fish, omelet, eggs, preserves, and tea, with very
pleasurable feelings.

Renewed reports prevail respecting the exist-
ence of the plague in the vicinity of Jerusalem
and at Jaffa, not unaccompanied with others of
hostilities, which are said to have actually com-
menced between the Sultan and the Viceroy,
the troops of the former having actually passed
the Euphrates, while in the midst of the agita-
tion thus created, every pass and mountain-
gorge furnishes its troop of banditti.

ALEXANDRIA. 207

Count C paid us a visit, and the calls of

other persons occupied our time till past seven
o'clock. A Turkish saddle was brought us to
look at — its price was forty pounds.

Thursday, May 9. The Megara. — Arose at
five o'clock in order to be in readiness for
the ship, which was appointed to leave at nine.
The donkeys having been brought to the door,
Mrs. Hill had her own saddle put on that which
was to proceed with me. A cool pleasant morn-
ing rendered the ride agreeable ; and while
M— - stopped at Mr. T 's I entered a book-
seller's with Dr. Loewe to inquire for an Arabic
Dictionary ; but the interior of this poor library
did not contain that for which we sought.

Having passed the square, the extensive house
of the governor, and those of the consuls, we at
length arrived at the custom-house, where one of
the young officers of the Megara was in waiting
to conduct us to the boat, which, after giving the
Arabs bakshish for their donkeys, we entered,
casting a momentary glance at the troops that
were being drilled on the quay, and which con-
sisted mainly of youths, some of them not more
than thirteen or fourteen years of age, utterly
incapable of active warfare, yet destined for
various parts of Upper Egypt, and to act as the
defenders of their country's independence.

208 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

We were soon brought alongside the Megara,

where Captain G was waiting to receive us.

Again we found ourselves on board this very
comfortable steamboat, which we had only so
recently quitted ; and so soon are feelings of
attachment formed to that which has inspired a
sense of security amid scenes or circumstances of
excitement, that it appeared to us, on entering
the vessel, as if we were returning to a home.

Our party was reduced in number, Mr. D —
and six other passengers were left at Alexandria ;

our new Arabian cook, Ibrahim B , and a

French gentleman, being the only persons who
had come on board to occupy their place. Several
Turkish men-of-war were lying at anchor near
us, and while the ship was being prepared, I
amused myself with watching the manoeuvres
of their marines, and those of the Egyptian boats
which, crowded with merchandise, surrounded
our vessel. I purchased a mother-of-pearl shell,
with St. George and the Dragon carved on it.

A pilot now came on board and mounted the
paddle-box with our commander ; but he did not
appear very attentive to his business, it being
found necessary several times to call him to order,
and even to threaten him with a report to the
pacha. When complaints of this kind are made,
his highness does not hesitate to have the offender

ON BOARD THE MEGARA. 209

shot. The somewhat dangerous nature of the
harbour renders this severity necessary. We
soon, however, cleared it, and began to feel the
heavy rolling of the waves without.

Friday, May 10. The Megara. — The ship does
not roll so much, our system is therefore less
disturbed than yesterday, and I am able to resume
my pen. The commander and other gentlemen >
who came into our cabin to visit us, expressed a
hope, on seeing the journal in my hand, that I
should treat them leniently, thinking, as they
said, that at sea I could find little to comment
on but scandal. I tell them that that is never
my amusement, but they shake their heads in
doubt.

We are just passing a Turkish sailing-vessel,
which left Alexandria a day before us. This is
the advantage of steam. It is a cause of thank-
fulness to the Almighty that we are far better
able this evening to attend to our religious duties
than last Friday, when we were compelled to
keep our cots.

Saturday, May 11. Bey rout. — At an early
hour the land of Syria was in view, and at seven
o'clock the anchor was cast in the Bay of Beyrout.
We were soon on deck, and magnificent was the
scene presented to our view. Immediately before
us rose the lofty mountains of Lebanon, precipi-
p

210 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

tous, and crowned with snow, in strange contrast
with the yellow, barren shore, and in stranger still
with the glowing sky and the dazzling rays of the
sun, which threw their effulgence far and wide
over every object that the eye could reach,
wrapping the town of Zidon itself in a blaze of
morning splendour.

For a moment my thoughts were occupied with
Lady Stanhope, but they were dissipated by the
appearance of the quarantine-boats. The bill of
health was received this time, not by a pair of
large pincers, but in a wooden box, and so con-
veyed to the authorities, the commander himself
accompanying the mail. Several Turks came on
board, and new passengers, who intended return-
ing by the Megara to Alexandria. Among them
were two French princes.

We remained some time on deck admiring the
prospect of the country, every hill-side being
covered with the richest foliage, fruit-trees of
every description appearing in striking com-
bination with the dark green and sombre hues
of the majestic cedars.

Conflicting reports of war and peace, of the
ravages of the plague, and of freedom from that
scourge, still continue to harass us ; but we have
now learnt to feel, that as our only sure defence is
the benign presence of the Almighty, we must

BEYROUT. 211

commit ourselves in simple trust to his guidance
and protection.

Our arrival, it seems, has been long looked-for ;
and a letter, two years old, was awaiting us from

Mr. A . Mr. K paid us a visit. We

had met him at Naples in 1827. He offered us
a tent and any other accommodation. Mehemet
Bey, the governor, also offered us two of his
houses, but we accepted one recommended by

Mr. M , the consul. In the evening, when we

could go on shore, the commander conducted us
in his boat, with six men. As soon as the boat
left the ship the officers and men assembled at the
head of the vessel, and saluted us with six huzzas.
We had treated the men with a supper, and they
well deserved it for their attention.

In our walk to the residence engaged for us,
the description which had been given us of the
wretched condition of the people was found to be
sadly correct. The houses were little better than
mud huts, and the first hotel was a sort of barn,
used as a drinking-place. We had to cross a road,
full of large stones and ruts, and to ascend and
descend numerous hillocks before we arrived at
the country house assigned us as our residence.

How melancholy a proof did all this appear to
afford of the ingratitude of rnan, when surrounded
by the most bountiful gifts of his Creator, but
P 2

212 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

of which he has neither the wisdom nor the energy
to take advantage ! The very olives, and other
productions which in less favoured climes it
demands so much labour to cultivate, here shed
their treasures with spontaneous liberality. Both
subjects and rulers, however, seem to be influenced
in this country by the same bad spirit ; and Ibra-
him Pacha will not, even to save the lives of his
people, have the roads repaired, or the banks of a
river kept up, though daily threatening inunda-
tion. Well-filled coffers are, in his mind, better
than any conceivable improvements.

We passed several groups of Arabs seated on
the ground ; their picturesque costume, the date-
trees, and minarets, with the strange sound of the
language, forcibly reminding us of the " Thousand
and One Nights." The consul's janissary, who,
with his large silver-headed cane, had conducted
us to the place, opened the wooden gate of the
garden, when two Arabian women, a man, and
some children, came forth to receive us, and led
us into the house. M— — , more dead than alive
from the length of the walk, threw himself down
on the divan, which filled up the side of a large
apartment intended for our sitting-room and
chamber. Dr. Loewe takes possession of an un-
furnished upper room, and the servants are to find
shelter and rest where they can. We ourselves

BEYROUT. 213

were soon obliged to escape from the attacks of
fleas, flies, and mosquitoes on the divan, to our
portable bed.

Sunday, May 12. Bey rout. — During the night
the buzzing of the mosquitoes often awoke me
and on arising this morning I found my face
covered with spots, which it required all my for-
bearance to leave as they were.

The wind was high, and on opening the shut-
ters we could not keep them fastened ; but as
we looked out upon the country, our eyes were
feasted with the loveliest scenery. On one side
stretched the sea, blue and tranquil, the mirror of
the sky ; on the other were the swelling hills,
their green slopes studded with country houses,
minarets, and arched walls — the garden adjoining
our own residence being filled with date and
orange-trees.

Our breakfast consisted this morning of many
luxuries, provided by Ibrahim, who seems an at-
tentive and active servant ; but it is too early to
give an opinion.

Mr. C- — , Mr. T , and the commander paid

us a visit. M and Dr. Loewe went to the

governor's, and to Mr. Moore's, the British consul
In the meantime the Austrian consul called, and
remained a long while in conversation. He has
resided thirty-five years in this town, and as a

214 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

proof of the change that has taken place since
his first arrival, he mentioned that he could not,
at that time, shelter himself from the sun with
an umbrella without exciting the indignation of
the Mussulmans, who thought such a comfort
ought to be enjoyed by the governor only, and
their common observation was, " Look at that
Frank with his parasol ; what a great man he
thinks himself ! " Whereas, at the present time,
even the labourer at work on the road carries his
umbrella without notice.

Our hostess and her daughter are very anxious
that I should take a bath, to which they would
accompany me, and that I should walk about the
garden and the public promenade ; but I did not
feel inclined to either. They informed us that

Captain D , Lord P , and several other

English gentlemen had lived in their house. The
daughter said, she wished I would take her to
England ; and a desire was expressed that we
would engage the father as one of our guides to
Palestine. Beyrout contains about two thousand
inhabitants. We have purchased Lord Lindsay's
tent, and three others, one for ourselves, one for
Dr. Loewe, one for the servants, and one for
cooking.

Monday, May 13. Beyrout. — Having engaged
horses and mules for the journey, with an assist-

BEYROUT. 215

ant cook, a janissary, one of the governor's sol-
diers, muleteers, and guides, we went on horse-
back at seven o'clock to synagogue. The rain
and wind at first made it doubtful whether
I could proceed ; but the weather soon after
changed, and we made the best of our way along
the rugged streets, the sagacious horses safely
passing through the heaps of stones, and over the
broken steps, greatly to our admiration of their
caution and cleverness.

. On arriving at the place of devotion we found
a numerous congregation both of males and
females. A small number of the latter wore
turbans, ornamented with silver and gold ; neck-
laces and bracelets, with long thick white veils
suspended from the head to the feet. All the
others were meanly attired, and attested the
poverty of which they complained. They
addressed me in Arabic, which, thanks to Dr.
Loewe, I was enabled to understand, and in a few
words expressed my answer. One poor woman, a
native of Constantinople, spoke Italian. She had
lost her husband, and was struggling hard to sup-
port herself and four young children. She had
therefore a fair claim to commiseration and
assistance.

How thankful I was to enjoy the privilege of
offering up prayers in public, and of hearing my

216 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

name mentioned at the altar, mingled with suppli-
cations for our safe accomplishment of the difficult
and fatiguing, though sacred undertaking which
we have before us ! Reports continue to multiply,
and many of them render doubtful the safety of
our enterprise. The terrors of war, of the plague,
and of robbers, alternately embarrass the mind.
But we persevere, and the contract for the horses
and mules was drawn up by Dr. Loewe, who
made the muleteers sign it by dipping their finger
in the ink, and affixing it to the paper.

The governor honoured us with a visit. Ma-
homed Bey is a mild, gentlemanly person, and
offered his services to us in any possible manner.
He speaks French very well, having visited both
France and England. We availed ourselves of
His Excellency's oifer to ask for an escort of
soldiers to protect us on the way, and for
letters to the different governors of Palestine.
He complied with the latter request, but could
only spare one soldier.

Mr. and Mrs. T and sister called on us.

His time is much employed in educating Arab
children, and many speak English with fluency
and propriety. The English missionary residing
at Jerusalem, accompanied them. Captain C —
and Mr. T- - paid us another visit, not having
as yet procured horses for their intended visit to

KHALDI. 217

Damascus, and their Arab servant having, owing
to indisposition, proved incapable of fulfilling his
engagement. Mr. Moore has procured us a janis-
sary, and in the course of the evening we received
a letter from that gentleman, stating that two
persons had lately been robbed on the road, and
expressing his doubt as to our safety, should we
proceed. This caused us much uneasiness, which
was by no means diminished at our finding it
impossible to persuade any party to convey some
money, which it was our wish to take with us to
towns that had suffered from earthquake, and
for the distressed in Jerusalem. Fuller informa-
tion was promised in the morning, but our in-
tended early departure must evidently be delayed.

" In sha Alia ma essalam," was the expression
of the Arabs in taking leave of Dr. Loewe, after
signing the contracts. The receipts were also
written out in Hebrew for the synagogues and
their officers.

It is reported that the Sultan's army has crossed
the Euphrates. The accounts which thus con-
tinually reach us, necessarily increase our anxiety
respecting the transmission of the money, and we
are at length obliged to decide upon encountering
the danger, and conveying it ourselves.

Tuesday, May 14. KhaldL— Notwithstanding
the unfavourable tenor of the news brought this

218 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

morning by Mr. M 's janissary, we resolved

to set off from Beyrout, though it was late in the
afternoon before the money and the luggage were

prepared. At half-past three, Mr. K having

called and remained with us during dinner, we
started on our route. The appearance we now

made was not a little formidable. M , Dr.

Loewe, and myself were mounted on horses ;
Armstrong, Ann, the soldier, the janissary, and
muleteers were on mules. Others being also
employed to carry the luggage, the whole number
amounted to seventeen. A boy whom we had
seen at synagogue having begged permission to
accompany us to Jerusalem, we assented, and
Ibrahim, and his brother the cook, agree to let
him ride by turns, on condition that he renders
assistance, which he has already done by leading
Ann's mule. She has never ridden before, and
in this first attempt has already had two tumbles,
but not to the injury of her person.

After passing a sandy, stony road, we alighted
on an agreeable plain, planted thickly with mul-
berry-trees, and strewed with a plentiful variety
of wild flowers of the richest hues. Here the
carpets were spread, and coffee, water, and pipes,
from the khan, were handed us by the janissary
and Khassan, with all the grace of Eastern assi-
duity. By this time our caravan had reached us.

KHALDI. 219

Several villages were in view on our left ; they
were El Khadid, Abu Abda, Sharour, Shoyefe't.
In the course of our journey we met some per-
sons whom Dr. Loewe recognised as his fellow-
sufferers in the attack of the Druses, and in whose
company he went from Zafed to Acre. We en-
quired of them the state of the country, and re-
ceived a favourable answer. We then repeated
our prayers, and Dr. Loewe, excited by the con-
trast between his present circumstances, and those
under which he had made his previous journey,
poured forth an extemporary Hebrew prayer, in
praise of the Divine glory, and of the power which
animated the scenes by which we were surrounded.

Half-an-hour after sunset we arrived at a place
called Khaldi, and where the bright lustre of the
moon and stars, reflected beautifully on the sea to
our right, induced us to pitch our tents for .the
night. A well of good water was a still further
inducement, and the novelty of an encampment,
the interest attached to the country itself, the
brilliancy of the evening, and the stir in the little
world comprised within the circle formed of our
company, all contributed to excite a strange
mingling of feelings, but among which, we trust,
the most predominant was one of holy awe, and
deep gratitude to the God of Israel.

Lord Lindsay's tent was soon fixed up for us. In

220 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

this were placed our portable bedstead, mosquito-
netting, bags of money, and carpet bags. M—
threw himself down on the bed, fatigued with the
first journey of three hours, though, thanks to the
governor of Beyrout, who had presented him with
a Turkish saddle, the ride was rendered less
weary ing than would other wise have been the case.
The horses had travelled extremely well, passing
steep and rugged roads without making one false
step. The carpets were spread in Dr. Loewe's
tent, the mattresses forming a very easy divan.
Lamps having been lighted, supper was announced.
Ibrahim had prepared some very nice vermicelli
soup and boiled fowls, and we returned thanks for
this first and excellent repast, seated, like our
forefathers, in the land of the patriarchs. The
servants had neglected to bring the poles of their
tents, and were therefore obliged to place their
mattresses in the open air, like the Arabs. We
find it requisite to reconcile ourselves to these
things, for which we are amply compensated by
the contentment expressed in the happy counte-
nances of the attendants, all occupied in the
camp, and promising us a blessed journey, as they
sit cross-legged round the fire, drinking coffee,
and smoking their Turkish pipes.

We availed ourselves of the light of the lovely
moon to walk round the tents, and as we looked

KHALDI. 221

towards the sea beheld the uncommon reflection
of a star, which appeared for a moment like a
bright column surmounted by a ball of fire. The
cry of the Arabs, " Kowam ! Kowam ! " soon an-
nounced that the preparations for the night were
completed, and after reading the usual number of
psalms and evening prayers, we sought repose,
which we enjoyed as well as the snorting of the
horses, the song of the Arabs, or the intrusion of
insects, would permit.

Wednesday, May 15. El Kantare. — An hour
before sunrise the preparations were commenced
for breaking up the encampment. Ann entered
my tent, and her droll good-tempered remarks on
the novelty of the scene, her night's lodging, and
our suite, could but put us in excellent humour
even with the inconveniences to be suffered* in
our toilet. I now found my lady 8 companion,

presented to me some time since by A. C , a

most useful acquisition, having no other looking-
glass but that which it contained. A cup of coffee
and biscuit, with the carpet spread outside the
tent, were in readiness, and while the servants
prepared the luggage for the mules we partook
of the refreshment. This occupied but a short
time, and we were soon on our way, the soldier
and janissary, armed with pistols, canes, and
swords, preceding us. It was the first time I had

222 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

ever carried a brace of pistols, and even now my
horse had a better right to the honour than myself.
I can hardly say which I admired most, the cases
of scarlet and gold embroidery, or the weapons.
Fervently do I hope that my courage will not be
put to the test in the use of them. I fear my
military tactics would not be so well admired as
my equestrian dexterity, honoured though I be
with the title of general.

We proceeded en route, repeating, as we went,
our prayers and psalms, and rejoicing to make
resound, as we best could, the wild and solitary
•scenes with the praises of our God. The sweet
rich flowers and shrubs which adorned the rocks
and valleys, filling the air with the most delicious
odour, were lovely monitors of the benevolence
of the great Creator.

Having arrived at a khan, called by the Arabs
Khan-el-Posta, five or six Egyptian women
passed us, the wives of the soldiers keeping guard
there. Our road conducting us through scenes of
the most enchanting kind, and the breezes from
the sea contributing greatly to the coolness of
the atmosphere, we proceeded on our way with
feelings of deep-felt enjoyment.

In the course of our journey we passed a woman
seated on the road-side, with baskets of mul-
berries and bread, called ragheef, like crumpets,

ZIDON. 223

On asking her if she would let us have some of
the former, she immediately handed them to
us, but would receive nothing in return. They
were no larger than blackberries, nor of a much
better flavour. This gift is made by way of ex-
piation for any sin committed, or on the death
of a friend, and is called by the Arabs, el ehb.

The district seems blessed with fertility. May
peace be in its borders !

How, indeed, can I express my feelings in the
land of the tribe of Zebulun ! How does the
blessing of Jacob forcibly recur to the thoughts !
" Zebulun shall dwell at the haven of the sea,
and he shall be for an haven of ships; and his
border shall be unto Zidon.'

At two o'clock we entered Zidon. We were
met by a number of our brethren, who conducted
us to the tomb of Zebulun, at the entrance of the
mosque leading to it. Having descended from
our horses, we entered the sacred edifice, and re-
peated our prayers at the shrine of the son of
Jacob. To say that I was impressed with the
sanctity of the place would very inadequately
express my feelings. Any place of burial excites
some sentiment of awe, but the antiquity of that
in which we were now standing, the associations
connected with the name and lineage of him
whose remains are here deposited, and the lively

224 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

sense of our own present dependence on the
especial mercy of the Almighty, filled our hearts
with emotions to be likened to no ordinary sen-
sations, even of a religious kind.

On taking leave of our brethren we expressed
a hope that we should see them again on our
return. The Arab at the gate was well pleased

with the bakshish which M presented to him.

We passed some beautiful gardens, rich with the
blossoms of the pomegranate just forming into
fruit, and clusters of figs.

Soon after we reached the river Damur, which
we crossed by a steep stone bridge, and at length
stopped at a village called El Baruk, where we
remained for the night, our tents and luggage
having preceded us, guarded by Saad-Eddin.

Thursday, May 16. Megiadi. — The events of
last evening tended more particularly to demon-
strate the Divine mercy towards us, and to call
forth our devotion and gratitude. Having sent
forward one of the muckarries to apprise Saad-
Eddin of our intention of remaining during the
night at El Baruk, being too fatigued to proceed
to Kasmia, and to bring back with him one of the
tents, the man returned in the course of an hour,
with his legs bleeding and vestments torn, weep-
ing, and saying that he had been attacked by
some soldiers, who wanted to take his donkey

MEGIADI. 225

from him, and had beaten him in a severe manner.
Hhasan, our own soldier, suspecting this to be an
invention, created by the man's fears of travelling
alone, on what was considered a dangerous part
of the road, made use of his dabous, and in true
Arabian style exercised the authority of office,
till the poor fellow screamed like one being
killed.

As we lay on a rug beside the cottage, we were
alarmed at the noise, and thought the host was,
with Turkish despotism, admonishing either his
wives or children. We had no alternative but to
remain during the night without bed, or any other
shelter from a heavy dew and the nocturnal atmo-
sphere, than such as was furnished by the cloaks
and umbrellas which we happened to have with
us, it being considered not safe to enter the house.
Dr. Loewe and Armstrong remained up during
the night, guarding us with pistols in hand, and
the attendants were equally vigilant in case of
attack by banditi. At midnight the black
slave, who had been despatched, returned, having
faithfully executed his mission. He stated that
Saad-Eddin had arrived in safety, with the money
and luggage, at Kasmia, and that a tent should
be pitched, and breakfast in readiness against our
arrival. This information allayed our fears, and
was more satisfactory than was anticipated.
Q

226 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

This was some compensation for our uneasy
night, and the anxiety produced by the state of
the country, our locality, and the adventure of tha
muckarri. An hour before sunrise, after our
usual indulgence of a cup of coffee and a biscuit,
of which our Arab attendants approve, as well as
ourselves, we were again a cJieval, Hhasan leading
the way.

In about three hours we arrived, unmolested,
at Kasmia, delighted to meet in safety, after
the alarms and disquietude of the past night.
Being again refreshed, we continued our route
through Bourg el Howa, thence to Abbassia, and
then descended a steep hill to the valley Vady
Djilon, the richest and most beautiful I had ever
beheld — happy to reach the place of repose for

the night, and most thankful, though M was

unwell and much fatigued.

Friday, May 17. Zafed. — Most anxious to
arrive in time for sabbath, we set off at an early
hour. M fatigued, but solicitous about pass-
ing the Pentecost holidays at a city in the Holy
Land, though unable to arrive at Jerusalem. At
a plain called Nahr Vady Gish, near a spring of
good water, we stopped to repose and take some
refreshment. Protected from the sun by a cir-
cular rock, with trees on either side, our carpets
were spread, Ibrahim preparing the soup and

ZAFED. 227

chickens. During our repast we perceived two
gentlemen approaching us. They proved to be
deputies from Zafed, with letters from Rabbi
Abraham Dob, Awaritsch, and others, welcoming
and complimenting us in the most enthusiastic
terms. These gentlemen had travelled all night
for the purpose of expressing their delight at our
arrival, and delivering their letters from the chief
Hhakham. They presented us with two bottles
of their wine, which we found very salutary. In
the mean time some other travellers approached
us, and expressed their pleasure at seeing us in
their country, in terms equally enthusiastic and
complimentary. They were on their way to St.
Petersburg. Next arrived a foot Arab messen-
ger from Tiberias, bringing letters from Rabbi
Israel and another gentleman, inviting us to their
house. The former stated, that he would have
come himself had he not been prevented by ill-
ness. We then wrote answers to letters we had
received and continued our route over mountains,
rocks, and plains. Within two hours of Zafed
two of the Portuguese community met us on the
road, and delivered an address, which was suit-
ably answered. We were then met by a great
number of the congregation, both young and old,
rich and poor, with dancing and shouting of
praise, clapping of hands, sounding the Darra-
Q 2

228 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

buka, and singing. These were honours far sur-
passing our expectation or imagination. At the
sight of the hill, on the summit of which stood the
town of Zafed, how did our hearts expand with
joy and thankfulness ! but the apparently never-
ending ascent somewhat diminished the delight,

my dear M being almost exhausted with

fatigue. Every moment we turned to look at the
sun— it was still high, and we had every en-
couragement for exertion. All our muckarries
and janissaries were now en avant, forming, in
single file, a pretty considerable number. At
length we could observe the tops of the houses,
covered with men, women and children. Some
guns were fired — joyfully our people received
permission to return the salute. All being armed,
the pistols and guns were fired off one after the
other. The Rev. Abraham Dob and other Hha-
khamim then came part of the way to welcome us.
One of the others, less aged, descended from his
steed, and this highly respected and venerable
rabbi, after addressing us in warm and affec-
tionate terms, was assisted to remount, and con-
ducted back by his friends. Dr. Loewe, who was
recognised by numberless friends, from last year's
acquaintance, was almost overpowered by their
salutations and welcome. All the inhabitants
had collected together at the entrance of the town,

ZAFED. 229

or rather the ruins, for the visitation of the late
earthquake had indeed worked desolation, though
at this juncture all seemed redolent of joy and
hope. We entered a house appropriated for our
reception, amid the gaze of veiled females, whose
faces, however, were sufficiently discernible to
show that beauty had not been sparing of her
gifts.

Saturday, May 18. Zafed— Thank God my

dear M is rather improved from his night's

rest, though he does not find himself sufficiently
renovated to leave his bed to-day, having still a
pain in his limbs, the result probably of cold
caught at El Baruk, when sleeping in the open
air.

Our house, a new building, is handsomer than
one could expect, from the poverty of the inhabi-
tants, whose resources have been exhausted, as
well by an increased taxation as from the earth-
quake, when most of the houses were swallowed
up, many lives lost, and property to a large
amount buried in the ruins. The following year
the Druses, with unmerciful rapacity, completed
the ruin of those who had rescued a portion of
their property from the late visitation, and not
content with the fruits of their plunder, beat the
poor unprotected inhabitants to that degree that
many were left cripples for the remainder of their

230 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

lives — sorrows which they suffer with more than
imaginable patience, consoled by the reflection
that they are in the Holy Land, and may cherish
the hope of a happier futurity. They are sus-
tained by contributions from other countries,
and pass their lives principally in study and
religious worship ; but as their number increases

and their means diminish, M contemplates

proposing to them some mode of industry for
their youth, whose incapacity and disinclination
might render them unable to do justice to a holy
profession. The cultivation of the land appears
a fit occupation, if protection could be procured
for property.*

Being solicited to attend the opening of a new
synagogue this evening, it being the Pentecost

holiday, my dear M requested I would go,

there being also a very old and venerated sepher
to be presented by the widow of the late Hha-
kham to whom it belonged. I accordingly com-
plied ; Madame S accompanied me.

The synagogue was lighted in a brilliant man-
ner, and decorated with festoons of laurel-leaves.
I had a seat opposite the ark. After prayers the
whole congregation walked a short distance to-
wards the residence of the donor, for the sepher,
which Rabbi Dob was then seen carrying under a
* See Appendix.

ZAFED. 231

white canopy, attended by a concourse of people,
singing, dancing, and clapping their hands, keep-
ing time with the psalmody. A wax taper was
handed to me, and I was conducted under the
canopy, immediately behind the venerable Rabbi,
who carried the sacred scroll, while the crowd
which followed continued their dancing, singing,
and clapping of hands. I trembled amidst this
most novel, imposing, and joyous scene, lest I
might set fire to the canopy, by the flaring taper
which I carried in my hand, or drop any wax on
the white silk, a spot or two being already visi-
ble on the robes of the benevolent and kind-
hearted R. Abraham Dob.

The procession was conducted round our house

in order that M might enjoy the gratifying

sight. He was seated at the window, being
warned of its approach by the shouts and joyful
voices of the people. Having paused for a few
seconds we returned to the synagogue in the same
manner, and the se'pher was deposited in the ark,
while appropriate prayers were chanted, followed
by hymns and clapping of hands, and the dance
as before. How was I struck with the manners
of the people, whose joys, as well as anxieties,
are all the offspring of devotional associations,
and whose songs are addressed to the Deity alone !
1 felt the honour of being distinguished by them ;

232 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

sitting near the ark and continuing to hold the
wax taper to the Hhakhamim. The whole might
truly be termed the rejoicings of the law. It
was the beauty of holiness in the midst of
desolation.

Sunday, May 19. Zafed. — M , thank

God, being recovered from his fatigue, went to
the Portuguese synagogue, a respectable edifice,
built since the earthquake. It is supported by
arches but devoid of all ornament, the wooden
forms and benches being neither painted nor
whitewashed. A number of swallows' nests
were seen on the roof, and a mind awake to
such meditations would recall the words of the
Psalmist, " Yea, the sparrow hath found her
an house, and the swallow a nest for herself,
where she may lay her young, even thine altars,
0 Lord of hosts, my King and my God ! "

The principal places were again- assigned us,
Hhakham Mizrakhi having his seat near ours. I
observed no seats for ladies in the synagogue. In
that visited last night they were partitioned off
by a close trellis-work. After M had car-
ried the sdpher I had the honour of decorating it.

Breakfast being ended we walked in the olive
plantations behind our residence, attended, as
usual by Hhasan and Saad-Eddin, with their
large silver-headed canes. We had the carpets

ZAFED. 233

spread there, and while seated in earnest converse
two Bedouins approached and attempted to join
in the conversation; but we, with all the stern-
ness of Eastern severity, denied even a look, much
more a word. They then made a similar effort
among the attendants, but with little more
success. Three other intruders soon followed
and we then thought it advisable to return to
the house.

The visit paid by the Druses to this city last
year was not yet forgotten, the smart and the
scar still keeping it fresh in the minds of many ;
and the accounts, so full of distressing circum-
stances, being sufficient to render travellers
having to traverse the road to Jerusalem, jealous
of their safety.

We received visits from the heads of both the
congregations. This occupied a great portion of
the day, and the Moussellim, Abd-el-Khalim, sent
to say, that if agreeable he would pay his respects.
He came, attended by the Cadi and several other
Mussulmans. Cibouks, coffee, sherbet, &c., were
prepared, and as soon as they had taken their
seats, some on the divan, and some on the floor,
our accommodation being on a limited scale, but
precedency and etiquette, of such consequence in
the East, being strictly observed, the tobacco
spread its fumes round the room, and the coffee

234 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

was sipped with all due solemnity ; compliments
and conversation filling up the intervals. The
state of the country, its capabilities, and the
numerous objects of interest which it presents,
afforded fruitful subjects for remark. His excel-
lency said that he was acquainted with many of
our works on sacred history, and was pleased to
add that he felt the value of our visit to Zafed,
and that he hoped that as Queen Esther had
delivered her people from destruction, so the
Hebrews of the present day, suffering in this
land under such accumulated distresses, would be
freed by our efforts. This was excess even of
eastern compliment, and we could only lament
the insufficiency of the means and power to which
it was intended to apply.

Another interesting visit was paid us, and that
by Moostafa Mahhmood, a Mussulman who had
bestowed the greatest kindness on the Israelites
during the visitation of the earthquake, and even
to the risk of his own life. He gave them nearly
the whole of his property, and fought for them
when attacked by the Druses. Every mouth
uttered his praises, and expressed regret that no
means existed for testifying the gratitude of the
afflicted people in a more substantial way. But
the benevolent heart has the best of all rewards
in its own feelings.

ZAFED. 235

Wednesday, May 22. Zafed. — The whole
morning was occupied in receiving the numerous
persons of all ages, male and female, whose dis-
tresses urged them to apply for relief ; and pain-
ful indeed it was to behold the many objects
reduced to so low a state of poverty. It was
found necessary to station guards at each door,
to prevent too great a throng entering at one
time, and the heat and dust being extremely
oppressive, it was also requisite to sprinkle water
over the floor of the apartment several times.

At about three o'clock M came into my

apartment to take some refreshment, the sitting-
room not being very agreeable after the presence
of so many persons. In a quarter of an hour the
crowd returned, as well as the two secretaries
who admitted the other persons for relief. May
the Almighty grant that the plan which my dear
husband contemplates may succeed, so that these
poor creatures may be enabled to gain an inde-
pendent livelihood, instead of relying on the
assistance of other countries, whose contributions
are so precarious ! They all appear to be willing,
active and talented, so that we may reasonably
anticipate success, should a plan be well organised
for their employment.

This pleasing, though fatiguing occupation
finished, we took a ride to one of the most inte-

236 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

resting spots in the vicinity of Zafed. This was
called " Bet Hamedrash Shel Shem Vaeber," and
by the Arabs, ." The Place of Mourning ;" tradi-
tion representing that there Jacob went to mourn
for Joseph. It is held by the Arabs in such
reverence for its sanctity, that they have hitherto
prohibited its being approached by any but
persons of their own faith. So said the sheikh
who had the key ; but he added, advancing
towards us, " I have heard of your worth and
great dignity, and am therefore come myself to
offer my services."

Being accompanied by many persons anxious
for research, we availed ourselves of the sheikh's
offer. Having arrived at the foot of the hill, he
uttered with great ceremony, " Hada el matrakh."
" This is the spot ! " We then entered a spacious
enclosure of buildings, which appeared to consist
of abodes for the living, as well as of those for the
dead. Some modern tombs struck our attention.
They bore long Arabic inscriptions, which on
examination were found to contain the greater
part of the Fdthhah, and the name of a certain Ali,
the date of whose death, however, could not be
seen, the tombstone being sunk too deep in the
earth. Dr. Loewe examined the inscriptions on
two other tombs, but could not discover the date.
They bore the usual words, " 0, Eternal ! Ever-

ZAFED. 237

lasting ! " The tombs cut out of the solid rock,
were similar, he said, to those which he had seen
at the tomb of the Sanhedrin at Jerusalem. Seve-
ral rooms, still in good preservation, were, we
concluded, habitations for the living. Dr. Loewe
entered some small openings in the rock, but saw
nothing except a spacious apartment. At this
moment the sheikh exclaimed, " Look around !
Look around ! " for that was the place where
Jacob wept bitterly for his son! And such,
indeed, is the tradition. A piece of wood was
presented me as a memento of the sacred spot.

We had yet time for another hour's ride, and
it was proposed that we should visit the tomb of
Rabbi Kruspedai. Our guides, however, led us
by a precipitous road up the ascents of one of the
mountains of Hor-Hahar, as they called it, whence
we caught a sight of the Jordan, and of scenery
equally beautiful and magnificent, but, at the same
time, of the terrors of the path, whereby we were
to descend into the valley, and which were suffi-
ciently formidable to induce us to tread the intri-
cate path on foot, rather than trust to our horses.
We reached the happy valley in safety, but the
time which had been employed in the ascent
and descent obliged us to leave unaccomplished
the design of visiting the tomb of Kruspedai.

Thursday, May 23. Zafed. — About nine o'clock

238 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

the horses, ready saddled, were at the door, and
we set off for Djermek, attended by six of the
inhabitants of the town, one of them riding a
beautiful Arabian mare, followed by its foal. The
gentlemen here are all famous for their horse-
manship, and ride up and down the mountains,
and along stony and difficult passes with the
greatest courage. The soldier, the janissary,
Armstrong, Ibrahim, and muckarries formed our
suite. The first part of the way being up a
steep, narrow, and stony path, on the edge of a
precipice, I was fearful we might not be able to
accomplish our object, but the road widening,
and being sheltered by shrubs of the most beau-
tiful foliage and fragrance, our courage increased,

and M proved himself one of the best

cavaliers. On reaching the summit we beheld
the Lake of Tiberias, and, still advancing,
obtained a view of the Jordan, and then
ascended the lower range of Mount Senir, having
Hermon on the left, the eye resting with a reve-
rential feeling on the caverns and tombs which
now appeared in sight, — the abodes of the
learned, — the quiet resting-places of the righteous
of past ages. The son of Kabbi Israel Back was
now seen riding .over the hill to meet us. He
informed us that his father was expecting our
arrival with delight, and trusted that we should

ZAFED. 239

attend the ceremony of naming his son, to whom
we had been invited to stand godfather and
godmother.

The gentlemen who accompanied us gave a
description of the land over which we passed,
and displayed some knowledge of agriculture,
but which, for want of protection, they have no
opportunity of advantageously pursuing. On
reaching the abode of the worthy Rabbi Israel,
a numerous family, consisting of three genera-
tions, came out to meet us, and saluted us with
the graceful and friendly salaam of the East ;
the females, who were very pretty, and the
children, kissing my hands before I dismounted.
The ceremony was performed soon after our
arrival, and expressions of fervent friendship
well supplied the place of luxury and comfort.
The smiles of the infant rewarded the mother,
who was surrounded by many female friends,
well dressed, and adorned with numerous orna-
ments, though the chamber was of the humblest
kind, and nearly unfurnished.

The fete being over, we prepared to take leave
of Djermek, amid the blessings and kind wishes
of the ladies, and other branches of the family.
Some gentlemen attended us on our way back,
and the famous Well of Barak being in the
vicinity, they pressed us to visit it, and taste of

240 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

its waters, but the distance, and want of time,
obliged us to refuse.

Friday, May 24. Zafed. — Immediately after
breakfast, the poor were admitted to receive the
portion assigned to each individual, which was
a Spanish dollar to every man and woman, and
a half to every child below the age of thirteen
years. Orphans and children above thirteen
years received a dollar each. The secretary of
the Portuguese synagogue, and also that of the
German congregation, were present to write the
name of each applicant on a ticket, according to

the respective lists.* M and Dr. Loewe

were seated at separate tables, my dear M —
to present the money, Dr. Loewe to examine the
lists and question the people. They were
admitted, thirty at a time, by one door, and
passed out at another. Armstrong, the janissary,
the soldier, Ibrahim, his brother and the rest of
the attendants, were stationed on the outside to
preserve order.

Vinegar and water being occasionally sprinkled
on the floor, and the people being prevented from
pressing too forward, the business of the day
went on satisfactorily, except that regret was
necessarily excited at the sight of so much dis-
tress. Most of the children were handsome
* See end of Appendix.

ZAFED. 241

This could not be said of the women ; but the
distress and privations they had suffered were
more than enough to have blighted their early
bloom. Those of the better class are generally
handsome, and the men are active and willing to
work, nor would they be less ready to defend
themselves against the attacks to which they are
subject had they a leader, and a proper supply of
arms. We finished this interesting day by going
to the new synagogue.

Saturday, May 25. Zafed. — This has been a
most anxious day, though a day of rest. We
have learned that the plague rages in Jerusalem.
A gentleman who arrived yesterday from Tibe
rias, asserts that he has received a letter from
the Holy City, stating that, within the last few
days, three persons had died of the plague, and
that great apprehensions were entertained re-
specting war. We begin to fear that we may be
prevented from reaching the Holy City, and from
relieving personally the miseries of the people.
But we intend sending a letter of inquiry to Mr.

A to ascertain more clearly the fact, and

whether quarantine is required on leaving the
city. We attended morning prayers at the Ger-
man synagogue, and after breakfast walked out,
and had our carpet and chair brought up the ad-
joining hill, and placed under the beautiful olive -
R

242 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

trees ; but we had not long enjoyed the salubrity
of the air and romantic scenery, when two Druses
on horseback passed us, and soon after returned
on foot, and making their salaam, placed them-
selves near where we were seated. We were ad-
vised to receive them very coolly. They then
took their station behind a tree, and entered into
conversation with our janissary, who was in at-
tendance. Rabbi Samuel Helir and Dr. Loewe,
who had been so great a sufferer by these people
last year, thought it better that we should return
to the house. We heard that two others of
the fierce-looking mountaineers soon joined them.
This looked rather suspicious. In the afternoon we
went to hear a funeral oration at the Portuguese
synagogue, and saw the new place of devotion,
which is not yet finished. The gratification ex-
cited by the beauty of the situation is somewhat
diminished by the fear that, standing as the
structure does on the brink of the hill, the site
of the former building, it may crumble beneath
the power of some future earthquake.

We attended evening prayers at the German
synagogue ; and it was requested, that those
widows and orphans whose names were down
on the list, but who had not received a dona-
tion, should come to-morrow morning for that
purpose. On our return home, we were met by

ZAFED. 243

E. B. Y , one of the learned gentlemen who

had met us in the fields of Kasmia.

Being close to his house, he urged us to pay
him a visit ; but we declined, fearful lest others,
whom our time would not allow of our visiting,
might be offended. Our soldier, who with the
janissary always attends us, thinking his enthu-
siastic manner savoured of intrusion, rudely
pushed the old man away, for which he after-
wards received from M a just reproof. No

umbrage, however, was taken, for the venerable

gentleman paid us a visit in the evening. M

made him a present, and sent also handsome
donations yesterday to the Hhakhamim of the
different congregations, with a Hebrew letter
addressed to each.

It was past twelve before the letters and
papers requisite to be prepared in answer to Mr.

L , and to the communications from Tiberias,

were finished, and some other matters, in refer-
ence to the sufferers from the earthquake.

Before retiring to rest, we threw a stone
against the tents of the guards, to ascertain if
they were awake, and on the watch. Saad-
Eddin, Hhasan, and others immediately came
to discover the cause, and for their vigilance
received a glass of the best wine.

We have had the pistols reloaded, and placed
R 2

244 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

in our rooms, in case of a surprise from the
Druses.

Sunday, May 26. — Thanks to the Almighty we
passed the night without any further annoyance
than the barking of dogs and troublesome insects.
We have been during the day entirely occupied
in completing the distributions to our distressed
fellow-creatures.

Monday, May 27. Tiberias. — From Zafed.
How can I describe the events of this day, or
how express my feelings of gratitude towards
Him who has supported us through this difficult
journey, in health and safety, and allowed us to
receive so many proofs of honour and respect in a
land rendered sacred by the Lord's appointment,
by the great and the learned to whom it has
given birth ; and where they lie interred ; and
by the love and the presence of those eminently
pious men, who still consider that the greatest
happiness of existence is the study of that law
with which the Omnipotent vouchsafed to enrich
His people ?

We went to Rabbi Abraham Dob's synagogue
at seven o'clock to morning prayers.

There was a numerous congregation of learned
men, and they allowed me the honour of deco-
rating the se'pher. Every person who was called
up ottered a blessing, and a prayer for our pro-

ZAFED. 245

sperity and happiness, and for that of the rest of
our party. After prayers the Rabbi gave us his
blessing, as preparatory to our leaving the town.
We were then invited into his house, where his
wife had prepared a breakfast, consisting of
various cakes, coffee, and wine. Many persons
were present, and many new petitions and

requests were made. M gave a present to the

people of Pekee-in, studying the law in the college,
and also one to be divided among the other
Hhakhamim of Zafed, in addition to what was
previously given. He also now wrote the first
three words of the sepher, which he has ordered ;
and the persons present were treated with wine,
cake, &c., as is customary on like occasions. I
hope it will be well written, and that my dear
M— - may enjoy the sight of it for many
years.

The wife of Rabbi Abraham Dob was unceasing
in her kind attentions and expressions towards
us, and the blessings of the venerable Rabbi, with
those of his flock, accompanied us to our dwell-
ing, where we proceeded to make the necessary
arrangements for our departure : this took place
about eleven o'clock. A concourse of persons
would have accompanied us for some distance,
but for our entreaties that they would spare
themselves so much fatigue.

24*6 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

We quitted Zafed with gratitude to Providence,
for having kindly enabled us to bestow some
relief on a suffering and afflicted people.

At a short distance forward, the beautiful Lake
of Tiberias, part of which some of our suite
called Bee'r Miriam, presented itself to view. A
delicious valley then appeared to our right, ex-
tending to the famous village Akbara, mentioned
in the Talmud. After a continued ascent for
some distance we began to descend, and noticed
to our left the rock called Akebi, in which are
extensive caves, where the inhabitants took
refuge during a former attack on Zafed by the
Druses. The rock is also famous for its number
of bees, and when we witnessed the honey
exuding from it and filling the air with its frag-
rance, how forcibly did the words of the Psalmist
recur to our minds : " And with honey out of the
rock should I have satisfied thee." We then
passed the cross-roads, of which the right leads to
Acre, the left to Damascus; and soon after several
villages and valleys filled with luxuriant corn,
interspersed with fig, olive, mulberry, and pome-
granate trees, covered with bright blossoms,
delighted the sight. On the road lay some pieces
of stone, which our muckarries amused them-
selves with striking; the sound returned was
like that of a fine bell ; verifying the saying of

TIBERIAS. 247

scripture : " A land whose stones are iron, and
out of whose hills thou mayest dig brass."

After passing a rich plain called Megdel,
where some English succeeded in planting indigo,
and coffee, found to excel that of Mocha, we
were commencing our earnest prayers to the
Almighty, supplicating His blessing on us, and
our fellow-creatures, when, all at once, the sound
of the darrabuka, or drum, and of the flute, or
samr, with thousands of joyous shouts reached
our ears. Crowds of persons immediately
appeared in sight, exclaiming, "Live the pro-
tector ! Long live the protector !"

Rabbi S , the head of the Volynien con-
gregation, then descended from his horse, and
delivered an address in Hebrew, which was
replied to in that language. The chorus was
then repeated with sounds of music, singing, clap-
ping of hands, and dancing. We were next met
by the chiefs of the Spanish congregation, when
an address was again delivered, to which a reply
was given in Hebrew, Arabic, and German, that
all the gentlemen present might understand our
expressions of gratitude for the Divine mercy,
and for the manner in which our humble efforts
to do good had been received and honoured.

At some distance further, the moussellim,
mounted on a beautiful Arabian horse, and accom-

248 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

panied by many his suite, arrived to welcome
us. He delivered a long Arabic speech, express-
ing his great happiness at our visit to that sacred
city, the source and centre of peace and blessed-
ness. At the conclusion of his address he offered
us his house, horses, servants, and the whole town.
A correspondingly complimentary reply was
given in Arabic ; and thus, during the perform-
ance of some admirable feats of horsemanship,
by the attendants of the moussellim, amid
shoutings, music, clapping of hands, and dancing,
we entered Tiberias, where torch-bearers and
crowds of females awaited our arrival.

Tuesday, May 28. Tiberias. — I passed a
tolerably tranquil night, considering the heat of
the weather and the inconvenience of an Arab
house. Soon after breakfast the grandson of
Dr. Herschell and his brother-in-law came to
see us. They were followed by the chief Hha-
khamim, the heads of the congregation, and all
the officers of the German congregations. Their
expressions of satisfaction at our arrival were
ardent and enthusiastic.

The governor, or moussellim, the cddi, or judge.
Sheikh Said-Allah, and suite also arrived at the
same time ; the former, a very fine looking man.
He stated that he was delighted at our presence,
that he prayed that we might remain in the

TIBERIAS. 249

country, and that the sufferings with which God
had been pleased to visit them, in the late earth-
quake would yield to the hope, which dawned
upon them through our arrival. To this he
added many other compliments, offering to do
every thing in his power for our accommodation,
and saying, that a fete was to be held to-morrow,
in consequence of our visit. Sherbet, sweet-
meats, and coffee, were then handed round with
Eastern ceremony.

The next announcement introduced to our pre-
sence the Hhakhamim of the Portuguese nation,
with elders and officers of their congregation.

A proposal similar to that made at Zafed was
spoken of, in order to ascertain their inclination
to become agriculturists, leaving such as had the
desire and ability for such pursuits to devote
themselves to study. General satisfaction was
expressed at the suggestion of a plan which
might enable them to obtain an honourable in-
dependence. Energy and talent, they said,
existed. Nothing was needed but protection
and encouragement. May the design prosper !*
It was also requested that lists might be made
out of the number of males, females, and children
under thirteen, and of widows and orphans.

The governor sent us as a present a beautiful
* See Appendix.

250 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

gazelle, only a week old. We hope to take it
with us to England. Many reports still prevail
of the plague in Jerusalem and its vicinity. We
inquired of the messenger who brought letters,
and found that these reports were but too true.
He is himself now in quarantine. We have, in
consequence, sent one of the governor's soldiers
with a letter to Mr. Young, the British consul,
and another to the chief Rabbi, in the holy city.

We received visits from the chiefs of Zafed,
who came all the way to show us honour. The
governor sent to invite me to visit his ladies on
the lake, and to go to the bath with them, and
then to partake of a sheep which was killed
according to his order, by our people, for the
occasion.

Wednesday, May 29. Tiberias. — The thermo-
meter last night was at 80° ; this morning at
76°. Our dining-room is arched at each end, and
in the centre is a fountain open to the sky.
Around this fountain many of Signor Abuelafia's
family had their mattresses placed, and thus slept
in the open air. I did not rest very soundly, but
heard throughout the night the crowing of the
fowls, which seemed, as of old, to keep strict
reckoning of the watches.

At half- past four we arose, and went on horse-
back to the baths erected by Ibrahim Pasha, on

TIBERIAS. 251

the banks of the lake. The water is supplied
by a hot spring from the mountain at the back.
These baths are handsomely constructed, being of
white marble, and floored with the same material.
There is one sufficiently capacious to contain a
hundred persons, and two small ones for private
use, with a room attached to each. We greatly
enjoyed the luxury of a bath. Mine was of tepid
heat. Sherbet, coffee, and cibouks were in the
meantime prepared by the attendants.

In the course of our excursion we passed some
fragments of handsome columns strewed along
the ground, and a once strong fortress, partly de-
stroyed by the earthquake, added to the severer
features of the scene.

The houses in the neighbourhood of the town
are in a desolate condition. Many were totally
destroyed by the earthquake, and have been re-
placed by mud cottages, the stones and other
portions of the fallen buildings lying scattered
about the streets. Happily for the unfortunate
people, the country is rich and fertile. Among
the more striking of its wild and picturesque
productions, rises the prickly-pear, gaining a
gigantic growth, and forming a species of defence,
which it would require a bold besieger to despise.

Soon after breakfast, I received a message
from the ladies of the Moussellim, stating that

252 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

they would be happy to pay me a visit. They
came accompanied by a black male attendant,
two female servants, and a black girl, a slave.
The three ladies appeared to be from twenty to
twenty-five years of age. They were closely
veiled, but on entering the apartment the white
veil was thrown aside, and replaced by a Ban-
daneh handkerchief, loosely thrown over the
head, which was ornamented with gold coins and
other trinkets. Their hands were tattooed, and
their nails stained with hhen'na. Mine not being
tinged like theirs attracted their notice. They
took hold of my hands, and expressed their ad-
miration of my dress. I, of course, complimented
theirs in return.

With Eastern generosity, they had brought
with them a fine fat sheep, and I presented each
of them with a Roman ring, which seemed greatly
to delight them. They would not seat them-
selves near a gentleman ; the only ones present

were M and Dr. Loewe, the latter acting as

interpreter. Their conversation was very ani-
mated, and they urged me several times to visit
them, and go with them to the bath, and in a
boat on the lake, but I did not accept the invita-
tion. They informed us that the governor was
about to marry another lady who could read,
and would therefore be able to teach them. This

TIBERIAS. 253

idea appeared to afford them no small satisfaction,
and a confirmation was hence given of the
opinion expressed by Mr. Buckingham in his
lecture, that a plurality of wives was agreeable
to Turkish ladies. I could not regard the asser-
tion, when originally heard as correct ; but the
conversation of to-day has gone far to modify
my notions on the subject. The ladies men-
tioned that the governor never made any differ-
ence between them : that if he gave a present
to one, he gave a similar one to the others, and
that they lived very happily together. They
wore coloured worsted socks of their own knit-
ting, and which it took them six days to com-
plete. The Moussellim, they informed us, had
spoken of me in a very complimentary manner.
He was now in the country collecting soldiers for
the Pasha.

The afternoon and evening were occupied in
seeing the principal persons belonging to the
Portuguese, the German, and Russian congrega-
tions, in arranging their lists, receiving letters,
and holding consultations as to the practicability
of cultivating the lands. Many approved of the
plan, and seemed to have a clear idea of the
vast benefits which would attend its success.

Anxious to lose no time, we distributed in the
evening our donations to the applicants on the

254 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Russian list, and arrangements were concluded for
to-morrow.

Thursday, May 30. Tiberias. — We went to
synagogue, and were accompanied by Signer
Abuelafia. The building is small, but pleasantly
situated on the very borders of the lake. Shortly
after breakfast the business of the day com-
menced with the German list. Several letters
were received from persons requesting to be
employed in agriculture. This is most satis-
factory, as it affords a hope that the people
may be found ready to cultivate industrious
habits.

After the Germans had received the allotted
present, all the poor Arabs were called in, and
each was presented with a gift. The floor was
well washed after their departure, and before the
Portuguese party was introduced. No slight de-
gree of trouble and vexation was caused, as had
been the case at Zafed, by the omission of names,
and some were found reluctant to appear at all.
The wives of persons of the more respectable
class of sufferers did not appear with the others,
but came in two parties in the evening, and ex-
pressed their gratitude for what was done. It
was nine o'clock before we finished our labours,
but the end was better than the beginning.

The fat sheep was killed to-day, and part, ac-

TIBERIAS. 255

cording to the law, given to the priest with an
appropriate prayer. See Deuteronomy, xviii. 3.
Friday, May 31. Tiberias. — I could obtain
but little sleep during the night : the gnawing
of rats and mice, and the attacks of various in-
sects, particularly of musquitoes, sadly tearing
into shreds the pleasant veil of slumber. The
singing of birds aroused me from a short doze,
into which I had fallen, and at half -past four a
nice cup of coffee was brought into our room.
Having dressed, we took a delightful ride on
horseback, and passed the fortress, the baths, and
the tomb of Rabbi Johhanan Ben Zakay, near
to which are those of Rab Ammi and Rab Assi,
and opposite the first, that of the author of the
famous Sheney Loukhot Haberit ; while higher
up the field, towards the north, is the tomb of
Maimonides. To each of these we dismounted,
and at the latter addressed a short prayer to the
Almighty, that such great and good souls might
repose and dwell in eternal felicity. On the sum-
mit is the tomb of Rabbi Akeeba, near to whom
lie interred, it is said, no less than forty thousand
of his pupils, all of whom died between Passover
and L'gBaomer. Themountainlowerdowniscom-
pletely rocky, and here are two caverns, the one to
the left containing the remains of Rabbi Koahna,
that to the right those of Rabbi Jeremiah.

256 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Ten minutes distance from the tombs are
several columns of granite, lying in fragments on
the ground, one alone remaining erect. These
columns are stated to be the remains of the well-
known college Benee Amoodi, which was in its
glory fifteen hundred years since. About the
middle of the ascent is the tomb of the cele-
brated Rabbi Meyer Baal Kane's, who, it is said,
by his fervent prayers caused miracles to be
wrought. The Arabs hold the tombs of the
righteous and wise men in great veneration and
respect. Passing again the baths, the person who
keeps them had opened all the windows, and was
standing at the door in expectation of our enter-
ing: we received a humble salaam from him,
though his countenance wore the marks of disap-
pointment as we passed on. Many a salute was
given us by the Bedouins, in recollection, I sup-
pose, of yesterday's bakshish. Several of the

Hhakhamim called. M received a letter,

with the sign and seal of the chiefs of the several
congregations, beseeching him to intercede with
the Pacha of Egypt to permit them to repair the
walls of the fortress, which was almost destroyed
in 1837, thereby rendering the town, the lives and
property of the inhabitants so much less secure
against their neighbours the Druses, or any other
enemy that might attack them. The Cadi, in the

TIBERIAS. 257

name of the Moslim inhabitants of the town,
presented an Arabic petition to the same effect.
M— - has promised to comply with their request.
A poor Arab woman, to whom we had sent a
dollar, brought me a large plate of apricots, and
some fragrant roses from her garden, half a mile
off. A measure of corn has fallen in price from
five piastres to two since our arrival here. The
same was the case at Zafed. This is in a great
degree owing to the people being now enabled to
purchase with ready money, whereas before they
took credit ; and another reason is, that the barley
and corn are looking most promisingly. We at-
tended synagogue in the evening. Some Israel-
ites, seated on the ground at a separate divan,
after supper, sang several of their native airs, and
made an agreeable variety in the courtyard,
where many extra lamps illuminated the place,
the brilliancy of the moon and stars giving their
own peculiar lustre to the novel scene.

Our hostess has a young daughter about six
years old, and a son about fifteen months, whom
she still nurses. The divans round their sleeping-
room serve for the greater part of the family.
The servants take their mattresses, &c., into the
outward apartment, and arrange them on the
floor to sleep.

We paid a visit this afternoon to Rabbi Y 's

258 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

widow; her husband was a highly respectable
man, one of the most learned and esteemed in the
Holy Land. He had devoted his time, property,
and abilities to the benefit of his fellow-beings,
and his recent death is greatly lamented by the
whole community. On learning our arrival in
the Holy Land, he had dispatched letters to us,
saying that he was very unwell, or he would have
welcomed us in person. He had been ill only a
fortnight.

Saturday, June 1. Tiberias. — Being invited
to become godfather and godmother to an infant
of one of the inhabitants, we attended the syna-
gogue to which he belonged, and then repaired to
the lady's residence to receive the child. She was
already seated on the divan, surrounded by a
great number of her friends. I really could not
imagine how the poor lady could support the
fatigue, cooped up in a small room, which was
oppressively hot. After the ceremony I received

the baby from my dear M , and returned it to

its mother, all the company offering me their
felicitations and best wishes ; lemonade, cake, &c.,
being handed. We reached home to breakfast,
and found the messenger returned from Jeru-
salem, with letters from the British Consul, con-
tinuing the report of the plague in the Holy City,
though not to an alarming extent, and stating the
great distress of the people, their anxiety for our

TIBERIAS. 259

arrival, and the good we might effect in coming.
All this is a source of great perplexity ; but the
desire to serve the afflicted, by every means in
our power, and our nearness to the Holy City,
will probably determine our proceeding.

Dr. Loewe read and explained to us the dif-
ferent predominating opinions respecting rewards
and punishments in the future world, the Messiah,
and the opinions generally entertained relative to
our holy religion, and the origin of the Mishna and
Talmud.* The former was compiled by the Patri-
arch R. Yehooda ha-Nassi I., generally known
by the appellation of Rabbenu Hakadosh, from
the then existing traditional records : Mishnayot,
and communications of R Hheeya, called Baray-
tot. R. Yehooda, seeing the great troubles which
took place in the nation, was afraid that the real
explanation of the law as delivered by Moses, from
one to the other, would be forgotten, and he
put down in short and pure Hebrew terms, all
that he knew respecting the law, or Torah, and
the doctrines of our faith. His work being con-
sidered of great importance, it was also denomi-
nated by some authors Mishne Lamelekh, "the
second to the king," the Torah being considered
the first, the Mishna the second. But tyrannical

* The word " Mislma," signifying " instruction," is derived
from " shana," to teach ; the word " Talmud," signifying
" study," from " lamod." to learn.

s 2

260 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

degrees and persecutions increasing, the pure
Hebrew language was in danger of being forgot-
ten in countries where the Aramaic and Syriac
languages predominated, and hence even the
Mishna required explanation — the different
opinions and discussions of the teachers, as well
as the arguments of the students regarding the
text of the same, and other matters connected
with it, were then collected and published in a
work which was called Talmud (study).

The afternoon and evening were occupied in
returning visits to several of -the chiefs of the
congregations, and receiving visits from the
principal inhabitants of the city.

Many of the Jewish ladies, as well as the Arabic,
paint their nails with hhenna, and the eyelids
with kohhl. They requested to be assisted with
means for building a synagogue, where females
might be enabled to offer up their prayers with
becoming respect to the Supreme.

Sunday, June 2. Tiberias. — Several visitors,
ladies and gentlemen, again came to us, their
infants and nurses accompanying the former.
The cakes and wine we receive are opportune
articles to treat them with; and we apply to
Mrs. Abuelafia to send in coffee and sweetmeats to
the gentlemen, the janissaries understanding the
manner of serving them, as well as the cibouks,
which frequently are passed from one fco the other.

TIBERIAS. 261

We have determined upon proceeding to Jeru-
salem. May the Almighty guard us from all
impending evils! Hhakha*m Abuelafia lifted up
his hands in amazement and dread, when I this
morning apprised him of our intention, notwith-
standing the prevalence of a contagious malady,
the threats of war, the menaces of the Druses, and
the fatigue of the warm season. But the people
are in misery, and have been long expecting our
arrival ; in fact, before we ourselves had deter-
mined upon the undertaking. We have just been
interrupted in writing, by the request of several

of the Volhynien congregation, that M would

hear a complaint made against a man for assailing
their chief rabbi, during his devotions in the house
of prayer. The man was sent for, and the chief
rabbi requested to appear. The charge stated and
the defence made, it appeared that the aggressor,
being irritated at what he regarded as an unjust
distribution of the money, and finding no redress,
in the moment of anger committed the fault.

He was ordered to ask pardon, and pledge him-
self to future good conduct, as, whether his state-
ment were true or false, his conduct was unjusti-
fiable. M afterwards entreated the elders to

observe the strictest impartiality in the distribu-
tion of any money they might receive, though he
had no reason to doubt that this was already done.

We engaged Amin, the governor's janissary,

262 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

to accompany and attend us to the Holy City,
in addition to our other guards. The fleas, mos-
quitos, &c., will make me leave this place without
regret. Several persons came to bid us farewell.
The poor gazelle presented to me by the governor,
I am, with much regret, obliged to leave behind
me, in care of Dr. H. Weissman. It looks
drooping, notwithstanding all our efforts.

At half -past five we took leave of Hhakham
Abuelafia and his lady, and, followed by many of
the inhabitants, bade farewell to Tiberias. The
officers of the governor accompanied us for some
distance, and also a troop of horse with a band of
music, going to join Ibrahim Pasha's regiment.
As we passed through a fine barley-field one of
the reapers approached and presented me with a
large sheaf of the newly-cut corn. I felt gratified
with this Eastern tribute of respect. We were

overtaken on the road by Rabbi A B ,

who was proceeding on a handsome horse to his
farm. He accompanied us by the shortest route
to Eyn Louba, where we encamped for the night.
There we also met the person who had offended
the Hhakham at Tiberias. He came to justify him-
self, and his open and noble countenance certainly
spoke much in his favour. Both these persons re-
mained during the night under one of our tents.

Monday, June 3. Djenin. — Left Eyn Louba at
five this morning, but not till we had taken our

DJEXlN. 263

usual cup of coffee, a most salutary refreshment,
before starting. After riding for about two hours
through a delightful country, encircled by corn-
fields and all sorts of fruit-trees, we turned into

a path which Rabbi A , who acted as our

guide, and was well acquainted with the country,
pointed out as the shortest route. Our luggage
had preceded us, but the rest of the people were
not yet come up, and we judged it prudent to wait
their arrival. Amin was accordingly dispatched
to hasten them, and in the meanwhile we rested
under an immense almond-tree, whose branches
extended sufficiently to shelter us from the sun.
After some time we perceived the horses and
luggage, which had been led by a wrong path,
and we pursued our journey till twenty minutes
before two. Our carpets and cushions were then
spread near a fine spring of water, called Eyn
Djalood, and dinner was prepared, the enjoyment
of the repast being in no slight degree heightened
by the appetite which exercise had given, and
the magnificence of the scenes which surrounded
our resting place.

We had early in the morning passed beneath
the highest point of Mount Tabor, covered with
forests, that breathed the air and wore the aspect
of remote antiquity. To this majestic spot suc-
ceeded sweet pastoral scenes, where the flocks
and herds seem to be fed at the very hands of

264 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

nature, and the Almighty appeared to be pouring
forth the plenty of the harvest, to reward the
slightest efforts of human industry.

Having seated ourselves in a small cavern,
formed in the rocks of Mount Djalood, the ancient
Gilead, how many solemn though pleasurable
thoughts floated through our minds ! " Is there
no balm in Gilead ? Is there no physician there ?
Why then is not the health of the daughter of my
people recovered ? " — Jer. viii. So sighed the pro-
phet in times when the sorrows of Israel were as
yet but beginning. Oh, how does the heart of
the pilgrim cling to and yearn over the later
words of the same prophet, " I will bring Israel
again to his habitation, and he shall feed on Car-
mel and Bashan, and his soul shall be satisfied
upon Mount Ephraim and Gilead. In those days,
and in that time, saith the Lord, the iniquity of
Israel shall be sought for, and there shall be none;
and the sins of Judah, and they shall not be
found ; for I will pardon them whom I reserve."
-Jer. 1. 19, 20.

We left at a quarter past four, this spot so
rich in associations, and where to the eye of
fancy Jacob and Laban might still almost be
seen making their league ; and the fatigue arising
from a hot south wind was allayed by the re-
freshing feelings produced by the blossoms of the
numberless pomegranate, fig, and mulberry-trees

DJENfN TO NABLOUS. 265

which lined our road. At seven o'clock, having
reached a well of good water, and in the midst
of a beautiful orchard, we pitched our tents, and
soon enjoyed the comfort of a nice cup of tea.

We have, every day, had the satisfaction and
delight of offering up prayers in Hebrew to our
Heavenly Father and Preserver, and of reading
some of the Psalms during the forenoon. The
afternoon prayers are read aloud on the road,
and inexpressible is the comfort attending this
exercise of devotion.

Being rather fatigued we retired to rest at an
early hour.

Tuesday, June 4. Djenin to Nablous. — Our
morning's journey led us through the most deli-
cious country, and afforded as much of pleasure
as the heart could look for. On passing the
famous village of Arafidie, where Ibrahim Pacha
gained a signal victory over the Syrians, our
soldiers exultingly pointed out the site of the
battle, and exclaimed, " Here it was that we
thrashed the Hebron people. What pleases God
he does ! The sword of Ibrahim, our lord, is
powerful ! " The road soon after this became
difficult and precipitous, being not only rocky
but in parts undermined. We were compensated,
however, for the inconvenience thus occasioned,
by the magnificent character of the scenery-
hills and valleys, lovely gardens and sparkling

266 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

rivulets intermingling with each other, formed a
picture on which the eye of either Salvator Rosa or
Claude Lorraine would have dwelt with rapture.
Within a quarter of an hour's distance of the
famous town to which we were journeying, we
discerned, to the right, the precipitous top of
Mount Gerizim ; and to our left, the awful
heights of Ebal. Even to the present day the
richest bounties of nature crown the sides of the
former, while those of the latter still bear the
impress of the terrible sentences pronounced
from its summit. As we kept strict quarantine,
we passed outside the town, while Dr. Loewe,
who had been here last year, galloped forward,
and selected an interesting spot for our encamp-
ment, at the foot of Mount Gerizim, and close
to the Well of Jacob. Late events have added
to the celebrity of this scene, so venerable in our
eyes. It was by the Well of Jacob that Ibrahim
Pacha sat, when, having assumed the disguise of
a dervise, he misled the people from Hebron.
On one side of us lay the beautiful plain which
the patriarch purchased of Hamor, the father of
Shechem ; on the other was Mount Ebal ; on our
front, the tomb of Joseph, the place where Jacob
built an altar, and called it El-elohe'-Israel, and
behind us, the town of Shechem, well known, as
the scene of many events recorded in the sacred
annals of Scripture.

NABLOUS TO SINDGIL. 267

It was here that Dr. Loewe directed our tents
to be pitched. Shortly before sunset he proposed
making a visit to the tomb of Joseph, but a feel-
ing of oppressive fatigue soon compelled us to
return. We partook of a draught of the excel-
lent water of the well, and experienced its salu-
tary qualities, so valued by the inhabitants of
the place that it is used as a remedy against
many disorders. Several persons visited us in

the course of the evening ; and M requested

them to go home and make out lists of the
people who might stand in need of assistance.
Before the night advanced, we took several short
walks, and saw at every step something to ad-
mire, something to awaken a new train of feel-
ings and elevated reflections. On our return a
young man came into the encampment, bearing
an instrument somewhat similar to a violin, but
made of copper instead of wood. He remained
playing and singing till the close of the evening.

Wednesday, June 5. Nablous (the ancient
Sichem) to Sindgil. — At an early hour repaired
to the tomb of Joseph, the walls of which form
a square, with a small entrance. There is no
roof, and the natives affirm that they have never
succeeded in building a cupola to this tomb, it
having always fallen in. Towards the right of
the entrance stands the sarcophagus, and on either
side are two short pillars, surrounded by a large

268 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

basin for the use of oil, which is lighted up on
solemn occasions : opposite the tomb, to the left
of the entrance, is a beautiful vine, interwoven
with another luxuriant plant, in allusion to the
passage, " Joseph will be an evergreen, young in
branch." Opposite the entrance is a Hebrew
inscription, containing the name of the person
who built the walls around it, and the date. We
there said our prayers, accompanied by the chiefs
of the congregation of Nablous, who remained
outside, fearful of contagion. After having
gathered a few of the vine-leaves as a sacred
memento, we took leave of the worthy Israelites
who brought the lists, and proceeded on our way
towards Awarta, the luggage having preceded us
to Khawarta. We had now an additional guide,
the same who last year had accompanied Dr.
Loewe. To our left we passed the village Rougib,
and for an hour and a half, Mount Gerizim to the
right appeared in view, and on its summit the
tomb of Khamor. We then proceeded towards
the left, and ascended to the village Awarta,
where the first place we visited was the tomb of
Phinehas. It is beautifully kept up. A fine
white wall forms the square, and in the centre of
the tomb, of unusually large dimensions, there is
to be seen, in one of the corners of the square,
near the lamp, a tablet of white alabaster, bearing
a long Samaritan inscription, which Dr. Loewe

NABLOUS TO SINDGIL. 269

translated to us, and which he communicated to
some of the learned societies. From thence we
ascended to the tomb of Khamor. The Mussul-
mans have built in its vicinity a mosque,
according to their usual custom on the discovery
of any sacred spot. The tomb is of the same
character as the above, bearing a long Samaritan
inscription, which was also translated by Dr.
Loewe, who then read prayers to us, and wrote
in Samaritan, that he had visited that spot a
year ago. On entering we found a man standing
at the gate, who did not seem willing to make
way for us to pass : the rules of quarantine
obliged us to call forth the authority of Hhasan,
who by the menace of his cane, made him
quickly retire. We then entered the tomb of the
Seventy Elders, lying to the right of the tomb
of Phinehas. Two small mosques are placed
over them ; the first we entered by a small aper-
ture, over which is a Cufic inscription, consisting
of the Fathhah, or introductory chapter of the
Koran. An immense number of Hebrew inscrip-
tions and oil lamps manifested the veneration
entertained for the place. The whole mountain
is undermined, containing the tombs of men whose
memories are cherished with profound veneration.
Lastly, we went to the tomb of Eleazer, the son of
Aaron the high-priest. The road leading to this
.spot is very far from the best, and inflicts a toil on

270 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

the pilgrim only to be compensated by the deep
interest attached to the vicinity. The tomb is
situated on the top of a mountain, surrounded by
pines of immense size and ancient growth, and
rises from the centre of the square. There is also
a small cave, where people resort for the purpose
of prayer. At the left of the entrance, in the
corner, are two tablets, covered with Samaritan
inscriptions, descriptive of the sacredness of the
spot. Three or four other inscriptions of a similar
kind were observed, and afforded additional proof
of the extreme and reverential care with which
the Samaritans have preserved these memorials of
the honoured dead, and of the little reason which
Ibrahim Pacha had to speak of them, which
according to report he once did, as having no
religion.

We passed some fine tamarind-trees and
juniper bushes, and at a quarter to twelve rejoined
our attendants, and found a tent pitched for our
accommodation, and lunch ready, at Laban's Well.
A delightful journey brought us, at a little past
six, to the village of Sindgil.

Thursday, June 6. From Sindgil to Jeru-
salem.— We ascended Djebbel Selouat, and pass-
ing the village of Yabroud, arrived at Vady Tin,
an immense valley, bounded on either side by
rocks of every fantastic shape, and cultivated
terraces, rising one above another, covered with

SINDGIL TO JERUSALEM. 271

vines and fig-trees, and displaying the resources of
both art and industry. Our breakfast was pre-
pared at Mafahrek, but there was no shelter from
the sun's scorching rays, and M feeling him-
self but little refreshed, when so exposed, we soon
resumed our journey, and on the way passed
through Touran, Bet Hanin, Eyn Abroud and
Shabia. Half an hour before arriving at the last-
named place, Dr. Loewe dismounted, and com-
menced repeating all the Psalms which contain
any allusion to Jerusalem or the Holy Land,
connecting with them the prayers that are
generally offered up at midnight.

What the feelings of a traveller are when
among the mountains on which the awful power
of the Almighty once visibly rested, and when
approaching the city where he placed his name ;
whence his law was to go forth to all the world ;
where the beauty of holiness shone in its morn-
ing splendour ; and to which, even in its sorrow
and captivity, even in its desolation, the very
Gentiles, the people of all nations of the earth
as well as its own children, look with profound
awe and admiration. — Oh ! what the feelings oi
the traveller are on such a spot, and when listen-
ing to the enraptured tones of Israel's own in-
spired king, none can imagine but those who
have had the privilege and the felicity to experi-
ence them !

272 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

As we drew nearer to Jerusalem the aspect of
the surrounding country became more and more
sterile and gloomy. The land was covered with
thorns and briers, and sadly did the words of the
Psalmist rise to the thoughts : " He turneth
rivers into a wilderness, and the water-springs
into dry ground : a fruitful land into barrenness,
for the wickedness of them that dwell therein ! "
— Ps. cvii. 33.

But solemn as were the feelings excited by the
melancholy desolateness of the rocky hills and
valleys through which we were passing, they
were suddenly lost in a sense of rapture and in-
describable joy, for now the Holy City itself rose
full into view, with all its cupolas and minarets
reflecting the splendour of the heavens. Dis-
mounting from our horses, we sat down and
poured forth the sentiments which so strongly
animated our hearts, in devout praises to Him
whose mercy and providence alone had thus
brought us a second time, in health and safety,
to the city of our fathers.

Pursuing our path, we soon passed the tomb
of Nabbi Shemuel, (the prophet Samuel,) and at
about five o'clock reached the gates of the Holy
City. Hhasan having dismounted, his mule
instantly ran off, and notwithstanding the efforts
of his master, of Ibrahim, Armstrong, and
Bekhor, kept them in chase till he stopped on

JERUSALEM. 273

the Mount of Olives. There Dr. Loewe proposed

we should encamp, but M , being greatly

fatigued, considered that it would be better to
select a less elevated situation. We accordingly
proceeded to the valley fixed on by the muk-
karies ; but soon discovered that we had com-
mitted a serious error, in choosing a spot whence
the air was excluded, and which the contagious
atmosphere of the town was so much more likely
to infect : we, therefore, ascended a steep path,
cut out of the mountain, almost like a flight of
stairs, but which our horses scaled with their
customary ease and safety. The pure air of the
Mount of Olives breathed around us with the
most refreshing fragrance ; and as we directed
our attention to the surrounding view, Jeru-
salem was seen in its entire extent at our feet,
the Valley of Jehoshaphat to our left, and in the
distance, the dark, misty waves of the Dead Sea,

In the course of our journey we passed a num-
ber of Arab women, who endeavoured to create
some disturbance, but were speedily silenced by
Hhasan and Saad-Eddin. Some other women
were seated in groups round new-made graves, in
the valley, and which, with affectionate care, they
were decorating with fresh flowers.

Friday, June 7. Jerusalem: the Mount of
Olives. — Thanks to Almighty God, we rested in

T

274 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

peace and comfort beneath our tents ! At an
early hour in the morning the governor, attended
by his suite, and several of our brethren, came to
visit us ; but the fatigues of the journey and heat
of the weather rendering it necessary that we
should indulge till a somewhat later hour, they
went away, and returned at about nine o'clock.

The governor, Mohhammad Djizdar, a good-
tempered man, after sitting some time talking

with M , Dr. Loewe acting as interpreter,

asked to be introduced to me. I therefore came
out of my tent, and was received with great
politeness by his excellency and suite, the former,
according to custom, placing his hand on his

heart and forehead. Mr. A was delighted to

see us, and stated that he had prepared his house
for our reception, having long expected our
arrival. The Hhakhamim of the Portuguese and
German synagogues, and the principal members
of the congregation, also came out to us, and
many of them sent us presents of cake and wine.
The governor presented us with five sheep, and
offered to accompany us to Hebron and the Dead
Sea. The fattest of the sheep was killed, and
part given to the priest, a quarter to some poor
families of our nation, and half to the mukkaries,
to be dressed with rice for their supper.

We breakfasted under an olive-tree, whose
branches spread sufficiently wide to shelter us

JERUSALEM. 275

from the scorching rays of the sun. Mr. A

had provided us with luxuries for the repast,
which, through his kindness, consisted of apricots,
oranges, cakes, fresh butter and cheese, tea and
coffee. The romantic situation in which we par-
took of this breakfast, added in no slight degree
to its relish ; and our eyes felt that they could
never grow weary of contemplating the Holy
City, the valley, and other objects, among which
was the tomb said to be of the prophetess
Khouldah, enriching the sublime landscape
spread before us.

The governor proposed that we should enter the
city in a day or two, when he would come officially
to meet us, and proclaim a holiday. We are,
however, strongly persuaded not to enter, cases of
plague having occurred within the last few days.
It is, therefore, our determination to remain in our
present position on this beautiful mount, where
the finest air, the most sublime views, and asso-
ciations of the noblest kind unite to comfort us
and elevate our thoughts.

A few years back we could not have remained
all night in this spot without the protection of
two or three hundred men ; now two extra
soldiers from the Moussellim suffice to complete
the force necessary for our protection.

Mr. Young, the British consul, and his lady,
T 2

276 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

came to see us. They are evidently very amiable
persons, and will afford, I trust, as much help
as it lies in their power to render to the afflicted

people. Mr. Y states it as his opinion, that

the chief cause of the plague is extreme poverty,

and Mrs. Y told me that she had seen people

eating the grass and weeds, from excess of hunger.
These melancholy recitals furnished fresh reasons
for every effort that could be made to bring the
land into cultivation,* and afford employment to
those who are at present without any regular
means of support.

This evening we recited our prayers on the
Mount of Olives, and as we bent our eyes upon
the site on which the temple once rose in all its
glory, a glory which, even in its latter day, the
heathen could not contemplate without awe, how
did our hearts swell with holy emotion ! how fitly
could we have adopted the language of Israel's
own minstrel, " Thou art the God of our strength.
Why dost thou cast us off ? Why go we mourn-
ing because of the oppression of the enemy ? O
send out thy light and thy truth : let them lead
me : let them bring me unto thy holy hill, and to
thy tabernacles. Then will I go unto the altar of
God : unto God, my exceeding joy. Yea, upon
the harp will I praise thee, O God, my God ! "

Saturday, June 8. Jerusalem. Mount of
* See Appendix.

JERUSALEM. 277

Olives — encamped. — We had our chairs, carpets,
and umbrellas brought towards the Valley of
Jehosaphat, opposite the site of the temple, near
the tomb of Khouldah, and affording a distant
view of the Dead Sea. The remembrance of this
Sabbath morning can never be effaced. Every
spot answers minutely to the descriptive language
of Scripture. The walls of the temple may have
yielded to the devastating arm of the conqueror ;
but Mount Zion itself standeth for ever. Nor are
there wanting objects, or circumstances, to give a
present reality and vividness to the picture of
past times, full of depth and power. The olive-
trees spread their dim grey branches, as if emble-
matical of hoar antiquity. The country is sad and
of melancholy aspect; and every now andthenrose
on the air the solemn funeral chant, the mournful
lament for broken ties of love and kindred !

We received numerous presents of cake and
wine, and, as on former occasions, they served us
well when wishing to treat the visitors who
kindly crowded to our encampment. A cord pro-
tected us from their too near approach, and every
precaution was deemed necessary, it being re-
ported that fourteen or fifteen deaths occur daily
in the city. I did not feel quite well, and towards
evening was obliged to retire to bed, but the
indisposition was attributed to my eating some
cucumber.

278 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

We received, in the course of the afternoon, a
visit from the representatives of the German con-
gregation, headed by the reader and choir, who

chanted a separate blessing for my dear M ,

myself, and Dr. Loewe. Dr. Loewe read and
translated some descriptions of the Holy City,

from an Ancient Hebrew work, and M read

the book of Zechariah. Oh, might we not
have exclaimed, When will the words of that
prophet be fulfilled, " I will strengthen the house
of Judah, and I will save the house of Joseph,
and I will bring them again to place them : for I
have mercy upon them : and they shall be as
though I had not cast them out : for I am the
Lord their God, and will hear them ! "x. 6.

Sunday, June 9. Jerusalem. — At an early hour
visitors flocked up the Mount to our tents. We
regretted we could not admit them, but we
gave them the best welcome which the cordon
would allow us to afford. Many petitions were
preferred by poor distressed people, some request-
ing that their debts might be paid, and others
supporting the plea by a simple statement of
multiplied necessities. The ladies of the Hha-
khamim and other persons of respectability, also
came and seated themselves under the trees,
where cakes and wine were served to both rich
and poor.

Last night we were disturbed by an intruder in

JERUSALEM. 279

our tent, which was supposed to be a jackal,
animals of that species, and foxes, being common
among the mountains of this neighbourhood.
Saad-Eddin, Hhasan, and the rest were ready
with their muskets, and promised to be on the
watch during the night, but it was thought
afterwards that a dog only had caused the alarm.

Our dread of infection forbids our making any
purchases, and when a letter is brought it is
taken by the guard with a pair of pincers, and
laid on the ground, beneath some stones, which
are required to prevent the wind, which is very
high, from blowing it away.

The Moussellim has paid another visit to M

to-day, and the substance of their conversation,
as interpreted by Dr. Loewe, was as follows :

The Governor. " May your day be bright and
blessed !"

Sir M . " And yours full of blessings and

" May the Almighty prolong your
" And yours continue in happi-

" The air is delightful here."
" Most beautiful. I should think
the breezes of this mountain would convey health
and every other blessing to the Holy City."
G . " Doubtless all blessings arise from this

280 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

mountain ; particularly as you have pitched your
tent upon it."

Sir M . "Blessed be he who bestows so

much honour upon me by his kind and flattering
expressions !"

G . " I say what my heart feels, and that

which the whole world witnesses with me !"

" Sir M . " I wish it were in my power to

show my friendly feelings towards you, as well
as to others who think so kindly of me."

G . " I wish to impress on your mind, that

not only the Jews, but the Mussulmans, Chris-
tians, and every other class of the inhabitants
are most anxious for your entrance into the Holy
City!"

Sir M . " I am perfectly convinced of the

worthy and distinguished character of its inhabi-
tants, and that such it should be is not astonish-
ing, subjected as it is to the careful observation
of such a governor as yourself ; and had it not

been on account of Lady M , I should have

entered the town the very day of my arrival."

G . " God shall prolong your life. Only

under the watchful eye of our lord, Ibrahim
Pacha, and yourself, can happiness be increased.
At the time when our lord came to Jerusalem, I
went to meet him. He said to me, ' Achmet ! ' I
replied, ' Effendina !' ' You know the age when
it was said, This is a Christian, and that a Jew,

JERUSALEM. 281

and there is a Mussulman ! but now, Achmet,
these times are past. Never ask what he is ;
let him be of whatsoever religion he may, do
him justice, as the Lord of the world desired
of us ! "

Sir M . " These are my sentiments. Make

no distinction. Be like the sun which shines
over the whole world — all are blessed by its light,
all strengthened and refreshed by its warmth,
whether they be Jews, Christians, or Mussul-
mans."

G . " Long live Effendina ! His sword is

very long ! Look at the spot on which your
tents are pitched. Ten years ago five hundred
men would have been needed to make your
abode here secure. At present you may walk
with a bag of gold in your hand. Not a soul
would molest you."

Sir M . " You are perfectly right. I can

myself bear witness to the change that has taken
place in this country. Twelve years ago, when I
visited this town, I often heard the complaints
of travellers. Even at that time I personally
experienced no inconvenience. But now that
Mehemet Ali governs, we not only travel in
security, but are furnished by his highness with
letters of introduction to the various authorities
of the country."

G . " Mehemet Ali knows how to appre-

282 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

ciate distinguished persons like yourself ; and I
assure you I am longing to show you every proof
of my respect. But while you are sitting here
in quarantine our means are limited, and it is
impossible for us to manifest the delight which
would otherwise be evidenced. Follow my advice.
Enter the city, and I will come and accompany
you with the whole of my suite. The day of
your appearing among us shall be a festival to
all the people. I will send you a beautiful
Arabian horse ; in short, whatever you like,
whether soldiers, horses, or servants. Depend
upon it, by my head, by my eyes, by my beard,
all shall be ready in a moment !"

Sir M . " I feel highly obliged to you, and

am fully assured of your good will. I promise
you that I will enter, be it the will of God, on
Wednesday morning, when I shall be happy to
avail myself of the kind offer of your company.

G . You have poured torrents of blessings

on my head ; and I shall not fail to be here, at
whatever hour you desire, with the Khakham
Morenu, whether before or after sunrise. We
are all your servants/'

Sir M . " The Almighty bless your days.

I shall ever remember your name, and say, how
happy are the people under your protection !"

G . " Bright may be your life ! May you

enjoy your stay in the Holy City, and return to

JERUSALEM. 283

your blessed country in happiness. Shall I not
have the great honour of seeing your most
worthy lady?"

Sir M . " I exceedingly regret her ladyship

did not enjoy a good night's rest, and is obliged
to remain a few hours in her tent ; but I shall
have the pleasure of informing her of your kind
enquiries."

G . " Give me now leave to go."

Sir M . " The Almighty bless you ! Go

in peace !"

G . " In peace. Sir M , God bless you."

Monday, June 10. Jerusalem. Mount of
Olives. — At four o'clock Dr. Loewe called us, and
said, that during the night the wind, in its vio-
lence, had torn off the canvas of his tent, and
furled it up like an umbrella. Having gone in
search of the guards to assist him in bringing
some stones to keep it down, he had found them
all asleep ; and the soundness of their slumbers
being increased by the effects of the last night's
treat of wine, he did not succeed in waking them,
but hid their shoes, as a punishment for their
forgetfulness of duty, having sworn, as they had
done, by their eyes and heads, to be watchful
guardians during the night. It was, however,
a little excusable ; perhaps, the red-water, as
they call the juice of the grape, that those who
enjoy it may not seem to violate the prophet's

284 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

command, had exercised its influence on their
spirits. In the course of the evening they had
sung, while seated on the ground, under a tree,
many a wild Arab song. Nature assuredly pre-
dominated over art. There were no measured
sentences — no preparation ; but the heart seized
upon, and then gave itself up to the enjoyment
of the fleeting hour. Yet amid all this ready
susceptibility to the excitement of pleasure the
Arab never forgets his religious duties. At
sun-rise, at noon-tide, and at the close of the
day, they are ever seen devoutly bowing towards
the east ; and even while on their journey, at
these hours our attendants leave the beaten track,
and having waited for awhile reverentially to
offer up their prayers, hasten to overtake us.

Our horses were brought at five o'clock, and
we set off for the Valley of Jehoshaphat. Having
first ridden round the walls of the city, we ob-
served particularly the part built by the Saracens,
and which is composed of stone of immense
dimensions. Soldiers were being drilled. We met
many of our brethren ; and Mr. Bell, who called
on us yesterday with his companion, was sketch-
ing one of the fortresses.

As we continued our route the brook of Kidron
intersected the road, once pouring its turbid
stream of gloomy waters, fit emblem of coming
sorrows, but now a dry bed of stones. To our

JERUSALEM. 285

left lay Berekhat-David, a reservoir of water,
and soon after we came to the tomb of Zechariah.
We were struck with the exceeding beauty of
the architecture and its wonderful state of pre-
servation, after having been exposed to the suns
and storms of more than two thousand years.

Absalom's monument, and the tomb of Jehosha-
phat were equally objects of reverential admira-
tion. Numberless other tombs, with Hebrew in-
scriptions, were strewed about the valley, a region
so fitted to inspire a sweet and tender melancholy,
and where the mind seems ever disposed to enter
into converse with the spirits of the just, and to
dwell in a region of thought more pure and ele-
vated than it can reach amid scenes of a livelier
character.

The morning's ride was in all respects delight-
ful and interesting, and we returned to our en-
campment, impressed with many not unprofitable
sentiments. Breakfast was awaiting us, and we
never partook of a repast with more satisfaction.
Several parties of ladies and gentlemen visited
us during the day, and whom we treated, as
usual, with cake and wine. Among the rest
were Mrs. N— - and four gentlemen from Eng-
land ; but all were obliged to remain outside the
cordon. We took another ride in the evening,
and our Arab guards, servants, and mukkaries
are at this moment celebrating the anniversary

286 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

of our wedding with many songs and choruses, to
which they keep time with loud clapping of hands.
Tuesday, June 11. Jerusalem. — At half-past
six o'clock, accompanied by one of the Hebrew
inhabitants, we went on horseback to the city of
David. At the entrance to the inner court we
were accosted by some Turks, to whom we ex-
plained that it was our wish to see the tomb of
King David. On this one of the young men shook
his head, and insultingly replied, that we could
not see it, Ibrahim Pacha having prohibited the
Franks from entering the sacred vault, particu-
larly since a European, last year, had forced open
one of the gates. Dr. Loewe, indignant at this
reply, put up his stick in a menacing attitude,
when the others said they would call the sheikh,
who immediately made his appearance, and bow-
ing, apologized for the young man, whom he
called his son. He then led us up to an apart-
ment, where there was a kind of tomb, and which
he pointed out as marking the hallowed spot we
sought. But considering that David was not
interred in an arched building, but in a vault,
we remonstrated on the deceit attempted, and
returned to the inner court, when we wrote
a few lines in Arabic to the governor, request-
ing to be favoured, if possible, with his pre-
sence there for a few moments. In the mean
time, other persons wished to intrude them-

JERUSALEM. 287

selves, and became very importunate in their de-
sire to remain ; but we could not permit it, and
our soldiers and the janissary were obliged to
use their authority. An officer from the governor
now arrived, and said that his excellency would
soon follow. In the mean time the chiefs of the

Portuguese and Germans, Mr. N and Mr.

A— - joined us, and the sheikh then brought
out a paper, which was an order from his master
Ibrahim Pacha, forbidding him to admit Franks
to the tomb of King David. To this, however,
we did not deign to listen, assuming, after the
deceit before practised, all the importance in our
power. At length the governor made his appear-
ance, attended by his usual escort. We stated
our wishes, and with his customary pleasing and
conciliating mien, he asked to see Ibrahim's
order, which having read, he consulted with his
officers, and stated the contents of the paper.
We replied, that it might relate to the generality
of Franks, but that having, as we had, the Pacha's
soldiers for guides, and being known to, and pro-
tected by all the governors of Syria, it could not
apply to us ; still that we could not desire to act
contrary to his wishes, and would therefore sub-
mit to the order. He immediately replied, that
we should enter, and that he would have the
pleasure of accompanying us. Sherbet, cibouks,
and coffee were then served to a large circle, and

288 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

the whole party were as agreeable as if nothing
had happened, the sheikh himself not less so than
the rest, though he had narrowly escaped a severe
blow from a stone.

Some time having been passed in compli-
mentary conversation, we at length arose, the
governor leading the way, and pointing for me to
follow. About a dozen of the party accompanied
us, and having entered a spacious vaulted cham-
ber, painted in Turkish fashion, we saw at the
further end a trellised door, and being led to the
spot, we beheld through the lattice the sacred and
royal deposit of the best and noblest of kings.
Yes ! there we contemplated the resting-place of
all that was mortal of him, whom the electing
wisdom of the Almighty had placed on the throne
of a kingdom, which had, at first, but the Lord
himself for its King : of him, who, resplendent
as he was in royal dignity, was still more glorious
for those gifts of wisdom, of holiness, and
heavenly genius, in the sublime power of which
he moulded the thoughts of countless generations
to forms of celestial beauty, which still furnish
worshippers of every clime and nation, with the
purest and the noblest language of devotion. In
the records of his experience, whether tried by
affliction and humbled by the weight of conscious
sin, or filled with the gladdening feelings of hope,
the heart never fails to read revelations of its

JERUSALEM. 289

deepest secrets, to discover more of its state
and nature, and to learn better how to adore
the eternal Spirit, who spoke by the mouth of
this kingly prophet.

We read in Hebrew, and then translated in the
presence of all, a very devotional prayer. How
impossible is it to describe the feelings with which
we were impressed !

A deputation of the principal persons residing
at Hebron arrived this afternoon to offer their
congratulations. They proposed to remain all
night under a tent. This evening being the anni-
versary of the dedication of our synagogue at
Ramsgate, and also of our marriage, according to
the Hebrew date, the 30th of Sivan, the prayers
were read by the whole company in the open air.
Chairs were brought out, but many preferred sit-
ting on the ground, observing that the mountain
itself afforded a better seat than the most costly
divan, for that it was the chosen spot of the
Most High. Having gone through the several
parts of the service proper for the occasion, wine,
liqueurs, and cake were served round to the
visitors, who seemed greatly to enjoy the treat,
and expressed themselves in terms of praise to
God, and with the most ardent sentiments of
attachment towards ourselves.

The Arab soldiers and janissaries were also
u

290 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

supplied with cake and red water, having par-
taken of which they commenced singing, and
performed several of their national dances with
the naked sword. The governor sent a handsome

Arabian horse for M to ride to-morrow

through the city, and which on being tried, was
found extremely spirited.

Wednesday, June 12. Jerusalem. — At a quarter
past three we were called, in order to commence
early preparations for entering the city. The
governor arrived at six o'clock, attended by his
officers and suite. Coffee, cibouks, and a plate of
cake were served, his excellency giving a piece
of the latter to each of his suite. After some con-
versation, we rose to depart. M expressed

his wish to ride his own horse, thinking that sent
for him too spirited, but the governor replied that
two young men were appointed to walk by his
side. All the party being mounted, the governor
led the way, attended by his officers. The chief
of the cavalry arranged the order of march, and
two soldiers with long muskets were appointed
immediately to precede me. The scene produced
by this descent of the Mount of Olives, passing
as we were through the most romantic defiles,
and with long lines of Turkish soldiers, mounted
on noble Arab horses and dressed in the most
costly costume, cannot be easily described. More

JERUSALEM. 291

honour, they said, could not have been paid even
to a king.

We entered the city through the Gate of the
Tribes. The streets were narrow, and almost
filled up with loose stones, and the ruins of houses
which had fallen to decay. Our guards on each
side were busily engaged in keeping off the
people, a precaution rendered necessary to lessen
the danger of contagion. Having passed through
the bazaar, we entered the Jewish quarter of the
town, and which appeared the cleanest of any we
had traversed.

The streets, every lattice, and all the tops of
the houses were thronged with children and
veiled females. Bands of music, and choirs of
singers welcomed our arrival with melodies com-
posed for the occasion, while every now and then
the loud quick clapping of hands gave signal that
the whole vast crowd of spectators was striving
to give expression to popular delight. Having
reached the synagogue, the governor entered with

us, and then said, addressing M , he would

leave us to our devotions, and that his officers
should attend us when we pleased to return to

our encampment. M was called to the

Sepher, and offered for all our friends in England

as well as for those present. I was allowed the

honour of lighting four lamps in front of the altar,

u 2

292 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

and putting the bells on the Sepher. Blessings

were then given for M and me, and for the

party. We then went successively to three other
Portuguese, and two German synagogues, one of
which belongs to Mr. Lehren, of Amsterdam. A
new synagogue and ten houses are partly built,
but for want of funds remain unfinished. Bless-
ings at each place of devotion were offered up for
us, and no sight can I imagine more impressive or
delightful than that which was thus exhibited.

On our return the streets presented the same
thronged and festive appearance as before, and
thousands of good wishes and prayers were pre-
sented to heaven for our peace and happiness. In
our progress we called at Mr. Young's and Mr.
Amslack's and were received with great kindness,
and treated with coffee, sherbet, and cake.

While M proceeded to the governor's, I

remained at Mr. Lehren's synagogue. I was most
thankful when they returned, for though the kind
people had not ceased to show me attention, and
heap their good things before me, such was the
fatigue I had suffered that I found myself falling-
asleep at almost every sentence they uttered.

We returned by the tower of David, the valley
of Jehoshaphat, Mount Zion, and Mount Moriah.

M was as fatigued as myself, though both

full of thankful and satisfactory reflections. He

JERUSALEM. 293

sent the governor a present of a hundred dollars,
which in handsome terms he declined accepting.

Thursday, June 13. Jerusalem. Mount of Olives.
— All this day has been occupied with persons
who have come to our encampment requesting
assistance, with reading their letters, and con-
sidering the best manner of relieving their dis-
tress. The difficulty of procuring cash was most
perplexing, there being no banker here, and

neither Mr. A nor the British consul being

able to supply any. The former could merely
muster a hundred pounds, and Zafed and Tiberias
had made fearful inroads upon our supply taken
from Beyrout. At last, with what we could spare,

M resolved to give an order on Beyrout to

make up the sum he wished to give to the German
and Portuguese congregations in this city — the
prevalence of the plague preventing his distri-
buting it himself, as he did at Zafed and Tiberias.

In the course of the day the ladies of a charity
for the relief of the sick, and for the apportioning
of poor young women, called, and brought a letter,
requesting me to become patroness of the charity,
and to allow my name to be placed at the head
of the institution. I consented, and we sent them
a donation. The servants and attendants of the
governor, and the composer of a song for us were
remunerated, and the poor Mussulmans received
gifts.

294 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Intelligence was brought us that the poor man,
a good and industrious person, who killed a sheep
for us on Friday last, and who appeared to be
only about thirty years of age, and in the best
health, had died of the plague.

We have now happily settled many of our little
affairs, and all with whom we have been con-
cerned appear highly contented. The three hun-
dred and seventy-six dollars brought from Dr.
Herschell and our E-amsgate synagogue are to be

distributed to-morrow. M is now writing

a note to Dr. Keith, thanking him for the present
of his book on the " Literal Fulfilment of Pro-
phecy."

It is a lovely evening : the new moon is up,
and the heavens are full of stars, while a disposi-
tion to thought clears away the mists of time.
Fresh and sweet sounds the song of David : " The
heavens declare the glory of God, and the firma-
ment sheweth his handy- work : day unto day
uttereth speech, and night unto night sheweth
knowledge!"

Under the soft rays of this delicious and starry
evening our friends continue to assemble, and it
is their purpose to remain all night upon the spot,
that they may be ready to anticipate our depar-
ture in the morning from the mountains of Zion.
As they keep the watches through the solemn
hours of repose, may they not seem like those

JERUSALEM TO HEBRON. 295

who, in days long gone by, heard pealing from the
temple, " Behold, bless ye the Lord, all ye servants
of the Lord, which by night stand in the house
of the Lord. Lift up your hands in the sanctuary,
and bless the Lord. The Lord that made heaven
and earth, bless thee out of Zion?" Psalm cxxiv.

We yesterday went to inspect the western wall
of the temple of Solomon. How wonderful .that
it should have so long defied the ravages of time!
The huge stones seem to cling together ; to be
cemented by a power mightier than decay, that
they may be a memorial of Israel's past glory :
and oh ! may they not be regarded as a sign of
future greatness, when Israel shall be redeemed,
and the whole world shall, with one accord, sing
praises to Israel's God!

Friday, June 14. Jerusalem to Hebron. — Arose
at half-past three o'clock, it being our wish to
depart in the cool of the morning. When my

dear M 's horse was to be prepared, the saddle

could nowhere be found. At length it was sug-
gested that it must have been sent home with
the Moussellim's horse. We were accordingly
detained till it could be sent for.

Several of the persons named before had re-
mained through the night, and now proposed to
accompany us the whole way to Hebron. This
we could not allow. At six o'clock we took a

296 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

parting view of Zion, Mount Moriah, and the
numberless objects which our religion has con-
secrated as monuments of a glory, passed, indeed,
as to its visible splendour, but ever bright and
present to the hearts of the children of Israel.

Oh! who could dwell upon such scenes, and
not glow with devotion and holy love ! Who
could look upon the spots which Moses and Aaron
had in anxious prospect ; spots familiar to the
eyes of David and Solomon ; and that most sacred
of all, where our father Abraham was directed to
offer up his only son Isaac, through whom all the
families of the earth were to be blessed. Oh ! who
could look upon such scenes, and not ask, When
shall the days come when the voice of the Lord
shall be heard, saying, "Break forth into joy : sing
together, ye waste places of Jerusalem: for the
Lord hath comforted his people: he hath redeemed
Jerusalem. The Lord hath made bare his holy
arm in the eyes of all the nations : and all the
ends of the earth shall see the salvation of our
God?"— Isaiah lii. 9, 10.

Mr. A and two deputies soon joined us on

the road, with the intention, they stated, of accom-
panying us to Hebron. On reaching Rachael's
tomb, we found several of our brethren assembled
there, in expectation of our arrival. Here we
read prayers, and I inscribed my name, amid

HEBRON. 297

many thousands of others, on the sacred monu-
ment. The wall is fast crumbling into ruins,
and we directed inquiries to be made as to the
sum required for its repair.

The remainder of our road lay through a wild
and rocky district, till we reached a green and
fertile spot, where there was a large reservoir of
water, called Berekat David, and said to have
been formed in the time of that monarch ; the
water being conducted by an aqueduct to the
very courts of the temple.

Having breakfasted at this pleasant spot, we
pursued our journey, which now conducted us
through vineyards and hills covered with fig and
olive-trees. Several of the Hhakhamim came out
to meet us, and at six o'clock we encamped in a
beautiful valley, near Jacob's Well, and sur-
rounded by green and well- wooded hills.

Saturday, June 15. Hebron. Went to the
Portuguese synagogue. The streets of this town,
like most others in Syria, are narrow, and full of
stones and rubbish. Apparently the houses are
built without timber, and no paint is applied,
either for use or decoration. But the inhabitants
are accustomed to no better dwellings, and the
enthusiastic feelings inspired by the knowledge
that they are living in the land of their fathers
and of the patriarchs, supply a resolution more

298 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

than sufficient to enable them to support their
privations and trials.

The same honours as on former occasions were
paid us at synagogue, and the chiefs accompanied
us back to the encampment. Soon after the
Moussellim was announced, and he had brought
us four sheep as a present ; but as he had not come
to meet us with the same respect which had been
shown at Zaf ed and Jerusalem, we refused to ac-
cept the offering, and kept him waiting till the
conclusion of our breakfast. This show of spirit
and consequence is necessary with Mussulmans,
and we reaped the advantage of it in the present
instance, for on our going out to receive the old
gentleman we found him attended by several of
his officers and servants awaiting our appearance
outside the cordon, we being still in quarantine.
Apologies were straightway made for the seem-
ing neglect, and it was stated that Thursday had
been named as the day of our arrival, the chiefs of
the synagogue being charged with the blame at-
tending the error. Had this not been the case,
added the governor, he would have rendered us all
the honours to which we had so proper a claim.
When he had taken coffee and cake, and was
making us many offers of service, we asked if the
cave of Machpelah could be visited by Franks.
He shook his head, and said with great conse-

HEBRON. 299

quence, " Oh, no, impossible ! " There were,
however, he said, many other places of great inte-
rest to visit — the tombs of Abner, Ruth, Jesse,
the father of David, and Athniel, the Son of
Kenaz.

The country here is extremely rich in vine-
yards, and the hills are clothed with olive-trees,
pomegranates, figs, tamarinds, and apricots.
How greatly should I enjoy having a house in this
extensive plain, where our tents are now pitched,
and where I could linger as long as I chose, con-
templating the sublime mountain scenery, wan-
dering amid the monuments of the founders and
teachers of our nation ; and combining with this
higher species of enjoyment the comforts and the
usefulness of domestic life.

Almost the whole day was occupied in receiv-
ing visits. Some of the ladies are very pretty
and agreeable. They marry at fourteen or fifteen,
and many at thirty years of age are grandmothers.
The girls wore a profusion of artificial flowers on
their heads, their long tresses hanging down their
backs. We received many presents of cake and
wine.

Sunday, June 16. Hebron. — The lists of the
people were brought according to request ; but as
usual many alterations were required. While at
breakfast under an olive-tree, we heard the sound

-300 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

of the Zoomma'rah, or double-reed pipe, and sent
Saad Eddin, one of our janissaries, to purchase it.
The drum was immediately taken by Hhasan, our
black soldier from the governor of Bey rout ; and
with Amin, the janissary from Tiberias, he struck
up a concert which set the mukkarries dancing in
succession, from the black slave to the old Druse ;
each dance differing from the other, and all dis-
playing grace in attitude and figure. Saad-
Eddin, however, excelled the whole by his agility
in the sword-dance, and the skill with which he
displayed his handkerchief in various forms, as
the gift of his friend. This concluded by an
encounter with Amin, in a graceful sparring
match; Saad-Eddin conquered by striking his
sword on the top of Amin's head, on which the
latter had taken the precaution of placing his
handkerchief. The governor paid us another
visit — a great mark of respect and distinction.
He repeated his apologies for not corning to meet
us on the road, and renewed his offers of services
His tone was subdued in respect to our visiting
the holy places, for which he volunteered his
services. The sheikh who visited us yesterday
sent us a present of a large jar of fresh butter and
one of honey.

Mr. A came and breakfasted, and passed

the day with us ; he had his carpet and cushion

HEBRON. 301

with him, and remained outside the tent
on account of quarantine. He brought me a
large bottle of ottar of roses, a present from his
lady. The four sheep given us by the governor
were submitted to the knife, and the parts appro-
priated to the priests, presented to them with
the accustomed prayer, were accepted with grate-
ful thanks and blessings. The fore-quarters
were devoted to poor families, and our mukkaries
have this evening a feast with the hind-quarters.
Again we have received presents of cake, wine,
and liqueurs, and that opportunely, considering
the number of kind visitors whom we have to
entertain. To-day also there were brought us
the lists of the Jewish population, and with them
certificates of seats for our occupation in the
German and Portuguese synagogues, transferred

to both M and myself for ever. These

documents were accompanied with the most
affecting and enthusiastic expressions of regard.
We were also requested to become patrons of an
institution for the promotion of Talmud Tora,
the study of our Holy Law, to the appellation of
which they did us the honour of adding our
names ; and the distinction of patroness of their
institution for the sick and for the apportioning
of young women was conferred upon me.

Never was I more deeply impressed with devo-

302 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

tional feelings than amid the scenes which here
surround us. This is the burial place of Abraham,
Isaac, and Jacob ; of Sarah and Leah ; and the
water which we drink is drawn from the well of
Jacob. How sad it is that the terrors of a des-
potic government should throw so dark a shade
over a region and objects so noble and so sublime !

The Hhakhamim expressed great surprise that
all the four sheep proved Kasher. Ten were
killed on Friday last, and only two were fitting
for use. The circumstance was regarded as a
peculiar mark of favour. They called this Valley
of Hebron the Valley of Flowers ; and one of the
oldest of them brought me a bunch of beautiful
carnations from the gardens. The females ex-
pressed themselves delighted at our presence, and
said that, if we would stay among them, they
would every day walk with me in the neighbour-
ing vineyards and on the hills, embellished with
the loveliest shades, and sanctified by the tombs
of the great, the pious, and the learned.

We have some hopes of visiting the cave of
Machpelah to-morrow morning. The sheikh has
promised to escort us.

Monday, June 17. Hebron. — Agreeably to our
engagement with the governor and the sheikh,
they arrived a little before nine, accompanied by
their suite, the chiefs of the Portuguese and Ger-

HEBRON. 303

man synagogues. The party being assembled,
coffee, pipes, and other refreshments were served
with all due attention to Eastern etiquette, the
principal personages seating themselves cross-
legged, and the rest standing behind. But little
time was spent before all was in readiness for our
departure. We were soon mounted — Armstrong,
Ann, Ibrahim, our janissaries, and soldiers escort-
ing us, and many of our brethren following on
foot, all eager to obtain admission to a sight of the
venerated spot where repose the patriarchs Abra-
ham, Isaac, and Jacob. As we paraded through
the streets, many a proud Mussulman eyed us
with jealous scrutiny. The inhabitants of Hebron
differ from their turbaned brethren of Jerusalem
and other cities. Much of urbanity and kind-
ness are discernible in the conduct of the latter,
while the former, strutting about, or seated on
the side of the streets, seem only anxious to
show the pride, and exercise the violence, of
conquerors.

On arriving at the gate of the mosque, we
found a great crowd assembled, and consisting
chiefly of Turks, among whom was a dervish, the
sound of whose hideous cries, as he shook his
head and tossed his arms furiously about, his
whole appearance rendered doubly frightful by a
dark grizzly beard, was almost enough to terrify

304 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

a bolder heart than mine. To his hideous yells, as
we continued to approach, were added those of
the multitude, but encouraged by the governor
and cadi, who led the way, we dismounted and
gained an entrance. It was soon apparent,
however, that the authority of office exercises
little influence here. A turbulent throng of
Mussulmans was collected in the interior of the
mosque, and they were soon joined by the raving
dervish. In the meantime the noise outside con-
tinued to increase, and the Jews, who were
anxiously waiting to obtain a sight of the bury-
ing-place of their revered forefathers, experienced
the most violent insults. The Moslem, with pale
face, pointed to an iron door, saying that it was
that which led to the interior of the cave. But
the rage of the Turks, and the howling of the
dervish now became more violent than ever, and
we decided that it would be prudent to retire
without attempting a further entrance. We ac-
cordingly retreated as we had advanced; the
governor and cadi, with their officers, preceding
us. Hhasan and Saad-Eddin behaved most vali-
antly, repulsing with their silver-headed canes
those who had assailed our poor brethren, and
exultingly challenging a dozen at a time. On
leaving this scene of fanatic fury, the governor
attempted some apology for what had occurred,

HEBRON. 305

observing that it was impossible for him to
check the violence of religious enthusiasm. This
might be true, but as governor of a town he
should have known better the extent and force
of his authority, and not have allowed us to en-
counter so much confusion and alarm. We made
no reply, but rode on to our encampment, thank-
ful and happy that we had escaped without in-
jury. The contrast between the scene which we
had just witnessed, and the calm beauty of the
Vale of Flowers, with the grandeur and tran-
quility of the surrounding country, could not but
excite in our minds some sad reflections on the
fearful opposition which the passions of mankind
are ever making to the wisdom and benevolence
of the Deity.

But impressed as we were with these feelings,
it was not to be forgotten that even in this land
of oppression improvement has taken place. A
year or two back, had any of our brethren ven-
tured to walk where now our tents are pitched,
they would have been in danger of being stoned
by the Arabs. Our position is not without its
perils, but these are occasioned by the marauders
of the desert, not far from which we are en-
camped, and the governor has granted us an
extra nightly guard. The only curiosity which
attracted our notice in our way to the cave
x

306 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

were two immense stones, nine yards and a half
long by one yard broad.

Two of the Pakidim came to inform us that
the congregation was in great uneasiness ; that
the Mussulmans had collected in considerable
numbers, and were beating the Israelites with
sticks, and otherwise ill-using them; that many
of the sufferers were obliged to seek their beds,
while others were trembling at the possibility of
receiving yet greater injuries. In great dismay
we consulted what was to be done, when it was
determined that a messenger should be sent to
the governor of Jerusalem, who on our quitting
that city had recommended an additional escort.
Dr. Loewe wrote an Arabic letter to his excel-
lency, describing the occurrence of the forenoon,
and asking protection. Our fears continued, but
nothing further happened to increase the appre-
hension of danger. In the course of the after-
noon we went to the synagogue, when rny dear
M— — distributed the money destined for the
poor in the same manner as at Zafed and Tiberias.
We found that the reports respecting the injuries
that had been received were somewhat exagge-
rated. At half-past six we returned to our tents.
Many persons visited us during the evening,
which did not pass without some feeling of alarm-
occasionally intruding itself. The fire-arms were

HEBRON. 307

carefully examined before we retired to rest, but
happily nothing took place to disturb the repose
in which we forgot the turmoils of the past day.

Tuesday, June 18. Olive-ground in the Valley
of Flowers. — The night passed peaceably. We,
therefore, with the blessing of Providence, pur-
pose setting off this afternoon. At nine o'clock

we rode to the German synagogue, where M

officiated as godfather, and I as godmother, to

the child of M. S. S , who is at present in

Europe, whither he has been sent by his congre-
gation to collect contributions for their support.
This is the third honour of the kind which we
have received during our sojourn in the Holy
Land.

At half -past three, all being in readiness, we
took our departure from the olive ground ac-
companied by vast numbers of Hhakhamim, and
members of the congregations. In a few minutes
the governor and sheikh, with their attendants,
rode up to us, and continued to accompany us
about half an hour. They repeated their
apologies for the disagreeable result of yester-
day's excursion to the shrine of Abraham ; but
we assured them that as the danger had passed,
so had vanished our uncomfortable feelings. Our
recollection we added, was now wholly occupied
with the kindness and honours which we had
x 2

308 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

experienced from all classes during our stay in
their ancient and venerated city.

After a most cordial farewell, we pursued our
route, chanting the Psalms of David in chorus
with many of our brethren, who, notwithstand-
ing our entreaties that they would not continue
such a journey on foot, still proceeded, pouring
out prayers for our welfare and felicity, and other
expressions of gratitude and regard. A horseman
was now seen approaching us at full speed. It
was Amin, our faithful messenger, on his return.
Then were espied numbers of soldiers galloping
over the hills, their swords and spears glittering
in the sun. It was a troop of horse, consisting
of twenty- one picked men, sent by our excellent
friend the governor of Jerusalem. His aga
approached at full speed, attended by his chief
officer, who having descended from their fine
Arabian chargers, presented a letter from their
master, holding another to the governor of
Hebron. The one to us was as friendly and
affectionate as though he had been a brother,
saying, that if his advice had been followed, all
the unpleasant occurrences of yesterday would
have been spared us, and that immediately on
receiving our letter he had despatched twenty-
one of his best soldiers for our protection. Who
could describe the fulness of our hearts as we

HEBRON. 309

turned our horses' heads again towards Hebron,
escorted by so numerous a troop, presenting the
most martial appearance, as well as by seventeen
of our own attendants. With this formidable
company we again took possession of the olive-
ground, resolving to encamp there for the night,
and to manifest by every means in our power the
joy we felt at the proof here given, that difference
of religion does not always preclude amity, or
render impossible a reciprocity of kindness. The

aga, addressing himself to my dear M , on

delivering the letter, said that he and his men
were sent to protect us, and that they were ready
to shed their blood in that duty. Our return to
Hebron was not caused \>y a feeling of bravado,
but that we might refresh the men after a
fatiguing ride, though certainly not without the
desire of shaming our rude assailants by ex-
hibiting the conduct of others in contrast with
their own. We could now with safety have
visited the cave, which we venerate equally with
themselves, but what we did not obtain with
complacency, we would not by obtrusion. The
soldiers asked permission to fire their pistols as
they entered the field. It was certainly an
animating occurrence, and one never to be erased
from our memory, that the Almighty should
permit the children of Israel to be protected by

310 NOTES FHOM A JOURNAL.

an armed force of Mussulmans in the land of their
ancestors. Soon were we again surrounded by
numbers of our brethren, their wives and children.
Nine sheep were ordered to be killed immediately,
and bonfires to be made round the field. Some
of the sheep were roasted whole. It was a joyful
sight ! Abundance of wine, bread, fruit, vege-
tables, and rice were added to the feast, of which
all partook, without distinction of religion.

The hilarity continued to a late hour, and the
firing throughout the night, only perhaps to the
annoyance of those who merited it. Tobacco
was not forgotten among the luxuries, nor a
supply of gunpowder for the amusement of
the Turks. While the fete was being prepared,
we rode up the hill to visit some ancient tombs,
one of which was that of Jesse, the father of
David, and at which we said our evening prayers,
joined by eight Israelites who had accompanied
us. Returning down the hill, the sight that
presented itself to us might well have employed
a painter's skill. The blazing fires, — the whole
sheep roasting, — groups of Arabs seated in circles,
some smoking, others singing, dancing, cooking,
or firing their pistols, formed a scene as striking
as it was novel. Mirth and content were
diffused round an immense circle. Thanks to
the Giver of all !

HEBRON. 311

Wednesday r, June 19. — The firing disturbed us
throughout the night, but our satisfaction pre-
cluded the idea of fatigue. At half-past seven
we were all mounted, our valiant troop pro-
ceeding en avant, the splendour of the Turkish
uniform, and the beauty of the horses striking us
with admiration. During the day's journey they
amused us with sham fights, throwing the djerid,
firing of pistols, rnuskets, and feats of the broad-
sword. It was a most pleasing and entertaining
morning; they were admirable horsemen, and
threw the lance (while in full gallop) most grace-
fully, attacking each other riding to and fro in
circles up and down the hills. At half -past nine
we stopped at the tomb of Nathan the prophet,
and Gad the Seer, near the village of Halhool,
where we read prayers, and partook of refresh-
ment. We remained till twelve, when our good

old friend Mr. A , who had accompanied us

thus far, took his leave, intending to return to
Jerusalem by the direct road. We have ex-
perienced every kind attention from this gentle-
man. Our route now continued along a descent
between mountains till past two o'clock, when
entering on a plain, we dismounted, and seated
ourselves on the grass, our extra guard forming

a circle around. My dear M , on discharging

them, presented fifty dollars to the aga, and two

312 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

to each of 'the men, with a promise of a supply
of English gunpowder to each on our return.

The name of every man was then inquired and

written down. M returned a letter of thanks

to the governor, with a present of a valuable
telescope. Our road has been to-day free from
precipices, and pretty easy, the mountains richly
covered with ash, the plains well cultivated with
corn and olive trees. We encamped in a planta-
tion of olives, near the village of Zaccaria, a
quarter before eight in the evening. My dear

M was greatly fatigued, and he retired as

soon as his bed was prepared. On carving some
poultry we had brought with us, ready roasted,
we were obliged to send it immediately from
the table.

Thursday, June 20. — My dear M feels so

indisposed this morning, that he entertains the
idea of proceeding by water from Jaffa, should he
there meet an Austrian steam-boat. But I trust
in the Almighty that on arriving at that port,
his strength will be sufficiently renovated to con-
tinue our equestrian tour. We were en route this
morning before six, and passed through fertile
plains, enlivened by herds of cattle and camels
laden with corn. At half-past ten we reposed at
Nayani, under the shade of a large tamarind-tree,
but which, though extremely agreeable, is not

BET DiGON. 313

equal to the shady fig-tree, whose 'spreading
branches defy the scorching sun. Here we re-
mained from half-past ten to eight, and then
continued our journey to Bet Dagon, where for-
merly stood the temple of Dagon. See 1 Samuel,
v. 2, &c. It was twelve before we arrived, but
it was a delightful moonlight evening, and the
well- wooded country through which we passed
resembled some of the noblemen's parks in Eng-
land, with this difference, that instead of oak
there were stately olive-trees, which seemed to vie
with the noblest of the former in size as well as
age. The country in the vicinity of Ramlah
was equally beautiful, and compensated us for a
little fatigue.

Friday, June 21. Bet Ddgon, near Ashdod,
on the sands, close to the sea, near Jaffa. — Set

off at half-past seven, my dear M weak

and poorly. About half way to Jaffa, Amin
rejoined us, with the janissary of the British
consul, who would have come himself, but that
the plague is in the city. We rode to the
sands, close to the sea, and pitched our tents.
Here we were soon visited by the English and
Russian consuls, with their guardiani, we, as
before, making a lazaretto of our tents. Their
information respecting the state of the country
was not the most encouraging. They represented

314 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

it as verjr disturbed, and added that the roads
hence to Beyrout were extremely insecure. What
was to be done ? we could not remain stationary
where we then were. Presents of various kinds,
as usual, flocked in from the governor, the cadi,
and consuls, and we had a quantity of fine water-
melons, and different sorts of fruit, butter, fish,
&c., but we could obtain neither meat nor
poultry, as the Shohe't had quitted on account
of the plague. A good supply of excellent fish

sufficed in their stead. M rested during the

day, but arose and dressed for sabbath.

Saturday, June 22. Jaffa. — On a sandy shore
near the sea, seated in Dr. Loewe's tent, we read
our sabbath prayers. The weather is fine, but
warm, according with the climate. We had made
rather too free an inroad into the plentiful supply
of apricots and water-melons sent us yesterday,
but having nothing to interrupt the day's tran-
quillity, rest restored us. The British, Russian,
and Prussian consuls visited us, and remained
some time supporting a very agreeable conversa-
tion. The Russian gentleman urged my accept-
ance of a curious ancient silver ring, and two
antique coins, which, with M 's appro-
bation, I did not refuse. The ring resembles a
large medal, and bears an Arabic inscription.
The superintendent of the quarantine also came

FROM JAFFA TO EL KHADAR. 315

to our tents to offer his services. M— —requested
him to give us a certificate of health, and also of
our having avoided entering the city, for which
he requested his acceptance of twenty Spanish
dollars. We hope that this document will enable
us to pass to Beyrout free of quarantine. In the
evening the cadi paid us a visit ; he is brother
to our friend the governor of Jerusalem, from
whom he had received a letter apprising him
of our intended visit to Jaffa, and requesting
that every possible attention might be shown
us. This request certainly has been fulfilled
both by the governor and the cadi to the utmost
of our wishes.

Sunday, June 23. — Started at ten minutes

before six o'clock. My dear M finds himself

better this morning, and enjoys the ride. In the
course of an hour we arrived at an old stone
bridge, fast mouldering to decay; and having
crossed the river Petras, reached, by nine o'clock,
the tomb of the sheikh Ali ibn Alim, situated on
an eminence towards the sea. The district which
we were now traversing was a sandy, arid waste,
and the only shelter to be found was that of a
mosque, in which, infested though it was with
fieas, we were glad to rest for awhile, and partake
of breakfast, the chief luxury of which was
water-melons. It was half -past two before we

316 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

started again. The heat now became almost in-
tolerable. About four o'clock we crossed the
river Nahr el Felek, the bed of which was almost
dry, while the country around still presented the
same wild and dreary aspect, except as it was oc-
casionally relieved by the appearance of tobacco-
plantations in full blossom. By six o'clock we
reached a wide and fertile plain, at the extremity
of which appeared the mountains of Carmel, the
intervening lands, with the village of Emkhalet,
its flocks and herds, and wells of sweet water,
offering to our sight, as the moon rose and shed
its soft lustre around us, as lovely a pastoral scene
as poet or painter could well imagine. And here
it was that we formed our encampment for the
night.

Monday, June 24. — We had the courage to
rise at midnight, in order to escape the heat.
Two hours were occupied in loading the mules,
and in other preparations for starting, among
which must be mentioned the little repast, con-
sisting of a nice cup of coffee and some biscuits.

How balmy and tranquil was the air at this
hour I The whole world seemed to have sunk
into repose, while the moon and stars, which had
lost none of their brilliancy, shed their delightful
radiance on our solitary path. At about four
o'clock their lustre yielded to the more powerful

FROM JAFFA TO EL KHADAR. 317

splendours of the sun, which suddenly shot above
the horizon, and majestically cast aside his noc-
turnal mantle.

We now crossed the river Kedra, and arrived
at Minet el Batikh, or market of water-melons,
and also called Abu Zabara. At a quarter-past-
seven we reached the ancient town of Csesarea,
the splendid ruins of which, with its magnificent
marble and granite columns, still testify the riches
of Herod's proud and favourite city. But it is
now nearly covered by the sea, and the beholder,
as he contemplates its once noble harbour, may
well exclaim, " How are thy cities fallen ! "

On leaving Emkhalet this morning, it required
all the sagacity of our horses to preserve us from
accidents, as we passed the many cavities in the
road near the village, and which owe their origin
to the existence of numerous subterranean
magazines for corn. When these dangers were
escaped, the ride along the sands, till we reached
Csesarea, was truly delightful. Having break-
fasted, and reposed till a quarter-past twelve, I
employed myself, while preparations were being
made for resuming our journey, in collecting some
of the beautiful wild flowers which grew in pro-
fusion around. I fear, however, that my botanical
treasure will meet with the same fate as many of
its predecessors, and other rarities. When the

318 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

mules took a fancy to roll themselves in the sand,
baggage and all, there was little chance for our
curiosities, and in regard to flowers, as I had but
a loose book in which to place them, a gust of
wind, or a precipitous pass, was usually sufficient
to destroy the fruits of my diligence.

At half-past one we were again on our way,
and in the course of two hours crossed the river
Zarka, where we observed the ruins of an ancient
bridge. We again crossed the Zarka before
arriving at the village Tantura, and after a very
interesting journey, encamped at five minutes
past three close to the sea, the light breezes from
which, though refreshing, were scarcely sufficient
to dissipate the sultry heat of the atmosphere.
To our right, on a hill, we observed the ruins of
an ancient castle, which added in no slight degree
to the interest of a scene in itself, with a lovely
evening to aid it, full of sweetness and beauty.

Tuesday, June 25. El Khddar,foot of Mount
Carmel. — In order to reach Acre, and avoid the
scorching heat of the sun, we were called at
midnight, and very soon after all hands were em-
ployed in taking down the tents, and in reloading
the mules and donkeys, Ibrahim not neglecting to
prepare the coffee as usual. By two o'clock we
were mounted, and after passing a short tract of
rocky and sandy ground, reached a fine open plain,

EL KHADAR. 319

partly cultivated with barley and tobacco, and
presenting in other places a rich variety of wild
shrubs, which formed a gay mantle for the huge
fragments of rock that were strewed around.
Mount Carmel bounded the distant view on the
right, and to the left, through the opening hills, we
caught frequent glimpses of the Mediterranean.

At about half-past three the clouds of night
began to disappear, and the stars gradually waned
before the rising dawn, which now shed its lustre
over the surrounding scenes. Within about two
hours of this place, one of the janissaries informed
Dr. Loewe that some curious remains were to be
seen towards our left. This information induced
us to seek the spot, and traversing the plain for
about a quarter of a mile, we came to some
remains of an ancient fortress, called by the
natives Atlik, and situated close to the sea. A
gate, magnificent even in its ruins, then presented
itself. Its sculpture and architecture resembled
those of the most ancient times, except the form
of the entrance, which was arched, and therefore
belonged to a later period. A few steps further,
towards the entrance, we perceived a square aper-
ture in the roof of the building, and which for-
merly served to let down an immense monolith,
to bar the entrance in case of attack, being simi-
lar to those gates seen even at the present day
in the pyramid of Geezah.

320 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Proceeding towards the northern part of the
village, opposite to the gate, we came to an im-
mensely strong wall, facing the east, and the
architecture of which was similar to that of the
western wall of the temple at Jerusalem, and
other Jewish buildings. It was exceedingly well
preserved, and may last another thousand years.
Continuing our investigations, we proceeded a
little higher up towards the west, when another
wall of the same character appeared facing the
east, and constructed of the stone furnished by
the adjacent rocks. On entering the village, a
beautiful cylindrical edifice, with five symmetrical
ornaments struck our view. The figures repre-
senting human faces, above the windows and en-
trances, show that the Romans, at some period or
the other, made additions to the original building,
which, no doubt, owed its foundation to the
Israelites. The edifice has long furnished a
shelter to the cattle and the poorer inhabitants of
the village, who have greatly aided to destroy its
beauty by plastering the walls with mud.

We rejoined our party by a path cut out of the
solid rock, leading to the plain, and pursuing our
journey, soon reached a rivulet, the banks of
which were ornamented by the most beautiful
oleanders. Approaching Kaif a, and passing Mount
Carmel, we proposed breakfasting, and remaining

EL KHADAR. 321

encamped during the heat of the day, when we
perceived a number of horses grazing, and im-
mediately afterwards, a large encampment. At
first we supposed that they belonged to Ibrahim
Pacha, but soon discovered that they were those
of some English gentlemen whom we had met at
Jerusalem. The party was, in fact, guarded by a
strong cordon, and our progress was stopped by
officers of quarantine. We presented the certi-
ficate from Jaffa, but what was our disappoint-
ment and vexation, when we found that neither
the document nor our explanations, that we had
avoided every town and village, and encamped
with all our people outside the walls, could pro-
cure us the liberty of proceeding. A letter was
sent to the officer, with an offer of one hun-
dred colonadis, but it did not succeed ; his orders
were peremptory, and we were accordingly
obliged to pitch our tents on the sea-shore in quar-
antine. The governor of Beyrout was next
addressed in an Arabic letter, describing the
grievance to which we were subjected, and re-
questing his advice ; and another letter was sent

to Mr. K , partner in the house of K ,

H , and Co., of Beyrout. Two guardiani were

then appointed, and from them we ascertained,
that if we received permission to depart with only
seven days' quarantine instead of fourteen, what-

Y

322 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

ever we might take with us must be washed, and
that even to our tents and bedding. To prevent
delay, we would not wait till the return of the
messenger, which cannot be before Saturday
morning, but immediately commenced making an
assortment for the journey to Beyrout, and having
them well dipped in the sea. Our tents were
exposed to the same ablutions, with the excep-
tion of that required for the night.

We have just been informed that a messenger
named Rabbi David Loeb, to whom we spoke
at Kasmia, and who was sent from Zafed by
Rabbi Abraham Dob to Beyrout, for the money
forwarded from Amsterdam for the congregation,
has been wounded and robbed. While resisting
the Arab who tore from him the bag of money in-
trusted to his care for the poor, the barbarian took
his sword, cut off the fingers which held the trea-
sure, and immediately made off. But by the
justice of Providence he has been captured, de-
prived of his spoil, and suffered the retaliated
pain which he inflicted on his unfortunate victim.

Kasmia is the place which, providentially, we
could not reach on the night when we slept in
the open air. It is considered a very dangerous
part of the country. In how many instances, O
Lord, have, we remarked thy peculiar mercy and
protecting aid !

EL KHADAR. 323

Wednesday, June 26. El Khddar, foot of
Mount Carm 1. — We were highly amused this
morning at seeing all the mookkaries entering the
water, with even their turbans and under caps.
Dr. Keith and his friend are performing quaran-
tine on the shore. We spared him one of the two
water-melons, which alone remained of the pre-
sent made us by the cadi of Jaffa. Two baskets
of fruit have been sent us by the consul of Acre.
The figs are the first we have tasted this year, and
with the apricots, apples, and citrons, are very
acceptable. Our situation here perpetually re-
minds us of one of the most remarkable events
recorded in Scripture. 1 Kings, xviii. Mr.
Finzi, the British agent at Acre, has just been
here. He is a most intelligent and hospitable
person. Having heard of our visit to the several

cities in Palestine, and of M 's wish to render

a permanent benefit to the inhabitants by the in-
troduction of agriculture, he has prepared de-
scriptions of the various villages in his vicinity,
of the lands, and their quality and productions.
He last year supported forty of the inhabitants
at his table, after the attack of the Druses, and
supplied them with clothing. In the hope of
seeing us, he made a journey to Jerusalem, from
which city he is just returned. Thus our deten-
tion here has not been without its use.
Y 2

324 NOTES FKOM A JOURNAL.

Thursday, June 27. El Khddar, foot of Mount
Carmel. — Yesterday we parted with Amin, our
Tiberian janissary. Being near home, he was
anxious to return, nor was his anxiety lessened
by the prospect which he had of being dipped,
with all his possessions, in the sea, if he conti-
nued to attend us on our journey. He had proved
himself very faithful and attentive, and we were
all fully satisfied with his conduct. After receiv-
ing a handsome bakshish, he came into my tent,
and taking my .hand, which he kissed, placed it
on his forehead. We are supplied with good
poultry, bread, and milk, &c., from Kaifa, and
well prepared by the people of our nation. A
present of four dressed fowls was yesterday sent
us by the Portuguese, and they furnished this
morning's breakfast.

We learn that the governor of Acre has sent his
forty-five wives to the convent of the Carmelites,
on the top of Mount Carmel ; a somewhat suspi-
cious circumstance when war is so much spoken
of. The fragrance of the flowers which crown
the summit of the mount, is spoken of as exqui-
sitely sweet. A road is being constructed, ex-
te.nding to the valley. Some of the English tra-
vellers took pratique this morning, and are gone
on board a felucca now lying in the bay. Re-
joiced they must be, for the heat is only just sup-

EL KHADAR. 325

portable as moderated by the breezes from the
sea.

Information has been brought us that many of
the inhabitants of Zafed have fled hither in
dread of another attack from the Druses. The
sufferings which they endured last year have
tilled them with terror at the very mention of the
name of the marauders. Awful indeed is the
state of the country. Laws, human and divine,
are alike despised, and the land which might have
flowed with milk and honey, lies forlorn and
desolate.

Friday, June 28. El Khddar, foot of Mount
Carmel — Arose at four to prepare for a ride up
Mount Carmel. The horses being ready, we
mounted, and proceeded to the cordon. To our
request that we might pass through, in order to
visit the cave of Elijah, the guard answered that
it was filled with cattle, which had been placed
there for protection against the heat and the
plague. Thus disappointed, we turned our horses'
heads, and ascended to the summit of the mount,
over the path along which the new road is being
constructed, and which is at present very preci-
pitous, and almost covered with thorns and large
stones. The convent is a handsome, spacious
building, not yet quite finished. Two of the
monks were standing at the entrance, and we

326 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

should have paid them a visit, but were prevented
by the rules of quarantine. Our sagada, there-
fore, was spread, and we seated ourselves for a few
moments to enjoy the delicious perfume of the
various wild flowers, which grew in rich luxuri-
ance around. Magnificent was the scene that
lay before us. A sloping plantation of tobacco ;
the winding path leading to the beach ; the blue
waters of the Mediterranean with the towns of
Kaifa and Acre encircling the bay, -formed the
main features of this lovely prospect, every por-
tion of which derived an unspeakable interest
from historical associations. Dr. Keith would
have breakfasted with us this morning, but the

rules of quarantine forbade it. Mr. B is

detained another week, from the mere circum-
stance of having come in contact with another

person. Lord C H , Lord R , and

Mr. L — - departed yesterday. To-day, all the
soldiers on duty here were sent off, for the pur-
pose, we suppose, of joining Ibrahim's army.
Three prisoners and a soldier, their hands
chained, and guarded by Turks on horseback,
have just passed by.

Saturday June 29. El Khddar,foot of Mount
Carmel. — While we were dressing this morning,

M asked me the hour. It was half -past

seven. Though Saturday morning, such now for

EL KHADAR. 327

some time has been our habit of early rising, that
half-past seven seemed by comparison very late.
One of the messengers sent to Beyrout returned

to-day, and brought letters from Mr. K , with

some English and Italian newspapers, whereby
we found that disturbances had taken place in
Paris, and in some of the English manufacturing
towns, and also that a temporary change had
occurred in the administration.

The Druses have made inroads into Damascus,
and pillaged many of the inhabitants. Great
fears are also entertained respecting the security
of the road between this place and Beyrout. One
of our mookkaries, who will have to return alone
if he proceed with us, asked to be dismissed,
having great apprehension of the danger of re-
tracing his steps without companions. We have

not yet granted his request. M 's horse and

two mules belong to him ; and M being so

well satisfied with the former, is unwilling to
mount another steed.

We regret to be informed of the death of Lady
Hester Stanhope, an event accelerated probably
by the chagrin she experienced at the conduct of
the government respecting her income. Those
who knew her rarely failed to speak with admira-
tion of her lofty intellect and noble feelings, which
counterbalanced, in their estimation, most of her

328 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

singularities. She was interred on the 23rd inst.
two days after she breathed her last. The

British consul and Mr. T went to Sidon to

attend her funeral.

The superior of the convent yesterday sent us
a present of six bottles of Cyprus wine, with a
very complimentary note. We had the pleasure
of sending a portion to Dr. Keith. This morning
he has sent a cheese and milk, with another letter,
expressing a hope that we shall visit his convent
before our departure, and regretting that we did
not enter on our previous excursion up the
mountain.

Sunday, June 30. El Khddar. — Another pre-
sent, consisting of liqueurs and melons, arrived
this morning from the superior of the convent.
He expresses a hope that we shall inscribe our
names among those of other distinguished persons
who have visited his convent. Our second mes-
senger is just returned with duplicates of the
letters brought yesterday from Beyrout, and the
expected letter from the governor, directing our
release from quarantine to-morrow. The English
consul, and the physician of Kaifa, have just paid
their respects, and expressed themselves satisfied
at our appearance, not deeming it necessary to
feel our pulse. We, of course, were content, and
took care not to mention that our servant Ann,

EL KHADAR. 329

was labouring under fatigue from the heat of the
weather and the journey, lest our doing so might
cause an addition of forty days to our quarantine.
The contemplation of such a result is by no
means agreeable, especially when the cannon
from the neighbouring town is resounding in
our ears. The firing is stated to be in con-
sequence of a victory gained by Ibrahim Pacha's
troops over those of the Sultan, near Aleppo. If
this be the case, the road is more secure, but
it confirms the report respecting hostilities. Dr.
Keith and his friend, Dr. Bonar, called. Their
servant has warned them of the dangerous state
of the road to Beyrout, and they accordingly in-
tend departing to-morrow by water.

Monday, July 1. El Khddar. — In consequence
of what had been stated respecting the road to
Beyrout, we engaged extra janissaries, and Signor
Finzi's cavas to attend us, that gentleman him-
self also intending to form part of our company.
We arose at four o'clock. The guardiani, and all
the persons who had sent us presents came to
take leave and to receive bakshish. There were
also the captain of the quarantine, the keeper of
the post-office, &c., &c., in fact every one who
could make any pretence to this sort of remunera-
tion. At length, having satisfied these numerous
claimants, on the seventh day of our quarantine,

830 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

we took leave of Mount Carmel. The English

consul, Paolo M , the physician, Signior

F , and the officers of the station, were at the

gate on horseback ready to accompany us to
Kaifa. On approaching the synagogue we were
met by the heads of the congregation, and escorted
to the place of worship. At the entrance we
thanked our numerous cortege, and begged they
would not wait till service was over. Having
taken leave, we proceeded i o offer up our prayers
to the Almighty, with thanksgivings for the pro-
tection he had graciously vouchsafed us. A dollar
was then distributed to each individual ; but

M could scarcely conceal his vexation at

observing the disparity of age between some of
the married people ; in one case a man of sixty
was the husband of a girl of thirteen.

On leaving the synagogue we found the
English consul still at the door with his cavas,
ready to precede us on our route. After a three
hours' ride on the sands we reached the neigh-
bourhood of Acre, having been previously met
by the chiefs of the congregation on horseback.
We did not enter the town, but seating ourselves
under some trees, partook of luncheon, and
remained till two o'clock. Our position afforded
a view of the new fortifications, and of the ruins
of those destroyed by Ibrahim Pacha, also of

ABOO ATABI TO EL GHiFAR. 331

the aqueducts which extend for two miles, to Sib,
the ancient Akzib. At length, after a journey of
nine hours and a half, we encamped for the night
at Aboo Atabi. On the road we passed two
bridges, and a Roman column, with an inscrip-
tion of Augustus Csesar, lying on the ground.

Tuesday, July 2. — We arose at midnight. As
usual it employed two hours to dress, take coffee,
and load the mules. The moon and stars shed
their light to guide us on the way, and the air
was soft and balmy. Our party now consisted of
twenty-four persons, and we deemed ourselves
sufficiently strong to boast of not dreading even a
band of the Druses ; this martial feeling being
occasionally stimulated by the firing off of our
pistols and muskets. The road was mountainous
and rocky, and my horse lost a shoe, but it still
carried me safely. I frequently regret having so
soon to part with an animal which has served me
so well. It seems to look better than at the
commencement of our journey. I am frequently
presented, by our attendants, with flowers and
other productions of the fields. My pistol-
holsters were adorned to-day with a sheaf of
Indian corn, said to contain two thousand grains ;
with a leaf of the cotton-plant, and of the linseed
given me by Mr. Finzi, and with rhododendrons
and other flowers of various hue.

332 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Arriving at a spring of water, said to possess
the quality of healing all complaints, we refreshed
ourselves and horses, and soon after stopped at a
place called El Ghafar, or the Guardians, where
we reposed, and took luncheon under some large
pine-trees, with the sea in full view. We re-
mained here about four hours, and at six o'clock
remounted our horses. The road was rocky and
precipitous, but we arrived in safety at Ras el
Ayn, where we encamped for the night.

Wednesday, July 3. — At half -past one we found
ourselves on the way to El Kantare, and a good
road enabled me to shake off the drowsiness
which occasionally oppressed me, and only finally
yielded at the dawn of day, when we commenced
our morning devotions. On passing an extensive
plain, bounded by rocks and caverns, a wolf was
seen leaping along the base of the cliff. One of
our valiant cavas instantly pointed his musket
and fired, but without effect. Four wild fawns
next presented themselves, and bounded across
the plain, near the sea-shore, mocking the eager
and sportsman-like pursuit of our companions.
El Kantare again afforded us a spot for agreeable
repose ; but the road from hence to Kasmia is
infested by robbers, and we found that the poor
fellow who had taken the money for the people
of Zafed had been plundered, and was since dead

BASS^TIN TO BEYROUT. 333

by the wounds which he received from the
robbers. We slept at Bassatin.

Thursday, July 4. — The neighing of the horses
awoke me before twelve, and when I looked
through the opening of the tent, already almost
illuminated by the first rays of the rising moon,
the scene presented by the bivouack of our suite
might easily have excited in an imaginative mind
the memory of many a strange and adventurous
legend. All for a time remained sunk in deep
repose. At length " Sookoo, Akhlasoo," and
" Tdllah" and then " Ibrahim, Ibrahim," re
sounded through the still midnight air. The
busy stir of preparation was begun, and after the
usual refreshment we were fairly en route before
two o'clock. The songs of the Arabs kept us well
awake, and at ten o'clock we stopped to break-
fast, and remained reposing for six hours.

As we passed through Sidon yesterday the
people were seated in groups outside the houses,
gaily dressed, and rejoicing at the victory gained
by the Pacha's troops over those of the Sultan.

We continued along the sea-shore, and were
astonished to behold the accumulation of sand
over the mulberry plantations. It is of a reddish
hue, and is said to increase every year. Several
gentlemen from Beyrout came to meet us, and a
young man from Mr. K brought the inf orma-

334 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

tion that Mr. T 's house had been engaged

for our reception. We stopped to take sherbet
at the same khan at which we before rested.

Friday, July 5. Beyrout. — We find Mr. T 's

house far more agreeable than a tent. It affords
better protection against insects, though not quite
impenetrable to the mosquitoes. The house
being unfurnished, we have accepted the offer of
Mr. Kilbey to procure us another bedstead, a sofa,
chairs, and table. Few situations can be more
lovely than that of this residence. The hill on
which it stands is covered with gardens. On one
side, in the distance, soar the magnificent moun-
tains of Lebanon ; on the other are noble planta-
tions of palms, mulberry-trees, and others, reach-
ing down to the very borders of the sea.

Mr. T is one of the missionaries, and is

very civil and accommodating to strangers.

Saturday, July 6. Beyrout. — The steam-boat
Acheron, Captain Kennedy, arrived early this
morning. We shall, please God, take our depar-
ture in her for Alexandria, as soon as the Indian
mail shall have arrived. Rabbi I , an en-
graver, has presented us with two bottles of wine,
which is not to be obtained here except through
such friendly sources. Lemons also are very
scarce.

Among the objects which excited our curio-

BEYROUT. 335

sity not the least remarkable was the dress of
the female Druses, who wear a sort of horn, or
trumpet, on the head, projecting in front so as to
keep their veils from resting on their face. The
instrument is made of metal resembling silver,
and the women say that they wear it for the
purpose of calling their husbands to their aid
in time of danger, its sound being sufficiently
powerful to be heard in the distant mountains.

Mr. T , his sister-in-law, and two of his

daughters visited us.

Sunday, July 7. Beyrout. — The English and
French newspapers, with the calls of numerous
visitors, among whom are the Austrian consul, the
governor, a French gentleman from Kaifa, and
others, greatly help to protect us against the
incursions of ennui. All who converse with us
loudly express their admiration of our courage
and perseverance in accomplishing a journey in
spite of obstacles presented by war, plague,
brigands, and the intense heat of a Syrian
summer. The Divine mercy has protected us
against the dangers arising from these various
sources of peril ; and we have now but to reflect
with thankfulness on the opportunities afforded
us of relieving the distresses of our brethren.
Hhasan, Saad-Eddin, and Bekhor remain with
us during our stay here, and Ibrahim, though

336 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL

our dinners and breakfasts are brought ready
dressed from the town, will continue in our
service till we return to Malta.

Monday, July 8. Beyrout. — My dear M

finds himself much indisposed this morning.
The effects of sickness are especially depressing
in a foreign land, where climate, the habits of the
people and a different mode of living tend so
materially to cut off the relief and supports
which may be had at home. Graciously has the
Almighty aided me under trying circumstances.,
and bestowed a fortitude on me not natural to my
disposition. In this, as in our former tour, I have
felt my spirits rise as we have proceeded on our
journey. For this I cannot be sufficiently grate-
ful, and I trust that the voyage from this place
will soon restore health and cheerfulness to my
dear M .

Mr. M , our consul, sent yesterday to ap-
prise us of the hourly expected arrival of the
Indian Mail, almost immediately after which the
steamer will proceed to Alexandria and Malta.
We are, therefore, again on the alert, preparing
for our departure, and to-day sent a part of our

luggage on board the Acheron. M also wrote

to Mr. Young, the Consul at Jerusalem, forward-
ing him some dollars — one- third for the Christian
Burial-ground, and two-thirds for the indigent

BEYROUT. 337

Christians in the Holy City. He next wrote to
Mr. Thomson, and sent him some money for the
poor Christians of Beirout, an acknowledgment
for the accommodation we had enjoyed in that
gentleman's house. Nor has Mr. Amzalag been
forgotten, to whom the promise for the poor
Israelites of Jerusalem was repeated.

Every day during our residence here I have
received bouquets of carnations, roses, orange and
lemon blossoms, the perfume of which is too
powerful for even the unroofed hall. They are,
therefore, placed on the balcony, and there
mingle their odours with those of the countless
flowers which fill the gardens around, and de-
light me with their beauties as I recline on the
sofa, prevented by the excessive heat from
leaving the house.

M— - is full of plans for ameliorating the
condition of the Jews in the Holy Land. He is
most anxious to reach Alexandria, when he pur-
poses, with the blessing of the Almighty, to make
several proposals to Mehemet Ali : — may they
prove successful, then indeed shall we have
been well repaid for any danger or anxiety en-
dured.

Tuesday, July 9. Beyrout. — M , thank the

Almighty, is better. He to-day presented gifts to •
the three Rabbis who are to sail this afternoon for •
z

338 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Jaffa, having taken charge of the money promised
for the poor people of Jerusalem, and also for
those of Hebron ; and gave our tents and mat-
tresses, together with some clothing, for the use
of the latter, to protect the more destitute of
them from <?he miseries of the rainy season.

A person called on us to-day on his return
from Vienna, where he had been studying medi-
cine ; and, according to the testimonials which he
had received from eminent professors, with no
slight degree of success. He was on his way
to Jerusalem, where his return had been long
expected by his wife and friends with intense
anxiety. Many months had passed since they
had heard any tidings of him ; and on the evening
previous to our departure from Jerusalem, the
poor woman came to us, weeping bitterly, and
beseeching us to make inquiries respecting her
husband, while her father-in-law added his en-
treaties that we would allow him to accompany
us. to Europe, that he might trace out, if possible,
the sojourn of his son ! How will their grief be
changed into joy when they behold him again,
skilled in a profession that may tend to their in-
dependence !

Wednesday, July 10. Beyrout. — M , re-
suming his industrious habit of writing before
breakfast, has given happy indications of return-

BEYROUT. 339

ing health. He was at this employment, when a

note from Mr. K informed us of the arrival of

the Indian mail, and of the preparation of the
steamer to depart at two o'clock. This was fol-
lowed by a letter from Mr. M , who advised

us to go on board at one. Immediately all was

bustle; but the usual eagerness of my dear M

to be in time left little to arrange. What bag-
gage remained was soon despatched. The task of
leave-taking followed, and the Arab family who
had charge of Mr. Thomson's house, and were
really kind-hearted, well-conducted people, bade
us farewell with many an expression of earnest
feeling. The female was in delicate health, and
had often spoken to us of her sickness, evidently
hoping to hear of some remedy, the inhabitants
of the East haying great confidence in the skill
and knowledge of Europeans. I suffered greatly
from the heat in walking to the wharf, whence

Captain K 's boat conveyed us to the

Acheron, a vessel of seven hundred and twenty
tons, and one hundred and sixty horse power.
There was a heavy, rolling sea, and it required
all the ability of the officers to assist us to
ascend. We were under weigh by seven o'clock.
May the merciful Being who has hitherto pro-
tected us still bestow His gracious aid !

Thursday and Friday, July 11 and 12. On
z 2

340 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

board the Acheron. — The heavy sea of yesterday
caused an uneasiness which obliged us to have
our mattresses spread on deck, where I remained
till nine o'clock, when I was handed down to my
cabin, M remaining on deck all night, suf-
fering as usual from the movement of the vessel,
and the unpleasant attendants of smoke, oil, and
steam. An Arab family suffered no less than our-
selves— two little children and the maid-servant
especially — the mamma, whose gold ornaments
bedecking her head, neck, and arms, were suf-
ficiently conspicuous, retained her usual health

and spirits. M has gained little good from

his repose on deck, and Ann continues so indis-
posed that she has been obliged to consult the
doctor of the ship. May he succeed in adminis-
tering relief to our excellent and worthy servant !
We are going at the rate of seven or eight knots
an hour, but the heavy swell of the sea renders
one incapable of the exertion necessary to seek

amusement. M happily employs his mind

with the contemplation of plans that may
improve the condition of our brethren. He
intends passing the night again on deck.

Saturday, July 13. Alexandria. — Our voyage
being brought to a happy termination, we pro-
ceeded to the Hotel de 1J Europe, which we find a
very comfortable establishment. It is situated in

ALEXANDRIA. 341

the new square, which for extent and uniformity
would not disgrace any city in Europe. The
style of its architecture is French, but fragments
of columns and beautiful capitals found in the
environs, decorate many of the entrances. A
fountain is being constructed in the centre of the
square, and most of the consuls and the richest
of the inhabitants have their residences here.
Its situation, in the vicinity of the sea, renders it
an agreeable evening promenade, and it is much
frequented as a place of fashionable resort.

I observed a far greater number of people in
the European costume than on our former visit ;
but this city always presents a motley group of
all nations, and is just now more than ordinarily
gay in consequence of the late victory. Even
the firing is still continued, and the women and
children parade the streets singing an Arab song
of triumph. We received visits from the chiefs
of our people, from the British consul, and other
gentlemen.

M went this morning, in a handsome

sedan-chair, lent to him by the Sardinian consul,
to pay his respects to the Pacha. He was ac-
companied by Dr. Loewe, and met by appoint-
ment, at the palace, Boghos Bey and Colonel
Campbell, the British consul-general. He made
in due form his intended request with regard to

342 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

the cultivation of the Land in Palestine and
Syria, to which he received a most favourable
reply, with a promise that his highness would

confirm it in writing. M also entreated

the Pacha that the wall of Tiberias, which was
destroyed by the earthquake, should be repaired,

and to this his highness also assented. M

then presented him with a medal, bearing a
likeness of our most gracious Queen, which was
struck by order of the authorities of the City of
London, to commemorate her Majesty's visit to
the Guildhall, on the 9th of November, 1837. He
examined it attentively, and appeared pleased

with it ; and having asked M if it was a

good likeness of the Queen, thanked him for it.

Mr. Waghorn paid us a long visit. He is most
vsanguine as to the practicability of forming a
road across the desert to India.

Sunday, July 14. From Alexandria, on board
the Steam-boat. We were so disturbed by mus-
quitoes, during the night that scarcely an hour's
rest was permitted us, and thankful we were for
the return of day.

The Pacha's boat was in readiness to convey
us to the Acheron, which lay at anchor some
distance off: the passage, however, was soon
made, and we found ourselves safely seated on
the spacious deck of this excellent steam-ship.

ALEXANDRIA. 343

As usual, it was long, that is, nearly three hours,
before we weighed anchor. The Egyptian fleet
was again in full view, presenting a noble
appearance.

Monday, July 15, on board the Acheron. — Wind
contrary, but proceeding at eight or nine knots
an hour ; we all feel poorly. It will not suit
fastidious people to travel in hot climates, espe-
cially at sea. A degree of lassitude deprives one
of energy to pursue any sort of occupation, at
least so I found it. Byron and Campbell were
brought ; they were looked into, then laid aside.

Tuesday, July 16, on board the Acheron steam-
boat.— Still a contrary wind, but making rapid
progress. The captain assures us a passage of
less than five days. This is some consolation for
sickness, especially when we remember our former
voyage of twenty-four days. Thanks to the
steam-boat establishment. The poor turtle, of
which there are six on board, and turned on their
backs, are fair objects of commiseration. In this
position they can only move their paws, and are
merely sustained by a little water occasionally
thrown over them. Our chicken feast will termi-
nate to-day, the supply brought from Alexandria
being finished, and it is time it should be. In
passing near the Isle of Candia this afternoon,
our vessel rolled tremendously, and continued to

344 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

do so for two or three hours. I remained on deck
watching the silvery waves, and, invited by the
«tar^decked firmament and soft bright moon,
seated myself on one of the benches, enveloped in
my plaid mantle, which I have often found ser-
viceable in no slight degree. Some of the gentle-
men kept up a philosophical conversation till
nearly twelve, interrupted occasionally by the
stewardess coming to state the hour.

Wednesday, July 17, on board the Acheron. —
We proceed to-day at the rate of eight and nine

knots. M remains on deck both night and

day. To-day we had our dinner served there ;
but the salt-fish, eggs, and maccaroni, of which it
chiefly consisted, could not tempt me. I also
prudently refused to partake of some excellent
melons offered us by our fellow-passenger, Mrs.
T . This lady possesses an excellent o-arden

»/ JT £3

near .Alexandria, comprising a hundred acres of
ground, rented from the Pacha, with whom her
husband is on intimate terms. The abilities of
his highness are spoken of with admiration by
many. He certainly has displayed great talent
in warfare, and much energy of character in many
of the improvements which he has introduced.
Happy would it be were he to direct his mind
more immediately to the moral amelioration, to
the general civilization of his people, and the pro-
tection of their property.

MALTA. 345

Thursday, July 18, on board the Acheron. —
The captain assures us that we shall arrive in the
harbour of Malta before ten o'clock this evening.
M — — has promised two gallons of spirits to the
man who shall first descry land. I passed a very
indifferent night, having suffered greatly from
eating too freely of different sorts of melons, as
well as from heat of the weather. I could not
obtain any rest, and to-day have no appetite.
The sofa-cushions are kindly ordered on deck by
the captain, and these, with the lounging-chair,

alternately serve to afford me repose. M

treated the crew with a sheep and a double share
of grog on entering the harbour of Malta before
ten o'clock at night.

Friday, July 19. Malta. Fort Manuel. —
Tranquillity reigning in the ship, I passed a
pleasant night, and we all breakfasted with the

captain in the cabin. M has been on shore

to engage rooms in the lazaretto at fort Manuel,
and also a guardiano and a lad to attend on us.
Our late Maltese valet-de-place came in a boat
alongside the ship, to solicit our re-acceptance of
his services ; but as our domicile at Fort Manuel
will necessarily be perfectly stationary and im-
moveable, we shall find no occasion for his aid.

At three o'clock we were stationed at our new
temporary abode, having been put on shore by

346 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

the boat of the Acheron. The captain presented
us with six bottles of old port, and a turtle, in-
tended to be presented to the governor, but which
we could not send him, the sailor having killed it
in bringing it on shore.

Saturday, July 20. Fort Manuel. — The ne-
cessity of having all our trunks turned topsey
turvey, and every article therein rummaged over
by the guardiano, even to the smallest trinket,
lest a piece of cotton should escape, has proved a
great annoyance to the whole party, and rendered
this, I may say, in reality a black Saturday. The
quarantine regulations are much more severe than
on our former visit, and are very strictly adhered
to. A great privation is experienced in the with-
drawal of the permission formerly granted to
enjoy a boat in the harbour, and which afforded
an infinite relief to the monotony of the seclu-
sion. This tedious quarantine must certainly
prove an impediment to general travelling in
Egypt, and pernicious to the interests of that
country, as well as to this island. But perhaps
the infectious maladies to which warm climates
are subject renders it a matter of imperative ne-
cessity. We dined early, and took our fast at
seven. Ann is very poorly. I trust that all the
maladies and unpleasantnesses will subside and
vanish away with Tishea-bedb.

MALTA. 347

Sunday, July 21. Malta. Fort Manuel. —
The extreme heat of the weather is almost insup-
portable to-day, and fasting, of course, does not
render us less sensible to its enervating effects.
We are incapable of any application ; the book
is taken up, and again laid down. Galignani
affords some slight recreation.

When captain and Mrs. C 's name were

handed to us, it was with difficulty I could
descend to the parlatorio to speak to them. It is
in reality a fatiguing undertaking from the

number of the stairs. M was incapable of

moving a step. Scarcely had I returned, when
Sir Hector Grey was announced, and again I had
to recount the history of our journey in the Holy
Land, of escaped perils, and of pleasures enjoyed.
This gentleman recommends us to change our
rooms, for though they are the most spacious in
the building, still their southern aspect, and their
being situated over the kitchen of the traiteur,

are great objections. Mr. C has received

orders to prepare the apartments lately inhabited

by the Duke of D , said to be much cooler.

We have just perceived three stars, and thank
the Almighty for having allowed us to perform
the duties of the day.

Monday, July 22. Malta. Fort Manuel. —
Moved into the northern part of the palazzo,

348 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

which we find more airy and agreeable, but the
thermometer at two o'clock was again 87° in the
shade. Dr. Loewe was taken very poorly, and
obliged to go to bed ; so that, unfortunately,
another is added to our list of invalids ; but I
trust that all will soon be well again. The rocks,
which almost surround the bay, greatly hinder
the circulation of the air, and render Malta at
this time of the year not the most desirable resi-
dence. To be subject, therefore, to a prolonged
quarantine of twenty days, is somewhat annoy-
ing ; but we cannot have everything to suit our
inclinations in this world, and it is best to submit
with a good grace to that which it is not in our
power to alter. Admiral Sir John Lewis paid

us a visit, as did Mr. and Mrs. C and their

daughter. Twelve years have changed the latter
from a nice little girl into a handsome young

lady. Captain K and his officers also called,

and brought a copy of the log. All proffer their

services with the greatest kindness. Mrs. C

sent us some oranges, which the servant obtained
from the governor's garden; a very acceptable
present, there being no oranges at this season in
the market.

Tuesday, July 23. Fort Manuel — We find our
present suite of appartments much more desirable
than those which we previously occupied, the

MALTA. 349

rooms and arcade extending all round the build-
ing, commanding an extensive prospect, and the
enjoyment of a free current of air. The key of the
bastions we have- not yet made use of, our party
nob being sufficiently recovered even to enjoy the
exercise of a moonlight walk. Armstrong in-
forms us the steam-boat from* Gibraltar has
arrived in the harbour. We look anxiously at
every sail in view while confined to this spot. Dr.
Loewe continues poorly, attended with shivering

and fever. M thought it advisable to send for

the physician on the establishment. The captain
of the guardiano was obliged to be apprised of
it, and also of the necessity of our sending for
another female attendant, as no one can be
admitted without his knowledge. Four persons
came with the doctor, who pronounced Dr. Loewe
to have fever, and ordered him to be kept low.
He also saw Ann, who is extremely weak and
poorly. It was laughable to observe the cautious
manner in which the Maltese gentlemen re-
mained in the rooms, lest they should come in

contact with any of us. M felt Ann's pulse

for the physician.

Wednesday, July 24. Fort Manuel. — Sir John
Lewis paid us a visit at the parlatorio this
morning. I found it very fatiguing to go down
so many steps to receive him, but it was requisite
to exert myself, I being the only one of the party

350 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

capable of it. Dr. Loewe's fever again returned
about the same hour as yesterday, with the
shivering. Ann is not any better. The doctor
came late ; he says she may not take any wine,
but only cool drink and arrow-root. Sir Hector
Grey has sent us a present of syrup of vinegar

made at Rome,*and Signor L has also sent

a large hamper filled with salt fingeres, sausages,
liqueurs, and a gilt glass vase filled with sweet-
meats. We have a person come to do the wash-
ing, who remains on the establishment the whole
of the quarantine, as no one who once enters and
comes in contact is allowed to leave during the
twenty days. I regret that our clothes cannot
be sent to the excellent Valetta laundresses.

Thursday, July 25. Fort Manuel. — The French
steam-boat has arrived, also the Megara, Cap-
tain G , from Gibraltar. The former states

that the Turkish* Capit^n Pacha has delivered up
the Turkish fleet to Ali Pacha, and that it is now
in the harbour of Alexandria. Previously to our
departure from that port, it was confidently
reported that such would be the case, as the
prime minister at Constantinople was at variance
with the Capitan Pacha, and the latter would
not submit to his government.

I have been for some time watching an im-
mense number of black rats, as large as small
cats, running about the fortress. I trust they

MALTA 351

will not reach our windows and invade our apart-
ments, for we are compelled to have the windows
open at night, notwithstanding musquitoes and
other intruders. The spacious lazaretto is now
completely full. Among the last arrivals was a
Catholic archbishop and suite. We did not see
any one to-day but the physician, who finds his
patients improved. The abstemious regimen
seems to succeed. We took tea on the arcade,
where we remained till twelve o'clock, the light
of the moon and stars producing a lustre equal
to that of day.

Friday, July 26. Fort Manuel — Wrote to

Mrs. P and Mrs. M'G in reply to their

letters of inquiry. The Acheron departed about
one o'clock this forenoon. The number of small
pleasure-boats, with awnings, rowing about the
harbour, makes me envy the refreshing exercise,
and feel painfully the privation created by the
existing quarantine laws. The doctor just now
reports favourably of his two patients, so that
we no longer entertain apprehensions of a longer
detention here, though the guardiano and
traiteur, perhaps, would not object to it. The
weather not being so sultry to-day, makes the

confinement less tedious. M even begins to

be more reconciled, and says it will soon pass.
A large French vessel has just arrived in the
harbour from Marseilles, and various reports are

352 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

afloat, as usual. Certainly the Pacha of Egypt
has proved himself a successful warrior, for
having vanquished the Turkish army, the fleet
now surrenders to his power. Some of our new
quarantine neighbours amused themselves with
singing and music during the evening. Un-
luckily we do not derive the same pleasure
which they seem to obtain from the wiry and
discordant sounds of an indifferent violin.

Saturday, July 27. Fort Manuel — The French
packet-boat has arrived, bringing Galignani's
papers to the 17th. The news of the Sultan's
death had reached London and Paris. We are
to have pratique on the 6th of August, including
in the twenty days the day of arrival and the
day of departure, by order of Admiral Sir John

L . Mrs. C has lent us a very convenient

machine for ice-water. It is made of tin, shaped
like a tea-urn. The ice is placed where the
heater would be put, and merely by turning the
spout, we have refreshing water on our table all
day.

We walked up and down the terrace in the
evening, but the rays of the moon were almost
as hot as those of the sun, and it wore a red cast.
The air was exceedingly sultry. A barge, illu-
minated most brilliantly, with a large party, and
a military band on board, was impelled along the
harbour by several small boats, with a single

MALTA. 353

large light in each. Tranquilly they glided
along the surface of the water, and presented a
very beautiful appearance.

The doctor finds his patients improved, but
Ann is still in bed. She has had a tedious
and serious indisposition, but I trust before
we are allowed pratique, she will be perfectly
renovated.

Sunday, July 28. Fort Manuel. — It is reported
that there are 150,000 Russian troops at Con-
stantinople. This confirms the rumours at
Alexandria. The political horizon is cloudy and
threatening, and whether the atmosphere will
recover its serenity without some severe storm,
time only can determine. There are about three
hundred and fifty persons at present performing
quarantine here : of these two hundred and forty
are pilgrims from Mecca, &c., the remainder are
from various parts of the world. It is so well
arranged, that each party has a separate apart-
ment, and is not inconvenienced by others ; in
fact we seldom see any of them, there being
sufficient space for exercise for all. It must
afford a great deal of employment and profit to
the Maltese, as a guardiano must be engaged to
every new arrival. We again drank tea, and
passed the evening on the balcony. A party of
gentlemen amused themselves with cricket on the

A A

354 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

fort. Some sang, others played the flute. The
number of boats, with parties and lights in each,
gliding along the glassy waters, formed an agree-
able variety to the scene. We retire about
eleven, though I am afraid of sitting in a room
with lights, lest they should attract the mos-
quitoes, already sufficiently numerous.

Monday July 29. Fort Manuel, — At an early
hour we were awoke by the firing of cannon.
Various were the cries in answer to our inquiries
respecting the occasion. Some said it was in
consequence of the arrival of the son of the King
of France, &c. At length the true reason was
discovered, it was the anniversary of the three
days.

The Hebrew letters, descriptive of the Holy
Land, and the mode of cultivation, &c., are being
translated into English by Dr. Loewe. They
contain a great deal of useful information.* Mr.

and Mrs. C , who are just returned from

Gaza, visited us to-day. They remark, that the
heat this summer is greater than in ordinary
years ; the thermometer at Valetta on Saturday
last was 94°, here it was from 82° to 87°, there
being a refreshing breeze. In the evening we
heard some good singing from our neighbours in
quarantine, a large party of French, English, and
* See Appendix.

FORT MANUEL. 355

Italians. They have a piano, flute, and violin.
Some of them have good voices and sing well,
the ladies taking their part.

The music continued till ten o'clock ; I retired
half an hour after. M has regained his in-
dustrious habits, which I am always accustomed
to regard as a good sign of returning health.

A supply of ice is furnished twice a day. It is
brought from the mountains, and affords a large
revenue to the contractor.

Tuesday, July 30. Fort Manuel. — I regret to
say Ann has passed a very indifferent night. Our
numerous friends continue to support their well-
merited character for hospitality ; but we are so
carefully attended to by the traiteur and Mrs.

A that we need to accept only oranges and

" Galignani."

Wednesday, July 31. Fort Manuel. — Ann still
continues very ill. I trust she will be so far
recovered by Tuesday as to be able to leave the
lazaretto, and go with us in the steamer. At
present there are about three hundred pilgrims
performing quarantine. It is also expected that
there will shortly be a great number of arrivals
from India, the difficulty of crossing the desert
being so much diminished. Ann finds the pain
which she suffered removed since the application
of leeches this afternoon ; and having taken the
AA 2

356 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

prescribed medicine, she has fallen asleep, and
continued tranquil all the evening.

Thursday, August 1. Fort Manuel. — Alas ! that
I should have to record the death of our poor
servant, Ann Flinn. How delighted she was at
the idea of visiting Jerusalem, and when, by the
mercy of our Divine Protector we reached that
city, how earnest, how grateful were her expres-
sions of joy that she had the privilege of visiting
the sepulchre which her religion sanctified ! She
spoke this morning of the feeling with which
she had been impressed on contemplating the
scenes so dear to her thoughts, and referred to a
memorandum in her Prayer-Book, dated Mount
of Olives, 10th of June, when she had read the
twentieth Psalm, " which," she added, " is most
beautiful." These were her last words, and she
expired about two o'clock.

Dr. Loewe, on looking into her chamber at
his usual early hour, was greatly shocked to
perceive so evident and sudden a change, for,
according to the account of two females who
remained with her, she had slept throughout the
night. He found her hands and feet cold, her
eyes fixed, and the pulse scarcely perceptible.
The physician of the lazaretto, on being imme-
diately sent for, expressed his apprehension to
my dear M , who hastened to her room. She

FORT MANUEL. 357

remarked that she must be greatly worse, for
that Dr. Loewe seemed frightened and red in the

face. Wishing to divert her attention M

inquired respecting her family, and on noticing
the memorandum in the Prayer-Book, observed,
" You prize your Prayer-Book as well as I do
mine." When I went into the room she told me
she had passed a very good night. An English
physician accompanied the other on his second

visit, and the Rev. Mr. C also visited her ;

but consciousness soon ceased, and she expired
without a groan. We have lost a faithful and
affectionate attendant, and one whose gentleness
of disposition and propriety of conduct endeared
her to the whole party.

In this climate the interment takes place the
day after the decease. The medical man returned
in the afternoon, and gave a certificate that poor
Ann's death was not caused by the plague, but by
a pulmonary affection. They wished to remove
the corpse immediately to a magazine below, but
we objected to this, and in the evening proceeded
with the physician, the guardiano, &c., in boats to
the lazaretto burying-ground, to select a grave.
Many were already dug!

Friday, August 2. Fort Manuel — Just returned
from fulfilling the last duties to poor Ann ! The
ceremony was deeply affecting, and well calcu-

358 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

lated to inspire solemn convictions of the vanity
of the world and its concerns. At six in the morn-
ing we set off in boats, the physician, the clergy-
man, and clerk having respectfully arrived to
attend us. The two captains, the guardiano, and
Armstrong were also present. A basket of quick-
lime being ready, the lid of the coffin was re-
moved, and the lime poured upon the body. The
countenance of the departed was thinner than in
life, but calm and placid. Peace be to her. In
half an hour her mortal remains would become
like the dust spread over them. May her
Heavenly Father receive her spirit with forgive-
ness !

Saturday, August 3. Fort Manuel — If ever I
experienced the happiness of the Sabbath it was
to-day. I sought and found rest to the mind ;
a charm to the spirits, and a happy feeling of
resignation to the will of our Heavenly Father.
Yesterday we were oppressed at the apparent
sudden demise of our poor servant. This day
gives us leisure to acknowledge the mercy of
Providence in enabling us to reach a place where
medical aid could be procured, where we are sur-
rounded by English people, and where the inter-
ment of the deceased could be attended with all
the decencies of religion. Happy, indeed, is the
day of rest when the mind can correct its way-

FORT MANUEL. 359

ward ness, and become more and more sensible,
that trust in God is the only sentiment which
can enable us to deduce good from evil, and ani-
mate and strengthen the hopes of a blessed futu-
rity.

Some difficulty was started respecting our
passport, in consequence of its being lined with
cloth. They wish us to have a new one to pass
the quarantine, for engaging places in the French
steam -boat for next Tuesday, when we hope to
have pratique. By speaking, however, to Mr.

C the objection was removed. We walked

in the evening on the terrace.

Sunday, August 4. Fort Manuel. — We appro-
priated the whole of the forenoon to prepara-
tions fortaking pratique. The Lycurgus steam-
boat starts on Tuesday, and will put into Civita
Vecchia, where we left our carriage, and whence
we purpose proceeding by the same vessel to
Marseilles. There are forty-five new arrivals
to-day at the quarantine, among which are the
French ambassador and suite from Corfu.

Being greatly fatigued with the heat of the
weather, we took courage and walked some time
on the ramparts. This was the first time we
availed ourselves of the advantage of having the
key at our command. All the apartments of the
Lazaretto were lighted up, and the edifice pre-

360 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

sented a gay and festive appearance. Some of
the newly-arrived were occupied with spreading
out their effects, while others amused themselves
with the more pleasurable exercises of music
and singing, promenading, or with the yet more
substantial enjoyments of the table.

Monday, August 5. Fort Manuel— We are
pleased, in no slight degree, with the prospect
of quitting the Lazaretto to-morrow morning.
Though this is the best establishment of the
kind, possessing the advantages of a beautiful
situation, and being of great extent, the heat of
the climate, and the surrounding white walls,

often led M to speak of it as a prison. In

the evening we went to see the tombstone
erected to the memory of poor Ann Flinn, and
had the vexation to find it and the inscription
but very indifferently executed.

Tuesday, August 6. — This morning at half -past
six we had the gratification to leave the quaran-
tine harbour ; but our pleasure was mingled with
pain, for one who had shared in the toils and de-
lights of our pilgrimage was now mingled with
the dust.

The captain of the Lazaretto had behaved with
great attention and politeness during the whole

of our abode there, and M , on taking

leave, presented him with a douceur in acknow-

VALETTA TO CIVITA VECCHIA. 361

ledgment of his civility ; but he declined accept-
ing it, observing that he was not allowed to
receive any present.

We found the caleche waiting for us according
to order, and were soon once more in the streets of
Valetta, through which the air was blowing
freshly, as if to inspire us with a quicker sense
and enjoyment of recovered freedom. We were
set down at Durnsford's hotel, and then has-
tened to the house of prayer, to offer our devout
thanks to the merciful and Almighty Being who
had so continually protected, guided, and com-
forted us.

Wednesday, August 7. — During a farewell call
on the governor his excellency said he had heard
of us, both during and after our journey. We
were now ready to bid adieu to the hospitable
isle, and were followed by a host of lame and
blind, old and young, to the Custom-house stairs,
down which we stepped, probably for the last
time, into the boat, in which Dr. Loewe was
already seated. We were soon on board the
French steamer, the neat appearance of which
excited our admiration. It was twelve o'clock
before she started, two hours having been lost
in waiting for a passenger, who being extremely
deaf could not understand the summons to
hasten on board, though observing from the
shore the busy preparations for departure.

362 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

Some rolling and threatening white clouds,
with a brisk breeze, made us fear a squall ; nor
did the answers of the officers to our inquiries
tend to dissipate our apprehensions. But lying
down on the benches, enveloped in our mantles,
we soon forgot, in tranquil sleep, the dread of
storms and every other danger.

Thursday, August 8. On board the Lycurgm.
— Before daylight this morning I was awakened
by a noise which I imagined was occasioned by
the pouring of cinders into the sea. The noise,
however, becoming louder and louder, I began to
calculate the lavish waste of the government

stores, when M 's voice, and the exhortation

not to be alarmed, made me open my eyes. I
instantly perceived flashes of lightning of awful
vividness, followed by loud and frequent peals of
thunder. The cabin also was by this time almost
inundated with rain ; and at the vociferous com-
mand of the steward and captain, two or three
men, sans certmonie, entered the cabin to cover the
skylight. We were now near Cape Passero, and
the water- spouts and storms of our former voyage
came forcibly to our memory. The terrors of
that period were happily not renewed. This
was but a summer tempest. The thunder and
lightning cleared the atmosphere of yesterday's
sultry heat, and again the firmament blessed the

VALETTA TO CIVITA VECCHIA. 363

sight with its celestial and brightening blue. I
dressed and went on deck, when a clear view of
the city of Messina presented itself; the noble
row of houses, just commenced on our previous
visit, now forming a fine embellishment to the
shore, while the mountains of Sicily on the one
side, and those of Calabria on the other, gave to
the whole scene a character of grandeur and
sublimity. About two o'clock the cloud-capped
top of Stromboli offered itself to view ; and not
long after, as we sailed round the island, the
crater became distinctly visible.

The afternoon was fine, but we had again
much lightning in the evening.

Friday, August 9. On board the Lycurgus. —
We have just passed the Lipari Isles, and Ischia,
Vesuvius, and the small towns at its foot have sue-
cessively presented themselves to view. Towards
evening a dark cloud overspread the heavens, and
took from our sight the brilliant stars which had
just before lit up the sea with their soft and cheer-
ing rays. I dreaded the approach of a storm, and
though we had to encounter only an increase of
the breeze, the creaking and rolling of the vessel
exposed me to much suffering, and I remained
on deck till near eleven.

Saturday, August 10. Harbour of Civita Vecchia.
— The rolling and creaking of the ship continued

364 NOTES FROM A JOURNAL.

throughout the night, and almost deprived me of
sleep. At dawn of day we anchored in this har-
bour, and having received the visits of several
friends who came on board to offer their congra-
tulations, sailed again at two o'clock for Mar-
seilles, where, by the mercy of our Divine Pro-
tector, we arrived safely, and in health and spirits.
Thus terminated a tour, every day employed in
which furnished us with proofs equally affecting
and instructive of the Divine mercy, and at the
same time with the most profitable incentives to
the exercise of thought. May the gratification
experienced during the prosecution of the journey
produce in our minds the permanent fruits of a
more perfect devotion to the Almighty, and of a
yet clearer and clearer apprehension of the way
in which we may best fulfil his will, and perfect
the designs which he had in our creation.

END OF THE JOURNAL.

EXTEACTS

iFROM SOME OP THE

EEPOETS, LETTEKS, & ADDEESSES,

ON

AGRICULTURE IN THE HOLY LAND,

RECEIVED BY SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE, F.R.S., &c. <fec.
Btmng fjis sojourn tfjcre.

TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINALS BY DR. L. LOEWE.

SUFFICIENT has been said in the preceding pages to intimate
to the reader that the journey, of which they offer a faint
record, was not undertaken with a mere selfish purpose. The
object contemplated was one in which humanity and religion
are equally interested, and to the success of which scarcely
any mind of ordinary benevolence can be entirely indifferent.
In the course of her narrative the writer of the Journal has
alluded to this subject with such particularity as the extent
of her notes would allow ; but it is a matter of so much
importance, and possessing so many claims to attention, that
she avails herself of the existence of some original documents
and letters to exhibit, in the most authentic manner, the sen-
timents with which Sir Moses Montefiore's plans and efforts
were met by those for whose benefit they were designed.

APPENDIX.

ADDRESS

FROM THE REPRESENTATIVES OP THE GERMAN AND
PORTUGUESE CONGREGATIONS OP ZAFED.

To our Lord, who is the crown of our head ; who, by His
virtuous and noble deeds, is most distinguished amongst
men, SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE. May his light shine for
ever ! May the Almighty will it to be so. — AMEN.

Blessed be our God ; for His mercy to those that fear Him
has been abundant, and in our dire distress He remembered
how deeply we had drunk from the cup of misfortune. We
have now seen that Israel is not left in widowhood, for there
are still men of high repute who are ready to strengthen
those whose hands are weak and whose feet are unstable,
that they may obtain the favour of the Creator (to whom be
all glory for ever and ever).

These lines are designed to express to your honour our
gratitude for the beneficial light which we, in common with
all our brethren in the Holy City, have derived from your
very liberal succour. For the good which your deeds con-

368 APPENDIX.

veyed, the poor in this land humbly, and with the most
fervent feeling, proffer you their thanks. And on behalf of
that class we have now to entreat your honour's most par-
ticular attention, to the end that your honour's compassion
may be kindly shown them. You, Sir, have doubtless heard
of, and probably have also seen their afflicting poverty, and
their generally wretched condition. There are amongst them
some who wish for assistance in the way of employment, no
matter in what it may consist, and in the height of their
distress they humbly pray your honour to create it for them.
They would most gladly engage in agricultural occupations,
or become shepherds, although they have hitherto had no
experience in such pursuits ; yet, impelled by their poverty
and their fervid attachment to this land, in which they wish
ever to dwell, they would apply themselves to such with
indefatigable assiduity.

The persons just referred to venture humbly to petition
your honour to buy, or to hire, a piece of fertile land, consist-
ing either of vineyards or olive-plantations, according as you
may be able to treat for such with the governors of this region,
and to place the same in the hands of those who are disposed
as we have related ; so that by rearing cattle, or other em-
ployments in connection with the soil, they may establish
means for their own maintenance. For those who are learned
in our sacred ordinances, and who devote themselves to the
study thereof, we entreat that they may be enabled, as here-
tofore, to continue their studies, by the wonted protection and
support of our honoured benefactor (may your life ever be an
object of the Almighty's especial care), so that by this project
the worship of our God may in nowise fall off, nor the know-
ledge of the holy law be diminished. By this means will Sir
Moses strengthen our tottering knees — the poor — who by
their extreme penury are in danger of sinking to the earth.
£uch an action will assuredly be looked upon by the Almighty
as one of sacred merit, and will remain before him as a

APPENDIX. 369

memorial by which the horn of your honour will be elevated
till the arrival of the great and righteous Redeemer.
Signed by

ABRAHAM DOB, from Awaritsh, Chief Rabbi.

KHAYIM BEN PHOEBUS HALEVI.

JOSEPH JUZEF HAKOHEN.

DOB BERISH, from Bad.

POSTSCRIPT.— We, the undersigned, also declare that our
mouths are filled with praise, even as the depths are filled
with water, and our tongues are laden with rejoicings to the
Almighty (blessed be his name), for that he did not leave us
without a redeemer (protector), whom we have found in our
lord, Sir Moses Montefiore : he who seeks righteousness, and
shows compassion to the suffering, and endeavours, with un-
remitting energy, to promote the happiness of his people,
and who is to them as a strong tower of defence. May his
glory be elevated, for he withheld not his benevolence and
his friendship from his brethren — from the nation of the
Almighty and his inheritance.

His eyes have been cast upon this land in order to its being
cultivated by our brethren. Thus will he fortify the cities of
the pious and the learned, who are, alas ! like broken vessels
(to which sad condition, we fear, our sins have provoked the
Almighty to reduce us). Our benefactor, wishing to preserve
them from utterly perishing, has devised a plan for securing a
comfortable subsistence for those that remain ; which is, that
every one should labour in some one branch of the business of
agriculture. By this means they will all be provided with a
maintenance from their own industry. Thus, also, will the
Holy City be preserved, for the learned and their pupils will
continue to devote their mental powers to cultivating the
knowledge of the holy law, and the worship of the Almighty,
whilst the ordinary people will perform their due tasks in the
field, and bring food for their families from the fruits of the
B B

870 APPENDIX.

field and vineyard with which the Almighty may have blessed
them.

The effects of your plan, Sir Moses, will prove of the
utmost importance ; they will become to you as a thousand
shields, which will ward off all ills from your life and peace.

May your dignity never decay. By the abundance of this
good, many will, under the Almighty's blessing, live to
enjoy it.

Written in the year " Happy art thou, and it shall be well
with thee."

Signed by the principals of the Portuguese congregation
at Zafed.

]STAKHOOM MlZRAKHI.

ABRAHAM SHOSHANA.
SHEMUEL ABU.
Seal.

371

Z AFED

REPORT OF RABBI JOSEPH,

THE SON OF KABBI SHIMEON ASHKENAZI.

ON THE WEST OF ZAFEIX

Statement of the

extent of each

Number of places

Names of Vil-
lages in the
< icinity of
Zafed, under
the Governor
of that Town.

Field, and the
quantity of
Grain required
for sowing each
Field, which is
known by the
number of the

The length and
breadth of each
Field, shown by
the number of
hours occupied
in walking
through it.

Statement of what
Wells and Rivers irri-
gate the Fields favour-
able for the forming of
Gardens or Parks.

in the same dis-
trict which have
no constant sup-
ply of Water,
but which are
well adapted for
the cultivation

Fadans em-

of Vines and

ployed.*

Olive-trees.

Timnai . .

40 Fadans

22 22

A large river

and 2 wells.

10

I

Kharis . .

Ditto.

do. do.

Ditto.

ditto.

Miroon . .

30 ditto.

2 3

The river Me-

gidu and 2

wells.

10

Tattaf . .

25 ditto.

1 2

1 large well

and 2 others.

15

* Fadan is a term which, in the neighbourhood of Zafed, signifies two oxer,
but in the neighbourhood of Acre it signifies three. Its general signification in
Arabic is " an ox attached to the plough," and thence it is used to denote a
certain quantity of ground to be tilled, or the course of tillage.

B B 2

372

APPENDIX.
ON THE NORTH OF ZAFED.

Names of
Villages.

Number of
Fadans for each
Field.

Length and
breadth of Field
shown by hours.

Wells and Rivers.

Number o i
places fit for
Vineyards, &c.

Kadita . .

25 Fadans.

1 2

—

15

Goosh Kha-
lab

30 ditto.

2 3

1 stream & 1 well

KefarKiras

25 ditto.

1 2

—

15

Fadar

25 ditto.

1 2

—

10

Ras Kha-
mar

25 ditto.

1 2

Tetaba . .

40 ditto.

2 3

—

20

Dalata . .

20 ditto.

1 2

—

20

Alma

50 ditto.

3 4

—

20

Amooka . .

10 ditto.

1 1

1 large well & Ismail

20

ON THE EAST OF ZAFED.

Mirnet, Al-
menia,Tai-
ba & neigh-
bourhood .

100 ditto.

6 8

1 large well

30

Kabea . .

50 ditto.

3 4

4 wells

20

Agargial-
amgar . .

30 ditto.

2 3

12 wells

30

Feram . .

30 ditto.

2 3

5 wells & 1 river

20

ON THE SOUTH OF ZAFED.

Ganeana . .

30 ditto.

2 3

—

—

Acbara,Ak-
ebi, and
Aniktela .

35 ditto.

2 3

4 wells

10

Dariatakhte
& Arshda .

3 ditto.

2 3

3 wells

20

APPENDIX.

373

THE SOUTH OF ZAFED— continued.

Names of
Villages.

Number of
Fadaiis for each
Field.

Length and
breadth of Field
shown by hours.

Wells and Rivers.

Number of
places fit for
Vineyards, &c.

Biria

3 Fadans.

2 3

5 wells

20

Eyn Zetoon

3 ditto.

2 3

1 large well

20

Elmednasli

40 ditto.

2 3

—

10

Aptekha . .

50 ditto.

6 8

2 rivers

10

Khoula . .

100 ditto.

12 16

2 rivers

10

Tabkha,Na-
bria, and
Notem . .

2 ditto.

1 2

20

Agayar . .

3 ditto.

2 3

—

20

Total Num-
ber of
Villages,
26.

Total of
Fadans,
350.

Length com-
puted by
hours, 66.
Breadth by
the same, 36.

Total number
of Gardens,
36.

Total of
places fit for
vineyards or
olive plan-
tations, 365.

The villages here named pay to the pasha in coin, one
hundred and eighty thousand piastres ; also three hundred
garas of wheat, which is equal to thirty thousand Egyptian
" roobas ; " five hundred garas of barley, equal to fifty thou-
sand Egyptian roobas ; and for each head, moreover, thirty-
three piastres.

STATEMENT OF THE EXPENSES OF CULTIVATION
FOR THE FIRST YEAR.

These, in the following year, will be lessened by one-half.
After a lapse of four or five years they might be much
further diminished by the productions of the gardens and
vineyards.

374 APPENDIX.

Piastres.
For the purchase of both wheat and barley seed for

nine hnndred and fifty fadans .... 28,275

Materials for the cultivation of the gardens and
vineyards, including wheat, barley, and lentils . 52,625
Wages of the labourers . . . . 23,275

Total .... 75,900

The purchase of lentil-seed, of each kind two kilas, would
amount, for each f adan seven karas,* to 6,500.

The formation of each garden will cost one hundred karas;
and, with God's permission, we shall renew six, 3,600.

The making of a fence around each vineyard costs at least
fifty talaries, (Spanish karas,) and the number altogether
which we intend, with God's help, to cultivate being three
hundred and eighty-five, the expense will be 10,250 talaries.

I have not mentioned the price of oxen and agricultural
implements, because Sir Moses said that the requisite imple-
ments should be sent hither from England ; and my humble
opinion is, that it would be the most beneficial to give the seed
to the proprietors of the villages, and to furnish them with
the amount of their expenses as a loan. If that were done,
they would supply oxen and agricultural tools ; and, with
God's blessing, thence forward our own earnings would pro-
bably cover all further expenses ; in that respect our share
would equal that of the peasants, but the pasha's dues would
have to be paid before any division could take place.

I have now to inform Sir Moses of the conditions into
which it is essential he should cause the pasha to enter :
without them the proposed plan cannot be put into operation.

1st. The pasha must station persons of tried courage to
protect each village, and the places belonging thereto, in
accordance with the custom observed in the time of Abdalla
Pasha, at the villages here named :— Gesser Benat Jacoob,

* Kara signifies a Spanish dollar.

APPENDIX. 375

Keshoor Joosif , Khan el Mina, and Shoonat El Moghrebin, in
the district of Senin ; and also at Zafed and Malkha.

2nd. These guards must always be in attendance when the
labourers are reaping the corn on the fields, or are otherwise
employed, in order to prevent anything from being stolen or
unlawfully removed.

3rd. Neither the Moudir of Acre, nor the Mousselim of
Zafed, shall have any power to interfere with the cultivators,
or with the people of the villages. (This clause is necessary
to prevent any occasion arising for bribing those parties :
because the money so given to them generally amounts to a
higher sum than that exacted by the pasha.) The money to
be paid to the pasha shall be taken from those only who are
really engaged with the fields, and not from the mere resi-
dents of the villages : the payment to be made between the
first month of Tamooz and the termination of the second, the
period of the harvest.

4th. The pasha shall guarantee that none of the cultivators
shall be forced into the military service. This condition will
incite the labourers to toil unremittingly. But if it should
not be G-od's pleasure for Sir Moses to be so successful, it will
be necessary that the pasha should, at least, order that none
be taken for soldiers during the harvest season ; and that
the sheikh of the village only should be empowered to select
the men required. The result of this stipulation would be,
that the men most suitable for the tillage would not be
removed.

5th. The cultivators shall pay the pasha's dues in cash,
instead of wheat and barley ; otherwise in the measure
termed the rooba of Acre. This condition is of much impor-
tance.

6th. Such productions of the country as shall be sent from
one place to another by sea shall be free from any duty.

7th. No Arabs shall be allowed to dwell in the vicinity of
the fields, unless security be had from them that they pay

376 APPENDIX.

for any damage done to the soil or crops. (The Arabs are
accustomed to turn their cattle loose upon the cultivated
land, whereby the seed is destroyed.)

8th. All the foregoing conditions must be written in Arabic
or Turkish, and sealed with the seal of Mohammed Ali, and
copies delivered to the cultivators, so that by exhibiting such
documents they may protect themselves from loss in times of
peril.

9th. A sum of twenty-five piastres shall be paid annually
for each vineyard, and for each garden fifty piastres, for
which Sir Moses would hold possession of them in perpetuity.
(The rent would not be excessive if more than that should be
paid ; but any payment must be subject to the foregoing
conditions.)

The division of the profits arising from the arrangements
in question should be divided in the manner presently stated.
It is incumbent on me to entreat, a thousand times, pardon
from Sir Moses for the liberty I have taken in making this
proposal ; and when I consider what affability and kindness
we have witnessed in Sir Moses, and that in this matter I
seek to preserve this holy spot from desolation, I trust that I
shall be fully pardoned.

One-third of the gross profits must be devoted to the pay-
ment of the taxes ; the remaining two-thirds must be dis-
tributed thus : one-third to the Israelites who undertake the
work, the second third to the Israelitish servants employed
therein, and to pay 5 per cent, interest to the parties who
advanced the money for the execution of this scheme ; and
the remaining third to those who devote themselves to the
study of the law.

I have given my information in as brief a manner as I
could, for I did not like to dwell on the subject at length,
because other people- might say enviously, " We could have
set forth those matters as well as he." For this reason I
have also withheld any information respecting several minor
topics.

APPENDIX. 377

These are the words of one who has faith in the
Almighty.

JOSEPH BEN SHIMEON ASHKENAZI.

REPORT OF SIGNOR FINZI,

The British Agent at Acre.

THE HOLY LAND IN THE ENVIEONS OP ZAPED.

The undermentioned localities are not very productive : —
G-ermek, Miroon, Sammui, Safsaf , Tetaba, Kadita, Gisg, Caffr
Berai'm, Ras el Akhmar, Ein Zetoon, Biria, Daria Takhte,
and Daria Foka.

In the vicinity of these villages a small quantity of white
grain and peas only can be sown. A fadan consists of two
oxen, to which is attached one labourer, who takes the
fourth part of the produce, one hundred piastres, and the
oil. Foreigners pay two hundred, or two hundred and fifty
piastres for each fadan during the year.

The district of Jakook and Abusciuscia have some good
land. In Abusciuscia may be sown rice, yellow grain, sumson,
and every kind of herb desirable for use, because the ground
is well watered. The available land there may be computed
by about one hundred fadans. The major part of the popu-
lation there consists of Arabs, and they pay in taxes only
eighteen thousand piastres per annum, and one cantar of
butter.

The undermentioned villages are in the environs of
Tabaria— El Megdel, Tabariade, and Hattin. These places

378 APPENDIX.

have good land, the produce of which is equal to that of the
terrain of Acre, except in regard to cotton and sumson. El
Megdel produces rice. A foreigner undertaking the cultiva-
tion of any land here has to pay three hundred piastres for
each fadan. During the summer the oxen have not much
work to do. The inhabitants of these places are chiefly
Moslemin, with a few Christians intermingled.

The lands belonging to the villages mentioned in the
following are fruitful, and their cultivation is vested in the
Moodir of Acre.

Menscia, situated ten minutes' distance from Acre, on a
large plain ; it employs eighty fadans, each consisting of
three oxen, two of which work together, being alternately
relieved every two hours by the third. The soil produces, in
the winter, wheat, barley, beans, lentils, and peas ; and in the
summer, cotton, sodi, sumson, white dura, or grain, cucum-
bers, popy, and cucumbers of other kinds called cetriuolo, and
also various kinds of herbs. The persons from whom the
ground is hired are Ibrahim Agha and Tatar Agasi. They
exact from the tenants, the labouring peasant having to
furnish a third part of the produce, but nothing more. The
purchase of seed, and the hiring of fadans, for the first year
would cost from two thousand to five thousand piastres.

The following villages are situate at from one to three
hours' distance from Acre : Kaffr Joosif, Damoon, Sciab,
Cabool, Schef amar, Megdel, El Shiams. The product of these
localities is similar to that of Menscia. A foreign cultivator
has to pay rent at the rate of three hundred piastres per fadan.
The population is composed of Moslemin, Christians, and
Druses ; but at Kaffr Joosif and Shefamar, there are a few
Israelites. The contributions of these villages to the govern-
ment revenue are in wheat, barley, and money, as was the
custom formerly. They must also comply with any demand
made by government for camels, horses, &c. Such additional
contributions are supplied from the residue of the value of the

APPENDIX. 379

produce, and are borne equitably by the inhabitants, divided
by the fadan. The chief of the village is entitled to two
fadans, clear of all expense, that of conveying the article
into his store-houses included.

Very fruitful years occasionally occur, when the ground
yields, in the winter, eight or ten times the ordinary quantity ;
and in summer the proportion of fifty to thirty. The peasant
that works on the land in Bouy is obliged to sow exactly what
the master directs him, and for his wages he takes one-fifth of
the produce, one hundred piastres, his maintenance, and two
rottles of oil, but nothing more. If the harvest be particularly
abundant the master must employ other men to assist him.
They receive three piastres per day, with bread and water.

Piastres.

Three oxen . . . . .900

Agricultural implements . . .60

Grain for seed — one grara* of barley, and half

a grara of beans .... 450

One kila of peas . . . . .60

Half a kila of lentils . . . .15

Cotton-seed, twenty mozinf . . .100

1,585

One mid of sumson-seed, and three mid of dura 20
Wages to the labourer or harrat . . 100

Food for the oxen, with seed for cotton or
beans . . . . . .80

A sack . . . . . .250

Which amount, added to the preceding,
makes ...... 2,035

* A grara contains twelve kilas ; one kila contains six mids ; one mid
four rottles, or eight okas ; one oka is equivalent to four hundred
drachms.

t A mozin contains ten okas.

380

APPENDIX.

AMOUNT REQUISITE FOB THE PURCHASE OF CATTLE.

Piastres.
. 600 to 800
. 500 to 600
, 200 to 300

A good camel for burthens, from
A mare ....
A good milk-cow .

A sheep for milk*
A she-goat

40 to
35 to

70
50

EXTENT OF THE VARIOUS PIECES OF LAND,|
Computed by the number of Fadans.

Fadans.
Menscia . . . . . .80

El Biruy . . . . . .45

KaffrJoosif 50

Damoon . . . . . .50

Scias . . . . . .80

Cabool and Tire . . . . .30

Shefmar . . . . . .120

Megdel 60

515
FINZI.

LETTER OF RABBI MORDEKHAY,

THE SON OF RABBI ABR. SHEL. SALMAN AT JERUSALEM.

4 Tatnooz, 5599.

It is my intention to acquaint Sir Moses with all that
occurred to me previously to, and up to the time of, my
becoming acquainted with the state of the Holy Land, and to

* The sheep brings forth young every five months.

t In all the districts here referred to tobacco may be grown.

APPENDIX. 381

show that even in its desolation it might still be flowing with
milk and honey,' for those who should engage in its cultiva-
tion. A long time ago my attention was directed to the con-
dition of our brethren in this region ; and then thought I,
" How much longer are they to receive bread to consume
which makes them blush ? " I here allude to the relief
afforded them by Israelites in exile, which may be considered
really the bread of poverty, inasmuch as some of it is con-
tributed by Israelites who are of the poorest. This aid is so
diminished by the expenses of its transmission to this spot,
that when it is received it is scarcely adequate to relieve
one fourth part of the wants to which it is applied.

I feel prompted to ask, Why should our condition be worse
than that of Christians in the Holy Land ? for they have
no inheritance in the soil, nor have they absolute possession
of any portion of it any more than we ; yet the Christians
here derive a sufficient sustenance from the fruitfulness of
the land, and the abundance of its seas. It has been my
chief endeavour, from earliest youth, to live by the labour of
my hands, and to help to sustain those who devote their lives
to the study of the holy law. I engaged in commercial
pursuits, intending to make a journey once a year into
Egypt : and on my return I sold the goods I had purchased
to shopkeepers, but, that I might duly attend to the law, I
refrained from appearing in any shop myself. On my second
return from Egypt, I was exposed to great danger, for my
preservation from which I have to give thanks to the
Almighty. But my father, seeing that we had not the means
requisite to extend our business, so as to derive from it
incomes which might support our families in comfort, and
especially as the necessaries of life and the articles of com-
merce were at that time very expensive, and the roads to
Egypt in a state of great peril, would not sanction my going
thither any more : two years have now elapsed since I gave
up that undertaking.

382 APPENDIX.

My present employment is connected with the reconstruc-
tion of the former ruin of Rabbi Yehooda Hakhasid, which I
deem a good action. I am mindful so to inspect the work
that nothing, not a half -penny, be lost by miscalculation in
the purchase of the building materials. I have refused com-
pensation for my labours, and have also declined taking
charge of any of the money for defraying the expenses, that
my conscience should be clear before God and before Israel,
trusting in the Almighty that I should obtain a maintenance
through some other channel. The director of the work, on
seeing my task thus performed with zealous rectitude, pre-
sented me with, as a reward, a seat in the great study, called
the " Consolation of Zion," and secured it by a written deed
to me and my heirs for ever. I supplicate the Almighty
incessantly that I may always find some mode of sustaining
myself in the Holy Land, and that no circumstance may
arise to draw me hence, hurting my feet on foreign ground,
and my heart by having to knock for succour at the doors of
the benevolent.

Last year I purchased some wheat from a certain person,
whom I will call Manzoor, in one of the villages here, and I
then observed that all the peasants of the village were as
slaves under that person, he taking nearly all that the land
produced. I inquired of the peasants how that person ac-
quired so powerful a position, and from them I had the in-
formation which follows. In that district there is much land
fit for cultivation ; and whoever has the means to erect a
house in the village, and to purchase about six oxen for the
plough, the cost of which is about two thousand five hundred
Turkish piastres, or fifty ducats ; who also appoints a person
to do the necessary manual labour, providing him with seed,
may obtain an income which, after the subjoined conditions
are complied with, may be deemed very profitable. These
are, to give a fifth part of the fruits to the pasha, as a tax on
the land, and a fifth part to the labourer. The cost of food

APPENDIX. 383

for so many oxen during- the period of four months in which
there is no pasture for them, is about three thousand piastres,
in seasons when things bear a fair price. The three fifths
remaining to him, subject to this last outlay, provide, as said
before, a very considerable income. Manzoor had built several
houses, and had conducted all the other requisite operations
on a large scale, having also constructed stalls for the cattle
and for sheep, and thus he had acquired great wealth.

Reflecting on these facts, I said to myself, " This agricul-
tural business in the Holy Land must be an advantageous
one." I wished to engage in it myself, but my own property
consisted of only three thousand piastres. It happened, how-
ever, that I met an Israelite belonging to our Portuguese
brethren, who sometimes transacted business with Manzoor.
and I proposed to him that we should purchase six oxen,
and place them under the care of Manzoor, having first
induced him to enter into partnership with us, and to add six
more oxen to them, and to appoint peasants to till the
ground. This he agreed to ; Manzoor also was agreeable to
the plan, we paying him six thousand piastres to cover the
expenses of the seed and the maintenance of the oxen. It
was further stipulated, that the produce should be divided
between us equally, and a correct statement furnished by
Manzoor after the harvest, of the expenditure, so that if any
portion of the six thousand piastres remained it should be
rendered back to us. He had the charge of all my available
property, and thus I became his partner.

When the season arrived for reaping the corn, I went to
the village, and remained in the neighbourhood several days,
anxious to see that the work was properly executed. Some
of the inhabitants, remarking my attention to the business,
said to me, " Why do you put yourself to so much trouble
and expense in watching here so constantly, exposed to the
heat of the day and the extreme cold of the night, when all
the land you have in cultivation is only half a f adan ? you

384 APPENDIX.

ought to have taken up two f adans at the least (consisting of
twelve oxen), and have furnished money for the necessary
expenses of such a quantity. In that case, this undertaking
would have sufficed for the full maintenance of you and your
family, and would have been worth the attention which you
now show." My answer to these observations was, that what
I was now doing was only an experiment ; but that the
ensuing year I would, with G-od's leave, act upon their
advice.

After this short conversation I went to Manzoor, and
desired him, on behalf of my partner as well as myself, to
furnish me with an account of the expenses of our specula-
tion. He told me he would do so when the harvest was
over, " and then," added he. " I will divide the oxen also, for
I do not like partnership." His reason for wishing to dis-
solve our contract was a disinclination to have any of his
proceedings overlooked in the manner in which I had been
employing myself : indeed, he wished to do everything in his
own way. From this I concluded he must have heard of the
conversation between me and the people just referred to
respecting my future agricultural operations. He was an
avaricious man, and it seemed that he could not endure to
see another derive any benefit from the soil. I certainly
felt much chagrined, and I reminded him that the sustenance
of every human creature depended on the will of the Al-
mighty.

Then was I moved to pour forth my troubled spirit to the
eternal God of the world. " 0 Lord ! " I ejaculated, " this
man is rich in cattle, in sheep, and in asses ; he has built
himself many houses, which are fair to see, and I, thy poor
servant, whose all, a mere trifle, was embarked in this matter,
I. trusting in thy beneficence for success, am now envied by
the man who would debar me from the recompense to which
industry is justly entitled. Glorify thy name, 0 Lord, for the
snke of thy servants by whom it is glorified ; succour me in

APPENDIX. 385

this strait, 0 Lord, that I may not be dependent on the
favour of this envious man."

Before I departed from the village, it so happened one
day that I met a peasant belonging to another village, named
Gezaze, who told me that the land around that place was of
a much better quality than the fields to which my present
venture related. This peasant, having married a woman of
this village who was reluctant to quit her family, was in
some sort compelled to dwell here ; but he suggested to me
that I should send some oxen to Gezaze, and occupy some
land there as soon as the present harvest should be
over.

When I was about to return to Jerusalem, as my father
limited my stay till the last month of Sivan, in order that I
might not neglect the general prayers of the congregation
(and the necessity for attending to these devotions compelled
me to appoint another person to watch the harvest in my
stead, whose expenses, in addition to the others, nearly
swallowed up all my profits), there came a messenger from
my father, to inform me that Sir Moses had delighted him
with his benign consideration, in seeking to benefit the
country by the very means which had lately so much en-
grossed my attention. At this intelligence I fervently gave
praise to the Almighty for His merciful interposition in our
behalf at so important a crisis. I saw, by the tenour of my
father's letter, that it was your wish, Sir, to establish the
prosperity of our holy institutions by the occupation of the
land, to be effected by our cultivating it, and that I should
ascertain what villages were most suitable for the abode of
those of our brethren who might undertake to labour on the
soil. Upon this, I at first thought of the villages bordering
on the Jordan. Here, however, though the land is very
good, agricultural pursuits are attended with much hazard,
for in the vicinity of the Jordan there are many Arabs who
support themselves chiefly by plunder ; and to such an extent
C C

386 APPENDIX.

are their depredations carried on, that the Moslemin are
afraid to approach them. The villages suitable in the plain
near G-haze and Ramie I knew to be in a very wretched
condition, for as there are no building materials close at
hand, stones and wood have to be brought from a considerable
distance ; in lieu of wood for fuel, indeed, the villagers are
often obliged to burn the excrement of cattle to dress their
food ; consequently there could be no places in which any
Israelites could comfortably dwell. While my thoughts were
thus roving, the suggestion of the peasant recurred to me,
and though it was night when I received the letter, I went
forth at once into the village in which my fadans were lodged,
and inquired of the man what were the dimensions and
precise advantages of the village of G-ezaze.

He assured me that its advantages were numerous, and
that few villages beside had so many. He further suggested
that I should go thither in person, in order that I might be
fully satisfied ; I thought it well to do so. It is situated
seven hours' distance from Jerusalem, and three from Ramie.
I found it had not been misrepresented. In former years it
must have been populous, for I saw the ruins of very ex-
tensive buildings. It has three wells, supplied by living
springs, just as those are in the neighbourhood of Jaffa ; and,
contiguous to these wells, gardens and plantation-grounds
could be laid out, and, in process of time, rendered as beau-
tiful as those on the road leading to Jaffa. The lands of
this village are bounded by two rivulets. The course of one
stream might be diverted into a valley, which, if the project
should be sanctioned by Sir Moses, might be converted into
an immense reservoir, in which fish (first brought from the
sea, which approaches to within five hours' distance of the
spot) might be bred with great abundance. There are rem-
nants of a water-mill on the banks of the other stream, built
and worked, probably, many ages past. The grounds per-
taining to the village are extensive, and five hundred oxen

APPENDIX. 387

could be fully employed in the ploughing of that part suited
for grain, which may be more easily sown than in that place
of which I have recently spoken as being the scene of my
first experiment. There is also good pasture for sheep and
cattle, and the young of the sheep and cattle that I saw
were in excellent condition. According as the choice of the
occupant might dictate, vines and olive-trees could be suc-
cessfully reared in this spot, which, in addition to its other
good qualities, abounds with , herbs on which bees thrive,
and the bees there are to be seen in numerous and heavy
swarms, a circumstance very unusual near other localities.

I was informed by some of the inhabitants, that anciently
there were vineyards here, equal in their produce to those at
Jerusalem, but that the lax administration of the laws by the
government had permitted robbers to interrupt the labours
of the husbandman so grievously as at length to cause the
land to be left almost desolate. But they have already begun
to cultivate the vine and the olive ; I personally saw some
samples of a very good quality.

Not far from G-ezaze there are some rocky eminences, from
which stone and chalk for building may be obtained for the
construction of dwelling-houses, such as those of the towns ;
there is also a forest, from which timber for building and
domestic uses may be obtained in abundance. The houses
forming this village are built like those of Zafed.

I made inquiries concerning the proprietorship of the
houses, and the fields and arable ground, in the course of which
I spoke to the sheikhs of the village. The sheikhs told me
that they had seen the place when it was nothing but a ruin,
about thirty years ago. They themselves had rendered it
habitable as I now saw it. The property of the fields is vested
in the pasha, who takes as rent a fifth part of their produce.
The sheikhs occupy as much land as require five f adans, and
from this they derive their support ; they have not to render
any portion of the produce to the pasha ; this exemption is

cc 2

388 APPENDIX.

made on account of their exertions for the improvement of
the village. Sheikh Sai'd farmed the pasha's fifth for the
annual sum of fifteen thousand Turkish piastres, and one
hundred khabias of barley.* The inhabitants have to pay a
tax of thirty-five piastres for every male child above the
age of fifteen years; this is in their language called the
Nemry. The village contains about sixty-five men, some of
whom are old and too feeble to work.

Now, if Sir Moses should deem it proper to bring all the
land of Grezaze into cultivation, one hundred f adans would be
requisite ; and as each f adan usually requires the attendance
of one man, consequently there would be employment for a
hundred men. At present there are but thirty fadans in
use ; ten of these were given by the Turks to the people of
some town. It is essentially necessary, in making any arrange-
ment for the occupation of the land, to procure a firman
from the Sultan, and one also from the Viceroy of Egypt, to
the effect that no man belonging to the village, or in the
employ of Sir Moses, be forced into the military service.
When the time approaches in which the annual con-
scription is accomplished, the inhabitants leave the village
through fear, and thus the cultivation is quite neglected,
and thieves find no hindrance in committing their misdeeds
at night.

I was told by the present sheikhs, that while the village
was under, the direction of Sheikh Said, he made such
arrangements as protected the inhabitants from the military
impressment. Unfortunately for Sai'd, this year something
irregular was discovered in the management of his office, and
he has been removed to await the pasha's judgment for his
offence ; consequently he has no further controul here, and the
villages have again been subjected to the conscription. The
sheikhs gave to understand that they wished for protection
from this liability, and that if Sir Moses could guarantee the

• A ihabia contains sixteen roobas ; a rooba contains two rottles.

APPENDIX. 389

people exemption from enlistment, they would entirely devote
themselves to his service, with everything they possessed.

I have now to observe to Sir Moses that the Shemita. or
year of release, is near, the year 5600; therefore, if Sir
Moses wishes to purchase the land entirely from the govern-
ment, we, the Israelites, should not be permitted to cultivate
all the fields, not even through the medium of other people ;
but if Sir Moses should only undertake to rent a certain
portion of the land by paying one fifth of its produce to the
pasha, by which arrangement it would still be the property of
its former possessors, then we, as well as anyone else, should
be allowed to do with it as we might choose. Our best plan
would be to place our oxen under the care of the sheikh of
the village, who ostensibly would engage peasantry for the
manual labour. One fifth of the whole produce would be
first set apart for the pasha, another fifth would be deducted
for the labourer's recompense, and the other three fifths
would be ours, subject to a small further deduction to com-
pensate the sheikh for any trouble he might have taken in
the transaction. Should Sir Moses not entertain the same
view of the affair, I am apprehensive that no other efficient
plan could be carried out.

The custom of the country is to plough the ground in the
month of Nisan, and plant those seeds which yield their
fruit in the summer, like poppy, from which oil is made, and
doora, or Indian-corn. The harvest of these fruits is in the
months of Ab and Elul. In the winter season the soil from
which these articles are raised is again ploughed, for the
reception of wheat, barley, and various kinds of lentils,
which grow during the winter. These ripen in the month
of lyar. Ground so used is termed in Arabic krdb. Fields in
which nothing but wheat and similar grain is raised, and
ploughed and sown in the month of Nisan, would become
comparatively barren, for they would be greatly deteriorated
by the thorns and weeds which would thus be suffered to take

390 APPENDIX

root, if they should not be ploughed in the month of Nisaii
now approaching, which is the year of release, and we shall
not have the krab-fields (whose fruits are blessed) the fol-
lowing year. When the year of Shemita is over, Sir Moses
might purchase the village if he should incline so to do, and
it could be named, in allusion to himself, " Kef ar Moshe ; "
the court, or area of those buildings he might erect could be
called, in reference to Lady Montefiore, " Khazer Yehoodit."
The respect we owe to her claims from us some such monu-
ment to preserve her for ever in our minds. May she be
blessed with all the blessings her virtues merit ! If my sug-
gestion in this matter were fulfilled, your names would be
held up to the veneration of the Israelites here through all
time, and would exist for good and blessed purposes ; and
thus would be accomplished that passage in the Scriptures,
which says, " I shall give them a hand (a take-hold) within my
house and my walls, which is better than sons and daughters."
However, if, with G-od's favour, we reach other Shemitot,
then we shall do the Mizwah of Shemita according to our
holy law, and the Almighty will bestow his blessings on us ;
as it is written, " I shall order my blessings, and they will
produce for the year," &c.

I have to acquaint Sir Moses with one other important
fact. The present year is a favourable one. The pasha has
not yet taken possession of his fifth, because the corn is still
in the gleans ; and if Sir Moses were to contract with the
pasha for his share, as Sheikh Sai'd did, it would furnish
bread sufficient for all our congregation here, not a child
excepted. I have been told by some of the people here that
any one contracting for the pasha's share, might by it realise
one thousand ducats profit ; and this I am assured is not an
exaggeration of the case, as many merchants have been en-
deavouring to make terms with the pasha. Therefore it is
advisable to commence the work with the least possible
delay, whatever impediments there may be ; thus will be

APPENDIX. 391

fulfilled the passage in Scripture, "Thy beginning will be
with trouble, but thy end will be with great comfort."

Sir Moses, I do not forget that I am still young in years,
and that you have passed through many, and have had much
experience. It would have been natural for me to have been
diffident of disclosing my opinion on these matters to you ;
but I conceived it was by the Almighty's ordinance that I
had employed myself in such, and that it was still his decree
that I should make the investigation I have done to supply
you with such information as you sought for. I have done
my best to procure an accurate estimate of the expenses
for the first year, that the basis of an establishment
might be laid in that village, from which all might derive
a comfortable maintenance, as from a bank. This asser-
tion will be more fully borne out by the account hereto
annexed.

When, after leaving Gezaze, I arrived at Jerusalem, I was
made acquainted with the sentiments of our brethren there.
Some asked if it were possible that children of Israel could
reside in the villages ; " for," said they, "can a man dwell
in the same cave with a serpent 1 " * Others wished to be
informed if it were possible that Israelites could engage in
agriculture.f And one party said, " Even if the best accom-
modation should be offered to us, we would not break up
from our homes at Jerusalem."J I replied to them, that I

* This expression alludes to the Arabs, who always show much
animosity to the Israelites, and who form the major portion of the
inhabitants of the villages.

t The observation respecting the impracticability of agriculture to
them was on account of the monopoly enjoyed for so many years by
people of other faiths in the East, and who doubtless would throw all
the Impediments they could in the way of Israelites.

t Most of the Jews at present in Jerusalem have gone thither for
safety. Having been exposed to great danger and many annoyances in
the places where they dwelt before, they had been at considerable
trouble to convey their effects to this asylum, and to form the establish-

392 APPENDIX.

had seen the land proposed for their occupation with my own
eyes : " and," said I, " it is a fertile land, a land, in the lan-
guage of the Scripture, really flowing with milk and honey ;
and, if the impulse to occupy it comes from the Almighty,
let us go up, and we shall surely prosper, and every one of
us will be settled in peace, as the following particulars will
verify."

In the first place, we shall do well to choose from among
our own congregation ten righteous, G-od-fearing men, who
are well acquainted with the Arabic tongue. The duties of
these should be to superintend the general disposal of the
land, a subject that demands considerable attention, as I
myself can testify from what I witnessed in the village
belonging to Manzoor ; and to appoint proper hours for
studying the law, especially those parts of it which relate to
this region, the land of our forefathers ; and they, and their
families shall dwell in the village. These persons shall have,
in payment for their services, a tenth part of every benefit
derived from the undertaking. They shall have wherewith
to maintain a housekeeper, and it shall be ordered, that if one
should become unable to perform his duties, his son, if he
have one, or son-in-law, shall take his place. All the other
housekeepers shall be on the same footing with the other
members of the community, and it shall further be stipulated
that the community shall have power to expel any one guilty
of misconduct from the village, and to place another in his
stead.

Secondly. To these ten persons shall be attached one,
appointed by the favour of our benefactor, Sir Moses, whose
office shall be to keep the books correctly, in which the
receipts and disbursements of the business shall be carefully

ment by which they secure what degree of comfort they have. A sudden
idea of suffering a state of things similar to what they formerly had to
complain of, in the event of their removing again into the open country,
very probably dictated this declaration.

APPENDIX. 893

entered. Moreover, three directors shall be appointed to
dwell in Jerusalem, in whom shall be vested the distribution
of the revenues of this village to the members of our con-
gregation, for the maintenance of their households. There
shall be appointed a treasurer, to whom all the proceeds on
the undertaking shall be duly forwarded ; and two auditors
shall have control over his accounts. Another person shall
be appointed, at the discretion of Sir Moses, to arrange the
accounts between these and the directors, to whom the chief
superintendent of the labourers in the village shall be
responsible.

Thirdly. Every scholar shall devote a certain portion of
each day to his studies, and shall join in the holy worship in
the house for study, especially that called " the Consolation
of Zion ; " and shall be in attendance each night in the house
of meditation. Every day, after the usual recital of the
forms of divine worship, prayer shall be read for the welfare
of Sir Moses, and of his virtuous and beneficent lady. A lec-
turer shall be appointed for the instruction of those who are
not of the degree of scholars, and he shall read to them
every day a certain portion of the law, to be regulated by the
capacity of their intellects ; and his task shall be performed
in the morning immediately after the conclusion of the usual
service, and in the evening between the recital of the Minkha
and Marib prayers. In the middle of the day such persons
are employed in the business of the representatives of our
congregation, according to what orders are on hand from
their president. From this body four parties of men shall be
taken to form watches over the effects of the community;
each watch shall do duty for one month at the time, the four
taking the duty in rotation ; and the other three, while not
thus engaged, shall assist in any work requisite to be done,
as the work will be very onerous in proportion to the numbers
to perform it. The entire produce of the establishment shall
be sent to, and placed in the charge of, the chief superin-

394 APPENDIX.

tendent in town, that it may be equitably divided, under the
sanction of the leaders, amongst all the congregation accord-
ing to the wants of each individual, or each household. The
three watches not on watching duty shall be at the service
of the directors, to bear any messages or parcels to any one
to whom they may have occasion to send ; in fine, whatever
work it is necessary to do for the benefit of the community
it shall be incumbent on them to execute to the best of their
ability, so that none of the students be improperly diverted
from their studies.

Unfortunately, there are many widows. Some of them
may be capable of rendering some assistance to the commu-
nity, and to contribute to the comfort of the students. They
shall also be divided into separate bodies, and in rotation go
forth to the pasture-land and milk the cows and goats, and
do anything else in connection with such business of which
they may be capable. The orphans shall be placed under
good guardianship, and their natural capacities properly
attended to ; they shall be distributed amongst the house-
keepers, so that they shall be reckoned as belonging to the
various households.

All regulations enumerated in the preceding paragraphs it
shall be the especial care of the seven most eminent Israelites
in the city or town to carry into effect, so that every member
of the community may dwell in peace in his appointed situa-
tion.

It is the earnest request of our congregation that the names
delivered to Sir Moses, those in the list of persons who were
included in this project, be written by Sir Moses in a book, so
that the village described, and its appurtenances, may remain
in the possession of themselves and their offspring till the
great day of our redemption, and that no foreigner may be
allowed to meddle with our affairs, unless he conform
implicitly to the foregoing regulations.

I wish Sir Moses to understand that the business of plough-

APPENDIX. 395

ing and sowing cannot be performed by Israelites exclusively,
because much of it requires to be done by persons well skilled
in such ; even the people of the village are not alike in their
abilities for agriculture. But, setting apart the more difficult
business of the agriculturist, it is customary to add to every
two men a shepherd, to assist them in various minor affairs ;
and in the harvest season five labourers are required to every
f adan, to reap and tie up the corn in sheaves, and to convey
it to the threshing-floor. It is usual to pay these labourers
in gleans, and they have, in addition to their pay, also the
privilege of gleaning the fields after the owner's portion has
been taken away, which emolument is to them very consider-
able. All such labour as I have here described Israelites may
perform as well as any others.

When these regulations had been proposed to our brethren
at Jerusalem, and distinctly explained, they with one voice
prayed to the Almighty, that they might meet the approba-
tion of Sir Moses, and that he might ever prosper. Such of
the learned as are competent to engage in the project at once
gave it their consent to remove into the village and dwell
there. And I myself respectfully request to be appointed to
some office there, so that I might make it my chief place of
abode. I should like to have the inspection of the measures
taken for the accomplishment of this scheme, especially if
there were anything to be negotiated with the governor,
in which case I could be of great service, as, I think, having
already more insight into agricultural pursuits than most
of my brethren, and being also interpreter to the congre-
gation in the Holy City. I trust the Almighty would con-
tinue so endow me with vigour to secure success in such
matters, because, though as one of the learned I might have
derived my support from the same source as the others, I
sought, and the Almighty blessed my endeavours, to main-
tain myself by the labour of my own hands. I prefer sitting
on the threshold, though even in a village, especially as the

396 APPENDIX.

end I strive for is a good one in the sight of the Lord — the
restoration of the land of our forefathers.

The foregoing are the sentiments of the congregation, ar-
ranged by the undersigned, who hopes for the Almighty's
succour, through the instrumentality of Sir Moses Monte-
fiore, whom may the Almighty ever preserve.

MORDEKHAY,

the son of Eabbi Abraham Shelomo Salman, the son-in-law
of the Rabbi Tobiah, head of the assembly, and director of
the congregation at Jerusalem, at the epoch of the first
arrival of Sir Moses in the Holy City.

A TABLE OF THE EXPENSES ATTENDING THE PROPER

ESTABLISHMENT OP THE VILLAGE.

Rials.
100 fadans (each fadan in this part consisting of six

oxen, valued at 100 rials) 10,000

100 asses (an ass will be required to each fadan for

the carriage of the agricultural instruments) . . 800
Instruments for tilling and threshing .... 200
Four months' provender for the oxen where there is

no pasture (necessary in the first year) . . . 2,500

Stalls for cattle and sheep 150

The purchase of 200 cows, for breeding and for giving

milk (all these may find sufficient pasture) . . 2,000
600 sheep and goats, at 7 rials a-piece .... 4,200
Dwelling-places for the labourers . . . .100
Houses, provided with an area for the Israelites that

would reside there to superintend the labourers,

and other matters connected with the undertaking . 1,000
For repairing the three wells in the village . . 300
Three horses for the convenience of those having to

superintend places 150

Carried forward . . . .20,800

APPENDIX. 397

Rials.
Brought forward .... 20,800

Fifty camels, for carrying into the storehouses the
produce of the land during the harvest (these,
during the other portion of the year might be pro-
fitably employed in the removal of various sorts of
goods from place to place) 2,000

Total of rials 22,800

The expenses enumerated in the foregoing table are chiefly
required for the first year only. In the ensuing years the
whole of them might be defrayed out of the net proceeds
of the business.

After setting apart the pasha's due, the labourers' Rials,
share, and that required for the next year's seed, the
wheat, 5,000 khabias from each f adan, would realise 10,000
(In any one year, however, in which the land might
not be so productive as it usually is, that which is
obtained from it would command a price higher than
ordinary, so that the profits would not greatly vary.)
Barley, subject to the same deductions just mentioned.

20 khabias from each f adan, would realise . . 2,500
Beans and lentils, 400 khabias from each fadan . . 800
The foregoing are the fruits of what would have been

planted and sown in the winter season.
The fruits arising of the labours in the summer season

would be as follows : —

Doora, 50 khabias from each fadan .... 6,000
Poppy for oil, 20 khabias from each fadan . . . 5,000

Total of rials 24,300

The 600 goats, also, would yield milk sufficient for the
making of 3,000 rottles of cheese. And the cows would
yield a considerable quantity of milk ; of this milk the pea-
sants make butter, and prepare a kind of food they call
xhannrefke. They likewise make para cheese from it to sell
in the towns.

398 APPENDIX.

The object we should chiefly seek to obtain, is the Al-
mighty's blessing on our labours, and the land would be fruit-
ful under our hands.

I think it not amiss to observe again, that the hire of the
camels, when not employed on the grounds, would realise a
considerable profit, though I cannot specify its various items.
The wood with which the country adjoining abounds, would
furnish an abundance of fuel, much of which could be con-
veyed by the camels for the use of all our congregation; and
from the cattle and sheep a sufficiency of fresh meat might
be obtained for the same. What income would be derivable
from the sale of sheep and cattle as they yearly multiplied
their species cannot be accurately computed ; much would
depend on G-od's blessing. The wells so fertilise ground for
gardens, that vegetables sufficient for the consumption of all
our congregation could easily be raised both in summer and
winter. It is, above all, worthy of notice in this calculation,
that half the wheat we could raise would supply bread for
five hundred souls, who would in no shape lack the other
necessaries and most of the reasonable luxuries of life ; which
would enable us to sit peaceably and meditate on the holy
law, and duly worship the Almighty.

MORDEKHAY.

ADDRESS OF RABBI ARYEH,

THE SON OF RABBI YERAKHMIEL.

Jerusalem, 2nd Tamooz, 5599.

To the joy of our heart and the light of our eyes.

We heard it with our own ears, from his own mouth.

that the chief design of our dignified benefactor in visiting

this land was to show a paternal compassion to his brethren.

the Israelites who dwell in the vineyard, which is by right

APPENDIX. 399

our inheritance from the Almighty Lord of Hosts, by taking
measures to supersede the necessity for being sustained by the
uncertain stream of gifts flowing to us from Europe, and
which are only the gifts of men ; and to enable everyone to
sit under his own fig-tree, as in former days. We then in-
voked on his head the blessings of Zion, the source of all
blessings, for there the Almighty ordained that blessings
should ever dwell. It is always proper to give thanks to the
Lord, and therefore do I embrace this opportunity for ren-
dering to Him my gratitude, forasmuch as He has shown to
me many mercies.

Twenty-four years have I now been wandering about on
the great field of the world, twelve of which have, in the
city of Jerusalem, been devoted to a holy service, inasmuch
as I have borne the burthen of a pure congregation in serving
the Polish and German congregation, whose lives I pray God
to preserve. The roads and various places of importance in
this region are better known to me than to other people who
live a discursive life here, therefore I have thought fit to
communicate such information to Sir Moses as might enable
him to profit by embarking in agricultural pursuits. The
nature of the lands best adapted for his purpose I shall
presently explain ; and I have to solicit his indulgence for
occupying his attention by my statement too long; this I
doubt not he will readily accord me, as I am trying to fulfil
his own desire, and much is required to be said to furnish all
the intelligence necessary on this subject.

The first thing necessary to be done in "commencing opera-
tions will be to procure a firman from the pasha, securing the
people in those districts which your dignity might take in
charge, from impressment into the military service, and from
the payment of taxes. On account of your illustrious repu-
tation and influence, the Viceroy of Egypt would concede
exemption from the military service, and might also forego
his claim to one-fifth of the produce of the soil, as a portion

400 APPENDIX.

of the State revenue ; this fifth is exacted from wheat, barley
and also a kind of corn, called in Arabic doora. Doora-bread
is chiefly used by the peasantry ; and if Sir Moses should be
so successful as to procure for us such an exemption, the
benefit which would accrue therefrom would be beyond any-
thing of which words can convey an idea.

It is essential to acquaint Sir Moses that much of the agri-
cultural work could not be achieved by Israelites alone, for
two reasons ; the first, the observance of the holy sabbath
would interfere with the customs of those concerned in the
business who might be of another faith ; the second, the
Israelites, as they now are, possess not strength equal to
every task in connection with ploughing and sowing. The
mode in which agricultural affairs are conducted by the
inhabitants of this district I will now describe, and my
information shall be arranged in sections.

In the first place, the Pasha of Egypt owns all the land of
the district, and he takes one-fifth of the produce, as before
stated. The quantity of land tilled is computed by the f adan
(a fadan here consisting of six oxen). There are many
expenses involved in cultivation ; first, the purchase of the
oxen, the price of wheat, and other kinds of grain for seed,
provender for the cattle, as in this country there is no pasture
except during three months in the year, and then the heat is
so intense that all the herbage is soon parched up. In the
winter the cattle are fed with straw, and grains of cotton-
seed. These expenses can in nowise be varied, except by
allowing the labourer as a recompense, instead of wages in
money, a certain portion of the produce, which arrangement
generally induces him to render his services faithfully. His
share of the business is well known to be a difficult one.
However, if Sir Moses should secure from the pasha an
immunity fr'om all the taxes specified herein, many of our
brethren would make strenuous exertions, and the labourers
probably would work for less.

APPENDIX. 401

Secondly, it will be most important to form a contract
with the pasha of that nature termed booyooruldi, specifying
the number of years we are to hold the land ; because the
country may possibly pass under another's control. Pre-
viously to the present pasha's assuming the government, we
lived in a very precarious manner, and even in our bed-
rooms our lives were not safe, because, as it is well known,
the children of Edom are savages. I therefore trust that
Sir Moses will endeavour to effect an arrangement to which
the governors shall give their express sanction, and espe-
cially the Sultan, so that it may be permanent, and our abode
in the land of life undisturbed.

Thirdly, instructions should be given by the pasha
relative to our affairs to the Mooselim of Jerusalem and of
Ramie, because the villages adapted for our purposes border
on both places, so that when we should require any soldiers
for the protection of our property, they might be obtained
from either place without difficulty. Three soldiers in each
village would be force sufficient ; and if we were free from the
military service altogether, we should require no such pro-
tection at all, as the peasants in our employ would willingly
perform all the necessary duties of watching.

Fourthly, we ought to have the privilege of possessing
arms in the villages, for driving off beasts of prey, par-
ticularly as much of our property would consist of cattle
and sheep. It is well known that all the weapons formerly
possessed by the inhabitants have been taken away by the

Fifthly, a guarantee should be given us from the govern-
ment, that no soldiers be permitted to take any of our horses
or asses for the State service, and that our beasts of burthen,
when found in towns, should be liable to no such seizure.
Straw, wood, and coals belonging to us, should also be pro-
tected from similar appropriation.

Each f adan consists of six oxen ; the cost of six oxen would
D D

402 APPENDIX.

be about 2,000 piastres. An ox of the best quality would cost
500 piastres. On the ground of one fadan might be sown
'wheat, barley, doora, beans, lentils, and karselle (a kind of
grain eaten by camels), and in the lands of the villages which
I recommend, those near Ramie, a great deal of poppy might
be sown, which is an article of great utility in this country,
and very profitable to trade in, as oil, both for the dressing of
food and for burning, is extracted from it ; and in the same
districts, cotton might be advantageously reared. The ex-
penses attending the working of one fadan, including various
sorts of seed, food for the cattle during the winter, and agri-
cultural tools, would amount to 3,000 piastres. This statement
is perfectly in accordance with the customs of the region, so
greatly celebrated in our holy law.

In the winter season they sow wheat, barley, beans, and
lentils. This deposit involves much expense, because for
wheat and barley a great deal of seed is required. The most
profitable crops are those arising from the deposit of seed in
the summer, as that is comparatively small. Doora and
cotton are sown in the summer, and these plants thrive from
the dew, which, in the absence of rain throughout the
summer, is indeed a blessing.

In ordinary years the produce of the ground of one fadan
is as follows :—

A khabia contains thirty rottles ; the measure of a rottle,
in the Holy City, is two okas and one rooba ; an oka contains
four hundred drachms. Ten khabias of wheat are sown to the
fadan, and their product is forty, and this quadruple product
may be affirmed of the other sorts of grain. The product of
some articles is five and six-fold ; but in one of the blessed
years the fruits of the agriculturist are ten and fifteen times
the quantity of his deposit. Every sixth year is generally
one of such abundance, by the Almighty's blessing. The
present year dates the sixth from the last remarkably
abundant year, and I have been assured, by a man of honest

APPENDIX. 4-03

character here in Jerusalem, who has been engaged in agri-
cultural pursuits these last five years, the produce of the
land this year promises to be fifteen-fold.

The following is a list of the villages which belong to
Jerusalem ; they are near to the town, and are in a pros-
perous condition — the blessing of God seems to be upon them.

Gebbel TOOT. — This at present engages twelve fadans ; but
eight more might be worked with advantage. The neigh-
bourhood abounds with fruit. It contributes ten thousand
piastres annually to the pasha's revenue.

Issabie. — This is situated half-a-mile from the above, and,
like that, has vineyards and other delightful appendages.
Twelve fadans are worked here, and it contributes twelve
thousand piastres to the revenue.

Indte. — Another village situated at about two hours' dis-
tance from Jerusalem. A great quantity of stone is obtained
from this place for the chief buildings at Jerusalem. It con-
tains many advantages. Twelve fadans are employed here,
and its contribution to the revenue is ten thousand piastres.

Sib.— Situated two hours' distance from Jerusalem. The
lands abound with vines and olives. Its fadans are twenty,
and the pasha derives from it twenty thousand piastres
annually.

Elimisre. — This stands at three hours' distance from Jeru-
salem, and abounds with olive-trees. It employs thirty
fadans, and pays thirty thousand piastres annually to the
revenue.

These villages, then, it appears, take up eighty-six fadans.

The cost of a f adan being two thousand piastres, and the
other expenses three thousand piastres certain (sometimes
the total amount may be six thousand piastres), we require
for the commencing of operations five thousand piastres per
fadan. Total, four hundred and thirty thousand piastres.

In the vicinity of Ramie is a beautiful plain, celebrated for
its pasture for sheep and cattle. It also produces cotton
D D 2

404- APPENDIX.

and poppy, but it has little timber ; nevertheless its ad-
vantages are numerous. Though a large plain, called in
Arabic Blades, there is no risk on it from Bedouin robbers, of
whom there are vast numbers in the country, who constantly
carry off corn as well as sheep. It is about six hours' distance
from Jerusalem.

The following is a list of the villages adjacent to Ramie.

Khoolda. — To this is attached forty fadans ; — it is now in
the occupation of an Israelite, and he is sowing the ground
of many fadans. He pays to the pasha the annual sum of
eleven thousand five hundred piastres, also fifty khabias of
wheat and doora. At this time the pasha prefers to money a
fifth part of the produce.

Gezaze. — This is near Khoolda ; it has sixteen fadans, and
pays to the pasha annually fifteen thousand five hundred
piastres, seventy-five khabias of wheat, with barley and
doora.

Sidoon, Ynane, Elmanzoor, AbusJioosJie . — These villages
could employ two hundred and twenty fadans and more ; and
they have good pasture- grounds, which have no equal in all
Palestine.

The places I have mentioned would yield food sufficient
for all the population of Jerusalem, and especially if the
produce of those be included which I stated as being near
Jerusalem. They are so situated in the middle of the
country as not to be exposed to much danger from marauders ;
but it still would be judicious to secure an order from the
pasha to the governors of Jerusalem and Ramie, to see that
we were not molested.

The season for ploughing here, in the vicinity of the Holy
City, begins in the month of Kislev. I have set my mind on
G-ebbel Toor as the spot for my operations, and, with God's
help, and the permission of Sir Moses, I will occupy that
ground. I intend to commence with another Portuguese,
who has already been engaged in the business five years. In

APPENDIX. 405

another month it will be time to provide straw and similar
things necessary for this purpose.

Sir Moses is aware that both myself and the scribes were
engaged an entire day in writing the lists.* I am now sitting
on the ground, not being provided with a table, writing on
my hand ; therefore my language may not be so correct as I
should address to Sir Moses ; and I have, on that account,
to solicit his kind indulgence. I have only endeavoured to
impart to his honour such knowledge on this subject as I, after
a careful inquiry, have obtained. I depend on our most worthy
friend, Dr. Loewe, for having my words arranged in the form
most fitting for Sir Moses to look at. They are the words of
one who writes in the gloom of night, and who has no proper
writing instrument. He is the faithful servant of those
who are servants of the Almighty, and he bows himself from
afar to the dignity and purity of heart of him who is our
benefactor.

Of him do I say, may the Almighty help him with the
blessings of peace, and send His angel to be his safeguard on
his way, to bring him to his home in peace. May the merits
of the Holy Land protect him for ever; and, in his days, may
Judah and Israel have the prosperity each to sit in his own
vineyard and under his own fig-tree. These are the words of
a faithful servant to him who truly worships the Almighty.

AEYEH,
THE SON OF RABBI YERAKHMIEL.

NOTK.— There are near Jaffa many pleasant gardens and plantations,
and there are wine-presses, by which much wine may be obtained. The
villages there are in good condition, and those who live there, not
Israelites, are healthy and athletic, having a nourishing sustenance,
derived from their engagement with the peasantry in agricultural
pursuits.

* The lists here referred to were those of the poor in Jerusalem of
various denominations, difference of religious faith not being observed,
to whom Sir Moses distributed a sum of money for their relief.

406 APPENDIX.

THE PORTUGUESE AND GERMAN CONGREGATION OF
JERUSALEM TO SIR MOSES MONTEPIORE.

Jerusalem, <ith of Tamooz, 5599.

With, many blessings and with heartfelt joy we greet Sir
Moses Montefiore, the beloved friend of his people, and who
is illustrious amongst nations. We pray the Almighty to
preserve him in peace, and to grant that his light may shine
brightly evermore. Amen.

O Lord, protect him for ever, let thy greatness rest over
him like a shield, and, in thy infinite grace, elevate his honour
so that the universe may know it, and grant that he may
behold with our joy the renovation of our Holy City; because
he walked in the paths of Zion, which now are desolate and
in mourning. Yes, fervently do we pray the Lord of Hosts to
bless him with the felicity of seeing the first kingdom return
to the daughter of Jerusalem. When that shall come to pass
then will Moses rejoice at his portion, the recompense of his
steps in entering the temple of the King. Then will be
resplendent his fame and merit. Thus blessed will be he who
fears the Almighty. The horn of his ancestors will be ex-
alted ; the horn of David will again be lifted up ; the holy
temple will stand in its splendour as it was wont, in the midst
of its proper nation. Amen, Amen.

Lo ! the voice of Jerusalem now resounds in wishing peace
to his dignity, forasmuch as words, pure as those which have
seven times passed the ordeal of purification, came from his
mouth, revealing to us that the Almighty had prompted his
noble heart to show compassion to his brethren dwelling in
those places of the Lord at Jerusalem (which are now ob-
scured), and to those who are dispersed throughout the Holy
Land. As a bird that leaves its own abode to mingle with its
kind, so did he quit for a period his birth-place, and brave

APPENDIX. 407

the toils of travel to ascend the mount where dwells the
Lord of Hosts, that he might behold with his own eyes
the poverty-stricken and oppressed of his people, who are
scattered through the towns of Judea and Galilee, where
existence is constantly in suspense, being sustained by bread
received from their brethren in foreign and distant lands.

When Sir Moses beheld our oppressed state, his sympathy
was excited, and he instantly proceeded to devise means to
raise pillars by which the house of Israel might support
itself ; by which they might have a sustenance of bread and
of water that would never raise a blush on their countenances,
never make dim the eye, or sick the heart with regret — such
regret as pure hearts must ever feel when they depend for life
on the industry of their brethren. He undertook to obtain
for them a secure hold in the land of our forefathers — that
which may be derived from ploughing, sowing, and reaping
with satisfaction, so that every one may repose in safety,
worshipping and studying the law under the shade of his own
vine and his own fig-tree, every one acting according to his
quality ; those designed for the Almighty's especial service
perpetuating the knowledge of the holy law, and the others
tilling the soil, which will yield the best fruits.

Oh, how greatly did we rejoice when we heard his ingenuous
and beneficent words, and we straightway invoked upon him
the blessings of Zion, the source of all blessing. How pleasant
and how soothing are all the deeds of Sir Moses, and still will
they continue such. With one accord we have adopted the
plan which Sir Moses has proposed : and now do we wait for
the Almighty's succour, through the instrumentality of Sir
Moses the faithful, and we exclaim, "When shall this
redemption begin 1 "

Such are our words, because we are anxious that the coming
season for ploughing and sowing should not pass away in vain.
Therefore do we presume to give some advice to Sir Moses on
this important subject, which we hope he will graciously re-

408 APPENDIX.

ceive. It is essential that he exert all his influence to obtain
from the ruler of Egypt a firman, giving full powers to Sir
Moses and his agents to commence the execution of this
scheme, in the mode already explained to Sir Moses in a letter
written by our friend, the faithful notary to the Polish and
German congregations, the learned and esteemed Rabbi
Aryeh Ashkenazi (whom may Gfod preserve). Should such
a firman be procured, all the potentates in Europe would
willingly support Sir Moses with their influence in such an
undertaking. Then Sir Moses should appoint inspectors to
watch the working of the project, till a proper establishment
were formed, and it should be our care to give them all the
information necessary for selecting fit persons for each kind of
labour, and fit places for operations, so that the endeavour for
the renovation of our country should not be fruitless. Our
instructions to the inspectors and directors of the work would
be particularly necessary at this period, because the ensuing
year is the seventh year, the shemita ; and they would learn
from us so to arrange their business as not to infringe the
ordinances of the seventh year, which is a very important
point.

With humility our eyes are now cast upward to heaven, to
the Lord our God, whose dwelling-place is Zion, that He may
stretch forth His all-powerful arm in aid of this pure design,
by which it may come to pass that those brethren of Sir
Moses who now live in Zion in poverty, may live in their
fatherland in peace and prosperity, and while earning their
bread with their own hands, may securely render their
worship to the Almighty.

When our united wishes shall have been accomplished,
then will Sir Moses and his brethren here raise this song of
thanksgiving and praise to the Almighty with an abundance
of joy :

" Blessed be the eternal Lord of Hosts, who failed not to
send a redeemer to his land, and succour, from the majesty of

APPENDIX. 409

his power, to the offspring of his righteous servants. On the
head of his people he has placed a helmet, and in his great
mercy has appointed his servant Moses to exalt the light of
his resplendent might, and to make it a wonder before all the
nations of the earth. By the blessing of the Almighty did
Moses obtain the accomplished, honoured, and most virtuous
Lady Yehoodit. May all the blessings of ladies in their tents
rest upon her.

" And now, Lord of Hosts, God of Israel, who alone dost
know the misery of our life, cast thine eye, we implore thee,
on the various habitations of us thy people, for the power of
helping ourselves is nearly bereft us. Strengthen, 0 Lord,
the hands of those princes who, by thy mercy, have given
to us their aid. Be to them, 0 Lord, as an impregnable rock
and a shelter, that thy nation may not again become the
prey of violence. From thy transcendant holiness in heaven
look down upon them ; bless their lot in this life with peace;
grant that their days in this life may be long, and fill their
houses with good things from that great store which thou
alone dost possess. Let the end of their greatness be happier
than the beginning, so that our friends may not be fatigued
and discouraged with the compassion shown to us. but be
incited with a holy desire to promote our welfare in future
time.

" Thou, 0 Lord dost know the righteousness of their hearts
and the worthy plans they cherish — strengthen them with
thy great mercies, and show to all men the good effects
which by righteousness are wrought. Yes, 0 Lord, open to
them the fountain of thy treasure ; pour upon them water
therefrom, until we be inspired with thy Holy Spirit, and
thou dost send to us the righteous and glorious Kedeemer
whom thou hast promised. Let the kingdom be restored
to the house which is now laid low, and may glory arise to
the house of Sir Moses Montefiore throughout the world. —
Amen, Amen."

410 APPENDIX.

Now, thou Moses, upon whom have descended the Al-
mighty's blessings, according to thy dignity, looking with
condescension upon others, wilt accept this tribute of our
respectful gratitude. That the music of our song may be
soothing to thine ears is our humble and fervent wish.

May the Almighty extend and elevate thy greatness ; and,
agreeably to the desire of thy noble soul, may the great
Redeemer come in thy time, and gather together in one fold
the scattered children of Israel. Thus fervently do thy ser-
vants pray, who are now waiting for thy gracious reply.

Signed by the chief and most distinguished leaders and
directors of the Portuguese and German congregations in
the Holy City (which may God restore).

JONAH MOSHE NABON.
JUDA NABON.
IZKHAK KOOBOO.
SHEMUEL MADJAK.
NATHAN NATA, the Son of

R. Mendel.
ARYEH, the Son of R. Ye-

rakhmiel.

YESHAYAH, the Son of
Isakhar Ber, &c. &c.

THE END.

Wertheimer, Lea and Co., Printers, Circus Place, London Wall.

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